Inboard rear brake pad wearing more than the outboard

[BlueSky]

I watched the attached video. At about 2.22 of the video, the guy says the inboard brake pad wearing more than the outboard pad is an issue with these RSVs and adding a washer will correct the issue. Do any members have experience with this to pass on?

 

[Du-Rron]

I watched the attached video. At about 2.22 of the video, the guy says the inboard brake pad wearing more than the outboard pad is an issue with these RSVs and adding a washer will correct the issue. Do any members have experience with this to pass on?

 

 

I guess to each his own... and the whole world is a critic...

 

1. Yes, the rear pads wear wonky. I just swap mine around every 4 or 5 thousand miles to even out the wear. It also give me a good excuse to be in that area to go in, clean them up, and lubricate them.

 

2. I disagree with not pulling the left muffler as I cant figure how to get a torque wrench back on that nut. If you are attempting to torque through the axle via the 10mm hex this won't work for me cause, my axle is notched to always point to the pinch bolt for alignment. I always have to tighten the nut, not the axle.

 

3. I just love watching amateur mechanics whip out the electric wrenches for THREE BOLTS. Which is fine that they do that, just hope they don't use them to put the stuff back together.

[CaseyJ955]

Not a bad video for someone having to do the job and not familiar with the procedure, this would have been a great time to pop a new rear tire on.

[BlueSky]

I just looked at my RSV's rear caliper with the bag off and it is not centered on the disc. It is mounted more to outboard side at the rear of the caliper. The front of the caliper is a little the other way it appears. So, I think the washer may be a good idea because it probably will center the caliper on the disc at the rear of the caliper. After I remove my caliper and if the inside pad is worn more than the outside pad I think I will add a washer like the video suggested to see if that helps.

[BlueSky]

That's a really good point about not removing the left side muffler. Evidently, the video guy is relying on his calibrated arms to torque the axle nut correctly. I think I'd rather use a torque wrench!

 

When I was 19 and even more ignorant than today, I rebuilt the engine in my 56 Chevy Convertible reassembling it without using a torque wrench on the head bolts, rod bolts, and main bearing bolts. I drove it very hard for about 7,000 more miles before trading it and it held up that far!!!?? My next rebuild at age 24 was on a 65 Chevelle 327 engine and I had access to the US Army craft shop that had torque wrenches so I used them that time. Man, those cars were so easy to work on.

Edited July 7, 2019 by BlueSky

[djh3]

I just applied the "oil change, swap rear pads" method.

[VentureFar]

You know what happens if you are going 70mph on a down hill freeway off ramp and you go 3 oil changes without swapping the the rear pads? You hit the rear brake and the piston pops loose because there is nothing in front of it and brake fluid sprays all over the tire. Did I mention that the rear break isn’t working and trying to kill at the same time?

And I scored the rotor so badly I needed a new one.

Now I swap the rear pads every oil change.

Lesson learned.

VentureFar...

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BlueSky]

You know what happens if you are going 70mph on a down hill freeway off ramp and you go 3 oil changes without swapping the the rear pads? You hit the rear brake and the piston pops loose because there is nothing in front of it and brake fluid sprays all over the tire. Did I mention that the rear break isn’t working and trying to kill at the same time?

And I scored the rotor so badly I needed a new one.

Now I swap the rear pads every oil change.

Lesson learned.

VentureFar...

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

This is a good reason to try to center the caliper on the rotor so the uneven wear may not happen. It's worth a try I think.

[dave_wells]

Here is the easy solution I have used for the past 12 years on both my RSTD and my Venture. Sorry I can not find the article.

 

Simple solution that has worked for me. Run the brake fluid a little low.

 

What is happening is the fluid is getting warm and expanding. This puts pressure on the inner pistons. The don't release all the way. They wear in a wedge shape. By leaving a little room in the main reservoir allowing the fluid to expand into the reservoir and not put the additional pressure on the rear pad. I had the pads wear in a wedge twice. Then I started running the fluid a little low and I never had the issue again. The bike braked just fine

 

all I can add is, it worked for me

[Drake44135]

Hey, look at that good looking guy. Looks like me. hahahahahahaa

 

I watched the attached video. At about 2.22 of the video, the guy says the inboard brake pad wearing more than the outboard pad is an issue with these RSVs and adding a washer will correct the issue. Do any members have experience with this to pass on?

 

[Drake44135]

Not a bad video for someone having to do the job and not familiar with the procedure, this would have been a great time to pop a new rear tire on.

 

Yep, I did put a new tire on. I was just trying to be helpful. I took it all back apart and did the tire too. I am sure this website will not beat me up too much. but it appears I might not be right. lets see.

[Drake44135]

I guess to each his own... and the whole world is a critic...

 

1. Yes, the rear pads wear wonky. I just swap mine around every 4 or 5 thousand miles to even out the wear. It also give me a good excuse to be in that area to go in, clean them up, and lubricate them.

 

2. I disagree with not pulling the left muffler as I cant figure how to get a torque wrench back on that nut. If you are attempting to torque through the axle via the 10mm hex this won't work for me cause, my axle is notched to always point to the pinch bolt for alignment. I always have to tighten the nut, not the axle.

 

3. I just love watching amateur mechanics whip out the electric wrenches for THREE BOLTS. Which is fine that they do that, just hope they don't use them to put the stuff back together.

 

 

1. Why replace pads that soon, when you can just extend the life to normal mileage by not wearing down.

2. You are right, I should pull the other bag off, I am not a human Torque wrench.

3. I am a amateur mechanic, trying to save myself some money. I agree with your critique.

[Drake44135]

That's a really good point about not removing the left side muffler. Evidently, the video guy is relying on his calibrated arms to torque the axle nut correctly. I think I'd rather use a torque wrench!

 

The torque wrench part is accurate. I made a mistake.

[CaseyJ955]

Yep, I did put a new tire on. I was just trying to be helpful. I took it all back apart and did the tire too. I am sure this website will not beat me up too much. but it appears I might not be right. lets see.

 

I wont beat ya up. It's cool of you to take the time to create and post a video of something that most of us will have to do at some point and were not born knowing how to do. Since I've never posted a helpful (or any) video I didn't feel qualified to pick at it. Besides, if I needed to R&R a Gen2 rear wheel this would be helpful, which unless I'm mistaken that was the purpose of the video. IMHO it has value and youtube is better off with it than without it.

 

I couldn't help note the tire though since I've seen a few folks running around with tires just like that one . Thank you for taking the time to share the procedure.

[Patch]

The spacer/washer makes sense to me; what doesn't make sense is why? When odds don't add to evens I can't overlook the why's

[BlueSky]

The spacer/washer makes sense to me; what doesn't make sense is why? When odds don't add to evens I can't overlook the why's

 

After looking at the caliper position on my RSV, it would appear that Yamaha didn't machine the caliper holder (for lack of a better word) to center the caliper on the rotor. And from all the discussions, it would appear that Yamaha was consistent with all the RSVs. So, I strongly suspect that if the caliper was centered on the rotor, the pads would wear evenly. That's the why. Poor mechanical desgin by Yamaha.

[BlueSky]

Hey, look at that good looking guy. Looks like me. hahahahahahaa

 

Thank you Sir for the video. I plan to use that washer idea.

[Patch]

After looking at the caliper position on my RSV, it would appear that Yamaha didn't machine the caliper holder (for lack of a better word) to center the caliper on the rotor. And from all the discussions, it would appear that Yamaha was consistent with all the RSVs. So, I strongly suspect that if the caliper was centered on the rotor, the pads would wear evenly. That's the why. Poor mechanical desgin by Yamaha.

 

And there is no adjustment or play in the mounting bracket? So be it..

 

Wow I guess Grandpa Puc must be out pitching tent somewhere under the stars? Thought for sure he'd accept my invitation

[BlueSky]

And there is no adjustment or play in the mounting bracket? So be it..

 

Well the point I was trying to make by posting the video link was to show that you just might be able to center the caliper with shims or washers or even grinding the front if you are careful. I'm going to try the washer. After I get my RSV back up on the jack I'm going to measure the front of the caliper to see how far off center it is and see if I can do something about it. Laying on the floor looking at it, it appeared to be closer to the inboard side, the opposite of the rear of the caliper. If so, it may take some grinding to center it. But the washer will probably center the caliper in the rear. I'll take a good look at it soon.

[Patch]

Well the point I was trying to make by posting the video link was to show that you just might be able to center the caliper with shims or washers or even grinding the front if you are careful. I'm going to try the washer. After I get my RSV back up on the jack I'm going to measure the front of the caliper to see how far off center it is and see if I can do something about it. Laying on the floor looking at it, it appeared to be closer to the inboard side, the opposite of the rear of the caliper. If so, it may take some grinding to center it. But the washer will probably center the caliper in the rear. I'll take a good look at it soon.

 

May I suggest a different way? I'll take your pause as a yes

 

If the pad is new and flat could you not use the backing/rubbing pad to align the rear caliper, instead of measuring, and instead of maybe grinding off material that might otherwise serve best if not removed?

 

Not to say you can't divide the caliper bridge but, center at the bridge may not be center of the disk... there could be an offset!

Just a thought

[Du-Rron]

HOWDY from San Angelo (Currently the 8th Hottest City in the Nation) and Welcome!!!

 

1. Why replace pads that soon, when you can just extend the life to normal mileage by not wearing down.

 

Yeah right. I agree. That is why I swap the pads left/right every 4/5 thousand miles so they will wear evenly. I am mildly against the washer idea as a casual washer without the correct ID/OD and hardness can make an impression against the aluminum over time causing another problem. If you are an anal mechanic like I am this stuff drives you crazy.

 

I am a amateur mechanic, trying to save myself some money...

 

I am all for saving a buck and I applaud your efforts whole heartedly. Just a tip for you that you may consider. The power tools will get you into trouble, especially on motorcycles, quicker than hand tools. Consider using just hand tools on motorcycles for 95% of all jobs and never use power tools for assembly.

(I know... caveat emptor is removing the 20 case bolts, but outside of that...you know what I mean)

 

I really love my RSV and enjoy working on it when it needs it. Thank you for your Video.

[BlueSky]

May I suggest a different way? I'll take your pause as a yes

 

If the pad is new and flat could you not use the backing/rubbing pad to align the rear caliper, instead of measuring, and instead of maybe grinding off material that might otherwise serve best if not removed?

 

Not to say you can't divide the caliper bridge but, center at the bridge may not be center of the disk... there could be an offset!

Just a thought

 

Good point. Something to consider. I'll know more the next time I get my RSV up on the stand. I'd like to try to remedy this situation. There is a chance it can reduce the lockup problem with the rear brake or might even make it lock up quicker.

[BlueSky]

HOWDY from San Angelo (Currently the 8th Hottest City in the Nation) and Welcome!!!

 

 

I am all for saving a buck and I applaud your efforts whole heartedly. Just a tip for you that you may consider. The power tools will get you into trouble, especially on motorcycles, quicker than hand tools. Consider using just hand tools on motorcycles for 95% of all jobs and never use power tools for assembly.

(I know... caveat emptor is removing the 20 case bolts, but outside of that...you know what I mean)

 

I really love my RSV and enjoy working on it when it needs it. Thank you for your Video.

 

I learned this lesson last year when I replaced my riding lawn mower engine. I was using an air operated ratchet and I stripped the threads in the block on a small bolt. It wasn't a huge problem. I just tapped the hole larger and used a larger bolt but it taught me a lesson about using power tools on aluminum.

[Patch]

 

I am mildly against the washer idea as a casual washer without the correct ID/OD and hardness can make an impression against the aluminum over time causing another problem. If you are an anal mechanic like I am this stuff drives you crazy.

 

 

I caught glimpse of your reply during the day, knowing you I thought maybe I'd kick it around a bit as to why you is wrong about it!

Well modeling the loads (in my alien brain) I see our mistake at excepting this patch too quickly; Hmm!

First thought we know we should have a bolt that is strong enough with a snug shank so, movement should be limited once compressed/torqued!? However the active and continuous loading is rotational and therefore I have to change my mind and agree with you Mr. Du no R Ron'g!

The hardened washer would be technically incorrect.. hmm hmm

Patch

[BlueSky]

I was thinking about using the washer on the rear bolt of the caliper but that might make an uneven connection with the front bolt. And it also appears at first glance that some metal may have to be ground off to get the front of the caliper to center on the rotor. Then I remembered something my Dad told me. He worked at the power generation station for a small town in the early 50's. The town got its power from several diesel generators. When a rod started knocking in those diesels they had to hone the babbitt in the rod to get it to fit the crank again. They used something like prussian blue on the babbitt and turned the engine to see where it touched the crank and where it didn't. Sounded like a slow process but it worked. Something like that could be done to make sure the front of the caliper was bolted back with the surfaces mating flat against each other.