New '83 owner

[loweamsel]

Hey everyone, just bought an '83 earlier today and I'm looking for some tips on what kinds of things to look for when I start going over it. I took a look at the two threads in the tech library but I still feel it can't hurt to ask. I'm planning on slowly restoring the bike over the next few years with a primary focus on getting her back on the road (she runs, just needs some tune-up work, carb rebuild etc.)in the next couple of months. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

-J

[Venturezach]

A few things I would check are:

 

fuse block- an upgraded blade style fuse block is available for the venture as the glass fuse holders tend to break down

 

stator- is the stator supplying the specified voltage? Also check the plug where the stator plugs into the harness as this is a common fail point(mine was actually sparking inside the connector)

 

starter clutch- the OEM style clutch is prone to cracking and slipping. Bit of a bear to get the rotor pulled off, but in my opinion it is best to do the stator and starter clutch at the same time so you don’t have to go back in when one or the other fails. Saves some work there and Dano has the best setup around for the starter clutch that has been dubbed bulletproof. I am running this and it works beautifully, no issues whatsoever and will never have to worry about it again.

 

2nd gear- there are articles on the 2nd gear issue that is easily found in a quick search. Some models have the issue and some do not. Not quite sure where the line is but hopefully the gurus will chime in with that info. The issue being that under load, 2nd gear will produce a slipping symptom.

 

These are some things I’ve dealt with which is why they’re on the top of my head. Hopefully this helps and if you ever have any questions or concerns please feel free to reach out, this is a great informative site with great people. Looking forward to following your restoration. Cheers!

[van avery]

Here is some good reading and information.

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?109965-Get-her-up-on-the-stand&highlight=footrest

I picked up an 83 a few years back. Due a compression check with some oil a lot of times the valve will need adjustment, and the diaphragms on the carbs may need replacement.

When you replace the valve cover gaskets get some for a gen II bike they are a bit easer to install and fit fine.

If it is slow turning over you will want a Gen II starter and clean the ground wire to motor connection ( front right corner of motor below battery) .

May need a newer TCI from ignitech@ignitech.cz its now a plug and play, original is mounted under battery upside down.

Wires from stator tend to leak oil on the left side.

I found "rapid fix" good for the plastic repairs, the two component type, not the UV stuff.

Welcome to the site and good luck with your new toy.

[loweamsel]

Thanks for the replies and the welcomes! A bit more info about the bike as it is: the previous owner swapped a few parts around so (I've been told) she currently has the carbs and front brakes off a gen II, and the anti-dive forks.

 

fuse block- an upgraded blade style fuse block is available for the venture as the glass fuse holders tend to break down

 

stator- is the stator supplying the specified voltage? Also check the plug where the stator plugs into the harness as this is a common fail point(mine was actually sparking inside the connector)

 

It supposedly has a new stator but a voltage test won't hurt, and I'll look in to the fuse box, previous owner may have already swapped it.

 

2nd gear- there are articles on the 2nd gear issue that is easily found in a quick search. Some models have the issue and some do not. Not quite sure where the line is but hopefully the gurus will chime in with that info. The issue being that under load, 2nd gear will produce a slipping symptom.

 

Sadly, I'm almost positive my bike falls into the group that this happens to. I found a few posts about this on here already and plan to begin stocking up parts for when it does happen.

 

May need a newer TCI from [...] its now a plug and play, original is mounted under battery upside down.

 

How would I know if this needs to be replaced? The bike seems to idle nice and smooth and runs very well over 5k, though it hangs up below about 3k RPM (Thing'll backfire like a gunshot if I hit the throttle too hard between 2k-3k) but I figured that was most likely gummed carbs/synchronization. Am I on the right track there or could that be TCI related?

 

Thanks again for all the information so far, it'll be a couple weeks before I get started on anything but I'll be sure to post my progress as things get done ^^

-J

[van avery]

Sound like your TCI is OK. Backfire is most likely carbs. You might just run a tank or two of gas with about 1/2 can of Seafoam and ride it like you stole it.

Make sure you use the correct type of oil for wet clutch, no friction fighters etc. otherwise clutch will start slipping under hard acceleration in 4 and 5 th gears.

[loweamsel]

Make sure you use the correct type of oil for wet clutch

 

I meant to ask about oil, too. What weight of oil is recommended for these bikes?

Searching around the net told me anything between 10w-30 and 20w-50. Any suggestions?

And thanks for the input on the TCI

-J

[van avery]

Here is a note on Rotella T4 15W-40 oil for diesel. I've use it for quite awhile . I get it a SAM's club. Lots of different opinions out there.

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?140886-OIL-CHANGE-(89VR)-Rotella-T4-15W-40-STUNNING-RESULTS!!!&highlight=rotella

[cowpuc]

I used (and still would) T4 15/40 for years around home in the cooler air and was good with it till I started on the much cheaper and even more important to me, way easier to find Walmart Super Tech oils that I could easily find while out CTFW = anywhere there was a Walmart = bingo = Super Tech + their tire/lube shop's drain pan + paper funnels + getting rid of the used oil while on the road = Tweeks/Tip and Puc the happy campers. Then Wally World stopped handling my favorite oil and I swapped out to Dollar General 20/50 diesel. GOOD STUFF (IMHO), especially for running in high desert region temps. I personally like to run the lower weight 15/40 in tempts below 80 degrees but once we get into summer tempts, I swear I can "feel" notchiness return in the shifting and the engine runs a little noisier. All my 1st Gens respond(ed) well to 20/50 above 80 degrees, got full high mileage out of them before retiring em, never had a top end apart (or bottom for that matter).

I always do/did swap out my oils when they turned dirty in the window as apposed to a regular schedule though. This usually meant somewhere between 25 and 3500 miles unless we had been running a lot of dirt,,, I actually did do a change once after only 1000 miles but that was due to a LOT of playing in the mountains of Utah on the single and two tracks..

Trooper, our new car, is the first vehicle we have owned that "spected" full synthetic. Been getting Troops oil at Menards, Quaker State 0-20 Full Syn is what the "book" actually recommends and ironically = Menards has it on sale after rebate (Tip and I are avid Rebate daters LOL) for 3 bucks a quart (good deal,, I have seen it elsewhere for 9 bucks). The book is 7500 miles between changes,,, I started out with Trooper at new @ 3500 miles - increased to 5000 back at 20k and kept noticing the oil was almost still "as new" (especially in body/viscosity) so have since gone full book to 7500 mile intervals.. This last oil change that was swapped in when we left for the Texas/New Mexico/Mexico border and then to the West Coast and then to the Northern U.S. Border was just under 8k miles and miles at a fair amount of triple digit desert ripping... Amazing oil!! Was almost as clean as the 5k was and absolutely NO CHANGE in body/viscosity = SHOCKING and very impressive.. Trooper is Dual Clutch trannied BUT - his clutches are dry clutches so I would DEFINITLY still be leary of using full syn in my bike.

[CaseyJ955]

+1 for Rotella T4 15-40. Both Venture and Vmax, and about anything else that doesn't call for synthetics.

[loweamsel]

Thanks everyone for your input, I grabbed a jug of T4 15w-40 from Walmart last night and I'll be changing the oil later. I took the paneling off earlier today to have a look and, well, its dirty to say the least. It still has the old style fuse box so I'll have to look in to replacing that eventually and it looks like the TCI has been relocated. I'm not sure exactly where its supposed to be but I can't imagine that it was screwed to the air box. (Correct me if I'm wrong) It does have a K&N air filter in it, so that's a plus, and all the sliders in the carbs appear to move freely. I'll post some pictures later once I get the oil change sorted and hopefully some of you can help me identify what's what as far as wiring is concerned. Other things of note: the previous owner said that he'd added in the later model's rear brake bleeder under the dummy tank, its rusted over and leaking a bit which explains my mushy brake pedal so that'll need redone. That aside I'm pretty sure the clutch will need to be bled, it grabs really high. If anyone has experience with doing this I'd greatly appreciate pointers. Thanks again everyone!

-J

[made2care]

Lots of great help on this forum. Check out my thread. I'm getting close to installing the carbs (cost me $700 for a professional rebuild) and firing this baby up. This would be my first off frame resto but I'm not restoring every little piece like some have. Mainly fixed 2nd gear, purchased new slave cylinder, starter, neutral switch, tires, battery and so on. If all goes well, I should attempt first start sometime this month.

Good luck with your bike. 83 design is very unique.

 

p.s. Forgot to mention the most important part, "the frame" it was severely cracked and I had to purchase a new one, then had it beefed up with extra welds and supports. You might check yours around the rear suspension.