RDawson Posted January 10, 2019 #1 Posted January 10, 2019 I've been reading a lot of old posts about brake pads. I'm thinking HH fronts but seeing the organic s on rear to slow the lock ups as a god thing. NOW the big question since I have a Nexen tire ordered to try darksiding will the organic or the HH pair up better with the braking power of the tire? Lots of posts about tires. Lots of posts about brakes. Haven't found a post about brakes on the dark side. I'll be two up a lot with a trailer some so the braking may be fairly important sometimes. Anyone with experience on this?
BlueSky Posted January 10, 2019 #2 Posted January 10, 2019 I think the HH pads are metallic, not semi-metallic and they will wear out the rotor fastest. The organic pads sound like a good idea to me for the rear of a RSV due to the strong performance of the rear brake.
Flyinfool Posted January 10, 2019 #3 Posted January 10, 2019 I would do some simple testing. Once you get your new tire installed and a couple of hundred miles on it for break in, try hitting just the rear brake with your stock organic pads and see if that is enough to lock it up. Also practice some full panic stops. If the rear starts to lock up just get off the brakes quick. Do this one up and the bike not loaded. You can then try it again fully loaded. These tests will tell you if the rear is still plenty or if you need to upgrade. The worst case scenario for locking up the rear will be unloaded one up in a panic stop where there is a big weight transfer to the front wheel and nothing holding the rear down. This is where it is easiest to lock the rear and end up in big trouble.
videoarizona Posted January 10, 2019 #4 Posted January 10, 2019 That was my problem. In an emergency, with the weight transfer forward and Yamaha putting a huge rear caliper on the RSV...she locks up immediately. Practice helps, but in an emergency...your foot overrules practice and she locks up. I've been thinking of going soft with the next pads, but have a feeling that might make it worse. I wish I had an answer to give...because the only thing that kept me alive was my reflexes, getting off the rear brake so quickly I didn't end up high siding at 75mph. Sadly, the reflexes get worse as we age....and I still haven't found a smaller rear caliper that bolts on to the RSV. I don't have a machine shop to adapt my own. [/color]
RDawson Posted January 10, 2019 Author #5 Posted January 10, 2019 Yep y'all see my issue. Most of my local time is one up, I don't use much rear brake then. Long trips are usually two up and some of those will be towing. Having a good rear brake in all three of these times will be nearly impossible. Having a car tire I know helps with lockup with extra traction, I was hoping to hear from someone who has been down this road before. And yes the reflexes can get us in trouble quick, we got sideways on the slab due to a cage changing lanes beside us recently. I had to act like it was no big deal to keep the wife happy.
djh3 Posted January 12, 2019 #6 Posted January 12, 2019 I have run a set of the "carbon fiber" pads I think they call them. At first it felt funny, I didnt pay much attention to that they were primarily a pad used on sport bikes. What that meant was they had to have heat to work to full capacity. So one up in around unless using a lot of brake they took a little warming up so not a lot of grab initially.
Patch Posted January 12, 2019 #7 Posted January 12, 2019 I've read this a couple times now on the forum about the Gen 2s having lockup? Hmm I haven't given it much thought but, fist that comes to mind ii mechanical leverage, second is volume. Thinking along with you all I would first lower my peddle which for me would take some getting use to as I am very dependent on my peddle being quick to respond. I would be then, taking that feedback to determine what I might change at the slave? Meaning I would be looking to dampen hydraulic pressure via volume. There's more than one way to do so one way would be to fit an older gen slave? Another would be to shorten travel of the slaves piston in effect reducing displacement! The spring would then compensate for the shorten push. Let me know what you think about.... page: 7-27
RDawson Posted January 12, 2019 Author #8 Posted January 12, 2019 I've read this a couple times now on the forum about the Gen 2s having lockup? Hmm I haven't given it much thought but, fist that comes to mind ii mechanical leverage, second is volume. Thinking along with you all I would first lower my peddle which for me would take some getting use to as I am very dependent on my peddle being quick to respond. I would be then, taking that feedback to determine what I might change at the slave? Meaning I would be looking to dampen hydraulic pressure via volume. There's more than one way to do so one way would be to fit an older gen slave? Another would be to shorten travel of the slaves piston in effect reducing displacement! The spring would then compensate for the shorten push. Let me know what you think about.... page: 7-27 There are a couple of very good write ups in the read only library of using a proportioning valve to meter the fluid movement (Rick Butler mod). I'm just throwing a few more curves in the issue with a car tire and trailer. Finding one answer to the many riding options will never happen. The more educated I am on the issue may help make the best decision though. Two piston caliper, proportioning valve, less grip in the pads, or a mix of some or all these may be the best answer. The more people I hear from with experience along these lines helps my thinking a lot.
Patch Posted January 12, 2019 #9 Posted January 12, 2019 There are a couple of very good write ups in the read only library of using a proportioning valve to meter the fluid movement (Rick Butler mod). I'm just throwing a few more curves in the issue with a car tire and trailer. Finding one answer to the many riding options will never happen. The more educated I am on the issue may help make the best decision though. Two piston caliper, proportioning valve, less grip in the pads, or a mix of some or all these may be the best answer. The more people I hear from with experience along these lines helps my thinking a lot. I haven't read it but yes you can modulate time, pressure so resulting in volume displacement. Some are adjustable which would let you tweak to suit. You might lookup Pascals theory to use as a directional beacon, this may shed some light. My MK2 had no issues with lockup at all, running the stock setup.
djh3 Posted January 13, 2019 #10 Posted January 13, 2019 My last couple race cars we could run a proportioning valve to adjust pressure to rear brakes. Prior to that when I ran street stocks modifications were not allowed, so had to work a different route. One way was we would allow some air in the rear brake system when bleeding it out. The other way we would reduce the size of the rear brake lines by flattening them. Not recommended on the bike.
BlueSky Posted January 13, 2019 #11 Posted January 13, 2019 I haven't read it but yes you can modulate time, pressure so resulting in volume displacement. Some are adjustable which would let you tweak to suit. You might lookup Pascals theory to use as a directional beacon, this may shed some light. My MK2 had no issues with lockup at all, running the stock setup. Mk2s have linked brakes and are totally different from a Gen 2. Gen 2s do not have linked brakes and the rear brake is very powerful.
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