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Posted

I know my '06 is getting a little long in the tooth but I guess I should just shut the fuel off to be safe. For the second time in 12 years I've had the engine seize up from a hydrolock. Last time was about six years ago. Or was it something else??? When trying to start the bike yesterday it cranked about 1/2 a turn and bang. Instant stop. I knew exactly what happened. It's logical that leaking fuel would drain to the left rear cyl. when parked on the side stand, so I removed the rear two plugs, because they are easy but it still wouldn't crank. So I tried to bump it over in gear by pushing back and forth a little then it cranked over. Was the starter locked up??? Was there fuel in one or both of the front cyl's.??? Anyway once it started to crank, it blew out some fuel on the left rear cyl. And that plug was really wet too, just like six years ago. I put the plugs back in, checked the oil level, (no change) and it fired right up and ran fine. I use Sea Foam once or twice a year and usually don't have any problems. But I got out of the habit of shutting the fuel off after a ride a long time ago. Guess maybe I need to start doing that again.

Posted

The hydrolock will be in whichever cylinder(s) have a float valve not closing. Never a bad idea to turn the fuel valve off when sitting but that is only a band-aid. Best to service the carburetors too.

Posted
The hydrolock will be in whichever cylinder(s) have a float valve not closing. Never a bad idea to turn the fuel valve off when sitting but that is only a band-aid. Best to service the carburetors too.

 

You're right! I was thinking common intake but these have single carbs and intakes for each cyl. But but but servicing the carbs means work. Sea Foam is easy. I'll try that first.

Posted

A compression test would be interesting. If the compression is down on the cylinder that had gasoline in it, that would indicated the rod bent a little.

Posted
:2cents: cause I love my friends and dont wanna lose any.. If you are fooling with Hydrolock and decide to pull the plugs and spin the engine over to push the fuel out, always make sure your kill switch is off and be very careful you dont create spark so you dont end up with an instant flame thrower.. Personally, I like pulling the plugs, dropping it in gear and giving it a bump to spin the crank..
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I see the thread date but thought I may shed some light. 1st Puc is right. You can use compressed air or let it evap.

 

Next is there seems to be an unknown in this mix?

 

If the bike has been parked for long then the gas should have leaked past the rings - once the bowl is empty the volume has ceased (not so with a gravity feed) but because these are fed by pump.

 

Likely: What you have is a jammed float needle which - remained open during the start attempt, lets think that thru,

key on, kill to run, neutral switch to safe, fuel pump running till timed out, 3 carbs fill float needle closes 1 remains open filling the jug, hydro lock!

 

This is never a case to be ignored or solved with seafoam.

 

Is the repair required really or worth the effort? YES, every time!

 

Here is the long view, you will have 1 jug running richer to the point of running wet. This will ware down that set of ring, honing, increase taper and wrist pin/boss! Not to mention breaking down the crankcase oil.

 

Every long trip you will be able to measure a loss of jug life and compression.

 

geterdone ;)

Edited by Patch

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