BlueSky Posted December 30, 2018 #1 Posted December 30, 2018 I have to pull the clutch lever in all the way to get the clutch to disengage. Is that normal for the 2nd Gens? Also, I went for a ride yesterday on my Kawasaki to wash the carbs and then I went for a ride on my RSV. When I pulled in the clutch lever and put it in 1st gear, the engine died. So, I checked the clutch MC for fluid and it was low. I had checked it a while back and the reservoir was overfilled so I have a leak. After filling the MC, the clutch worked and I went for a ride. I've owned 3 bikes with a hydraulic clutch and all 3 have had leaking slave cylinders when I bought them....
videoarizona Posted December 30, 2018 #2 Posted December 30, 2018 Nope. Not normal. Does sound like you have a leak... It's a simple trace.....not much to the system. Follow the clutch line down along the frame to the slave cylinder area. looking for fluid. The most likely place is the slave cylinder...may have the oil seal that's died and leaking fluid. Although where it would go is a mystery to me as it's bolted to the engine block. If it's wet under the area where the clutch slave is...between the large stator cover and the smaller intermediate gear cover, on the left side, then your problem is there. If your slave is original, and you have some miles...it's worth a rebuild or buy new. I bought new on my 1st gen. Same, same pretty much between the two. simple to replace...lots of articles and pictures...I have some in the 1st gen area. But follow the line looking for fluid at the junctions. If you got air in system when it ran low...then you will have to bleed the system. It can mimic low fluid with an air bubble....and cause clutch release issues.
MiCarl Posted December 30, 2018 #3 Posted December 30, 2018 If the slave is leaking it ends up running down the crank case (behind the middle gear cover) where it will eventually drip on the ground. Problem is it's hard to see because it's not much fluid, all the breather hoses are dumping gunk in the same area and road grime sticks to all of it.
Condor Posted December 30, 2018 #4 Posted December 30, 2018 I think I'd bleed the clutch and make sure you've got all the air out????
Rafterd Posted December 31, 2018 #5 Posted December 31, 2018 Yep, air in the system. Start with bleeding the master cylinder and work your way down. Don’t let the resovior go empty while doing it, or you’ll have to start over, slave cylinder last.
Du-Rron Posted January 3, 2019 #6 Posted January 3, 2019 I have to pull the clutch lever in all the way to get the clutch to disengage. Is that normal for the 2nd Gens? Also, I went for a ride yesterday on my Kawasaki to wash the carbs and then I went for a ride on my RSV. When I pulled in the clutch lever and put it in 1st gear, the engine died. So, I checked the clutch MC for fluid and it was low. I had checked it a while back and the reservoir was overfilled so I have a leak. After filling the MC, the clutch worked and I went for a ride. I've owned 3 bikes with a hydraulic clutch and all 3 have had leaking slave cylinders when I bought them.... If this is your 2007 RSV and you haven't rebuilt/replaced clutch hydraulic components yet or ever, now is the time to start sourcing parts. 1. Slave cylinder. (lots of folks just buy em new and save the rebuild hassle) 2. New hydraulic lines. (I believe someone here can even hook you up with some nice stainless steel braids) 3. Master Cylinder rebuild kit. Be brave... think about doing the brakes at this time too.
Graywulf Posted January 10, 2019 #7 Posted January 10, 2019 The slave cylinder went on Barney (2006) only 20k miles, (spent most of it's life standing) I went with a new one, and probably a good unknowing choice. When we looked inside the original had obviously 'dried out' and was quite badly scored up inside. Rebuild kit would have failed quickly/not worked.
BlueSky Posted April 17, 2019 Author #8 Posted April 17, 2019 As a follow-up to this thread, I did bleed the clutch line and the clutch disengages without pulling the lever in all the way now. I have not replaced the slave cylinder but it is on my list. However, if the bike is in gear with the clutch lever pulled in all the way, the bike still shuts off when I put the side stand down. Is that normal?
RDawson Posted April 17, 2019 #9 Posted April 17, 2019 As a follow-up to this thread, I did bleed the clutch line and the clutch disengages without pulling the lever in all the way now. I have not replaced the slave cylinder but it is on my list. However, if the bike is in gear with the clutch lever pulled in all the way, the bike still shuts off when I put the side stand down. Is that normal? Yes that's normal. Anytime the side stand is down in gear it kills the engine. It keeps you from taking off with the stand down. That's how I usually kill it when parking, pull up and kick the stand down and then turn off the key.
BlueSky Posted April 17, 2019 Author #10 Posted April 17, 2019 Yes that's normal. Anytime the side stand is down in gear it kills the engine. It keeps you from taking off with the stand down. That's how I usually kill it when parking, pull up and kick the stand down and then turn off the key. For some reason I thought that if the clutch was disengaged, dropping the side stand should not kill the engine. Either way is okay I suppose. Thanks
BratmanXj Posted April 17, 2019 #11 Posted April 17, 2019 For some reason I thought that if the clutch was disengaged, dropping the side stand should not kill the engine. Either way is okay I suppose. Thanks In gear with clutch pulled it will start. Side stand switch over-rides all other safety interlocks when in gear.
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