Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

These plastics are in worse shape tha previously thought! Anyway, just a few more pieces to fix. If you ever have to mend the plastics, one has to use ABS glue and cleaner. Here are a few pics. Getting closer. I'm using a rubbing compound to bring out the original colour .

image.jpg

image.jpg

Posted

I've restored the saddlebags. She's strong as new now but, the PO did away with the temporary mounts and handle. I think i want to go back to original mounts as one can then remove the bags if needed to. I have all the hardware for that. Do the bags stay put with factory mounts?

Thoughts?

thanks

Posted

Yep.. the OEM mounts work awesome IMHO... Very secure.. Just make sure the lock seats well into the connector when you snap em back on after removal for maintenance and the key is moved over to the lock position.. It almost impossible for the bags to sneak off once they are locked on. I did loose one of the button bolts that slide into the reciever on the sub frame once years ago.. It's not a bad idea to double check those button bolts for tightness (they are Allen Head if memory serves correctly), also the grommet on those bolts can be worn excessively and cause looseness in the bag mounts.. Another maintenance item that I found handy in my case was lubing the lock mechanizms internally before they get sticky and make it hard to get into the bags and/or get the bags off... Not a bad job and definitely worth the time as Murphy LOVES to attack those locks making them unopenable at the most incovient of times.. Typical Murphy stuff,,, just gotta try and stay one step ahead of the lop eared adding to the excitement of CTFW varmint....

LOOKING GREAT THERE BROTHER!! GOOD JOB!! :thumbsup::clap2::clap2::clap2::clap2::dancefool::dancefool::dancefool:

Posted
Yep.. the OEM mounts work awesome IMHO... Very secure.. Just make sure the lock seats well into the connector when you snap em back on after removal for maintenance and the key is moved over to the lock position.. It almost impossible for the bags to sneak off once they are locked on. I did loose one of the button bolts that slide into the reciever on the sub frame once years ago.. It's not a bad idea to double check those button bolts for tightness (they are Allen Head if memory serves correctly), also the grommet on those bolts can be worn excessively and cause looseness in the bag mounts.. Another maintenance item that I found handy in my case was lubing the lock mechanizms internally before they get sticky and make it hard to get into the bags and/or get the bags off... Not a bad job and definitely worth the time as Murphy LOVES to attack those locks making them unopenable at the most incovient of times.. Typical Murphy stuff,,, just gotta try and stay one step ahead of the lop eared adding to the excitement of CTFW varmint....

LOOKING GREAT THERE BROTHER!! GOOD JOB!! :thumbsup::clap2::clap2::clap2::clap2::dancefool::dancefool::dancefool:

 

Puc, thank you for the info and compliments. I'm definitely going with the oem now. I'm getting close! It's good to hear from you!! Later.

Posted

One thing I found is when you go to mount the stock trunk make sure the floor of the trunk isn’t cracked where the latch is mounted on the underside. If it’s cracked the latch can deflect while riding and come sliding forward during a hard stop. Ask me how I know this!

Posted

What is this little tube. Looks like one end goes to a sensor and other end fits into carb joint. I removed the end connected to joint since it was leaking gas. I will have to find a small nipple fitting to make it fit right.

IMG_3149.jpg

Posted
What is this little tube. Looks like one end goes to a sensor and other end fits into carb joint. I removed the end connected to joint since it was leaking gas. I will have to find a small nipple fitting to make it fit right.

 

That tube is not factory.

There IS supposed to be a hose from the number 2 carburetor to the "Boost Sensor" on the 1983.

On the the 1984-1993, the hose should connect to the number 2 intake on the synchronizing port and go up to the Boost Sensor. There should be a small plastic restrictor in the hose to the Boost Sensor.

Restrictor:

41R-14489-00-00  nozzle.jpg41R-14489-00-00.jpgVacuum Restrictor for Ignition Boost Sensor (Large).jpg

Posted

I don't have the stock TCI, instead I believe my current TCI is yellow label off of a Vmax. I guess I will go ahead and get a restrictor, new hose and connect to boost sensor and #2 intake port. Will that work?

Posted
I don't have the stock TCI, instead I believe my current TCI is yellow label off of a Vmax. I guess I will go ahead and get a restrictor, new hose and connect to boost sensor and #2 intake port. Will that work?

 

It should work.

Consider that the inner diameter of the hose from the vacuum restrictor to the Boost Sensor is smaller than the inner diameter of the hose from the intake boot to the restrictor. You will need two different hoses. (See the pic of the restrictor). Yamaha calls that restrictor a "nozzle", part number 41R-14489-00. It is available from Yamaha, Partzilla and on eBay. for about $11 - $15.

The hose from intake boot to restrictor is part number 90445-09757-00, about $5. I do not know the size or part number for the hose from the restrictor to the Boost Sensor.

Note that the restrictor/nozzle must be oriented with arrow pointing up to the Boost Sensor. In addition to it being a vacuum restrictor that dampens the vacuum pulses from the intake, it is also a one way check valve that prevents pressure from the intake going to the Boost Sensor (as in a backfire). Pressure on the Boost Sensor may damaged it.

Posted
I removed the end connected to joint since it was leaking gas.

 

I almost missed this comment.

There should be NO fuel at either end of hose from the intake to the Boost Sensor.

If it was leaking gasoline at the intake boot (your "joint"?) there is a problem!

Raw fuel should never get to the intake or cylinders. It should not be present in any vacuum lines, either.

If you had fuel leaking from that tube where it connected to the intake boot, there is a danger of hydro locking that cylinder. Very bad if that happens. Things will break.

To be safe, pull the spark plug on that particular cylinder before attempting to crank the engine.

Posted
I almost missed this comment.

There should be NO fuel at either end of hose from the intake to the Boost Sensor.

If it was leaking gasoline at the intake boot (your "joint"?) there is a problem!

Raw fuel should never get to the intake or cylinders. It should not be present in any vacuum lines, either.

If you had fuel leaking from that tube where it connected to the intake boot, there is a danger of hydro locking that cylinder. Very bad if that happens. Things will break.

To be safe, pull the spark plug on that particular cylinder before attempting to crank the engine.

 

What's strange, is last week I topped off the gas tank and have not ridden the bike. Yesterday, I smelled gas and opened the gas cap, looked inside and the level had dropped. I have kept the fuel petcock open while bike sat. I went ahead and closed the petcock and topped off. Today I checked the gas level and it has not changed. Strange!

Posted
What's strange, is last week I topped off the gas tank and have not ridden the bike. Yesterday, I smelled gas and opened the gas cap, looked inside and the level had dropped. I have kept the fuel petcock open while bike sat. I went ahead and closed the petcock and topped off. Today I checked the gas level and it has not changed. Strange!

 

Check the crankcase oil level. The gasoline may have drained into the crankcase sump. Again, not a good thing. Diluted oil.

 

A carburetor float valve that is stuck open will allow raw fuel to drain into the cylinder and ultimately the crankcase, washing down the cylinder walls in the process.

 

Usually the only way for the First Generation Venture to flood the engine while sitting is because of a faulty fuel pump (poppet valves wedged open or deformed open) AND stuck open carb floats. And even then, the tank has to be full. When the fuel leaking into the carbs and engine reaches a level where the fuel level in the tank is equal to the height of the carb float valve, then it will stop.

Posted
Check the crankcase oil level. The gasoline may have drained into the crankcase sump. Again, not a good thing. Diluted oil.

 

A carburetor float valve that is stuck open will allow raw fuel to drain into the cylinder and ultimately the crankcase, washing down the cylinder walls in the process.

 

Usually the only way for the First Generation Venture to flood the engine while sitting is because of a faulty fuel pump (poppet valves wedged open or deformed open) AND stuck open carb floats. And even then, the tank has to be full. When the fuel leaking into the carbs and engine reaches a level where the fuel level in the tank is equal to the height of the carb float valve, then it will stop.

 

I checked oil level and it's good, no change. I think could just be a stuck float, anyway, I turned off petcock and ran the carbs dry while tapping on float covers. I did check #2 plug and it was fouled. Will have to tweak air/ fuel mixture a bit. Thanks for your help. Bike will be fine. I'm almost done with rebuilding the plastics and then I'm going to make a restoration video of entire project. Should be in the next few weeks. I ordered the parts for booster sensor line.

Posted

Could that tube be one of the overflow drain lines that run from each carb and down the back of the engine between the exhaust and fuel tank? That is the only way I can think of fuel being in any of the lines.

Randy

Posted
Could that tube be one of the overflow drain lines that run from each carb and down the back of the engine between the exhaust and fuel tank? That is the only way I can think of fuel being in any of the lines.

Randy

No, this line is connected to the boost sensor and intake boot.

 

Here is a video of the bike almost complete. I state in the video that this will be the last video, however, i am going to put together a final final from beginning to end, so wait for that. Took her for a spin and she runs well with all the bags and stuff on !!

Posted

Thank you Cowpuc for nominating me for an exceptional member award. I really do appreciate you and many others on this forum that helped me restore this beautiful bike. Now, I'm not anywhere near the caliber of restoration as johnnycyclone but she is running again! For years I would look at this bike online and many times wished that I owned one and now I do. This is a keeper for sure and with that being said, this summer we are hitting the road to travel this beautiful country.

Now, I do still have a few issues to tweak: Polk speakers to replace oem, new boost sensor line with valve, paint touchup and windshield buff. That should do it. will keep you posted.

Posted
Thank you Cowpuc for nominating me for an exceptional member award. I really do appreciate you and many others on this forum that helped me restore this beautiful bike. Now, I'm not anywhere near the caliber of restoration as johnnycyclone but she is running again! For years I would look at this bike online and many times wished that I owned one and now I do. This is a keeper for sure and with that being said, this summer we are hitting the road to travel this beautiful country.

Now, I do still have a few issues to tweak: Polk speakers to replace oem, new boost sensor line with valve, paint touchup and windshield buff. That should do it. will keep you posted.

 

You are welcome my friend,, YOU DID IT = YOU EARNED IT brother!!! I can not WAIT to follow along on your adVentures as you uncover the real reason that many of us still consider that particular model of touring bike the perfect long distance touring machine!!! Looking forward to vicariously riding with you and enjoying the ongoing the ongoing saga of Maddy and his gorgeous Blonde steed!!!

Puc

Posted

I have followed this thread, and this build, since day one. Not necessarily because of how it was going to turn out but more out of the admiration for your patience, perseverance and drive. If I recall, somewhere early on you stated that this was something you had never undertaken before but you forged on anyway. With a whole lot of support from this group and I’m sure many days of wishing you had never started the project, the end result must be overwhelming satisfaction. Congratulations on your build and may you have many fun and safe miles burning up the roads. Doug

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...