Rectifier / Regulator for 89

[cptriker1]

I've been gone for sometime from the board but just today fixed an issue and wanted to make a post.

 

When driving I was showing 12V and when I used the brake it'd drop to 8V! In the past I had an issue with the wire at the fuse box but a check showed that wasn't the case. A voltage check showed 12v. Quick research pointed to RR or Stator.

 

Following steps for checking and shows the RR failed 2 checks when checking the diodes. Stator checked ok with no grounding or major variations on the windings.

 

I ordered a replacement ($38) on ebay but it had the brown wire that's not needed on the 89. I read it was OK to use so I took a chance.

 

I got the unit and cut the white (stator) wires and solder them. DO THIS! Do NOT skimp here.

 

I didn't need to remove the brown wire as the plug accepts it no issues which was my biggest concern.

 

However, I had to tap the mounting holes. But it fits perfectly! I'm pleased to report that the voltage is the STRONGEST I've ever seen!

 

If your voltage dips to 12 or lower check it right away. I wish I had sooner.

 

Metric Tap & Die Kit from Harbor Freight.

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[cowpuc]

GOOD ON YA CP!!!! WECOME BACK AND THANK YOU FOR SHARING!!

@Freebird,, off to the 1st Gen Tech library with this one? What say you?

[Patch]

It fit perfectly but not the mounting?

 

Would it now be the case that future replacement stators would need to be that brand only?

[cptriker1]

It fit perfectly but not the mounting?

 

Would it now be the case that future replacement stators would need to be that brand only?

 

I've purchased parts from these guys before (brake pads and additionals) while searching for the RR on eBay. They answered emails quickly so I took a shot to get this unit even with it having the brown wire that my bike doesn't require. The OEM RR that I removed didn't have the brown wire. But, I read in another post that having the brown wire isn't necessary IF your bike doesn't have it. I've already put a couple of hundred miles on the bike since my original post and that voltage is sitting so perfect it's scarey!!! The only time I see it drop is at idle and it's still above 12V unlike what I've been dealing with from the bad RR I removed.

 

I only changed the RR. I did a full test on the stator and it was not showing it was grounded to the frame nor was there a great variance when doing the AC test with bike on at 1,000 RPM (idle) as was specified in another post about how to check the stator and the RR.

 

When it came in the box it was a perfect fit to the OEM RR that was on the bike. I removed the left rear footrest and then removing the two Phillips screws (#3) holding the RR. The replacement RR required that I tap the mounting holes on the the screws. After that, I had to take the two bolts holding the fuel pump so I could move it around for me to maneuver the RR back to its home. There was no additional work required after getting it mounted other than bolting the fuel pump back in place.

 

I recommend that you put Never-Seize on the screws for the RR! I know that I was SO HAPPY they came out so easily but I sure wasn't going to take that chance in the future...best to prevent problems NOW than later.

[Patch]

Thanks for taking the time to clear that up. The way I read it I thought you modified the stator not just tap the RR mounting!

 

I am a believer in your bike your way almost always. My thinking was along the lines should the stator fail on a trip and a replacement order, what or how could we help or what would it take to get it back on the road..!

 

Its a win