Can I get a little Stator and R and R help?

[Chaharly]

Hey guys. I'm in the middlle of installing Rick's Stator and it doesn't have the plug attatched to the wires. There are 3 wires, all yellow that come out of the stator and go into the same colored wires on the R & R. Are they interchangeable? Does it matter which one goes where? Also on the R and R there are 2 green and two red wires and the old one had 2 red and 2 black. Can i switch the two reds and blacks around, or do they ahve to go to the exact same slot. Any help would be VERY much appreciated

[djh3]

You may have to e-mail them to get some clarification. But use to be green = earth (ground) On the stater I would trace the wires from the old one and see if you can match them to the new one.

[Chaharly]

Yeah I'm gonna call ricks first thing tomorrow and get ahold of boss bearings about the regulator. I wonder if anyone's done the ricks stator upgrade

[cowpuc]

Yep,, I'd advise you to call Rick's and not listen to the advice that follows Cha but I am still gonna give ya my opinion cause I love ya and I LOVE chattin scoots. IMHO, the stator is a 3 phase stator no matter which vendor you buy from. The stock OEM stators on the MK1 1st Gens came with 3 white wires as stator output wires, that said, I would treat the three yellow wires from the stator in the same way as the OEM white wires. You could take an ohm meter and check your ol buddies advice by doing a normal stator wire ohm check = set your meter to 2k ohms or there abouts, attach one lead to a yellow and the other lead to another yellow and get a resistance reading. Now jumper to the other yellow with the other lead = should ohm out the same as the first. Jump from one set to the other testing all against each other = should all be pretty close to same resistance. Now check each yellow to ground = should show open. This clearly verifys stator is good and should also make it clear in your mind that it makes no difference which yellow goes where, just attach one to the terminal in place of an existing stator wire at the terminal. On the Rectifier, I would only be guessing but my gues s is they are gonna tell you Red to Red making no difference which one gets to which red terminal and Green to Black, same thing as the reds = makes no difference.. Look carefully at the wires though and make sure there is not a real fine line of additional color coding on them to specify its purpose...

Now call those guys and see how close your ol lop eared VR riding varmint brother was on this one and PLEASE let me know

[Chaharly]

Yep,, I'd advise you to call Rick's and not listen to the advice that follows Cha but I am still gonna give ya my opinion cause I love ya and I LOVE chattin scoots. IMHO, the stator is a 3 phase stator no matter which vendor you buy from. The stock OEM stators on the MK1 1st Gens came with 3 white wires as stator output wires, that said, I would treat the three yellow wires from the stator in the same way as the OEM white wires. You could take an ohm meter and check your ol buddies advice by doing a normal stator wire ohm check = set your meter to 2k ohms or there abouts, attach one lead to a yellow and the other lead to another yellow and get a resistance reading. Now jumper to the other yellow with the other lead = should ohm out the same as the first. Jump from one set to the other testing all against each other = should all be pretty close to same resistance. Now check each yellow to ground = should show open. This clearly verifys stator is good and should also make it clear in your mind that it makes no difference which yellow goes where, just attach one to the terminal in place of an existing stator wire at the terminal. On the Rectifier, I would only be guessing but my gues s is they are gonna tell you Red to Red making no difference which one gets to which red terminal and Green to Black, same thing as the reds = makes no difference.. Look carefully at the wires though and make sure there is not a real fine line of additional color coding on them to specify its purpose...

Now call those guys and see how close your ol lop eared VR riding varmint brother was on this one and PLEASE let me know

 

 

Awesome thanks so much! I'll check resistances across the 3 wires from the stator tomorrow to satiate my curiosity. Everything else went real smooth. It only took a few minutes to get the rotor off. I'd tighten the puller then whack the puller on its bolt. Figured the shock would be going through the crankshaft instead of the rotor. I'll look at the R&R tomorrow to see if the color codes on the wires are different but I'm pretty sure they're the same as are the ones on the bike. I'm going to solder the new Regulator in to the old one's plug and I'll have to drill a hole to mount the regulator. I found that E-6000 that you were talking about at the Dollar Store for about 4 bucks and yeah I have to say that I'll be using that on just about everything now. I'll do a write up over everything I've done to the bike when I finally get her all buttoned back up!

[Marcarl]

In my very humble thoughts: all 3 wires from the stator, the yellow ones go to the 3 whites on the bike, don't no matter which is which because all 3 come from a third of the stator and those thirds are not designated or numbers. The green ones are ground and the reds are power, again, it don't matter, for power is power and ground is ground. I would get rid of that 3wire connector though and solder wire to wire, then wrap with electrical tape and shrink tubing. There's lots of volts there when she running.

[bongobobny]

Yup, stator wires don't matter! As far as the red and green, I'm not 100% but I'm pretty much in agreement with everybody else, red is hot and green is ground and it probably doesn't matter...

[cowpuc]

Awesome thanks so much! I'll check resistances across the 3 wires from the stator tomorrow to satiate my curiosity. Everything else went real smooth. It only took a few minutes to get the rotor off. I'd tighten the puller then whack the puller on its bolt. Figured the shock would be going through the crankshaft instead of the rotor. I'll look at the R&R tomorrow to see if the color codes on the wires are different but I'm pretty sure they're the same as are the ones on the bike. I'm going to solder the new Regulator in to the old one's plug and I'll have to drill a hole to mount the regulator. I found that E-6000 that you were talking about at the Dollar Store for about 4 bucks and yeah I have to say that I'll be using that on just about everything now. I'll do a write up over everything I've done to the bike when I finally get her all buttoned back up!

 

Back at cha Cha - you are more than welcome brother glad to help! Indeed that E-6000 is some pretty cool stuff, glad you tried it and found it to be just as entertaining and useful as it has been around this joint!! Another really good product that I have used for many years is Seal-All = comes in a Yellow tube and available every where too. It doesnt stay soft and pliable bike E-6000 but it is DEFINITELY awesome patching and sealing stuff. I used it to patch a 2 inch hole in tranny case on one of my race bikes that had its chain come off during a weekend Enduro and that went thru the case and left a whole in the tranny big enough I could have almost swapped out 1st gear without opening the case. I cleaned the spot up real well with sand paper and brake cleaner, built a patch out of gum wrappers and Seal All, stuck the patch on in the evening and was back to racing the next day!!! Sold the bike a year later and that patch was still intact and working fine.. It ugly but the guy that bought the bike was VERY impressed with how the seal all had held up!! I also use to line rusty tanks with seal all - just buy several tubes, cut it with a quart of acetone to thin the seal all, shake nut and bolts in the tank to knock out the big stuff, rinse the tank with acetone and dump in the Seal All mix.. Didnt work as well as Red Kote but, IMHO worked better then the Cream Kits that were available back in the day..

Got me again talkin bikes Cha

[Flyinfool]

As everyone else said, stator wires don't matter, but lose the connector and solder them. It is best to use adhesive lined shrink tubing over the solder joints. regular shrink tubing is not completely waterproof.

 

Same on the other end, red to red, green to black.

[Karaboo]

Don't forget to clean the joints after soldering. That flux residue is nasty.

 

Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk

[Chaharly]

Well I buttoned everything back up yesterday. Wired the Stator directly into the R&R but kept the plug for the R&R to the rest of the bike. So about 18 hours later I called dad to go out and run it for about 20 minutes because I was terrified those wire plugs were gonna leak. He said he run it for 20 minutes with no oil on the floor so it must be successful! Thanks guys!!

[bongobobny]

I ass-u-me you are talking about the stator wires going through that rubber plug thingie. They can leak but only seepage as there is no real pressure where the stator goes, just oil being "slung" over the stator. Oil can also leak around the edge of the rubber plug. What I do is make sure the plug and the mating edges are absolutely clean and then use a thin coat of silicone sealer, and do the same with the wires where they go through...

[Chaharly]

Yup that's what i did. Cleaned em up and RTVd the crap outa them

[Rafterd]

The three yellow stator wires don’t matter, I would not change the Regulator/ Rectifier wires.

[cowpuc]

Yup that's what i did. Cleaned em up and RTVd the crap outa them

 

Shoulda used that E-6000 sittin in the top of your tool box right over there

[Chaharly]

Shoulda used that E-6000 sittin in the top of your tool box right over there

 

Nope sorry! I liked that stuff so much there aint none left!!