Considering trading my '83 in on an '89 Pros and Cons?

[uhfradarwill]

What kind of mileage/fuel economy do you get from your '89?

 

Of course it depends on how hard you ride her but keeping her cruising at or near 4K RPMs generally give me around 33 MPG.

 

I spend most of my time in 4th gear.

 

Will

[BlueSky]

What kind of mileage/fuel economy do you get from your '89?

 

I regret to say that I've ridden my 89 only a few hundred miles and have not ridden it in several years. It got less than 30mpg when I checked it. But, something was wrong with the carbs because the idle mix screws had to be turned in leaning it out until they were one turn out. And it would start cold without the choke. I suspect the enrichment valves are leaking but I haven't pursued a fix. Now the fork seals are leaking and the speedometer was noisy the last time I rode it. Hopefully, I will get around to going through it soon. It's as perfect as they get for an 89 and deserves to be repaired and ridden. I just have to fix the typical issues to get it going again.

[BlueSky]

Night time photos are suspect. I would ask for some day time digital photos emailed to me so I could expand them and check the bike out really close up before I made the drive.

[bongobobny]

Running properly you should get around 40 mpg...

[luvmy40]

Night time photos are suspect. I would ask for some day time digital photos emailed to me so I could expand them and check the bike out really close up before I made the drive.

 

Half way is only about 1/2 hour to 45 min. depending on exactly where he is in Louisville. I'd waste that on a ride just to ride

[Chaharly]

IMHO, include on the cons:

1. Will need updated Progressive springs in forks if not done.

2. Will need diaphrams in carbs if not done and eventually need float valves.

3. Like you mentioned, if you are a long distance rider going thru multiple rear tires you spoon on yourself = the ease of removing furniture on the 83 to swap tires will be greatly missed.

 

Ya know,, thinking this thru,,, I think your onto a good move 40,, these 83's are getting older by the day and the concerns you share about the frame/2nd gear/stator and even the 83's plastic water pump impellar and electrical stuff are real.. Also considering how much easier it is to find parts for the multi year MK2's if you ever needed em while out CTFW, yeah,, I'd probably do it... And then I would pick up a cheap ratted out 83 with a decent back side set of glass and make a conversion on the MK2 back to the clamshells for ease and speed of tire swaps.. Besides,, I love the looks of the smaller bags but that's just me..

Only real con I see is you'll be riding a slower bike if you go from a MK1 to a MK2 (saw that comin didnt cha? )

 

You'd be surprised at how easy changing the rear tire on a MK2 is. Don't need to remove the bags or anything.

 

I was gonna tell ya LUV that the pictures on the CL post are 2 different bikes. Notice the paint scheme is different.

 

IMHO I think you're going to love the Radio, and especially the Cruise Control. I think the seats on the MK1s are more comfortable, but I've put tons of miles on the stock seat on my MK2. Its nice to have basically the same motor as the RSV so you know there will be parts for years to come. Really, really look the bike over, but I tell ya what I certainly don't miss my 83 Standard with nothing on it. I'd take my 88 Royale any day of the week. (PS We'd have twin bikes. Same color!)

[Chaharly]

Oh and @cowpuc. I would LOVE to run the 83 and 88 balls to the wall, side by side for awhile!

[cowpuc]

Oh and cowpuc. I would LOVE to run the 83 and 88 balls to the wall, side by side for awhile!

 

How you do dat tire swap without removing the bags Cha? Can you get the tire out from under it by laying it on its side or something?

RIGHT THERE WITH YA BROTHER ON RUNNING EM SIDE BY SIDE!!! Be really fun to chase em from Sturgis, around the Bad Lands loop and back to Sturgis neck n neck,, wind in our faces, tents flappin in the wind and HD's in our mirrors

 

Of course, a quick roll on thru the gears to actually see if a 1st Gen really is a mite faster would be in order too but that would secondary to CTFW across the backside of the Bad Lands IMHO

[Chaharly]

How you do dat tire swap without removing the bags Cha? Can you get the tire out from under it by laying it on its side or something?

RIGHT THERE WITH YA BROTHER ON RUNNING EM SIDE BY SIDE!!! Be really fun to chase em from Sturgis, around the Bad Lands loop and back to Sturgis neck n neck,, wind in our faces, tents flappin in the wind and HD's in our mirrors

 

Of course, a quick roll on thru the gears to actually see if a 1st Gen really is a mite faster would be in order too but that would secondary to CTFW across the backside of the Bad Lands IMHO

 

 

Right with ya there about runnin them in each gear at the same time just to see what the difference truly is! But youve really got me craving those South Dakota prairies! The 26th can't come soon enough.

 

Its real easy to change the back wheel with the bags on. Put the bike on the center stand and use a ratchet strap to fasten it forward to the crash bar. Make sure youre on fairly solid ground. Remove front brake calipers and front axle nut. This next part helps to have someone slide something under the motor when you remove the axle bolt and wheel but if youre quick you can do it by yourself by holding it up with your shoulder.

 

Then very gently set the bike on the front forks, preferably with something soft in between them, remove the left muffler and viola! Easy peasy everything is right there way up in the air to work with!

[videoarizona]

I have an 89....and it's a great scoot.

 

Differences you will note:

1: Heavier. So a bit slower than a MK1.

2: Brakes better. Not perfect, but better. I'm still linked and that works well for me. I still get good rear end stability when braking due to the way it's designed.

3: Electronic anti-dive. Works, just uses battery. It's interesting to sit at light at watch the battery meter go down a bit when you put/hold the brake on. Not an issue, just be aware that it's there...

4: Changing tires is easy if you kneel her on the front forks as said above. But I still take off the mufflers and bags as it's still far easier to get to the axle nut. I loosen the nut BEFORE I put her up on stand and down onto the forks....

 

 

As far as MPG's. That's really dependant upon wind, speed, etc. I've seen 33 mpg's to 45 mpg's. Current trip yesterday...155 miles in 4th gear most of the way at 60 - 65mph on 2 lanes...got 39mpg. That was a full tank.....not into reserve yet. (155 miles, 3.92 gallons...39.54 mpg)

The secret to mpg's is similar to the MK1's. Cleaned plugs or new, no brake drag, easy on throttle (resist twisting that thing!) I love the gear ratios on the MK2. I think they are perfect for a sport touring bike. 75 mph is around 4200 rpm and she will climb hills like that, get good mileage and is smooth as silk. 2nd gear is the fun gear....and you can hit 100 in 4th. Scary too!

 

Check rear end by driving...slight acceleration then quick off. Should be minimum whine. Mine still does that, but it was worse when I got it. Found the rear end of the drive shaft was connected to the rear gear to the pumpkin which was broken. The bolt holding the gear was broken. Kevin C. figured it out from the pics I posted. Similar situation in front end of drive shaft at the Ujoint. The bolt can break. Don't know if it's a bad heat treatment when forged?? Who knows, but they can break. it's not a driveability issue as the driveshaft is driven by the splines. But it's whiny as all get out if one or both are broken. I just bought a used rear end and slapped it in. Done.

 

Check forks. Bouncy...progressives.

Check all the gear on board, CLASS should pump and hold air, radio and tape deck should work, CB should work. Check the coolant reseavor (sp?) for clear clean coolant. OH...when you go to lift the lid for the coolant bottle, turn on the CLASS system (Key on acc position) and watch the display. If it flickers, you will have to solder the connections on the board at some point. E4 error. Easy peasy to do. The lifting of the lid flexes the connections of the white CLASS connector under there.

 

Mine is almost all original. I did replace the rear caliper with a blue dot one. Old one finally froze up due to age and my bad maintenance. I kept forgetting it was there. My bad.

Brake lines are still original. It works well and I know, should be replaced. I've had issues with cassette deck. I've worked on mine and have a couple of extras. The belts just don't hold up well with the heat and dryness around here. Sometimes, I'll push a cassette in and 5 minutes later it will start playing! I like cassettes in that I can make my own mixes. I've had plastic issues. Fixed most of them...maybe I'll get around to fixing rest....or not.

 

Check the trunk light. Make sure it turns on/off when the lid is raised/lowered. The little switch can get dirty or wires broken. Could drain battery. Tool kit should be in bottom of right saddlebag, strapped in.

 

Plastics look decent in pics, but verify the tabs are there by removing the fuel tank lid, and the 2 sides. You can see most of the system from there. Make sure the 2 phillips screws on the fuel fill lock are snug.

 

Anyway...you know the rest. Just some ideas.

I love my 89 but have to sell it soon. No time left with current set of toys to keep working on her. I've been slowly fixing things since I bought her...but now have to much to do and have run out of time to even ride her. Yesterdays ride was wonderful....but sad.

 

His price seems reasonable. If in decent shape. Let's face it, these are old scoots. There will be issues.

Good luck...let us know how it goes.

Edited May 19, 2019 by videoarizona
sp

[luvmy40]

So, the weekend was a bust. The '89 owner had to work and wound up working late Sunday so we did not meet up. I hope he hasn't changed his mind as I have gotten myself excited about the trade. I tend to do that and then get totally bummed if things don't work out.

[RDawson]

I keep seeing posts on the MK1 seats. I'm have an MK1 seat on my 86, they interchange. I put the OEM seat back on for long rides, it has a rest. Just take it off cause the cover is torn.

[cowpuc]

Right with ya there about runnin them in each gear at the same time just to see what the difference truly is! But youve really got me craving those South Dakota prairies! The 26th can't come soon enough.

 

Its real easy to change the back wheel with the bags on. Put the bike on the center stand and use a ratchet strap to fasten it forward to the crash bar. Make sure youre on fairly solid ground. Remove front brake calipers and front axle nut. This next part helps to have someone slide something under the motor when you remove the axle bolt and wheel but if youre quick you can do it by yourself by holding it up with your shoulder.

 

Then very gently set the bike on the front forks, preferably with something soft in between them, remove the left muffler and viola! Easy peasy everything is right there way up in the air to work with!

 

I have an 89....and it's a great scoot.

 

Differences you will note:

1: Heavier. So a bit slower than a MK1.

2: Brakes better. Not perfect, but better. I'm still linked and that works well for me. I still get good rear end stability when braking due to the way it's designed.

3: Electronic anti-dive. Works, just uses battery. It's interesting to sit at light at watch the battery meter go down a bit when you put/hold the brake on. Not an issue, just be aware that it's there...

4: Changing tires is easy if you kneel her on the front forks as said above. But I still take off the mufflers and bags as it's still far easier to get to the axle nut. I loosen the nut BEFORE I put her up on stand and down onto the forks....

 

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=116479

 

As far as MPG's. That's really dependant upon wind, speed, etc. I've seen 33 mpg's to 45 mpg's. Current trip yesterday...155 miles in 4th gear most of the way at 60 - 65mph on 2 lanes...got 39mpg. That was a full tank.....not into reserve yet. (155 miles, 3.92 gallons...39.54 mpg)

The secret to mpg's is similar to the MK1's. Cleaned plugs or new, no brake drag, easy on throttle (resist twisting that thing!) I love the gear ratios on the MK2. I think they are perfect for a sport touring bike. 75 mph is around 4200 rpm and she will climb hills like that, get good mileage and is smooth as silk. 2nd gear is the fun gear....and you can hit 100 in 4th. Scary too!

 

Check rear end by driving...slight acceleration then quick off. Should be minimum whine. Mine still does that, but it was worse when I got it. Found the rear end of the drive shaft was connected to the rear gear to the pumpkin which was broken. The bolt holding the gear was broken. Kevin C. figured it out from the pics I posted. Similar situation in front end of drive shaft at the Ujoint. The bolt can break. Don't know if it's a bad heat treatment when forged?? Who knows, but they can break. it's not a driveability issue as the driveshaft is driven by the splines. But it's whiny as all get out if one or both are broken. I just bought a used rear end and slapped it in. Done.

 

Check forks. Bouncy...progressives.

Check all the gear on board, CLASS should pump and hold air, radio and tape deck should work, CB should work. Check the coolant reseavor (sp?) for clear clean coolant. OH...when you go to lift the lid for the coolant bottle, turn on the CLASS system (Key on acc position) and watch the display. If it flickers, you will have to solder the connections on the board at some point. E4 error. Easy peasy to do. The lifting of the lid flexes the connections of the white CLASS connector under there.

 

Mine is almost all original. I did replace the rear caliper with a blue dot one. Old one finally froze up due to age and my bad maintenance. I kept forgetting it was there. My bad.

Brake lines are still original. It works well and I know, should be replaced. I've had issues with cassette deck. I've worked on mine and have a couple of extras. The belts just don't hold up well with the heat and dryness around here. Sometimes, I'll push a cassette in and 5 minutes later it will start playing! I like cassettes in that I can make my own mixes. I've had plastic issues. Fixed most of them...maybe I'll get around to fixing rest....or not.

 

Check the trunk light. Make sure it turns on/off when the lid is raised/lowered. The little switch can get dirty or wires broken. Could drain battery. Tool kit should be in bottom of right saddlebag, strapped in.

 

Plastics look decent in pics, but verify the tabs are there by removing the fuel tank lid, and the 2 sides. You can see most of the system from there. Make sure the 2 phillips screws on the fuel fill lock are snug.

 

Anyway...you know the rest. Just some ideas.

I love my 89 but have to sell it soon. No time left with current set of toys to keep working on her. I've been slowly fixing things since I bought her...but now have to much to do and have run out of time to even ride her. Yesterdays ride was wonderful....but sad.

 

His price seems reasonable. If in decent shape. Let's face it, these are old scoots. There will be issues.

Good luck...let us know how it goes.

 

I once explained to a friend about taking the front wheel off to raise the back of his scoot to work on its hiney and he somehow missed the point of securing the centerstand with a strap BEFORE proceeding with the project. As a result, the stand folded during the job and he ended up cracking a case half before the bike landed on its side.. If your following this thread and decide to use this method = PLEASE do as these two guru's suggest and get that strap on there pronto..

Good idea you two!! I can definitely see where this would be doable, even on the side of a highway where Murph had descriminately placed those tire poppin nails to bring the CTFW to a momentary hault!!

[luvmy40]

Well, it looks like the trade for the '89 is not going to happen.

 

I am, hopefully meeting up with the owner of an '86 to do some horse trading today. He want's a smaller bike and likes guns. I have a smaller bike('82 Yamaha Maxim 750) and more than a few guns. Sounds like a match made in Venture Heaven.

 

The maxim has been in storage for nearly 2 years. I remember it being much more shiny and clean than it actually is. Funny how the memory works, isn't it? I was thinking the Maxim's worth at about $800. Low mileage, runs good, has always been reliable, etc. Well, Sow I'm thinking $500-$600 is more realistic. she's seeping oil at the valve cover gaskets and after sitting so long, the carbs definitely need a good cleaning. She started right up and runs like a champ but I can't get the idle dialed in, even after a quick sync. The throttle hangs a bit on deceleration. Hang may not be the right word. The revs don't drop like a rock and the engine braking is not crisp. It's more a slow decline in rpms. It's not mechanical. The cable is free and the linkages snap back to idle position instantly. The CV slides are just sluggish. She rolls off idle and snaps your head back when you twist the wick though.

 

I think I have enough lead slinging bits to make the deal good for both of us. I sure hope he does his own work and likes the restore process like I do.

 

Hopefully Ill be posting pictures of my '86 Gen1 MK2 later today!

Edited May 25, 2019 by luvmy40

[BlueSky]

Something to think about is that it's a felony to sell a gun to a person who is a convicted felon. I would not sell a gun to someone I didn't know without going through a dealer who can make the call to check the guy's record.

[cowpuc]

Something to think about is that it's a felony to sell a gun to a person who is a convicted felon. I would not sell a gun to someone I didn't know without going through a dealer who can make the call to check the guy's record.

 

Here in Michigan it's a crime to privately sell/trade/give away a handgun without going thru the background registration process (very easy to do thru any FFL Gun shop/Pawn Shop and/or a local Sheriffs Office). In the case of a handgun an individual can buy/sell/trade person to person if the buyer has a purchase permit = this gives you the owner the legal right to transfer the shooter to his hand. Long guns do not fall into this category though and there is actually no process for doing so,, back ground checking on long guns only happens when buying new (from a dealer) or shipping thru a mail service,, in that case, it has to be shipped FFL to FFL and a background is done at that time. Thus leaving scads of unregistered, unaccounted for long guns tucked away in houses all over Michigan giving credence to the suggestion that only 12% of all Michigan homes are setting there with the inhabitants unable to protect themselves if that day should ever come = leaving it up to the bad guys - foreign or domestic - to figure out whether the Michigan home they are about to assault happens to be one of those 12%

[luvmy40]

Fortunately, Ohio hasn't completely trampled the Constitution into oblivion.

 

I would never sell or give a gun to anyone I wasn't sure about. I always ask if they are CCW holders and ask to see their license if they are. If not, and I don't get a bad vibe I just ask for an Ohio DL and have them sign a bill of sale stating they are not prohibited from owning a firearm.

 

All perfectly legal in Ohio.

 

And, BTW it is a felony to KNOWINGLY sell or provide a firearm to a felon or otherwise prohibited person.

[Patch]

I have an 89....and it's a great scoot.

 

 

Check rear end by driving...slight acceleration then quick off. Should be minimum whine. Mine still does that, but it was worse when I got it. Found the rear end of the drive shaft was connected to the rear gear to the pumpkin which was broken. The bolt holding the gear was broken. Kevin C. figured it out from the pics I posted. Similar situation in front end of drive shaft at the Ujoint. The bolt can break. Don't know if it's a bad heat treatment when forged?? Who knows, but they can break. it's not a driveability issue as the driveshaft is driven by the splines. But it's whiny as all get out if one or both are broken. I just bought a used rear end and slapped it in. Done.

 

.

 

On this note I disagree; on my 91 this happened while I was on my return leg. At speed it is quite noticeable sounding like a groan which turned out to be chewing of the ring causes by the shifting pinion. While parking I experienced a long rollback then a sudden stop with notable noise, sometimes an inconsistent squeak was present at low revolutions.. As you know I still have a Cade, a sad truth in their history is lockup which will launch who ever is on the bike.

 

So my opinion is if you suspect a problem inspect it and to not ride her till the potential has been eliminated.