made2care Posted November 3, 2019 Author #651 Posted November 3, 2019 Okay, i installed new speakers. Went with Polk weatherproof around $50. I still need to install antenna, geesh , totally forgot!
made2care Posted November 5, 2019 Author #652 Posted November 5, 2019 Well, I fired up the bike today and I have fuel leaking from one of the overflow tubes!! I spent $800 on the carb rebuild! I have contacted my carb guy and waiting for reply. I ran the carbs dry for now and will mess with it this weekend. thoughts?
BlueSky Posted November 6, 2019 #653 Posted November 6, 2019 A rust particle could have gotten under the seat. Drain and refill that carb a few times to see if it will flush it out. Maybe Cowpuc will chime in and give better instructions. He's the master.
snyper316 Posted November 6, 2019 #654 Posted November 6, 2019 Get a screw driver and tap your bowls to see if it will free up the stuck float, also cowpuc likes to call on a turkey baster and use that to flush the bowls from the bowl drain screws. which that also works very well
made2care Posted November 6, 2019 Author #655 Posted November 6, 2019 Thanks for the advice. Will try turkey blaster technique. Also, do I leave the carbs filled with gas for the winter or do I need to drain them? The gas is treated with Stabil.
BlueSky Posted November 6, 2019 #656 Posted November 6, 2019 My personal smelly opinion is that it is best to drain them because the fuel will dry up leaving some residue.
made2care Posted November 6, 2019 Author #657 Posted November 6, 2019 (edited) Well, i removed the drain screw on carb i suspect has a sticking valve and no gas came out. Still have to buy a turkey blaster and squirt some gas in there. I sure do hope these carbs aren't going to be finicky!! Edited November 6, 2019 by made2care
made2care Posted November 7, 2019 Author #658 Posted November 7, 2019 Bought a turkey blaster and it did not work. Most of the gas ended up on the ground, don't think the end of blaster fitted neatly into drain hole. Is there any other entry i could use to get gas through the carb to free it up and flush out whatever is causing the problem?
BlueSky Posted November 7, 2019 #659 Posted November 7, 2019 Just crack the drain valve leaving the tube on it. then jury rig the baster to the tube. If that carb had no fuel in it, how could it be the one draining fuel on the floor?
cowpuc Posted November 7, 2019 #660 Posted November 7, 2019 Maddy, I never tried a Turkey Baster but am pretty sure it would be very difficult to attach it to the drain tubes. I have always used Syringes, like what I show in the pics below. I get mine from a local Tractor Supply (use to be Farm and Fleet) and they fit the drain tubes nicely. What I do/have done is attach the syringe to a drain tube by forcing the nipple shown in the pic up into the tube (you may have to pre-spread the tube a little with a pair of needle nose pliers - just stick the closed nose of the pliers in the tube and open the pliers enough to stretch the rubber hose some so the syringe nipple will start into the tube) open the drain and suck the fuel out into the syringe. Leave the syringe attached and pull the plunger out and dump the fuel into a jar. Pull the carb slide/diaphram, fill the syringe with carb cleaner of your choice (I use spray cleaner from Menards), put the plunger back in and push the cleaner into the carb while watching the main jet emulsion tube in the carb body that the metering rod that attaches to the slide slides into. Push fuel in until the cleaner starts flowing from the metering rod hole - when it flows = close the drain and let it soak over night. When I remove the cleaner I like to pull it in and out of the bowl with the syringe to adgitate the cleaner a little. Not sure how well this will work for cleaning the float valve though as the float is going to be raising as you inject cleaner thru the drain... Perhaps,, maybe,, what da heck,, worth a try.. If it were mine I would probably do what I am talking about only after cleaning pulling the cleaner out for the last time I would leave the syringe attached, close the drain, cycle the fuel pump with the kill switch till I heard the pump signal the bowl was full by not cycling anymore, pull the fuel from the carb with the syringe a couple times to wash the float valve thouroughly. Maddy, did you check your fuel tank for rust? If not, it may not be a bad idea to pull the seat, pull the sending unit out of the top of tank and take a look inside of it. Pay special attention to the top of the tank, also dump the fuel you are removing from the carb and put it in a jar and let it set overnight to see if tiny rust particles are gathering in the bottom of the jar. I know this probably sounds nuts but I have had on more than one occasion had rust particles from rusty tank interiors that were so small that even the best of the best fuel filters would not collect em.. The little buggers of rust would still contaminate and mess up a healthy float valve though.. Anyway,, hope this helps.. Here is a video of the carb drain hoses that I did for another clubber, it shows the drain hoses I am speaking of and also some pics of the syringes I use, hope this all helps in some small way brother..
made2care Posted November 7, 2019 Author #661 Posted November 7, 2019 Thanks Puc, that info helped a bunch. Will attempt soon. I do want to back up and explain exactly how this all took place. As everyone saw and knew, the bike ran great for a while. One afternoon while placing the side cover back on, I noticed a small gas drip from underneath one carb. It was difficult to locate exactly where the leak was coming from but was a very slight drip from the brass screw/plug at bottom of carb bowl. The next issue was the bike would not start , so i checked the plugs with most of them being fouled. I cleaned the plugs and she started just fine. The next day i fired her up and a large amount of fuel was coming from one of the overflow tubes. I tapped on the suspect carb and then had to wait the next day to get back and see what was going on. I fired her up again and no more leaking fuel but I then removed the drain screw from the suspect carb and no fuel came out. This is where i am now, the engine runs but only on what appears to be 3 cylinders. I am going to try Pucs method which some of you suggested. I did try at first to squirt gas into the drain hole not knowing i can go through the drain hose. Thanks to Pucs video I am now aware i can go that route. I did some thinking on all of this and do not suspect the tank, as i de-rusted it pretty well. I do remember that i forgot to change out the main original fuel line going from the pump to the carb, which i did place a new inline filter in. Maybe that hose is breaking down. the hose from the petcock to fuel pump is new. thanks again for your help and i will keep you updated.
made2care Posted November 7, 2019 Author #662 Posted November 7, 2019 Good news but.............................. Okay, carb is unstuck. I opened the drain screw and fuel is coming out nicely now. Bike seems to be running well again but it will miss from time to time. I will check the plugs again. If its running too rich is there a way i can lean her out a bit? Also, There is a little rubber square (will take a pic) that sits to the right of the fuse panel ( i did upgrade the fuse panel using skydocs kit ). I do remember this having a slight issue but just now thought of it. Inside are 2 glass fuses, one is a spare. I do remember having to hold it tightly for the bike to stay running or start properly and then forgot about it. Could this be causing the missing? just a thought. Anyway, no fuel leaking from overflow and cylinder is hot. Will keep you updated. I still think something is up with that glass fuse.
BlueSky Posted November 7, 2019 #663 Posted November 7, 2019 You can adjust the idle mixture screws. Turn them in with the engine running until the rpm slows down and then back them out a tad. I would gently screw them in all the way with the engine off before I started just to see how many turns out they are and them return them to their original position before starting the engine and adjusting with the engine running. Screwing them in leans out the idle mixture. Ideally, the carbs should be synced at the same time the mixture is adjusted.
made2care Posted November 8, 2019 Author #664 Posted November 8, 2019 Here is the plug/ connection in question. What is it? Bike runs fine if I hold it tight.
snyper316 Posted November 8, 2019 #665 Posted November 8, 2019 I want to apoligize for my fumble on the turkey baster, I have meat injectors and syringes from my kids medicine i would use. That almost looks like a fuse of some sort but My bikes don't have that.
BlueSky Posted November 8, 2019 #666 Posted November 8, 2019 (edited) My 89 has those fuses but I don't know what they power. Evidently, one of those fuses is a spare. Okay, I went out and looked again with a wiring diagram and the fuse is labeled (CLASS) on the diagram. Edited November 8, 2019 by BlueSky
made2care Posted November 8, 2019 Author #667 Posted November 8, 2019 My 89 has those fuses but I don't know what they power. Evidently, one of those fuses is a spare. Okay, I went out and looked again with a wiring diagram and the fuse is labeled (CLASS) on the diagram. okay, thanks for the info
made2care Posted November 8, 2019 Author #668 Posted November 8, 2019 I want to apoligize for my fumble on the turkey baster, I have meat injectors and syringes from my kids medicine i would use. That almost looks like a fuse of some sort but My bikes don't have that. No problem bro. she's running again but just too rich.
made2care Posted November 9, 2019 Author #669 Posted November 9, 2019 You can adjust the idle mixture screws. Turn them in with the engine running until the rpm slows down and then back them out a tad. I would gently screw them in all the way with the engine off before I started just to see how many turns out they are and them return them to their original position before starting the engine and adjusting with the engine running. Screwing them in leans out the idle mixture. Ideally, the carbs should be synced at the same time the mixture is adjusted. Where are these located?
BlueSky Posted November 9, 2019 #670 Posted November 9, 2019 this training video shows how to sync and adjust the idle mixtures. The idle mix screws are shown at about 4 minutes into the video.
made2care Posted November 9, 2019 Author #671 Posted November 9, 2019 Well shoot! Got stranded on the hwy today but managed to make it home. Bike was running fine and suddenly it died. I coasted off to the side of the road and could not get it started. Side stand was up, bike was in neutral. I somehow managed to get it started but it appeared to be running on just a few cylinders and died again. Pulled to side of road again and could not get it started. Same thing she fired up( after starting it 10 times) but this time was full force, all cylinders. I took off and bike was riding as if nothing had happened. The bike is still running very rich. I'm starting to think this might be an electrical issue. No gas was leaking anywhere. I cannot take this bike out until this is resolved!! Any thoughts? Could TCI unit be faulty? What would cause a bike to suddenly lose power while going 60mph? I will check spark again. The plugs are fouling pretty fast but she road home perfect!! Someone please chime in here. Thanks
RDawson Posted November 9, 2019 #672 Posted November 9, 2019 Check the electrical plugs on the tci and from the pick up coils.
made2care Posted November 9, 2019 Author #673 Posted November 9, 2019 Check the electrical plugs on the tci and from the pick up coils. This has a vmax cdi. Does anyone here refurbish these old cdi modules?
made2care Posted November 9, 2019 Author #674 Posted November 9, 2019 I found a new replacement for the CDI box but its aftermarket. Company claims bike will start easier and won't die. Only problem, its $330. I am going to check some other things but it has to be the CDI box causing the issues. thoughts?
luvmy40 Posted November 9, 2019 #675 Posted November 9, 2019 (edited) I really have no way of knowing if your issue is CDI related but can highly recommend the IGNITECH TCIP4 with connector adapter for your Gen1, MK1 Venture. Email ignitech@ignitech.cz and give them your bikes specs and ask for a quote. It's well under $300.00 Edited November 9, 2019 by luvmy40
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