cowpuc Posted May 30, 2019 #426 Posted May 30, 2019 Okay, cases are back together. Note to others, I used a small crafts type brush made of horse hair to apply yama bond. I only applied a thin layer to the upper case being careful to stay 2 mm from bearing edges. The small brush made application pretty neat and easy. Bearing retainers are in, along with oil pump and oil pan. Used new o rings , seals and of course Oem gasket which I dry fitted. Before I buttoned everything up, I made sure the transmission shifted through all gears. Gear lash appears fine with very slight movement. So far a great learning experience. I've decided to not paint any parts since most of these are covered anyway. More work planned for tomorrow! If you change your mind on painting the cases, years ago I hammered out a VERY close combination paint/clear coat application that is/was very close to OEM on Mini-Trail restores (show bikes).. Be glad to look back in shop notes and let you know what I came up with back then if you want to try some testing with the combo of your own.. LOOKING GR8 there Maddy,, JUST AWESOME!! she's gonna be a DANDY!!
Prairiehammer Posted May 30, 2019 #427 Posted May 30, 2019 Seeing your engine sitting there on the lift/bench, with the starter motor out there in the open, reminded me to mention swapping out the original two brush motor for a four brush starting motor. Easy peasey at this point in your project. BTW, I have a Yamaha four brush motor for sale. (hint)
cowpuc Posted May 30, 2019 #428 Posted May 30, 2019 Seeing your engine sitting there on the lift/bench, with the starter motor out there in the open, reminded me to mention swapping out the original two brush motor for a four brush starting motor. Easy peasey at this point in your project. BTW, I have a Yamaha four brush motor for sale. (hint) :sign yeah that: or at a minimum, pull the starter apart and clean the dust off of the armature (I have always had good luck with the OEM 2 brush starters if I keep em clean). I think I would also double check the stater and make sure it has been updated and tests good. Also may as well check the water pump - if its an 83 - to see if it has the updated impellar. Could pull the cam covers, do a valve lash check and prelube the journals for start up too and drop in some new gaskets on top.. Make er ready to roll. GOOD point @Prairiehammer!!!
Flyinfool Posted May 30, 2019 #429 Posted May 30, 2019 even if you do not want to spend the money right now for the 4 brush, which is the best option. Cleaning it out as Puc mentioned and doing the ground wire mod are basically no cost options to make the 2 brush better than it was. Regardless of which starter you use it is a big help to change the stock power and ground cables from the wimpy stock #8AWG wire to a #4AWG welding wire. It would be a lot easier to snake the new wires thru now with no engine in the way.
made2care Posted May 30, 2019 Author #430 Posted May 30, 2019 :sign yeah that: or at a minimum, pull the starter apart and clean the dust off of the armature (I have always had good luck with the OEM 2 brush starters if I keep em clean). I think I would also double check the stater and make sure it has been updated and tests good. Also may as well check the water pump - if its an 83 - to see if it has the updated impellar. Could pull the cam covers, do a valve lash check and prelube the journals for start up too and drop in some new gaskets on top.. Make er ready to roll. GOOD point Prairiehammer!!! Water pump has updated impellar . I will clean the starter. Will also check the stator. Thanks for the reminders.
made2care Posted May 31, 2019 Author #431 Posted May 31, 2019 Good thing I took starter apart!! Filthy !!
Prairiehammer Posted May 31, 2019 #432 Posted May 31, 2019 Good thing I took starter apart!! Filthy !! RUSTY! Usually the dirt inside is carbon from the brushes. The amount of rust showing would make me nervous about reusing it. The field magnets have been exposed to a lot of high moisture conditions. When the magnets begin to rust, they often start to spall. The consequence is either shorted armature or a severely dragging starter due to the rust and fragments wedged between the field magnets and the armature.
made2care Posted May 31, 2019 Author #433 Posted May 31, 2019 (edited) I managed to remove quite a bit of the rust. Hopefully it will work!! Or maybe I should just get e new one. Anyone purchased a new replacement? Can't seem to find one. Edited May 31, 2019 by made2care
made2care Posted May 31, 2019 Author #434 Posted May 31, 2019 RUSTY! Usually the dirt inside is carbon from the brushes. The amount of rust showing would make me nervous about reusing it. The field magnets have been exposed to a lot of high moisture conditions. When the magnets begin to rust, they often start to spall. The consequence is either shorted armature or a severely dragging starter due to the rust and fragments wedged between the field magnets and the armature. I think you are correct here. Even though i cleaned it, I had no idea that the rust would cause issues. i found a replacement using a RSV and it should bolt right on.
made2care Posted June 1, 2019 Author #435 Posted June 1, 2019 Went with brand new vmax. Crucial parts on this bike should be new if possible. Even though I tried to rebuild this one, the more I thought about it, better to get new and 4 brush. Didn't test this one but just too much rust!! i am not selling this bike when I'm done !! And I hope it will run!!
Geobob Posted June 1, 2019 #436 Posted June 1, 2019 Man you have the "I want to keep this bike running" sickness bad. You will fit right in with this bunch of nuts. Most of us keep these bike running because we have had them for so long and grown to really like them. They pretty much work as good as any of the new bikes and looking at my 88 parked next to my 09 Vision I really don't see "new bike and old bike". They both look impressive and capable of doing just what they were built to do. As far as taking apart the motor to fix 2nd gear wow that is a big job. Every time I work on mine I think about how much I would not want to try and pull that motor. I think I would go buy another bike first. There are so many in good or great condition and so little demand for them that the price is typically good. I picked up an V65 years ago for $150. It had a lot of issues but I always wanted one and thought I could put this thing back together. After way more work than I should have put in I got to the bottom of my 1/4 mile long down hill driveway and found out the clutch was bad. Got that fixed and eventually found out my 2nd gear was bad. The V4 motor is not and easy one to work on and it was cheaper ($200) to buy and new motor and swap them out. Even that was a big job. You basically had to pull the bike up off the motor. Just remembering where everything goes and how lines run is nuts. I actually had to go look at and video tape a friends bike since the manual did not really explain how everything went back together. I had to laugh yesterday when I finally got my front and back end back on the bike and looked at the tray of leftovers. Only about 1/2 dozen fasteners left over. I figured that was pretty good. After replacing the break lines and calipers I now have a back break that does not seem to work real good and a front that still feels like it way to soft but that a matter for another thread. Good luck and happy to help if possible.
made2care Posted June 2, 2019 Author #437 Posted June 2, 2019 This is sad !! https://springfield.craigslist.org/mpo/d/springfield-1983-yamaha-venture-1200/6893740802.html
made2care Posted June 2, 2019 Author #438 Posted June 2, 2019 (edited) Not being familiar with clutch parts I did notice this plate and no clutch springs. So this plate has replaced the springs. Will the torque be the same for the clutch screws, manual says 8 nm. Edited June 4, 2019 by made2care
made2care Posted June 4, 2019 Author #439 Posted June 4, 2019 Neutral switch came in. Easy Peazy "switch ". This little guy cost $22 but hey, whose keeping track. I enjoy this and know one day, this bike will be putting on the miles!
made2care Posted June 5, 2019 Author #440 Posted June 5, 2019 There is a retaining wire that holds the first metal clutch plate in place. This wire is broken. Do i need to get another or can i go without it. thanks
RDawson Posted June 5, 2019 #441 Posted June 5, 2019 There's a 1/2 clutch plate in there too. With the upgrade Skydoc sells you do away with the wire and put a full plate in place of the 1/2 and with PCW diaphragm spring the clutch will hook up at all speeds.
BlueSky Posted June 5, 2019 #442 Posted June 5, 2019 There's a 1/2 clutch plate in there too. With the upgrade Skydoc sells you do away with the wire and put a full plate in place of the 1/2 and with PCW diaphragm spring the clutch will hook up at all speeds. From what I've read though, eliminating the 1/2 clutch plate also decreases the distance the clutch lever can be moved to engage or disengage. So, it will be harder to slip the clutch.
RDawson Posted June 5, 2019 #443 Posted June 5, 2019 It does change the friction zone somewhat. I have it in both my bikes and wouldn't change back, especially pulling the trailer. The biggest problem I've had was 1-1/2 hrs of stop n go thru Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge, I think my left forearm was twice the size of my right from pulling the clutch.
made2care Posted June 7, 2019 Author #444 Posted June 7, 2019 New starter arrived! Easy plug and play. Had to order clutch plate retaining wire. Left side is buttoned up.
made2care Posted June 12, 2019 Author #445 Posted June 12, 2019 Finally turned engine right side up. Checked valve clearances and just 2 were in spec , so time to fix that! Taking a break though. Vacation time for me , will get back at it upon my return.
made2care Posted June 12, 2019 Author #446 Posted June 12, 2019 Well, the wife is packing for our trip. You know how that goes!! Since I packed my bag in 5 minutes ( 50 pairs of underwear and a few t shirts) I wandered into the garage and I heard a voice say, " hey, install that pretty new fuel pump real quick !" So..... I did!
made2care Posted June 17, 2019 Author #447 Posted June 17, 2019 Here is skydoc's( earl) kit I used to fix valve clearance. Shims were easy to remove and replace with correct ones. I did end up having to order an odd size on one- 265 and a few 270's as the kit did not include those. Those should be here in a few days. I'm getting excited as I am near the big day of transplanting the engine to its better/ new frame.
made2care Posted June 21, 2019 Author #448 Posted June 21, 2019 Well, after a few hrs and taking about 3 breaks to vent my frustration, I managed to get the engine married to its new frame. I just lifted the frame over the engine. Lots of tweaking and I must admit, this was a pain in the ars but I somehow managed to get it. Whew!! What a relief!
Freebird Posted June 21, 2019 #449 Posted June 21, 2019 Really enjoying watching this build. I can remember when I would have enjoyed doing it. Now I just enjoy watching YOU do it.
snyper316 Posted June 21, 2019 #450 Posted June 21, 2019 This is sad !! https://springfield.craigslist.org/mpo/d/springfield-1983-yamaha-venture-1200/6893740802.html DAMNNNN Thats in Springfield TOO!!! wished I had a trailer big enuff I would so grab that right away, My son wants to see a chopper build out of these bikes I just could not bring myself to do it to Tinker or Riva.... Well, the wife is packing for our trip. You know how that goes!! Since I packed my bag in 5 minutes ( 50 pairs of underwear and a few t shirts) I wandered into the garage and I heard a voice say, " hey, install that pretty new fuel pump real quick !" So..... I did! I hate when that happens. But hell can't help it when they start talking to you! Really enjoying watching this build. I can remember when I would have enjoyed doing it. Now I just enjoy watching YOU do it. Your Just getting OLD!!!:backinmyday:
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