please help, what would you do?

[made2care]

I am very late arriving at this party, so pardon me if I missed something in the five pages of this thread.

 

1. Check the engine number. Both the clutch cover and the stator cover indicate that this is a 1300. I can identify the year of the engine if you give me the engine number.

2. If it IS a 1300, the second gear "missing" may not be because of the transmission damaged. It may be because of the linkage train; either the shift drum or the shift linkage on the left side. (The foot pegs are not stock MKI pegs, nor are the peg mounts. The left peg mount looks like it may have been part of an aftermarket floorboard retrofit. The linkage may have been cobbled.

3. Final drive is not stock MKI. Either MKII or maybe V-Max. (Shock mount stud sawed off?)

4. Trailer hitch is not made for a MKI Venture. Either for a MKII or perhaps a GW.

5. (minor point): The mufflers are from a MKII. Muffler mount is not proper for a MKI and the turn downs are as for a MKII.

6. (another minor point): The fairing bags are added. The 1983 Royale did not come with fairing bags; the brackets that hold the bags are also not stock Venture.

 

Wow! This is very interesting! Here is the engine #. 31M-001808.

[Prairiehammer]

Wow! This is very interesting! Here is the engine #. 31M-001808. So based on this # can you also find out the year?

 

Welp! I'm sorry.

Someone did just what others have said they might: swapped out crankcase covers from a 1300 apparently. Who knows why.

31M 001808 is an engine that was originally installed in a 1983 Royale. Made in March 1983.

Does the frame number (VIN) match? It should be JYA31M00?DA0001808.

[made2care]

Welp! I'm sorry.

Someone did just what others have said they might: swapped out crankcase covers from a 1300 apparently. Who knows why.

31M 001808 is an engine that was originally installed in a 1983 Royale. Made in March 1983.

Does the frame number (VIN) match? It should be JYA31M00?DA0001808.

 

Yes, frame matches engine.

[videoarizona]

Also video you said same thing when I said I finally fixed my oil leak.

 

Sent from my LG-M255 using Tapatalk

 

 

I'm not sure if that's a good thing or not? Memory going in my brain?

But don't remember. I'm not going to worry about it....my little leak is still there....and I still go for a ride now and then and then look over the scoot after the ride with a black light looking for the leak. I'll find it at some point.

 

Note to Self: think outside the box....

[snyper316]

I'm not sure if that's a good thing or not? Memory going in my brain?

But don't remember. I'm not going to worry about it....my little leak is still there....and I still go for a ride now and then and then look over the scoot after the ride with a black light looking for the leak. I'll find it at some point.

 

Note to Self: think outside the box....

 

We still haven't talked about it, you just said we should talk because you had the same issue. Mine had just got so bad I had to fix it..

[videoarizona]

We still haven't talked about it, you just said we should talk because you had the same issue. Mine had just got so bad I had to fix it..

 

 

Ah...LOL....got it!

 

True, we haven't talked. Some day when my leak gets the best of me I'll contact you.

 

So far, I've looked at the neutral/shift switch, the slave cylinder attachment point and under the engine. Haven't been able to see anything yet from the left rear (#1) cylinder to see if the valve cover gasket is leaking. Nothing from the twinkie or any area around the stator, stator wires, etc.. Also looked at the main oil seal at the rear of the engine just before the U-joint. There is some seepage there....or it could be where some of the oil leak is sitting after being blown back. The kickstand area of the frame is the low point so the leak can be anywhere...

 

I'll get there eventually!

[snyper316]

Ah...LOL....got it!

 

True, we haven't talked. Some day when my leak gets the best of me I'll contact you.

 

So far, I've looked at the neutral/shift switch, the slave cylinder attachment point and under the engine. Haven't been able to see anything yet from the left rear (#1) cylinder to see if the valve cover gasket is leaking. Nothing from the twinkie or any area around the stator, stator wires, etc.. Also looked at the main oil seal at the rear of the engine just before the U-joint. There is some seepage there....or it could be where some of the oil leak is sitting after being blown back. The kickstand area of the frame is the low point so the leak can be anywhere...

 

I'll get there eventually!

Which is what mine was doing I ended up taking the transmission cover off to see it!

 

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[snyper316]

Which is what mine was doing I ended up taking the transmission cover off to see it!

 

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Forgot to add I have a pole here I leaned the bike against to put that cover in the air. Waited a little bit then pulled the cover. Just a little bit of oil loss but better then draining it to take a peak!

 

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[made2care]

Took the plunge! Every shop should have one of these. Only paid $200 .

[RDawson]

Took the plunge! Every shop should have one of these. Only paid $200 .

 

Very handy piece of equipment. Great for everything from engines to loading heavy things in the truck.

[made2care]

How much does my engine weigh? I'm suspecting 2-300 lbs?

Edited March 23, 2019 by made2care

[snyper316]

How much does my engine weigh? I'm suspecting 2-300 lbs?

Well I'm going to guess our frames are around 150lbs think maybe 75lbs per wheel... So 300 might be close give or take a few lbs.

 

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[Venturous Randy]

You have to keep in mind these bikes have about 300 pounds of wiring.

Randy

[made2care]

You have to keep in mind these bikes have about 300 pounds of wiring.

Randy

Lol

[BlueSky]

According to this video, the engine weighs in excess of 100 kgs or 220 lbs.

 

[bongobobny]

More than I can pick up by myself...

[made2care]

Crane assembled. Carbs out! I'm enjoying every minute of this !! This bike is a beast !!

[HermanK84VR]

Hi Made2Care

 

just bought a 88 1300 had it shipped weight was 225lbs including a makeshift pallet

 

Cant go wrong with an engine Hoist it is one those pieces of equipment that does not get used alot but sure is handy when you need it.

 

FYI do you have an Engine stand? stay posted I have figured out a way to mount these V4's securely to an Automotive engine stand just need to build the adapter.

 

I will post it in the tech section with pics once the frost is off the steel.

 

Hermank84VR

[made2care]

Hi Made2Care

 

just bought a 88 1300 had it shipped weight was 225lbs including a makeshift pallet

 

Cant go wrong with an engine Hoist it is one those pieces of equipment that does not get used alot but sure is handy when you need it.

 

FYI do you have an Engine stand? stay posted I have figured out a way to mount these V4's securely to an Automotive engine stand just need to build the adapter.

 

I will post it in the tech section with pics once the frost is off the steel.

 

Hermank84VR

Thanks, might need one.

Here is a pic of my frame I just received. Appears as though it has been welded. I will get it sandblasted, then reinforce, then paint. What do u guys think of the welded areas? Cowpuc and Randy, please chime in as well. Thank you.

Edited March 26, 2019 by made2care

[Venturous Randy]

There is no doubt to me that someone has done some welding on it. The trick is how much penetration did the welds have? If I were in your position, I would still weld the rods in to do a better triangulation to add a lot more resistance to flex. I used 3/8 rod, but even if you used 1/4 inch rod, it would make a big difference.

If you go back and look at where my failure points were, it is not in the gussets where most of the welding on yours has been done. And to me, when I look at the comparison, I highly suspect that frame has failed and has been pulled back in place and re-welded.

Again, take a close look at the pictures I posted and compare them to yours.

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?1521-83-Broken-frame

Randy

Edited March 26, 2019 by Venturous Randy

[made2care]

There is no doubt to me that someone has done some welding on it. The trick is how much penetration did the welds have? If I were in your position, I would still weld the rods in to do a better triangulation to add a lot more resistance to flex. I used 3/8 rod, but even if you used 1/4 inch rod, it would make a big difference.

If you go back and look at where my failure points were, it is not in the gussets where most of the welding on yours has been done. And to me, when I look at the comparison, I highly suspect that frame has failed and has been pulled back in place and re-welded.

Again, take a close look at the pictures I posted and compare them to yours.

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?1521-83-Broken-frame

Randy

First of all, thank you for responding! I was examining your pics last night. I will print them off and take it to my welder. So bracing it will be sufficient? I will have him check the frame and current welds too.

Edited March 26, 2019 by made2care

[Argo]

made2care,

 

I have seen worst on the welding.

That being stated, I would look closer at the weld in the second picture.

The bead in the lower RH corner may have a crack in the center of the weld bead.

Could be just a scrape, scratch or the way the light hits it but definitely warrants further investigation.

 

The bead on the upper corner of the gusset in the third picture really needs to be finished better.

Reduces the chance of something catching on the sharp corner and area to have dirt etc. build up and start corrosion.

 

Argo

[cowpuc]

Maddy,, I did a fair amount of scratch and dent insurance buy ups with scoots while in the bike business thru the years. One of the things I learned early on in that side of the buy/sell business was that bike frames are a strange critter in that it does not really take much to tweek em. Something I always did to check for frame squareness on a salvage, when possible, was to have another person ride the bike toward me while I laid down on the pavement and looked down the axis of the wheels and check alignment. Slight "Dog tracking" is really easy to see with the naked eye by doing so and discounting hugely for bent frames was not uncommon. Of course, another way of checking (and the best way) for the same is to have a naked frame and place it in a frame jig.

If I were going to build on that frame and did not have a frame jig to double check the persons work (and, looking at those welds , I would definitely want to check the persons work) I would hang the forks on it and the swing arm w/ wheel so it was a "Roller" and I would at a minimum roll it and look down the axis of the wheels and check the best I could for proper alignment before I proceeded on into redoing the welding. You could also use the string method for checking alignment by working with a naked frame.

 

Concerning the welds themselves. Like Randy mentioned, I too see a fair amount "Goose Poop" (a term welders in the Trades would use to describe a weld that definitely needed a redo) due to obvious lack of penetration. Even the welds that do not have the classic Goose Poop look appear (IMHO) to have a fair amount of undercutting which is also not good as undercutting often is where a new tear will begin. I think I would set up an Air Arc or grab a side winder (right angle grinder) and carefully remove that nasty stuff. If the frame shows promise as far as alignment goes, I would leave just enough weld as "tach weld" to keep everything in place and then after finishing cleaning it up with a grinder I would Mig in the bad welds.

 

I would also do some gusseting to add strength but in the process of doing so, the puddle that I would be running hot at the end of my Mig gun would also be checking frame thickness cause I really don't care much for what rust can do to frame wall thickness..

[Flyinfool]

WAY BACK when I was racing stock cars, at the beginning of the season during the tech/safety inspections they always checked the thickness of the tubing used to make the roll cages. They did this by drilling a 1/8 inch dia hole and using a short rod with a hook on the end to reach in to hole and hook the back side of the wall and then measure how mush rod was sticking out. This may be a way to check to see how much internal corrosion you have in that area. The frame can rust out from the inside and still look wonderful on the outside until it fails.

 

I never looked close at a naked frame, As long as it is out and naked how hard would it be to completely seal it so that there can be no internal corrosion. Whenever I build something structural I always seal weld everything to prevent corrosion from disassembling it over time. If it is not appropriate to seal weld everything air tight I will at least fully caulk it to get as close as possible to the same effect. If no Oxygen can get to the bare inside metal then further oxidation is not possible.

[Venturous Randy]

I hate to say it, but for what you have in that frame, which I highly suspect was broken and poorly fixed, you could have done what I suggested and fixed your own frame, and you would have known what you had. Also you would not have to change everything over. I would be tempted to contact the person you got the frame from and let them know you did not expect to get a frame that had been repaired. and I think poorly at that.

Now, if you are going to pull the motor to swap frames, are you going to do anything about 2nd gear while the motor is out? I am trying to help you, not give you a hard time. One other thing, I highly doubt that rust had anything to do with your frame breaking. I suspect that the two reasons were Yamaha's poor welding to begin with and someone spinning the bike around while it was on the center stand.

Randy