Overheating

[twiss]

Guday all,

Can someone please shed some light on this issue?

I put K&N filters, iridium plugs and Barons slash cut pipes on my 2004 RSV. I then had it re-jetted and Dyno'd.

Since this work has been done, every now and again (Genrally after about twenty to thirty km's) the red "overheating" lamp comes on. It stays on and then goes out after about fourty seconds. I can't seem to pinpoint any pattern to this apart from the fact that I'm normally going up and down the gearbox.

All the "experts" I've talked to say that it's everything from a faulty thermostat to lack of or to much back pressure in the pipes.

Can anyone help?

[Guest tx2sturgis]

Is it possible that during all the work being done, that possibly the fan and/or thermostat wiring became disconnected? It sounds more like the fan is not coming on when it should.

 

Its doubtful that the engine horsepower or tuning could be so bad with this combination that the engine would overheat. Especially since you have not mentioned that the engine seemed too hot, which should be noticeable.

 

Others may have better ideas about this, but I would check the thermostat, engine fan, and also, the coolant level. When the light comes on, stop as quickly as is safe and look to see if the fan is actually running...sometimes you cant hear it.

 

Let us know what you find.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Squeeze]

Buy or borrow a digital Temperature Guage, mout the Sensor at the HOse whoch comes out at the rear Cylinder Head or where the Stock Sensor mounts in the front Area, velcro the Guage to the Bike and go on a test ride.

[Freebird]

If the temp sensor and everything is working properly and if the fan is coming on when it should then it sure sounds like you are running VERY lean and causing the engine to overheat. If that is the case, then you really need to get it corrected ASAP.

[Guest tx2sturgis]

Freebird, is it possible that the engine can run so lean that it overheats, and yet the rider notices no problems with driveablity, or excessive heat from the engine?

 

In my experience, if a bike is running that lean, it will have drivablity issues, such as poor acceleration, stalling, stumbling, and a very flat spot somewhere in the power curve, noticeable during throttle openings. Maybe he should do the 'sparkplug check' on that bike...not easy I know.

 

I'm curious, I ordered a set of Bubs, and of course, I will be watching for any symptoms of lean running. From what I've seen on this website...it SHOULD be OK.

 

 

 

 

[SaltyDawg]

If the temp sensor and everything is working properly and if the fan is coming on when it should then it sure sounds like you are running VERY lean and causing the engine to overheat. If that is the case, then you really need to get it corrected ASAP.

 

That was the first thing I though of too.

[Freebird]

Yes, I think it is possible that it will run OK but I do think that you should notice the excess heat. I wouldn't worry about the Bubs. The only thing done in this case that would concern me is the re-jetting of the carbs. Re-jetting is not an exact science and often takes come experimenting and testing to get exactly right. I personally don't think that re-jetting is at all necessary when changing mufflers or air filters on these bikes and many of us here have done both with no problems with the factory jets.

[flb_78]

Silly question, but I have to ask.

 

Did you check the coolant level in the radiator itself and not just in the plastic tank?

 

I have to agree that if it was running that lean, that the bike would not run properly.

[Condor]

Here's another spin on the red light problem. What was the outside temp when you were riding. We're just getting into spring, and down under it might be late summer...??? I know mine will run high on the guage when it's 90+ degs. out.. Just a thought??

[GeorgeS]

Simply let the bike " Idle " and see if the Fan Actually Runs.

 

With engine at operating temp, park it, and wait for the fan to come on.

 

If it does not, then there is a problem, with the temp sensor, or the wiring to the temp sensor, or the wireing to the fan motor.

I never heard of a Fan actually failing, possible, but not likley.

[flb_78]

Simply let the bike " Idle " and see if the Fan Actually Runs.

 

With engine at operating temp, park it, and wait for the fan to come on.

 

If it does not, then there is a problem, with the temp sensor, or the wiring to the temp sensor, or the wireing to the fan motor.

I never heard of a Fan actually failing, possible, but not likley.

 

Come to think of it, Ive never even heard my fan come on!!

[Vance]

I've never heard my fan come on either, but it does. It is just so quiet that I don't hear it over the engine.

[Cougar]

I just have been through changing out 2 radiators in the

past two years. trust me the FAN at idle WILL come on

after it idles for about 12 Min's or less. with an outside

temp of 50 or more.. the fill cap for your RAD is under

the tank... (the upper right side)

the over flow is tank is under the right

cover on the bike. (DO NOT FILL THERE)

 

There are plug-in's for your temp and fan

under the lower right fairing..

Jeff

[James Ardrey]

Yes, I think it is possible that it will run OK but I do think that you should notice the excess heat. I wouldn't worry about the Bubs. The only thing done in this case that would concern me is the re-jetting of the carbs. Re-jetting is not an exact science and often takes come experimenting and testing to get exactly right. I personally don't think that re-jetting is at all necessary when changing mufflers or air filters on these bikes and many of us here have done both with no problems with the factory jets.

I agree completely. I have the Bubs and K&N filters and no jettingwas required or recommended. My bike runs just fine. I also share the same concerns with the rejetting. These bikes will continue to run fairly well with the carbs being out of sync and may not be too noticeable running too lean from rejetting. If it is running lean to cause overheating problems it could severely damage the valves and or cylinder heads.

[twiss]

Hi Guys,

Many thanks for your replies.

On checking the actual radiator level (ThanksForrest, it wasn't a stupid question), I found that it was nearly empty.

I filled the radiator up and found that it did in fact have a leak..........

It's now booked into my dealer to get it sorted.

Thanks again......Fantastic group.

[dnBunnie]

Hi Freebird,

 

I think I'm experiencing the same problem. Which is curious sincs this is already me 2nd RSV and drove appr. 100.000miles with a RSV.

But since a couple of days the red light goes on when I'm cruising with low but reasonable engine tours. I think it's about 2.500-3.000. Even when I let the engine to run idle.

 

When you say to get it corrected, what did you mean exactly, the riding style or something with the bike?

 

grtz dnBunnie

99RSV

 

 

 

If the temp sensor and everything is working properly and if the fan is coming on when it should then it sure sounds like you are running VERY lean and causing the engine to overheat. If that is the case, then you really need to get it corrected ASAP.

[Freebird]

Hi Guys,

Many thanks for your replies.

On checking the actual radiator level (ThanksForrest, it wasn't a stupid question), I found that it was nearly empty.

I filled the radiator up and found that it did in fact have a leak..........

It's now booked into my dealer to get it sorted.

Thanks again......Fantastic group.

 

I was actually just replying with a possible cause. I've never experienced this problem on my own bike. Above I've quoted what this member actually found on his bike.

[dnBunnie]

Has someone else an idea/link/address?

 

 

Hi Freebird,

 

I think I'm experiencing the same problem. Which is curious sincs this is already me 2nd RSV and drove appr. 100.000miles with a RSV.

But since a couple of days the red light goes on when I'm cruising with low but reasonable engine tours. I think it's about 2.500-3.000. Even when I let the engine to run idle.

 

When you say to get it corrected, what did you mean exactly, the riding style or something with the bike?

 

grtz dnBunnie

99RSV

[twiss]

Hi Guys,

Firstly thanks for everyone's input.

A short recap. My 2004 RSV was overheating, :scorched:the red light was coming on, then going off, and the fluid in the expansion tank was being used. There was no decrease in the performance. I thought I had a radiator leak. Radiator came off, sent for fixing. It was checked and found to be OK. Radiator went back on. Still overheating....New radiator cap purchased (How can thay justify that price)? Still overheating. Still using expansion tank fluid.

I then decided to look at it as logicaly as I could. I ran the bike, The overheating light came on and stayed on. At this point the fan was not working and the radiator was cold. I therefore assumed that the fan wasn't on because the radiator was cool. If the radiator was cool and the engine was hot.......The fluid in the engine (coolant) wasn't circulating. The thermostat? :starz:If the thermostat was not working it couldn't let the hot coolant into the radiator to be cooled. I then stripped the bike down as per the manual in order to get to the thermostat. Coolant drained etc, etc, When I could see the thermostat but could not get the hoses off as the jubilee clips were in an ungettable at angle I decided to ring my dealer. Who incidentaly agreed about my therostat theory.

I re-assembled the Bike re-filled with coolant and booked it into the garage.

The day (Yesterday) I took the bike into the garage I noticed (from cold) that there was a dirty fluid (not oil) dripping from the ride side muffler where it joins the exhaust. It was also quite difficult to start, (is has been getting harder to start of late). On arrival at the garage 40kms away I spoke to my mechnic and explained about the fluid. He then pointed out the white smoke that was coming from the right side muffler!!!!! Which I hadn't noticed. (and I knew that a new pope was not needed)!

Conclusion: The coolant was being burnt off. THE HEAD GASKET HAD A LEAK!!!

The reason that the radiator had been cool the time I checked it was there would have been no coolant in the radiator and the radiator was being cooled by the airflow. The fan wasn't on becuse the radiator wasn't hot. The fluid in the expansion tank had been used in the natuaral course of things.

I am now awaiting the garage to ring me and tell me that everything is OK and the head gasket has been replaced.

Moral off the story: It's always good to look forward, but occassional glance behind and see what's happened. There's no white smoke without a blown gasket.

 

Once again OUTSTANDING group.

Dave.

[dnBunnie]

Good for you Dave to have finally found the problem.

I think in my case it is the thermostat, since it don't use coolant.

 

I haven't looked in to it yet, due to time issues. But is there some kind of pump in the cooling system? And is that mechanical or electrical drivven?

 

Could be a cause too, because the red light goes on when cruising with low revolutions per minute.

 

I really apreciate it when you, not only Dave, have any idea or a likely, simpler, solution.

[flb_78]

Are you checking the coolant level in the plastic tank under the seat or in the radiator under the tank? I don't trust the plastic tanks. You have to check it in the radiator itself which means the tank has to come off.

 

Yes there is a mechanical driven water pump. It is on the right side of the engine under a chrome cover.

 

http://www.cycleoneoff.com/100_0816venture_set_up.jpg

[dnBunnie]

Sorry for this late reaction, but meanwhile the bike is repaired.

 

it was indeed the thermostat which would not go open anymore. Everything was fine after replacement. Costs appr. € 30.00