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please help, what would you do?


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I was on my way out of town when I chatted with the gentleman and he gave me the bike. I will be back home Friday afternoon and will take pics of it and post it here. It was black and from what I remember only had 1 carb. He did say it was a 1965. It did not appear to be bigger than my yamaha 180 so I'm suspecting it's a 165. It's very rusted and is missing a headlight bucket. I'm still excited though!!

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My Brother-in-Law had a Red 305 Dream when I was 12. I used to run/jump on it to ride it and thought it was the greatest thing under the sun at the time. He and my sister moved to NC that summer and someone hit him in the rear sending him sliding down the highway at 55 - 60. The bike was totaled and he was super lucky to survive. He spent the next couple of days in the hospital and came away with severe road rash and if I remember only had a broken wrist. I remember seeing him a year later and his back looked like a cheese grater. He never rode again that I know of. I would love to find one of these just to ride it. My wife has a 1 bike rule, for good reason too as I'd probably fill the garage.

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Well, i got the old Honda home. Turns out its a small 65cc but still pretty neat. I don't know if I will try to restore since its so small but I have options since it was free! Tried loading pics and receive error message.

 

 

Okay, so here is the old Honda. just given to me. 1965 sport, little 65cc but i plan on upping the engine to 140 with bigger tires.

yamaha venture restoration 094.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
My carb guy just informed me that he is almost done with my carbs. He put together a picture diary of what he ran into:

 

https://www.motorcycleproject.com/galleries/Gallery120/

 

 

Here is a current pic of the carbs almost completed.

 

That is just crazy I now see what he was talking about on the plugs. I have a bout 24 of these carbs and 6 of them in peices!! I looked at the jet block with his picture and realized I was mistaken on the jet block. The ones i got off ebay that needed rebuilt didn't even have the plugs in half of them. Then the other problem I ran into it had mismatched jets. It was all good and fun just rebuilding them when I had quit smoking. Figure I would rebuild carbs with the money I was saving..

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I don't know what he is talking about .... and neither does he!

 

The Venture never had a "vacuum petcock" for the fuel tank.

I suspect that he sees the vacuum port on the number 2 carb and thinks that is for a vacuum petcock.

Uniquely, on the 1983 only, that vacuum port was connected to the "Boost Sensor" (vacuum advance unit that sent a signal to the TCI).

From 1984 on, the Boost Sensor got its vacuum from the intake port of number cylinder.

If you still have the original TCI (black label, 26H-10) you need the vacuum pickup to remain on that port on the number two carb.

 

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=117145https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=117146

 

Here is the ignition unit that was moved to the top of the airbox, not original. So do I leave #2 carb vacuum port plugged ? Why would someone put a different unit on?

IMG_3132.jpg

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Here is the ignition unit that was moved to the top of the airbox, not original. So do I leave #2 carb vacuum port plugged ? Why would someone put a different unit on?

 

That 1FK-10 TCI is for a VMax.

Perhaps the original 26H-10 TCI was bad and the V-Max TCI was available and probably would allow the engine to run, although the timing curve and other things are different on the V-Max TCI.

And yes, since you aren't running the 26H-10 TCI, the vacuum port on number 2 carb should be plugged.

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That 1FK-10 TCI is for a VMax.

Perhaps the original 26H-10 TCI was bad and the V-Max TCI was available and probably would allow the engine to run, although the timing curve and other things are different on the V-Max TCI.

And yes, since you aren't running the 26H-10 TCI, the vacuum port on number 2 carb should be plugged.

 

Okay, thanks for getting back with me. Would you try to go with a new aftermarket unit or keep the vmax and see how it runs?

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I would at least start with the VMax TCI since you have it. If it doesn't work well then you can always go with either a 41R-10/11 Yamaha TCI for the 1984-1989 Ventures or go with an Ignitech aftermarket unit.

 

Thank you sir. I will try that and let you know how things turn out. What year would this vmax unit be?

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Thank you sir. I will try that and let you know how things turn out. What year would this vmax unit be?

 

The 1985 VMax TCI was 1FK-09, so your 1FK-10 is from a newer VMax. I am not certain exactly what year, they used it for several years.

EDIT:

The 1FK-** was used from 1985-1989 on the VMax. From 1990-2006 the 3JP-** TCI was used. The 3JP-** TCI was for a single pick-up. The 1FK-** was for the four pick-up system.

Edited by Prairiehammer
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The 1985 VMax TCI was 1FK-09, so your 1FK-10 is from a newer VMax. I am not certain exactly what year, they used it for several years.

EDIT:

The 1FK-** was used from 1985-1989 on the VMax. From 1990-2006 the 3JP-** TCI was used. The 3JP-** TCI was for a single pick-up. The 1FK-** was for the four pick-up system.

 

I see. Another question. What symptoms do I look for if this one is not compatible enough?

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I see. Another question. What symptoms do I look for if this one is not compatible enough?

 

I have no experience running a VMax TCI on a Venture, so I can't say with certainty, but it may exhibit poor performance at the lower rpm range due to the different ignition advance curve.

Someone, may have better answers, I simply don't know.

I do know that aside from the ignition advance curve, the VMax TCI controlled the servo motor for the V-Boost intake on the VMax. How that affects the ignition on a Venture, if at all, I can't say.

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Okay, Carbs are completed and are in the air back to me. should receive mid week. I was reading over the manual and upon reassembly, it states you have to "level" the fuel?? I thought since the carbs have been professionally cleaned and rebuilt, synced and leak tested this wouldn't be necessary.

thoughts?

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Okay, Carbs are completed and are in the air back to me. should receive mid week. I was reading over the manual and upon reassembly, it states you have to "level" the fuel?? I thought since the carbs have been professionally cleaned and rebuilt, synced and leak tested this wouldn't be necessary.

thoughts?

 

I can't find that passage in my manual, but I am assuming that you mean checking and adjusting the float bowl fuel level. The carbs can be rebuilt but that does not guarantee that the fuel level is correct.

Since you state that the carbs have been "leak tested", presumably by filling the carbs with fuel, perhaps the mechanic also checked the bowl fuel level. Filling the carb with fuel is really the only way to check the final fuel level. One can do an approximation of proper float position (fuel level) by measuring the float height relative to the bowl lip, but a running engine can sometimes show different fuel levels for each bowl, despite the float position being identical in each carb. Hopefully your carbs will be correctly set for fuel level. After installation, check the fuel level. If incorrect, remove the carbs from the bike, break the rack of carbs, remove the float bowl cover and bend the tang on the float to correct the fuel level. Reassemble and check the fuel level on the bike. As you can see, it is a PITA. That's why getting the setting correct for float position while on the bench is so desirable. But there are no guarantees.

 

As for the carbs being "synched", the carbs were bench synched. This involves insuring that each carb butterfly is set to the same opening mechanically. This should get your carbs in the ball park, but proper synchronization can only occur with the carbs mounted on a running engine.

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  1. I can't find that passage in my manual, but I am assuming that you mean checking and adjusting the float bowl fuel level. The carbs can be rebuilt but that does not guarantee that the fuel level is correct.

Since you state that the carbs have been "leak tested", presumably by filling the carbs with fuel, perhaps the mechanic also checked the bowl fuel level. Filling the carb with fuel is really the only way to check the final fuel level. One can do an approximation of proper float position (fuel level) by measuring the float height relative to the bowl lip, but a running engine can sometimes show different fuel levels for each bowl, despite the float position being identical in each carb. Hopefully your carbs will be correctly set for fuel level. After installation, check the fuel level. If incorrect, remove the carbs from the bike, break the rack of carbs, remove the float bowl cover and bend the tang on the float to correct the fuel level. Reassemble and check the fuel level on the bike. As you can see, it is a PITA. That's why getting the setting correct for float position while on the bench is so desirable. But there are no guarantees.

 

As for the carbs being "synched", the carbs were bench synched. This involves insuring that each carb butterfly is set to the same opening mechanically. This should get your carbs in the ball park, but proper synchronization can only occur with the carbs mounted on a running engine.

Thanx for the info. I know with a few goldwing carbs, there is a distance you measure from bowl lip to point on the float and once you have bent the little tab to get that specific measurement, your floats are good to go.

 

Okay, i just checekd with my carb guy and everyhting has been adjusted and checked. All i have to do is adjust the idle.

Edited by made2care
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Thanx for the info. I know with a few goldwing carbs, there is a distance you measure from bowl lip to point on the float and once you have bent the little tab to get that specific measurement, your floats are good to go.

 

Okay, i just checekd with my carb guy and everyhting has been adjusted and checked. All i have to do is adjust the idle.

 

Not quite true. You still should still "balance" the carbs after they are installed and running. You need to balance the airflow...and that can only be done when running with air cleaner on at the proper idle. Although there are some engine masters here on site that do the carb balance at a higher RPM. Your call on this as I have no experience with high idle balancing...other than watching it get done at MD this past summer.

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According to the Yamaha training video on line, you need to balance the carbs while adjusting the idle mixture because one can affect the other. If you haven't watched those 12 videos, it may be worth your time to do so. I would think that if the throttle plates were adjusted perfectly on the bench to be the same, the carb balancing would not be necessary but I ain't no expert on these bikes.

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Any tips you guys have before I fire her up this weekend. Oil is in , along with antifreeze. Tank is clean with fresh gas. Installed in line fuel filter going to carbs. I'm a little nervous since this will be my first start after an off frame rebuild. I am concerned about getting oil through channels upon startup and someone suggested starting it first with spark plug wires disconnected to move oil through engine before firing. Will it be okay if I just start it up? Anyway, if I left anything out, please let me know. Thanks

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