DaNetFlunky Posted July 29, 2019 #1 Posted July 29, 2019 Hello fellas! Got a few questions I can't find an answer to by searching these forums. As suspected I did the PCW clutch upgrade and replaced the DOT 4 fluid as it was dark. Not too hard of a job as I'm only mechanically inclined with little to no experience. However, once the upgrade was done I discovered the clutch friction zone is now only about 1/2 inch at the end of clutch handle travel when the clutch handle is let out. It hooks up just fine. No slip when applying hard acceleration in higher gears. Is this clutch handle friction zone area correct? I would think the friction zone area should be close to the handle for better/easier control. Also, I did line up the friction plate notches but did not consciously set the plates in the basket as described with the plate notches in the slot with 2 dots/marks. Is this mandatory for proper/safe operation? Hopefully your input will negate the need for another opening of the clutch compartment. Thanks, Mark Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Rafterd Posted July 29, 2019 #2 Posted July 29, 2019 Clutch is not bread properly. Start at the master cylinder. Be sure to place a rag under it. Pump leaver 3 times and hold. Loosen the 12mm banjo bolt at the end of the master cylinder. Watch for air and fluid, retighten the bolt, then release the lever. Repeat till no air comes out. Watch the fluid level. Then go to the slave cylinder behind the left rear cylinder a black rubber plug. Attach a clear hose to the bleeder top and use an 8mm wrench to loosen. Pump clutch lever 3 times and hold, loosen bleeder valve and watch for air bubbles in the hose. Repeat 5-6 times or until no air bubbles come out. Be sure to close bleeder valve between each cycle. Don’t let the master cylinder go dry, or you can start all over. Be sure not to get brake fluid on painted or plastic surfaces. Good luck.
DaNetFlunky Posted July 30, 2019 Author #3 Posted July 30, 2019 Hey Rafterd! Seems I missed anything about bleeding at the banjo connection. I pumped it up and cracked that joint open and it spit like a snake. Air and fluid. Subsequent tries yielded only fluid. Checked the slave bleeder valve which only yielded fluid. Started the engine and tested the friction zone. It seems closer to the handle. It's getting ready to rain here but you can be sure I'll be checking it out asap on the road. Thank you sir! Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
DaNetFlunky Posted July 30, 2019 Author #4 Posted July 30, 2019 Now about this: anyone? I did line up the friction plate notches but did not consciously set the plates in the basket as described with the plate notches in the slot with 2 dots/marks. Is this mandatory for proper/safe operation? Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Marcarl Posted July 30, 2019 #5 Posted July 30, 2019 Now about this: anyone? I did line up the friction plate notches but did not consciously set the plates in the basket as described with the plate notches in the slot with 2 dots/marks. Is this mandatory for proper/safe operation? Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk I kind of thought at one time, that perfection in line up shouldn't matter a whole lot,, I was wrong and ended up doing as instructed and solved my then happening issue. I have more issues today but that's another story, and there are no instructions to follow, only deletions.
DaNetFlunky Posted July 30, 2019 Author #6 Posted July 30, 2019 Marcarl, what were the issue that were cleared up? Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Du-Rron Posted July 30, 2019 #7 Posted July 30, 2019 Marcarl, what were the issue that were cleared up? Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk Look at 8:15 in Video 8 for your answer. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?118675-Yamaha-Venture-Factory-Maintenance-Repair-Videos If you remove the half-disk and install a full disk (no wire no belleville washe) you will lose clutch lever travel and that is part of the deal. I reinstalled the half disk back into mine.
Flyinfool Posted July 30, 2019 #8 Posted July 30, 2019 As mentioned, if you replaced the half disc with a full disk, the friction zone will get a lot narrower and be moved out toward the beginning of lever travel. It only takes a couple good days of tooling around in heavy city traffic to teach your fingers the new clutch engagement point, after that you will not even notice it much.
DaNetFlunky Posted July 30, 2019 Author #9 Posted July 30, 2019 Ahh! Thanks to du-Rron and Flyinfool I'm in tall cotton! Don't have to open that unit. I'm good with the engagement out at the end as long as that is where it's supposed to be. I got a big hand so.... Notta probleemo! Let's ride! Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
DaNetFlunky Posted July 30, 2019 Author #10 Posted July 30, 2019 Well, now my ocd checks in and I do have to open that unit and check the assembly like DuRron alluded to when looking at the video he suggested. Dang nab it! Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Rafterd Posted August 1, 2019 #11 Posted August 1, 2019 Hey Rafterd! Seems I missed anything about bleeding at the banjo connection. I pumped it up and cracked that joint open and it spit like a snake. Air and fluid. Subsequent tries yielded only fluid. Checked the slave bleeder valve which only yielded fluid. Started the engine and tested the friction zone. It seems closer to the handle. It's getting ready to rain here but you can be sure I'll be checking it out asap on the road. Thank you sir! Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk Fantastic!! Bill
DaNetFlunky Posted August 1, 2019 Author #12 Posted August 1, 2019 Well, the video explained that the clutch should be assembled in a specific way....or....180 degrees out from that specific way. I had assembled the clutch 180 degree out, which worked of course, but I went ahead and put it back to original spec. Didn't change operation at all. The lever engages as mentioned at the beginning of lever travel, the clutch hooks up nice and tight. The cover didn't leak. I'm back in that tall cotton field! Thanks for chiming in. I appreciate it! Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Marcarl Posted August 1, 2019 #13 Posted August 1, 2019 I'm glad you is happy,,,, now can I go get my nap now?
DaNetFlunky Posted August 4, 2019 Author #14 Posted August 4, 2019 Ok, assuming naps are all done now. I have an idea. Like others I do not prefer the clutch handle operation now. I was thinking if the master cylinder plunger or clutch handle itself was modified to move the engagement zone closer to the grip it would be a bit easier to control. Any good ideas on that little piece of modification? Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Du-Rron Posted August 4, 2019 #15 Posted August 4, 2019 Ok, assuming naps are all done now. I have an idea. Like others I do not prefer the clutch handle operation now. I was thinking if the master cylinder plunger or clutch handle itself was modified to move the engagement zone closer to the grip it would be a bit easier to control. Any good ideas on that little piece of modification? Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk It has been mentioned that you can get used to it. I preferred the old feel so I never could. No belleville washer and half disk and wire means you lose that part of your cushioned clutch travel. Your only choice to get it back is to reinstall those parts. Alas, that is what I did. Do not worry, your clutch will not slip if you reinstall those parts as long as all your other disks are ok. Keep the NEW heavier spring though. That is what does the trick to keep the clutch from slipping.
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