Synthetic vs dino oil on shifting

[Kachow]

It's unbelievable. PO had whatever brand dino oil, less than 1000 miles on it--shifted like a Harley and I thought "ok this bike's a hog on shifting." Today went to full synth 10-40, which I've been running in my other bikes, and now she shifts soo much smoother and easier, night and day.

[Kachow]

It's unbelievable. PO had whatever brand dino oil, less than 1000 miles on it--shifted like a Harley and I thought "ok this bike's a hog on shifting." Today went to full synth 10-40, which I've been running in my other bikes, and now she shifts soo much smoother and easier, night and day.

 

So after my post I got curious if there'd be any clutch slippage and sure enough, just in 4th (probably also 5th--couldn't go fast enough on that run to find out) and just when it reaches peak HP, not at all until. Darn. Still, the trade-off for really smooth shifting vs. slight slippage on the highway? There are of course other benefits to running full synthetic, and the brand I use (Valvoline 4T) doesn't have any additives (so it's ok for wet clutch) and doesn't make my Valkyrie's clutch slip. Should I try another brand next oil change (maybe Mobile 4T), or is the only fix replacing clutch springs/parts? I really don't want to go back to conventional oil, and I heard going back to dino after full synthetic can cause problems and should be avoided (fact check?).

[Du-Rron]

So after my post I got curious if there'd be any clutch slippage and sure enough, just in 4th (probably also 5th--couldn't go fast enough on that run to find out) and just when it reaches peak HP, not at all until. Darn. Still, the trade-off for really smooth shifting vs. slight slippage on the highway? There are of course other benefits to running full synthetic, and the brand I use (Valvoline 4T) doesn't have any additives (so it's ok for wet clutch) and doesn't make my Valkyrie's clutch slip. Should I try another brand next oil change (maybe Mobile 4T), or is the only fix replacing clutch springs/parts? I really don't want to go back to conventional oil, and I heard going back to dino after full synthetic can cause problems and should be avoided (fact check?).

 

If you used this oil

then it is not the cause of your clutch slipping.

 

How long have you owned the bike? Have you read all the tech forums right here concerning the Royal Star Clutch on your 23 year old clutch?

 

You can run synthetic one oil change and conventional the next with no problems as long as both oils have the same ratings.

[djh3]

I've run both. I prefer Synthetic. The additives in the Syn oils have longer lasting properties. May be psychological but I feel the Syn shifts better. I also run the little bit longer oil filter. I have run the Shell T-5 I think it is blended, T-6 Syn, Mobil 1 10w40 and V-twin 20-50 in summer, Valvoline MC oil, and a couple others. The T-6 is my go to oil even on the Victory.

[Kachow]

If you used this oil

 

then it is not the cause of your clutch slipping.

 

How long have you owned the bike? Have you read all the tech forums right here concerning the Royal Star Clutch on your 23 year old clutch?

 

You can run synthetic one oil change and conventional the next with no problems as long as both oils have the same ratings.

 

I just bought the bike a week ago I haven't even ridden it a thousand miles. And I can't say I've read all about clutches on this forum but I have read a couple threads and one in particular where the individual was advised to change the clutch springs rather than another approach to fixing the slippage. He was particularly interested whether it was the brand of oil he used. I am using that Valvoline 4T per your pic, and as I mentioned I've used it on other bikes and currently use it on my Honda Valkyrie and have no problems with clutch slippage. Its lubricity is excellent, and I'm not speculating about the improved shifting with it on the Royal Star -- it is real not simply imagined. That's why I'd kind of like to stick with it. At any rate, the bottom line you're implying, I think, is I need to do some work on my clutch correct? Otherwise, since it's okay to switch back to the same grade of dino oil, then I could do that even at the cost of tougher shifting. I'll have to consider it.

[Du-Rron]

I just bought the bike a week ago I haven't even ridden it a thousand miles. And I can't say I've read all about clutches on this forum but I have read a couple threads and one in particular where the individual was advised to change the clutch springs rather than another approach to fixing the slippage. He was particularly interested whether it was the brand of oil he used. I am using that Valvoline 4T per your pic, and as I mentioned I've used it on other bikes and currently use it on my Honda Valkyrie and have no problems with clutch slippage. Its lubricity is excellent, and I'm not speculating about the improved shifting with it on the Royal Star -- it is real not simply imagined. That's why I'd kind of like to stick with it. At any rate, the bottom line you're implying, I think, is I need to do some work on my clutch correct? Otherwise, since it's okay to switch back to the same grade of dino oil, then I could do that even at the cost of tougher shifting. I'll have to consider it.

 

Yamaha Royal Star/Ventures have notoriously slippy clutches.

 

You have to make your clutch all it can be.

 

Get the SERVICE MANUAL available on here.

 

The short course.........

 

Stage One Clutch:

New clutch fluid and a bleed job. Make sure the tiny vent hole in the top of the master is unblocked by probing it with a very small wire. Pull & Release clutch lever slowly to avoid taking a bath in brake fluid while you are checking this hole.

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?83116-Bleeding-the-Clutch

 

 

Stage two Clutch:

Get serious and rebuild the XX year old master and slave cylinders and replace the who knows how old clutch lines.

 

Stage three clutch:

Get a clutch kit from @skydoc_17 and replace the spring. Optionally replace the half-disk.

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?10518-Clutch-Upgrade

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?139137-Second-Gen-Heavy-Duty-Clutch-Spring-amp-Full-Disc-Upgrade-Kit!

 

 

Stage four clutch:

Install a Barnett clutch plate

http://www.barnettclutches.com/1322/yamaha/0/0/2005-yamaha-xvz13-royal-star-venture/midnight-venture.html

 

Stage five clutch:

Only for those that want Popeye left forearm and intend to pull hay bale trailers.

Install TWO diaphragm springs from @skydoc_17

[baylensman]

I highly recommend the stage three (haha) I did it on my bike years ago. After that just keep up on the oil changes and it will shift well for a long time

[Kachow]

Yeah I'm going to do phase 3. The bikes got a lot of horsepower it's a shame not to have it delivered to the rear wheel.

[Kachow]

Okay well I did my clutch today and I just went out for a quick test run afterwards and everything seemed fine but I didn't really romp on it yet. The jury's still out I guess whether she'll slip in the higher gears. I'll find out soon enough and keep you posted

[M61A1MECH]

You did not mention how many miles on the bike, for what it is worth, the clutches on my 98 Tour Classic and my 2007 Venture both started slipping around 40,000 miles, on the 98 for lack of any other good advice I put in all new friction plates and a new OEM spring, clutch was fine after that for 56,000 more miles when I sold it, on the 07 I just upgraded the spring with one of SkyDoc's heavier springs, it was fine for the next 30,000 miles when I sold it.

 

I will also say stay away from Yamaha lube oils, I am convinced that using it was what caused my 98 to start slipping, once I changed it back to Honda GN4, it got better but still had some slippage, unit the clutch plates and spring were changed.

[Kachow]

My bike a 96 only has 20K miles on it. I don't know what kind of Rider the previous owner was or what kind of riding he did, but 20K seems like really premature to need a clutch. Anyway, first thing I did when I got in there was inspect all of the clutch parts and the friction plates were all within spec .114 to .122. So I was a little skeptical whether the new friction plates would help but so far so good it's been an improvement. I'm not using yamalube and I'm not using full synthetic anymore I'm just going to use plain old conventional oil that I buy at Wally World. But this far into it I would say it was necessary and successful. And I thank you guys for your advice about what to do for the fix.

[Freebird]

You say you are using plain old conventional motor oil. That may or may not be OK. It depends somewhat on the weight. Most 10w/30, 5w/30 and other various weights have friction modifiers. If it says or has the symbol for "energy conserving", you clutch will be slipping agin before you know it.

[Kachow]

I knew enough to get oil with no modifiers

[Kachow]

Just a follow-up I did put in the new clutch pack as I mentioned and went to the conventional motorcycle oil so all seems well after about six hundred miles. Doesn't slip even in the higher gears...yet:cool10: