made2care Posted April 28, 2019 Author #376 Posted April 28, 2019 I'm excited about this and looking forward to testing this bikes potential!! Lots of work ahead of me and fortunately in about a month I will be off from work for almost 3 months. This is going to be a great learning experience for me too!!
Prairiehammer Posted April 30, 2019 #377 Posted April 30, 2019 I have a complete gear set from a 1986 1300. Will drop right into your 1983. Yours if you want for $30 plus shipping.
cowpuc Posted April 30, 2019 #378 Posted April 30, 2019 I have a complete gear set from a 1986 1300. Will drop right into your 1983. Yours if you want for $30 plus shipping. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=116293https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=116294 Hey Kev,, IMHO - ya know what would be really really cool? If someday you were looking for something to do, you would take that last picture that shows the complete tranny and draw lines/arrows on it pointing to the locations of: 1. Thrust washer that wears on the Mk1's that causes 2nd gear failure. 2. 2nd gear "ramps/engagement dogs" that suffer wear because of the loss of tolerance do to the thrust washer failure.. What say you my brother @Prairiehammer?
Prairiehammer Posted April 30, 2019 #379 Posted April 30, 2019 Do these pics help describe the problem, @cowpuc ?
cowpuc Posted April 30, 2019 #380 Posted April 30, 2019 Do these pics help describe the problem, cowpuc ? https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=116296https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=116297https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=116298https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=116299https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=116300https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=116301https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=116302https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=116303https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=116304 Absolutely PERFECTLY @Prairiehammer!! PERFECTLY! Now maybe combine those with that pic of the complete tranny arrowed out and then we petition @Marcarl or the Boss (@Freebird) to stick em in the read only library (if they arent already there) for future reference?? As always Kev,, YOU DO NICE WORK:thumbsup:!! THANK YOU MY BROTHER!!! Puc
mlgower Posted April 30, 2019 #381 Posted April 30, 2019 I'm excited about this and looking forward to testing this bikes potential!! Lots of work ahead of me and fortunately in about a month I will be off from work for almost 3 months. This is going to be a great learning experience for me too!! Sounds like you work for a school district.
made2care Posted May 1, 2019 Author #382 Posted May 1, 2019 (edited) I still need to read through some articles and shop manual but do i need to remove the clutch assembly (plates,rods,etc) in order to change out the gears? Remember, this is all new territory for me. Edited May 2, 2019 by made2care
gaj1917 Posted May 1, 2019 #383 Posted May 1, 2019 When I did my 2nd gear repair I replaced the clutch springs and plates with new Barnett brand ones. Made a world of difference as I was experiencing some slippage before. Often times though, just replacing the springs will suffice.
Prairiehammer Posted May 2, 2019 #384 Posted May 2, 2019 (edited) I still need to read through some articles and shop manual but do i need to remove the clutch assembly (plates,rods,etc) in order to change out the gears? Remember, this is all new territory for me. Yes. The clutch assembly is bolted to the main transmission axle. You will have to remove the clutch assembly from the main axle in order to transfer it to the new main axle. Since the clutch basket is secured to the main axle with a big nut, requiring substantial torque to loosen, it is best done prior to splitting the cases. Edited May 2, 2019 by Prairiehammer
made2care Posted May 2, 2019 Author #385 Posted May 2, 2019 Yes. The clutch assembly is bolted to the main transmission axle. You will have to remove the clutch assembly from the main axle in order to transfer it to the new main axle. Since the clutch basket is secured to the main axle with a big nut, requiring substantial torque to loosen, it is best done prior to splitting the cases. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=116323 That's what I needed to know . Thank you
made2care Posted May 5, 2019 Author #386 Posted May 5, 2019 I worked almost the entire day yesterday and I finally split the cases. I painstakingly bagged all parts and labeled everything. My shop manual and article here guided me through. Here are some pics !
gaj1917 Posted May 5, 2019 #387 Posted May 5, 2019 Outstanding! Not so bad is it. If you plan to install the -hammer's '87 transmission, you will need to retain your '83 middle gear components. Otherwise I believe you'll get into gear lash problems. Someone here with more insight may have another thought on that.
made2care Posted May 10, 2019 Author #388 Posted May 10, 2019 Here is a side by side of the shift fork tumblers ( believe that's what it's called). The one on the right is off my 83, u can clearly see the little pins on end that could be problematic, since some have reported they can fall out. The tumbler on the left is what Randy sent me and I believe it's out of a 93?. Anyway, no pins as Yamaha later made the end one piece.
Prairiehammer Posted May 10, 2019 #389 Posted May 10, 2019 Here is a side by side of the shift fork tumblers ( believe that's what it's called). The one on the right is off my 83, u can clearly see the little pins on end that could be problematic, since some have reported they can fall out. The tumbler on the left is what Randy sent me and I believe it's out of a 93?. Anyway, no pins as Yamaha later made the end one piece. Actually, the newer style shift cam segment appeared for the first time on the 1998 XVZ13 and the 1999 VMX. While your shift cam from Randy may indeed have come from a 1993 XVZ, it had been upgraded after the 1993 Venture was manufactured. The newer style shift cam segment DOES have pins. The pins are captured by the one piece segment versus the sheet metal side plate on the old version. Sometimes the ears on the old side plate became bent outward, allowing the pin to fall out.
made2care Posted May 10, 2019 Author #390 Posted May 10, 2019 Interesting. Man, I hope I can put all of this back together. Tons of parts !!
cowpuc Posted May 10, 2019 #391 Posted May 10, 2019 Interesting. Man, I hope I can put all of this back together. Tons of parts !! ,, I know,, dont cha just LOVE IT!! It's like a great big 3D jigsaw puzzle that, when finished, and if ya get er right = ya get to go out and CTFW on it ... Life as a gearhead is indescribeably delicious You'll get er done Maddy,,, we're all rootin for ya!!!
made2care Posted May 11, 2019 Author #392 Posted May 11, 2019 ,, I know,, dont cha just LOVE IT!! It's like a great big 3D jigsaw puzzle that, when finished, and if ya get er right = ya get to go out and CTFW on it ... Life as a gearhead is indescribeably delicious You'll get er done Maddy,,, we're all rootin for ya!!! Puc, thank you so much for responding. Still thinking about you . I believe I've ordered all the correct gaskets and seals. The new gears fit in nicely, next up is the cleaning and prep to close her back up. I did notice that between the upper and lower crankcase there will be no gasket, so i will just use yamabond 5 adhesive. Glad to hear from you.
Venturous Randy Posted May 11, 2019 #393 Posted May 11, 2019 I am so glad that you chose to do the 2nd gear fix while you have the engine out, rather than putting it back together after fixing the frame. Just remember, this is like eating an elephant, which is just one bite at a time and you are definitely gnawing on this one. Randy
made2care Posted May 11, 2019 Author #394 Posted May 11, 2019 I am so glad that you chose to do the 2nd gear fix while you have the engine out, rather than putting it back together after fixing the frame. Just remember, this is like eating an elephant, which is just one bite at a time and you are definitely gnawing on this one. Randy I'm actually enjoying this. As long as everything goes according to plan. Here's a pic of original fork with obvious wear on sides. I did forget to swap the fork rods so will go back and change those. I'm sure those are bent since this fork is beat up! Thanks for pointing out to check sides of fork.
cowpuc Posted May 11, 2019 #395 Posted May 11, 2019 I'm actually enjoying this. As long as everything goes according to plan. Here's a pic of original fork with obvious wear on sides. I did forget to swap the fork rods so will go back and change those. I'm sure those are bent since this fork is beat up! Thanks for pointing out to check sides of fork. Looks like somebodies been riding around with his toe resting on the shift lever
made2care Posted May 11, 2019 Author #396 Posted May 11, 2019 Quick question. Does the oil pump idle gear have to engage with a gear wheel? Or does it sit snug to the crankcase wall not engaged with gear wheel.
gaj1917 Posted May 11, 2019 #397 Posted May 11, 2019 It’s been awhile since I repaired my 2nd gear, but I recall having to fiddle with that wheel as we dropped the bottom case onto the upper, so that it engaged a wheel on the transmission - I believe it was the 1st gear wheel but could be wrong. Anyway, make a trial run dropping the lower case onto the upper and you’ll see where things have to mess. BTW, dropping that lower case is a two-person job to make sure the shift forks drop into the correct slots.
Venturous Randy Posted May 11, 2019 #398 Posted May 11, 2019 (edited) Also, make sure the pins that are on the bearings are set to rest in the slots made for them. You can see one of the slots just to the left and up some on your picture with the felt tip pin. As far as the score marks on the forks, this is usually from the fork tips being bent some from 2nd gear kicking back against them, and even someone trying to hold it in 2nd gear when they shifted. This is why I felt it was important to get all the transmission parts, including forks and fork shafts and not just replace the gear shafts. Randy Edited May 11, 2019 by Venturous Randy
made2care Posted May 11, 2019 Author #399 Posted May 11, 2019 Also, make sure the pins that are on the bearings are set to rest in the slots made for them. You can see one of the slots just to the left and up some on your picture with the felt tip pin. As far as the score marks on the forks, this is usually from the fork tips being bent some from 2nd gear kicking back against them, and even someone trying to hold it in 2nd gear when they shifted. This is why I felt it was important to get all the transmission parts, including forks and fork shafts and not just replace the gear shafts. Randy Yes, i'm paying close attention to those pins on bearings and as far as the forks go, great idea. I have more and more questions. I've noticed that there are two bearing circlips that are just half moons so i'm assuming these fit half on upper and half on lower crankcase or maybe it doesn't matter. The big bearing does have a full circlip around it. Also, I am shifting through the gears with them sitting in the lower crankcase, seems not all gears are shifting but maybe its just the way i'm trying to shift them.All forks are in their respective slots too.
made2care Posted May 12, 2019 Author #400 Posted May 12, 2019 Okay, I went back and shifted again through each gear and no issues. I have cleaned off some the old gaskets and still have quite a bit left to remove. some more questions: do I oil/grease the outer surface of all bearings. Also, shop manual shows I must oil interior/ inside of bearings. What oil or grease do I use? Or do I just oil them?heres a pics of upper crankcase with old gasket removed.
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