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please help, what would you do?


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Okay, cases are back together. Note to others, I used a small crafts type brush made of horse hair to apply yama bond. I only applied a thin layer to the upper case being careful to stay 2 mm from bearing edges. The small brush made application pretty neat and easy. Bearing retainers are in, along with oil pump and oil pan. Used new o rings , seals and of course Oem gasket which I dry fitted. Before I buttoned everything up, I made sure the transmission shifted through all gears. Gear lash appears fine with very slight movement. So far a great learning experience. I've decided to not paint any parts since most of these are covered anyway. More work planned for tomorrow!

 

If you change your mind on painting the cases, years ago I hammered out a VERY close combination paint/clear coat application that is/was very close to OEM on Mini-Trail restores (show bikes).. Be glad to look back in shop notes and let you know what I came up with back then if you want to try some testing with the combo of your own..

LOOKING GR8 there Maddy,, JUST AWESOME!!:thumbsup: she's gonna be a DANDY!! :thumbsup:

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Seeing your engine sitting there on the lift/bench, with the starter motor out there in the open, reminded me to mention swapping out the original two brush motor for a four brush starting motor. Easy peasey at this point in your project.

BTW, I have a Yamaha four brush motor for sale. (hint)

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Seeing your engine sitting there on the lift/bench, with the starter motor out there in the open, reminded me to mention swapping out the original two brush motor for a four brush starting motor. Easy peasey at this point in your project.

BTW, I have a Yamaha four brush motor for sale. (hint)

 

:sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign Rock On:

 

or at a minimum, pull the starter apart and clean the dust off of the armature (I have always had good luck with the OEM 2 brush starters if I keep em clean). I think I would also double check the stater and make sure it has been updated and tests good. Also may as well check the water pump - if its an 83 - to see if it has the updated impellar. Could pull the cam covers, do a valve lash check and prelube the journals for start up too and drop in some new gaskets on top.. Make er ready to roll.

 

GOOD point @Prairiehammer!!! :thumbsup:

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even if you do not want to spend the money right now for the 4 brush, which is the best option. Cleaning it out as Puc mentioned and doing the ground wire mod are basically no cost options to make the 2 brush better than it was.

 

Regardless of which starter you use it is a big help to change the stock power and ground cables from the wimpy stock #8AWG wire to a #4AWG welding wire. It would be a lot easier to snake the new wires thru now with no engine in the way.

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:sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign Rock On:

 

or at a minimum, pull the starter apart and clean the dust off of the armature (I have always had good luck with the OEM 2 brush starters if I keep em clean). I think I would also double check the stater and make sure it has been updated and tests good. Also may as well check the water pump - if its an 83 - to see if it has the updated impellar. Could pull the cam covers, do a valve lash check and prelube the journals for start up too and drop in some new gaskets on top.. Make er ready to roll.

 

GOOD point Prairiehammer!!! :thumbsup:

Water pump has updated impellar . I will clean the starter. Will also check the stator. Thanks for the reminders.

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Good thing I took starter apart!! Filthy !!

 

RUSTY! Usually the dirt inside is carbon from the brushes. The amount of rust showing would make me nervous about reusing it. The field magnets have been exposed to a lot of high moisture conditions. When the magnets begin to rust, they often start to spall. The consequence is either shorted armature or a severely dragging starter due to the rust and fragments wedged between the field magnets and the armature.

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RUSTY! Usually the dirt inside is carbon from the brushes. The amount of rust showing would make me nervous about reusing it. The field magnets have been exposed to a lot of high moisture conditions. When the magnets begin to rust, they often start to spall. The consequence is either shorted armature or a severely dragging starter due to the rust and fragments wedged between the field magnets and the armature.

 

I think you are correct here. Even though i cleaned it, I had no idea that the rust would cause issues. i found a replacement using a RSV and it should bolt right on.

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Went with brand new vmax. Crucial parts on this bike should be new if possible. Even though I tried to rebuild this one, the more I thought about it, better to get new and 4 brush. Didn't test this one but just too much rust!!

i am not selling this bike when I'm done !! And I hope it will run!!

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Man you have the "I want to keep this bike running" sickness bad. You will fit right in with this bunch of nuts. Most of us keep these bike running because we have had them for so long and grown to really like them. They pretty much work as good as any of the new bikes and looking at my 88 parked next to my 09 Vision I really don't see "new bike and old bike". They both look impressive and capable of doing just what they were built to do.

 

As far as taking apart the motor to fix 2nd gear wow that is a big job. Every time I work on mine I think about how much I would not want to try and pull that motor. I think I would go buy another bike first. There are so many in good or great condition and so little demand for them that the price is typically good. I picked up an V65 years ago for $150. It had a lot of issues but I always wanted one and thought I could put this thing back together. After way more work than I should have put in I got to the bottom of my 1/4 mile long down hill driveway and found out the clutch was bad. Got that fixed and eventually found out my 2nd gear was bad. The V4 motor is not and easy one to work on and it was cheaper ($200) to buy and new motor and swap them out. Even that was a big job. You basically had to pull the bike up off the motor. Just remembering where everything goes and how lines run is nuts. I actually had to go look at and video tape a friends bike since the manual did not really explain how everything went back together.

 

I had to laugh yesterday when I finally got my front and back end back on the bike and looked at the tray of leftovers. Only about 1/2 dozen fasteners left over. I figured that was pretty good. After replacing the break lines and calipers I now have a back break that does not seem to work real good and a front that still feels like it way to soft but that a matter for another thread.

 

Good luck and happy to help if possible.

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Not being familiar with clutch parts I did notice this plate and no clutch springs. So this plate has replaced the springs. Will the torque be the same for the clutch screws, manual says 8 nm.

image.jpg

Edited by made2care
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There's a 1/2 clutch plate in there too. With the upgrade Skydoc sells you do away with the wire and put a full plate in place of the 1/2 and with PCW diaphragm spring the clutch will hook up at all speeds.

 

From what I've read though, eliminating the 1/2 clutch plate also decreases the distance the clutch lever can be moved to engage or disengage. So, it will be harder to slip the clutch.

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It does change the friction zone somewhat. I have it in both my bikes and wouldn't change back, especially pulling the trailer. The biggest problem I've had was 1-1/2 hrs of stop n go thru Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge, I think my left forearm was twice the size of my right from pulling the clutch.

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Well, the wife is packing for our trip. You know how that goes!! Since I packed my bag in 5 minutes ( 50 pairs of underwear and a few t shirts) I wandered into the garage and I heard a voice say, " hey, install that pretty new fuel pump real quick !" So..... I did!

IMG_3060.jpg

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Here is skydoc's( earl) kit I used to fix valve clearance. Shims were easy to remove and replace with correct ones. I did end up having to order an odd size on one- 265 and a few 270's as the kit did not include those. Those should be here in a few days. I'm getting excited as I am near the big day of transplanting the engine to its better/ new frame.

image.jpg

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Well, after a few hrs and taking about 3 breaks to vent my frustration, I managed to get the engine married to its new frame. I just lifted the frame over the engine. Lots of tweaking and I must admit, this was a pain in the ars but I somehow managed to get it. Whew!! What a relief!

image.jpg

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DAMNNNN Thats in Springfield TOO!!! wished I had a trailer big enuff I would so grab that right away, My son wants to see a chopper build out of these bikes I just could not bring myself to do it to Tinker or Riva....

 

Well, the wife is packing for our trip. You know how that goes!! Since I packed my bag in 5 minutes ( 50 pairs of underwear and a few t shirts) I wandered into the garage and I heard a voice say, " hey, install that pretty new fuel pump real quick !" So..... I did!

 

I hate when that happens. But hell can't help it when they start talking to you!

 

Really enjoying watching this build. I can remember when I would have enjoyed doing it. Now I just enjoy watching YOU do it. :)

 

Your Just getting OLD!!!:backinmyday::backinmyday:

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