Motor Locked up from sitting so long.

[snyper316]

I Haven't made any post in a while, been kinda watching 2 builds go on in the forum. One of the builds posted an ad from craiglist and it was way too good of a deal to pass up! Granted I have parts and such I have 3 motors that are locked up. Two of which had the boxes on them. These 2 some how had water sitting in the carbs so I am a little dumbfounded by that. They were litterally out in the woods, now i know these motors are bulletproof! Unfortunately the motors are froze stiff. I don't even know if the motors would be worth trying to free them up. Not even sure how to really go about it except for putting oil in the Cylinders. I flipped one upside down today to the water out of the top side. I also was looking at possibly putting a 99 motor in one of the frames. Would a 99 fit or bolt up? I know the exhaust is different and some other things are different. Just curious if it could be done. Another possibility would be getting a Vmax motor and putting that in. I saw these 3 bikes and thought of my chopper build, I just could not bring myself to tare down Tinker. She is a damn good bike. these bikes as far as plastics good there is only one set of saddle bags and a tour pack that was salvageable the rest of the plastics are brittle and no good. So now I am asking what you all would do.... also I got a bit of trivia for you guys to check out and see if you know what it is!

[luvmy40]

No clue what that is!

 

On the seized engines, there's a an old school process I've seen examples of successfully reviving 80+ year old engines.

 

Heat the engine up with an electric hot plate, drain the old oil and sludge, flush with kerosene, refill with fresh oil, add oil to the cylinders, reheat and hand crank.

 

Like I said, I've seen this work on 1 and 2 cylinder antique engines and I have freed a seized vacuum pump with a similar procedure(no kerosene).

[snyper316]

No clue what that is!

 

On the seized engines, there's a an old school process I've seen examples of successfully reviving 80+ year old engines.

 

Heat the engine up with an electric hot plate, drain the old oil and sludge, flush with kerosene, refill with fresh oil, add oil to the cylinders, reheat and hand crank.

 

Like I said, I've seen this work on 1 and 2 cylinder antique engines and I have freed a seized vacuum pump with a similar procedure(no kerosene).

 

I don't even know where to find the Kerosene! Now I came across diesel used, or gas oil mix, PB Blaster and a friend suggested using something called Kroil! I had another reply on this thread don't know what happened to it strange!!

[Marcarl]

I've heard about success by poring Coke into the cylinders, let sit for a couple of days and then try to crank it. If it moves at all it's then time to clear the coke, add marvel mystery oil and clean out the engine of all the old stuff before cycling it. Not sure how good it works, but that seemed to be the hearsay.

[BlueSky]

I would use penetrating oil in the cylinders and let it sit for a while.

[cowpuc]

Grab a cheap bore scope off ebay and take a look around - never know what cha might find.. Couple tablespoons of Marvel Mystery down each intake in an attempt to free up the valves that are rusted closed. Then do the same with each pot and leave the plugs out. After sitting for few days, put a socket on the stator rotor nut with a breaker bar on it and rock the crank back and forth. This doesn't always work though,, I have had em so stuck from sitting that I had to drive the pistons out with a hunk of oak wood and beater. Bottom line, even if you do get her broke free you very well may end up with a rebuild project as corroded cylinders with a ridge built up from rust doesn't always fair well with ring faces... All IMHO of course! Good find Snype!!

[CaseyJ955]

I believe the 99 motor will bolt into the frame but the exhaust ports are a little different (which is why Vmax heads wont work on the Gen2). Look at the exhaust ports and see if you wont need to do a custom exhaust to use the 99 motor in a Gen1 frame. There may be other complications I'm not aware of, it's not a swap I have tried.

[snyper316]

I believe the 99 motor will bolt into the frame but the exhaust ports are a little different (which is why Vmax heads wont work on the Gen2). Look at the exhaust ports and see if you wont need to do a custom exhaust to use the 99 motor in a Gen1 frame. There may be other complications I'm not aware of, it's not a swap I have tried.

 

They don't call it chopper for no reason! My main concern is final drive! Then again I could switch swing arm out.

[djh3]

This is the stuff you want. Aero Kroil This stuff is da sheetz. One of my heros Dave Walkisher (wheels thru time) uses this stuff. We have some at the shop we use on exhaust manifold bolts or really rusted or cruded up stuff. PB or WD has nuttin on this stuff.

[snyper316]

This is the stuff you want. Aero Kroil This stuff is da sheetz. One of my heros Dave Walkisher (wheels thru time) uses this stuff. We have some at the shop we use on exhaust manifold bolts or really rusted or cruded up stuff. PB or WD has nuttin on this stuff.

 

Yes!! I was told of this stuff to, Right now out of all honesty I haven't popped the plugs out trying to get all salvagable plastic and such out of the way first. I did uncover a Markland Cruise control unit on the bike with the fairing. Along with that lighter in the picture. I am gonna try to fix that see if i can get it to work. Pretty interesting finds really, then i Have some box i have no clue what it is at the moment. I plan to strip all wires then wire up the necassary stuff myself. Charging, fuel pump, sparks etc. but right now need to evict the tenants in the 2 bikes!!

[CaseyJ955]

They don't call it chopper for no reason! My main concern is final drive! Then again I could switch swing arm out.

 

I think the Gen1 exh ports exit right where the frame is and use of an older engine requires cutting up/modifying the Gen2 frame. Definitely something interesting to watch for. As you say, a chopper is a good thing and affords ingenuity!

 

I have bits of an 85 Vmax ready to hit the landfill very soon. The pumpkin is gone but the final drive housing and a few other knick knacks are there. If you need any of the VMX bits for your build let me know.

[HermanK84VR]

I have had buddies unlock cylinders by pouring ATF or diesel into the cylinders and letting them soak for at least a week.

 

Suction out the cylinders and try turning it over with no Plugs installed.

 

Like Puc said it is hit and miss all depends on how long the rustys have been playing in the cylinders.

 

Ideally if you can get it freed up enough to pull the pistons a fresh honing can clean up the cylinders.

 

Rings may be bad you may have a taper in the cylinders or a heavy ridge all unknown until it is disassembled.

 

with regards to water in the Carbs with the Boxes installed were the bikes in an area that may have gotten flooded at some time, maybe the bikes were submerged at some point.

 

Hermank84VR

[cowpuc]

I have had buddies unlock cylinders by pouring ATF or diesel into the cylinders and letting them soak for at least a week.

 

Suction out the cylinders and try turning it over with no Plugs installed.

 

Like Puc said it is hit and miss all depends on how long the rustys have been playing in the cylinders.

 

Ideally if you can get it freed up enough to pull the pistons a fresh honing can clean up the cylinders.

 

Rings may be bad you may have a taper in the cylinders or a heavy ridge all unknown until it is disassembled.

 

with regards to water in the Carbs with the Boxes installed were the bikes in an area that may have gotten flooded at some time, maybe the bikes were submerged at some point.

 

Hermank84VR

 

:sign yeah that:

 

also remember,, if things went south enough that the jugs have actually collected water in them, the probability of moisture having collected in other unwanted area's is increased substantially IMHO.. Bearing surfaces dont take to kindly to rust formation and any associated pitting from such. It would be a tearful moment to spend hours splitting the cases and pulling the pistons to toss a new cross hatch on the jugs and then put it all back together only to discover a couple thousand miles later (or less) that the cams are jumping up and down in their saddles cause they didnt get the attention they needed at rebuild.. IMHO,, there are lots of other things to think thru if your really gonna rebuild/build a motor out of the bunch Snype..

Personally,, I think you should pull em all down, sort thru the parts and pieces tossing a set of Micrometers at the pieces as you go so you can get the best of the best for your build.. Take the top case in and have it bored 1st over so your starting from fresh bore, drop in a new 2nd Gear thrust assembly so your good to go on the tranny, inspect the crank bearings for water/rust spots, watch the bike swaps for a decent Springer front end of at least 10 over variety and then set up the best of the frames on a platform so the bottom rails are level with the ground when the rear wheel is touching the ground so you can layout the amount of rake you will need to bring the Springer to the trail geometry you are looking for (I always liked as close to zero while staying in positive trail on my +10 over builds) and then proceed to cut the frame/work on frame design.

LOTS to do,, LOTS of fun!!

[snyper316]

I think the Gen1 exh ports exit right where the frame is and use of an older engine requires cutting up/modifying the Gen2 frame. Definitely something interesting to watch for. As you say, a chopper is a good thing and affords ingenuity!

 

I have bits of an 85 Vmax ready to hit the landfill very soon. The pumpkin is gone but the final drive housing and a few other knick knacks are there. If you need any of the VMX bits for your build let me know.

 

I have had buddies unlock cylinders by pouring ATF or diesel into the cylinders and letting them soak for at least a week.

 

Suction out the cylinders and try turning it over with no Plugs installed.

 

Like Puc said it is hit and miss all depends on how long the rustys have been playing in the cylinders.

 

Ideally if you can get it freed up enough to pull the pistons a fresh honing can clean up the cylinders.

 

Rings may be bad you may have a taper in the cylinders or a heavy ridge all unknown until it is disassembled.

 

with regards to water in the Carbs with the Boxes installed were the bikes in an area that may have gotten flooded at some time, maybe the bikes were submerged at some point.

 

Hermank84VR

 

:sign yeah that:

 

also remember,, if things went south enough that the jugs have actually collected water in them, the probability of moisture having collected in other unwanted area's is increased substantially IMHO.. Bearing surfaces dont take to kindly to rust formation and any associated pitting from such. It would be a tearful moment to spend hours splitting the cases and pulling the pistons to toss a new cross hatch on the jugs and then put it all back together only to discover a couple thousand miles later (or less) that the cams are jumping up and down in their saddles cause they didnt get the attention they needed at rebuild.. IMHO,, there are lots of other things to think thru if your really gonna rebuild/build a motor out of the bunch Snype..

Personally,, I think you should pull em all down, sort thru the parts and pieces tossing a set of Micrometers at the pieces as you go so you can get the best of the best for your build.. Take the top case in and have it bored 1st over so your starting from fresh bore, drop in a new 2nd Gear thrust assembly so your good to go on the tranny, inspect the crank bearings for water/rust spots, watch the bike swaps for a decent Springer front end of at least 10 over variety and then set up the best of the frames on a platform so the bottom rails are level with the ground when the rear wheel is touching the ground so you can layout the amount of rake you will need to bring the Springer to the trail geometry you are looking for (I always liked as close to zero while staying in positive trail on my +10 over builds) and then proceed to cut the frame/work on frame design.

LOTS to do,, LOTS of fun!!

 

Bad news, I pulled the carbs out and discovered water sitting!!! Drained the oil pan and clear water came out with the sludge coming out next.I don't think i can save this motor. Its the one with a title. so looks like i wont be rebuilding that motor. I am not even sure if its possible to get new rings, bearings etc for a build. If so i would like to bore them out a little ways add a little extra pep maybe make them a 1300 motor! Seems the cheapest way to go would be newer motor to be honest. I still am flirting with throwing the 2nd gen motor on the frame to be honest I can't believe I am saying this, I want more chrome!! I also like zags exhaust, thinking it be easier and cheaper with a 2nd gen motor! So probably get a 2nd gen wire harness, coils, tci box and fuel pump should take care of that. I am still trying to think what I want for a fuel cell. Maybe something kinda like an old fountain coke cylinder look... then run a half kegger air horn tank! LMAO. crazy ideas. I would like to still rebuild one of these motors tho it be in my spare time kind of deal. Seems I am doing ok at Sonic at the moment maybe work my way back into a factory job somewhere. I have got to be careful tho as I am dealing with some weird things going on still. The pain from the accident still likes to haunt me. Never did i think a fall at 35mph hour would still hurt this far out! Did not help that I kept trying to jump right back to things as soon as a I felt better! Kept getting in trouble by a Dr for that one!

I did take and syphoned the water out of the intake area and sprayed in crap ton of pb blaster. Now on the kerosen subject. I have done that a very long time ago but back then Kerosene wasn't $9.83 a gallon either!!!!

[CaseyJ955]

At the very least a full disassembly and inspection of all internal parts would be prudent before pouring any money in. Maybe you could peek into the block with a borescope and see if it's clean or sketchy. With that much water inside for who knows how long. if the planets are lined up correctly you may end up with some usable spare parts. Same for the carbs, knowing what a carb rack brings when offered for sale they might be worth seeing what can be salvaged.

 

Some of the internal parts have value, possibly to you since your doing a build. The heads would possibly be salvageable and may serve on your new build depending on what you see when you mock-install the motor core into the frame. It sounds like fun, wish I could get my hands in there too haha.

[snyper316]

At the very least a full disassembly and inspection of all internal parts would be prudent before pouring any money in. Maybe you could peek into the block with a borescope and see if it's clean or sketchy. With that much water inside for who knows how long. if the planets are lined up correctly you may end up with some usable spare parts. Same for the carbs, knowing what a carb rack brings when offered for sale they might be worth seeing what can be salvaged.

 

Some of the internal parts have value, possibly to you since your doing a build. The heads would possibly be salvageable and may serve on your new build depending on what you see when you mock-install the motor core into the frame. It sounds like fun, wish I could get my hands in there too haha.

 

I have been watching a guy named Jonathon W on Youtube, he has got some pretty rusty looking motors going again! I think what I am gonna do is tear down the engine just to see what it looks like. But i am gonna throw in my used motor oil in it, and poor some in the intakes. so as to not let it rust up any worse then it already is, I think you can get a scope from Harbor Freight which I have a store here in Joplin!