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Posted

Run a few tankfuls with a can of Seafoam in each tank, that stuff does a fairly decent job on blowing out the carbon.

 

There is an old school trick for cars that have a carbon buildup, and may work on a motorcycle as well, but do AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! At high idle, use an eyedropper and slowly drip plain old distilled water through the carbs. The water sort of literally explodes the carbon off when it gets compressed. The water atomizes and bounces around knocking the carbon off. Once again, this was used on old cars that had a lot of carbon buildup and if it killed them it didn't matter because the car was old and high mileage anyways but proved very effective in getting some more life out of an otherwise tired old engine...

Posted

There is an old school trick for cars that have a carbon buildup, and may work on a motorcycle as well, but do AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! At high idle, use an eyedropper and slowly drip plain old distilled water through the carbs. The water sort of literally explodes the carbon off when it gets compressed. The water atomizes and bounces around knocking the carbon off. Once again, this was used on old cars that had a lot of carbon buildup and if it killed them it didn't matter because the car was old and high mileage anyways but proved very effective in getting some more life out of an otherwise tired old engine...

 

Did that with a buddy in the early '70's. We didn't suspect carbon- just wanted to dump some water in to see what would happen. We poured tap water out of a Coke bottle into the carb until the exhaust manifolds glowed bright orange! There couldn't have been a flake of carbon in that small block chevy when we finished!

Posted
The carbs were actually never gone into, in 20 years of the bike. The guy who sold it to me, it would seem, basically cleaned them enough to get it started. (spray can). and then lied all the way to the bank.

I'm ordering a fresh set from The Diamondcut guy and going to put those on.

Correct. the rear cylinders had a lot of carbon buildup. Specifically the left rear. Changing plugs and carbs and going to see how it performs from there. Riding like a scalded dog to see if I can clean them out some, then another compression test.

 

also going to point out there was a good bit of fuel in the oil, so I'm thinking/hoping/praying thatthe cylinder that was causing the hot pipe wasn't lubricated correctly. Guess we'll see.

 

"It had great compression btw. That in and of its self means nothing, you cannot have great compression if your valves are not seating!

Posting your results would have provided the answers to what is going on and how to correct it, additional carbon ware.

 

Think about it: you maybe running your rings out of round, and you may be scoring the wall (s) with carbon every cycle; all on an engine that is almost brand spanking new.

I have to ask how much water should the OP be using per cycle per cylinder? Water form of delivery system is a COKE BOTTLE on a direct mounted carb? You do realize there is NO HOT PLENUM between the intake and the top of the piston right? When that LIQUID gets between the piston and the combustion chamber it spells foolish game over permanently.

Posted

Interesting applicable tests, this guys testing of seafoam shows results similar to that of my own in working on carbs. For head/valve cleaning thru injection - Hyundia/Kia has some new product that I will be checking out in the future and am curious to see its result. Our Ioniq has an Atkinson engine and I have been using Top Tier fuel (most name brand fuels have that rating) for exactly the reason of keeping carbon build on valves low. I plan on scoping Troopers valve train at 100k and testing the new Hyundia cleaner at that time.

By the way, many years ago I posted about purchasing CHEAP Chinese made bore scopes with links to the same. Have been successfully using my 11 dollar unit that I purchased at that time exactly like the one this guy uses in vid #2 = still working awesome!! IMHO, there should be one in every toolbox = the uses are endless!! If you grab one, also IMHO, getting the +10 foot of lead will work in your advantage,, IMHO of course!

Here's the test vids of Seafoam, Water and ATF, pretty interesting. Notice the borescope in vid two = WAYYY cool and WAYYY inexpensive!!

 

 

 

Posted
also going to point out there was a good bit of fuel in the oil, so I'm thinking/hoping/praying thatthe cylinder that was causing the hot pipe wasn't lubricated correctly. Guess we'll see.

 

"It had great compression btw. That in and of its self means nothing, you cannot have great compression if your valves are not seating!

Posting your results would have provided the answers to what is going on and how to correct it, additional carbon ware.

 

Think about it: you maybe running your rings out of round, and you may be scoring the wall (s) with carbon every cycle; all on an engine that is almost brand spanking new.

I have to ask how much water should the OP be using per cycle per cylinder? Water form of delivery system is a COKE BOTTLE on a direct mounted carb? You do realize there is NO HOT PLENUM between the intake and the top of the piston right? When that LIQUID gets between the piston and the combustion chamber it spells foolish game over permanently.

 

Two completely different cylinders. I've had Mike Eyekamp(sp?) Go over everything with me.

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