1st Gen. Clutch Slave Cylinder.

[MiCarl]

I need to rebuild the clutch slave cylinder on my 89 VR. Parts should arrive tomorrow.

 

Does anyone know a trick to fish out the cylinder without pulling the middle gear cover?

[Dano]

Micarl, you have to pull the cover to get the screws out, they're 5mm allen heads. I picked up a set of 6" long ones with 3/8's rachet head on them at Harbor Freight. Second best investment I made on this bike, as they come in handy. I had to "drop" mine in from the bottom side, (motor was still upside down, I got smart on this one). You'll have to get it out through the bottom, and may have to "pop" it out with a small pry bar or something. It's a tight fit.

I blew mine out of the cup with compressed air, but I had to finish getting it out by prying around the seal groove because it would not come right out. Make sure to clean all the "gunk" out of there, and take a small pick to get all the hard stuff out of the grooves. Took me about an hour to clean mine up. Make sure to lube up the new seal with Brake fluid prior to installing it. Oh, it's a rascal to stretch over the piston, too. Good luck and let me know if it improves your clutch action, as I'm still 2-3 weeks away from that first ride!!

Hope this wasn't too much info for ya.

 

Dan

[BradT]

I used a long handle T allen wrench, but the bolts are tight. THen you just have to wiggle it. If it does not come out take a break and try it later. You will be surprised as it will just sort of fall out when it is right.

 

Good luck and going back is as much fun.

 

BRad

[MiCarl]

Thanks, I thought the middle gear cover had to come off but I wanted to find out if I over looked anything.

 

Clutch action is fine. Problem is all the fluid drains out overnight. I cleaned everything up when I fixed the oil leak on the stator wire and it's all still clean so it's gotta be coming out along side the piston. Hopefully I won't find it's cracked or anything.

[Dano]

DOubt if it's cracked, mine was seeping, too. Had all the paint by the sidestand switch eaten off. My seal inside was so hard I had to cut it off. So I'm looking for some improvement. Dust seal was worn out with a big hole in it, too.

 

Dan

[cimmer]

I replaced mine last year on my bike. You might want to have a new gasket for the middle gear case also in case yours is broken and unusable. Just take your time getting the clutch activator out of it space. It will come out but you will have to work at it. I also took the time to rebuild the clutch master cylinder at the same time and it made a world of difference on the action of the clutch. I am planning on rebuilding the brake system this year and replace all the hoses with Rick's steel braided set for the 89 Venture. Right now I have a front caliper that is seeping a bit. I also replace the brake fluid with synthetic brake fluid so moisture wouldn't be an issue down the road.

Good luck and just take you time is the key and also what the others said about the piston seal and such.

Rick F.

[bongobobny]

Don't forget to replace that rubber seal that is on the block where the clutch rod goes thru, or you wil be taking the slave off again in a few months!!! Also, when you take the middle cover off, the bottom screw has a coper washer which is really a gasket. Oil will come out of the thread that the screw is screwed into. The threads go all the way thru on that one...

[frankd]

If the engine is in the bike I gather you pull the exhaust chamber off the bike and then drop the cylinder out the bottom?

 

I changed this a long time ago, but I can't remember how I did it. I unbolted it, but I can't figure out any other way to get it out. Heck, I also had it out when I fixed 2nd gear, but then the engine was on the workbench.

[cimmer]

No you shouldnt have to mess with the exhaust. I did remove the footpeg and shifter but was able to work it out and back in after rebuilding it. Just take your time and it come out and go back in.

Good Luck

Rick F.

[MiCarl]

I fished mine out without removing any exhaust components.

 

As I recall I detached the line from the slave and had to deform the bracket that supports the stator wires where they pass through the area. I believe it sort of rolled out in a back flip motion.

 

I think it came out the top left - where the bleed screw sits. Not the bottom.

 

I'm also quite certain it required liberal application of profanity.

[Dakota]

Don't forget to replace that rubber seal that is on the block where the clutch rod goes thru, or you wil be taking the slave off again in a few months!!! Also, when you take the middle cover off, the bottom screw has a coper washer which is really a gasket. Oil will come out of the thread that the screw is screwed into. The threads go all the way thru on that one...

 

 

I'm in the middle of putting in slave rebuild kit while I have the exhaust off, also putting a new O ring on the neutral safety switch. 89 xvz1300

Does the rubber seal you mentoned above pop out with a flat head screw driver? I looked in the service manual and it doesn't mention it in there or list it on the diagram. Also, when replacing the seal around the slave cylinder, which ways does it go on? While I was waiting on the kit to arrive, I thought I'd get ahead of the game and take it apart. Except for now I can't remember which way it was on there? The outside edge of the seal has a slant to it, does the slant side down go towards the push rod/block or towards the spring, using this as a sample, spring \ block , or , spring / block ? Unfortunetly they don't have that in the service manual iether.

[Venturous Randy]

I rebuilt my slave several years ago and thought it was leaking again. It ended up being the hose after I put a new slave on it. Even though I have had the slave out several times in the 14 years I have had the bike, this last time it just about fell out and went in real easy. And, it did come out the bottom.

RandyA

[Condor]

I replaced the Slave on the '83 with a new one from Buckeye. The difference between the rebuild kit and a new one at the time was about 25 bucks, and at the recommendation from Rick I went that route. On removing the slave it will come out the side. No need to drop the exhaust. The trick is that it needs to be rotated upside down to clear the shift linkage. Same thing when installing. Put it in upside down and rotate as it's inserted. What the deal is is the tab ear can't clear the rod if the slave is pulled straight out, but will 'jump' over the rod when rotated. As Micarl said the stator wires have to be shoved out of the way.

[Dakota]

Do you remember which way the seal is put on the slave cylinder?

[dingy]

Which one are you unsure about?

 

Attached is a picture of a clutch slave seal kit for an 83 that I haven't put in yet.

 

Gary

[Dakota]

The one in the top left corner of the attached pic. It goes on the middle of the piston and the slant rides againest the cylinder wall.

[dingy]

Pressure on a Lip seal or "u" shaped seal will go against the open part of the profile.

 

This is so the pressure forces the sides of the seal into the cylinder wall.

 

See if attached picture helps.

 

Gary

[Dakota]

Not sure what you meant, maybe this pic will help out. 1 or 2?

[dingy]

# 1 shown on bottom

 

Gary

[Dakota]

That's what I was thinking, but want to make sure before putting the unit back on the bike, filling and bleeding it, just to find out it's dumpping and have to re-do. Much Thanks! :bowdown:Do you know if the seal, (the small one in your pic), around the push rod just gets pryed out with a screw driver or pick and slip the new one on?

[dingy]

That's what I was thinking, but want to make sure before putting the unit back on the bike, filling and bleeding it, just to find out it's dumpping and have to re-do. Much Thanks! :bowdown:Do you know if the seal, (the small one in your pic), around the push rod just gets pryed out with a screw driver or pick and slip the new one on?

 

 

I don't have a good answer to getting the seal in the case out with the push rod still in there.

 

What you said sounds as good as anything else though.

 

Gary

[Squeeze]

..Do you know if the seal, (the small one in your pic), around the push rod just gets pryed out with a screw driver or pick and slip the new one on?

 

Yes

[KIC]

OK.. so I backed the bike out of he garage to ride the with the wifey to the U of A football game and the clutch sucked, there was a small puddle on the floor, so we took the car.

 

Got home and removed the slave cylinder. What a pain ! But, the I rotated it with the bleeder down, bent the crap out of the metal holder that holds the wired together and got it down the bottom.

 

SO.. the slave cylinder looks great inside, o rust, no pitting. Used a small honing tool just to clean it up and that made it almost perfect.

 

SO... where is the best (cheapest and fastest) place to get a rebuild kit ? I also need the gasket for the cover and the seal in the block for the push rod.

 

Anybody on here selling those parts ? I will probably get two of everything since I will do the 87 next just because I now will know how to do it.

 

 

P.S. The Wildcats kicked Colorado's butt pretty good today.

[bongobobny]

All the ones I rebuilt I found the kits on Fleabay. After a while I finally reached the conclusion that for the cost of the rebuild kit and the labor involved with honing, etc. it makes sense to just buy a new slave and be done with it...

[Condor]

All the ones I rebuilt I found the kits on Fleabay. After a while I finally reached the conclusion that for the cost of the rebuild kit and the labor involved with honing, etc. it makes sense to just buy a new slave and be done with it...