A couple of air box question

[Chaharly]

Hey guys, got this funny hole in my air box... not supposed to be there right??

 

Also I couldn't help turning the tubes that hook the box to the car and it looks like they've got some silicone in there to help them seal? Should I get some black RTV, pull the tubes out and then silicone them when I put them back in? Luckily none of them are cracked or anything and I'd prefer not to pull them out if I can help it... What do you guys think?

 

 

[MiCarl]

Ignore the silicone. It wasn't there from the factory. Some shade tree hack thought it needed it.

 

Close off the hole. Duct tape will probably do the trick.

[Chaharly]

Ignore the silicone. It wasn't there from the factory. Some shade tree hack thought it needed it.

 

Close off the hole. Duct tape will probably do the trick.

 

Thanks MiCarl!

 

Glad I don't have to pull them out!

[Prairiehammer]

Ignore the silicone. It wasn't there from the factory. Some shade tree hack thought it needed it.

 

Close off the hole. Duct tape will probably do the trick.

 

Actually, the sealant around the air box boots was a genuine authorized Yamaha fix for the 1983. On subsequent models, the factory applied that sealant. It is spelled out in this Tech Bulletin:

M84-017 Air Box Oil Leakage .pdf

[MiCarl]

Actually, the sealant around the air box boots was a genuine authorized Yamaha fix for the 1983. On subsequent models, the factory applied that sealant. It is spelled out in this Tech Bulletin:

 

Damn!

 

I thought I was going to get through this week without learning anything.

[Marcarl]

Damn!

 

I thought I was going to get through this week without learning anything.

 

The week ain't over yet, and I learned something as well.

[cowpuc]

Hey guys, got this funny hole in my air box... not supposed to be there right?? https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=115752

 

Also I couldn't help turning the tubes that hook the box to the car and it looks like they've got some silicone in there to help them seal? Should I get some black RTV, pull the tubes out and then silicone them when I put them back in? Luckily none of them are cracked or anything and I'd prefer not to pull them out if I can help it... What do you guys think?

 

 

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=115751

 

Probably only cause I run these poor scoots hard and into the ground @Chaharly but I can usually tell if my 1st Gens have lost that RTV seal on the rubber tubes on the bottom of the air box cause I start getting oil on the jugs from breather seepage coming out of the air box. I have tried several forms of sealant for a reseal and gotta say I have found E6000 (cheap too, especially if ya catch it at a Dollar Store) to work the best of the best! Just pull the tubes, clean everything real well with either brake or carb cleaner = clean till its is CLEAN.. Coat the groove with E6000, let it dry before using the air box.

Definitely plug that hole and I would use E6000 for that too = has worked AWESOME in my squished saddlebag repair for years and is still pliable as shown in the video below!! Stuff is amazing!!

[Chaharly]

Actually, the sealant around the air box boots was a genuine authorized Yamaha fix for the 1983. On subsequent models, the factory applied that sealant. It is spelled out in this Tech Bulletin:

 

Probably only cause I run these poor scoots hard and into the ground Chaharly but I can usually tell if my 1st Gens have lost that RTV seal on the rubber tubes on the bottom of the air box cause I start getting oil on the jugs from breather seepage coming out of the air box. I have tried several forms of sealant for a reseal and gotta say I have found E6000 (cheap too, especially if ya catch it at a Dollar Store) to work the best of the best! Just pull the tubes, clean everything real well with either brake or carb cleaner = clean till its is CLEAN.. Coat the groove with E6000, let it dry before using the air box.

Definitely plug that hole and I would use E6000 for that too = has worked AWESOME in my squished saddlebag repair for years and is still pliable as shown in the video below!! Stuff is amazing!!

@Prairiehammer Gotcha! Thanks for that! Mines already got the tee fitting and all that, so now I guess I'll be pulling the air box again to re-seal everything.

@cowpuc that E6000 looks like some super high quality stuff. Did you ever get a chance to test that diaphragm out?

[cowpuc]

Prairiehammer Gotcha! Thanks for that! Mines already got the tee fitting and all that, so now I guess I'll be pulling the air box again to re-seal everything.

cowpuc that E6000 looks like some super high quality stuff. Did you ever get a chance to test that diaphragm out?

 

 

Indeed Cha,, that Kevin The PrairieHammer is one super duper top notched Venture guru,, best of the best IMHO!! I am running two e6000 diaphrams at the time! This will be season number two on em and last I checked = PERFECT!! I used YamaBond number 5 for many years (have never bought a new set of Diaphrams - always just did the YamaBond coating routine) and gotta say,, IMHO the e6000 is far superior. Wayyy easier to find too if ya ever need to do a patch (not just on Diaphrams either - I had to roll one of 1st Gens all the over on the side of mountain in Utah to upright it and crushed one of my saddlebags in the process = that e6000, as shown in the vid, did a fantastic job of plugging a 2x4 in hole,, along with tie wraps of course) while out CTFW. I actually found the stuff at a Dollar Store for a buck a tube! Worth a try Cha,, definitely worth a try!

[Chaharly]

Indeed Cha,, that Kevin The PrairieHammer is one super duper top notched Venture guru,, best of the best IMHO!! I am running two e6000 diaphrams at the time! This will be season number two on em and last I checked = PERFECT!! I used YamaBond number 5 for many years (have never bought a new set of Diaphrams - always just did the YamaBond coating routine) and gotta say,, IMHO the e6000 is far superior. Wayyy easier to find too if ya ever need to do a patch (not just on Diaphrams either - I had to roll one of 1st Gens all the over on the side of mountain in Utah to upright it and crushed one of my saddlebags in the process = that e6000, as shown in the vid, did a fantastic job of plugging a 2x4 in hole,, along with tie wraps of course) while out CTFW. I actually found the stuff at a Dollar Store for a buck a tube! Worth a try Cha,, definitely worth a try!

 

 

I always wondered if you could roll one of these up off the ground! In your vid you also describe worm emulsion tubes and I've seen a few of you guys shim your main needles 60thou of an inch. Whats the advantage to doing this?

[cowpuc]

I always wondered if you could roll one of these up off the ground! In your vid you also describe worm emulsion tubes and I've seen a few of you guys shim your main needles 60thou of an inch. Whats the advantage to doing this?

 

Most carbed scoots have some form of slide in them with a metering rod sticking out the bottom of it. That metering rods control the fuel flow coming out of the bowl, thru the main jet and into the emusion tube for atomization. Most bikes (IMHO) also have a metering rod that is notched for adjustability with a clip holding e metering rod in position - the adjustability is for fine tuning the fuel/air mix right off idle when the metering rod is lifted up out of the main jet. That metering rod is tapered so the more ya wick er up on the throttle, the further open the main is. The emulsion tube that the metering rod slides in and out of is made of brass and (at least this is my theroy), because on the Venture the slides are horizontal, the emulsion tubes can oblong/wear and allow more fuel to be pulled in thru the main and end up running fat and reducing MPG. Our V-4's have a non adjustable metering rod in them so what some of us shim the metering rod using nylon washers to drop the rods until I liked how it ran. I took my verniers and an old metering rod from a dirt bike and measured the distances from notch to notch to get an idea of how far really smart people who design this stuff thought it would take to get some change in fuel flow. I then went to ACE Hardware and dug around and found some nylon washers that were 10 thousandths (.010) thick and the right O.D./I.D.. I then used them as shims to drop the rods one "notch" of distance worth at a time till I got my good crisp throttle response back, gained over 10 MPG on the deal too.. Anyone reading this and thinking of playing with this stuff should be made aware that one of our members, Skydoc I believe, sells "kits" for doing what I am describing.. If you dont want to go thru the hassle of chasing down nylon washers like I did ya might wanna check with the Doc..

[Chaharly]

So by shimming it you're effectively moving the needle further into the emulsion tube to counter the excess fuel coming through