please help, what would you do?

[made2care]

Why do not want to run the stock setup?

Excessive oil will simply return to the crankcase, with no visible oil in a properly set-up breather system.

 

From what i have read, the oil will still contaminate the airbox filter, this is why some have gone with the mod.

 

would this work? https://cdn.thumpertalk.com/uploads/monthly_11_2015/post-421708-0-65566300-1448245554.jpg

[made2care]

Okay, here is what i'm going to try first. I will snake a line to rear with small filter on end, if this creates too much of an oily mess then i will go back to stock mod with t fitting.

[made2care]

Pictures restored.

 

any chance i can get these pics restored: the first post on this link: https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?78228-Crankcase-Vent-Tube

[Freebird]

Restored.

[made2care]

Well, walked into garage yesterday morning and smelled gas fumes. stream of gas under bike coming from some portion of the tank. I pulled the sub frame yesterday and will remove tank this weekend. I will probably put RED KOTE tank liner in to fix this once and for all! I just left all the parts on the sub frame and it slipped off nicely all in one piece.

Will keep you updated!

[BlueSky]

You will be the venture rider site expert by next summer! Riding one of these old bikes requires you to become an expert I suppose. Keep on keeping on!

[made2care]

You will be the venture rider site expert by next summer! Riding one of these old bikes requires you to become an expert I suppose. Keep on keeping on!

 

i will say this, starting from scratch gave me the "know how" or insight to some areas of this bike. I had the sub frame and attached parts off in 5 min, then the tank is exposed and simply lifts off after detaching hoses. I really should have put a tank liner in it since these old tanks are prone to pinholes and such. Oh well, I really enjoyed my last ride even though it was only around 50 miles but I like the way the bike handles and the fact that she is back on the road is really cool to me. I'm going to quickly but properly fix this tank so I can head back out again soon!!

[made2care]

Fuel tank is completed. I went ahead and used RED- KOTE liner , now just waiting to cure. I'm glad i went this route as the tank had some rust in it even after i cleaned it really well the first time round. Must have had some water in the fuel, anyway, I've used rk on many goldwing tanks and its always worked really well.

Later

[made2care]

Is there a REAR brake caliper that I can upgrade too. Maybe even one from a newer bike.

thanks

[BlueSky]

I think I remember reading some threads on using the R1/R6 front caliper on the rear of the 1st Gens but as I remember the bleed valve is in the wrong place so you have to remove it and turn it so the bleed valve is the highest point in order to bleed the line. Not sure if there is a difference in the MK 1 and MK 2. Skydoc may have one for you.

[OutKast]

Is there a REAR brake caliper that I can upgrade too. Maybe even one from a newer bike.

thanks

 

Have you unlinked the braking system? Or does the rear master cylinder still work one front brake?

 

If you unlink, free upgrade to the rear as the master cylinder is now powering only one caliper. Then some have gotten even more pressure by gutting the proportioning valve (cheap), or using a longer hose (Skydoc?) to completely eliminate the proportioning valve altogether (best way).

[made2care]

Have you unlinked the braking system? Or does the rear master cylinder still work one front brake?

 

If you unlink, free upgrade to the rear as the master cylinder is now powering only one caliper. Then some have gotten even more pressure by gutting the proportioning valve (cheap), or using a longer hose (Skydoc?) to completely eliminate the proportioning valve altogether (best way).

 

I have delinked the brakes already and put in a new master cylinder in the rear. My rear caliper is slightly dragging on the brake disk so was just wanting to put a new generic caliper on the back, otherwise i will have to rebuild the caliper and i don't want to do that. When the bike is on the center stand, i can turn the rear wheel but its not spinning freely, like i said it catches a little but not too much. is that normal?

[videoarizona]

I have delinked the brakes already and put in a new master cylinder in the rear. My rear caliper is slightly dragging on the brake disk so was just wanting to put a new generic caliper on the back, otherwise i will have to rebuild the caliper and i don't want to do that. When the bike is on the center stand, i can turn the rear wheel but its not spinning freely, like i said it catches a little but not too much. is that normal?

 

There should a touch of friction between brakes and rotors...but not enough to heat them up. Your concern needs to be if the pistons are dirty and/or the caliper is dirty then you could apply the brakes and the pistons don't return enough. That will cause heat build up, which in turn, will cause the brake fluid to get hot, which will expand and cause the pistons to put more pressure on the rotors to the point where you come to a dead stop...with the rear end a bit warm!

 

If you can brake repeatedly without the rear rotor getting to hot...you should be ok.

 

The solid drive train has far more friction....

[made2care]

It's been 2weeks since my mom's passing and I have decided to start work on my 1965 Honda. This is keeping my mind busy and helping with the grieving process.

[BlueSky]

It's been 2weeks since my mom's passing and I have decided to start work on my 1965 Honda. This is keeping my mind busy and helping with the grieving process.

 

That Honda should keep you busy for a couple days!

 

Yeah, from what I understand, when you release the brake lever/pedal, the MC piston is pulled back by the spring in the MC and brake fluid pressure is relieved back to the MC. Then the pad/caliper piston will back off a little from the rotor pushing it a tad due to irreguarities in the rotor. But, the pad might still contact the rotor just a little but not enough to matter. So, some contact is normal with a brake system.

[made2care]

Had a heck of a time starting up my bike today. Had battery on a trickle charger for a month now which I believe is last time I started it. I've also had it resting on the side stand . After I finally got her going , and warned up she didn't appear to run very well, maybe only on 3 . Anyway, maybe I should put her on the centerstand. I also left the petcock open while she was parked.

[BlueSky]

These carbs have such tiny orifices that they plug really easy. I'd put a can of Gumout with PEA in the gas and run it a few times to clear it up. I think the best procedure is to drain the carbs to keep the evaporating gas from leaving a residue. The tank should not gravity drain to the carbs if you leave the petcock in the ON position so the gas in the carbs dries up quickly.

[made2care]

These carbs have such tiny orifices that they plug really easy. I'd put a can of Gumout with PEA in the gas and run it a few times to clear it up. I think the best procedure is to drain the carbs to keep the evaporating gas from leaving a residue. The tank should not gravity drain to the carbs if you leave the petcock in the ON position so the gas in the carbs dries up quickly.

I always use Stabil in my gas which should prevent this.

[videoarizona]

The petcock being open won't drain any gas into the carbs as the tank is lower than the carbs....and the Stabil should have worked regardless.

 

I was thinking battery. I just don't like leaving a bike on a trickle charger at all. Maybe a good battery maintainer but not a trickle charger. That seems to destroy batteries after a while. Low voltage or a nearly dead (low cell) battery makes our scoots hard to start and then they don't so good until you've got some charge on. Although the stator should solve that problem one started. Never mind...I'm going back to my 1 st cup of Joe. Not awake yet!

[cowpuc]

Maddy,, I am sooo sorry to hear the news about your Mom!! Condolences my friend!! Concerning the starting of the scoot.. Right or wrong, this works well for me.. Always cycle the fuel pump on my 1st Gens (and R1 too = actually of them with a fuel pump) on and off with the kill switch before hitting the start button and rolling the engine up to fill the carbs with fuel. Just keep cycling it until you hear the pump come to a slow stop indicating the bowls are full of fuel.. Then you do hit the start button, battery isnt wasted while spinning the motor and trying to fill the bowls at the same time.. Close the choke, when it fires get it off choke as soon as the bike will take a little throttle/work the choke off as quickly as possible to avoid fouling plugs. I use no fuel additives over winter but choose to just start my bikes every couple months during winter and let them run to temp,, then throttle em up to run fuel thru the mains.. Have done this successfully thru the years with both bikes and snomobiles.. Works awesome in my case.. In my case, I have noticed that additives (especially Sea Foam) creates a "sheen" coating on the plugs which causes early fouling - especially hard on the small "D" plugs our V-4's use.. If I had your scoot I would toss in some new plugs and check the plug cap to wire connections.. By the way,, does your scoot have OEM wire wires for plug wires? I have also found that non wire wires on my 1st Gens is a major no no.. Hope this helps a little...

Puc

[made2care]

Maddy,, I am sooo sorry to hear the news about your Mom!! Condolences my friend!! Concerning the starting of the scoot.. Right or wrong, this works well for me.. Always cycle the fuel pump on my 1st Gens (and R1 too = actually of them with a fuel pump) on and off with the kill switch before hitting the start button and rolling the engine up to fill the carbs with fuel. Just keep cycling it until you hear the pump come to a slow stop indicating the bowls are full of fuel.. Then you do hit the start button, battery isnt wasted while spinning the motor and trying to fill the bowls at the same time.. Close the choke, when it fires get it off choke as soon as the bike will take a little throttle/work the choke off as quickly as possible to avoid fouling plugs. I use no fuel additives over winter but choose to just start my bikes every couple months during winter and let them run to temp,, then throttle em up to run fuel thru the mains.. Have done this successfully thru the years with both bikes and snomobiles.. Works awesome in my case.. In my case, I have noticed that additives (especially Sea Foam) creates a "sheen" coating on the plugs which causes early fouling - especially hard on the small "D" plugs our V-4's use.. If I had your scoot I would toss in some new plugs and check the plug cap to wire connections.. By the way,, does your scoot have OEM wire wires for plug wires? I have also found that non wire wires on my 1st Gens is a major no no.. Hope this helps a little...

Puc

Thank you Puc for mentioning my mom. I'm coping better now.

okay, so I turn kill switch on then turn ignition and don't hit start button? If that's correct I will try it. It does have original plug wires but I did replace the caps with oem since others were toast.

[cowpuc]

Thank you Puc for mentioning my mom. I'm coping better now.

okay, so I turn kill switch on then turn ignition and don't hit start button? If that's correct I will try it. It does have original plug wires but I did replace the caps with oem since others were toast.

You are welcome on the heart felt condolences about the loss of your Mom brother!! You are close on the start up detail.. Just turn the key on and leave it on.. Then rock the kill switch on and off to fill the carbs. The fuel pump is on some sort of a momentary "timer" that only allows it to cycle for a short time when you turn on the key.. If the bike has sat for any time at all, the pump will not fill the bowls on the initial key on timer cycle. So what you do is turn the key on with the kill switch in the ON position - do not turn the key off - leave the key in the RUN position and rocker the kill switch to the OFF position after the pump has stopped running from initial key to ON.. Now rocker the kill switch back to RUN position and listen for the pump to run - it will run for a couple seconds and timer out.. Now rock the kill switch back to off and then back to on and the pump will run thru another timed cycle.. Keep doing this until you hear the pump slowly die indicating the bowls are full of fuel.. After the bowls fill, rock the kill switch to ON - choke er and hit the start button.. Maddy,, you can do exactly the same thing by using the key switch turning to off and on BUT,, using the kill switch saves a lot of wear and tear on the key switch..

Make sense or do you need a short "Puc" video to explain??

[made2care]

You are welcome on the heart felt condolences about the loss of your Mom brother!! You are close on the start up detail.. Just turn the key on and leave it on.. Then rock the kill switch on and off to fill the carbs. The fuel pump is on some sort of a momentary "timer" that only allows it to cycle for a short time when you turn on the key.. If the bike has sat for any time at all, the pump will not fill the bowls on the initial key on timer cycle. So what you do is turn the key on with the kill switch in the ON position - do not turn the key off - leave the key in the RUN position and rocker the kill switch to the OFF position after the pump has stopped running from initial key to ON.. Now rocker the kill switch back to RUN position and listen for the pump to run - it will run for a couple seconds and timer out.. Now rock the kill switch back to off and then back to on and the pump will run thru another timed cycle.. Keep doing this until you hear the pump slowly die indicating the bowls are full of fuel.. After the bowls fill, rock the kill switch to ON - choke er and hit the start button.. Maddy,, you can do exactly the same thing by using the key switch turning to off and on BUT,, using the kill switch saves a lot of wear and tear on the key switch..

Make sense or do you need a short "Puc" video to explain??

Makes sense , thanks. Will try it next time. So if the bike is going to sit a while, should I drain carbs? Then do your kill switch trick every so often, to fire her up .

[made2care]

Could not believe this. Just the other day my wife asked me if I wanted to go for a bike ride. She does not ride bikes nor travel as a passenger on one. My jaw hit the ground and I quickly changed the spark plugs ( others had fouled). Bike fired right up and off we went. This was the first test of my bike riding two up and she handled very well. We rode about 15 miles and was a great experience. Bike runs great with new plugs!!

[RDawson]

Could not believe this. Just the other day my wife asked me if I wanted to go for a bike ride. She does not ride bikes nor travel as a passenger on one. My jaw hit the ground and I quickly changed the spark plugs ( others had fouled). Bike fired right up and off we went. This was the first test of my bike riding two up and she handled very well. We rode about 15 miles and was a great experience. Bike runs great with new plugs!!

 

Awesome. It started here that way too, she had never been on a bike and mentioned trying it. One short ride on a Virago and she said she might like it. I started looking for a tourer and found my 1st gen Venture. We rode it on day trips until I found the 2nd gen that fit us better. Now we go on vacations on the bike and every time the weather clears on a day off she mentions a ride if I don't beat her to it. Loving every minute of it.