1988 drive shaft teeth inspection

[dna9656]

So here are some pics of my 88 drive shaft. I can see the phonograph finish on the crown of the teeth on the small side. BOTH sides look pretty good to me. Your opinion(s) would be welcome.

What is the proceedure to re-install; it's been a few months since i took it all apart.... The seal shown in the bottom picture... is that the proper seal? The parts book shows a seal at the OTHER end of the drive shaft... clarification please!?

 

 

 

Edited October 28, 2018 by dna9656

[cimmer]

It looks good to me and I wouldnt be concerned about it. They seal is on the correct end as the book isnt also the most accurate on some of the diagrams. I would replace it with a new one as it does keep the gear lube in rear end. I would also grease the spines on the other end before you slide it back into the u-joint yoke.

Hope that helps.

Rick F.

[dna9656]

It looks good to me and I wouldnt be concerned about it. They seal is on the correct end as the book isnt also the most accurate on some of the diagrams. I would replace it with a new one as it does keep the gear lube in rear end. I would also grease the spines on the other end before you slide it back into the u-joint yoke.

Hope that helps.

Rick F.

 

Thanks Rick!

[Prairiehammer]

That driveshaft looks near new.

 

As Rick says, you should consider replacing the oil seal. Although some have removed the driveshaft from the final drive and reinserted it without damage to the oil seal, others have damaged the oil seal while reinserting it, so it is a crap shoot whether you will get lucky. Whether you replace the oil seal with new or reuse it, lightly lube the periphery of the seal with gear lube before inserting into the final drive. The driveshaft simply slides into the final drive housing and is held there by the friction of the oil seal. Clean the inner part of the final drive housing where the oil seal will mate of potentially damaging debris.

 

Before reinserting the driveshaft, inspect the inside of the coupling, ensuring that someone has not mistakenly greased the coupling and or the big end of the driveshaft and excess grease has blocked the gear lube ports with grease.

 

Also, before inserting the driveshaft into the final drive, ensure that the compression spring is still attached to the pinion shaft.

 

[dna9656]

That driveshaft looks near new.

 

As Rick says, you should consider replacing the oil seal. Although some have removed the driveshaft from the final drive and reinserted it without damage to the oil seal, others have damaged the oil seal while reinserting it, so it is a crap shoot whether you will get lucky. Whether you replace the oil seal with new or reuse it, lightly lube the periphery of the seal with gear lube before inserting into the final drive. The driveshaft simply slides into the final drive housing and is held there by the friction of the oil seal. Clean the inner part of the final drive housing where the oil seal will mate of potentially damaging debris.

 

Before reinserting the driveshaft, inspect the inside of the coupling, ensuring that someone has not mistakenly greased the coupling and or the big end of the driveshaft and excess grease has blocked the gear lube ports with grease.

 

Also, before inserting the driveshaft into the final drive, ensure that the compression spring is still attached to the pinion shaft.

 

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=114835https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=114836https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=114837

 

The seal now in place is on so tightly ON I wonder if it's bonded (glued) in place. I know I CAN remove it one way or another but I will get the new seal before doing so. Thanks for the reminder to be sure to clean out the oil holes inside the "cup".

Is there a way to do an ops check on those gear lube ports you mention; like filling the drive with lube and positioning it as it were mounted on the bike and see if the gear lube weeps through the holes? At first I thought about lightly greasing the teeth but I think I'll just cover them in lube and install it. As I rtecall cleaning the cup on the final drive gear was a lot harder to do than it should have been making me think it was greased (well) but the person doing the work didn't know much about THESE bikes or bikes in general; you all will remember the pics of the inside of the forks I posted showed that the forks were not re-assembled correctly. I have found other signs of oddly performed maintenance.

Thanks a LOT!

Edited October 28, 2018 by dna9656

[Bob K.]

The gear teeth look near perfect to me, Doug. Maybe even a touch better than my '93 driveshaft (41K miles).

 

When I removed the driveshaft from the final drive and then tipped the final drive upward (i.e. pointed the opening downward), gear oil poured out of the oil passages. The entire capacity drained out of the final drive onto a piece of cardboard in just a couple hours. That, anyway, is how I confirmed my oil passages were clear.

[Du-Rron]

So here are some pics of my 88 drive shaft.

 

Your 1988 drive shaft looks brand new. Looks the same as one out of mine which is a 2012.

 

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?95242-To-Lube-or-Not-to-Lube-That-is-the-question

 

pictures start at post 5

[dna9656]

The gear teeth look near perfect to me, Doug. Maybe even a touch better than my '93 driveshaft (41K miles).

 

When I removed the driveshaft from the final drive and then tipped the final drive upward (i.e. pointed the opening downward), gear oil poured out of the oil passages. The entire capacity drained out of the final drive onto a piece of cardboard in just a couple hours. That, anyway, is how I confirmed my oil passages were clear.

 

That's a heck of a way to find out they are open but then if they weren't you'd know right away anyway....

[uhfradarwill]

That driveshaft looks near new.

 

As Rick says, you should consider replacing the oil seal. Although some have removed the driveshaft from the final drive and reinserted it without damage to the oil seal, others have damaged the oil seal while reinserting it, so it is a crap shoot whether you will get lucky. Whether you replace the oil seal with new or reuse it, lightly lube the periphery of the seal with gear lube before inserting into the final drive. The driveshaft simply slides into the final drive housing and is held there by the friction of the oil seal. Clean the inner part of the final drive housing where the oil seal will mate of potentially damaging debris.

 

Before reinserting the driveshaft, inspect the inside of the coupling, ensuring that someone has not mistakenly greased the coupling and or the big end of the driveshaft and excess grease has blocked the gear lube ports with grease.

 

Also, before inserting the driveshaft into the final drive, ensure that the compression spring is still attached to the pinion shaft.

 

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=114835https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=114836https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=114837

 

 

Was one of those pics labeled with the word "deferential"?

 

Now I'm really confused!!

[dna9656]

Was one of those pics labeled with the word "deferential"?

 

Now I'm really confused!!

 

It's NOT differential as there is only ONE WHEEL. Yamaha calls it a "Final Drive Gear".

You don't need a differential when there is only one wheel. Yes, it is a ring and pinion (like a diff uses) buy there re no spider gears, posi or other in there.

Edited November 1, 2018 by dna9656

[dna9656]

So the new seal arrived Friday (last) but we signed for a house, had a daughter get married, attened 2 wedding connected dinners, traveled to the ends of the world and we're beat.

 

I got the old seal off with a knife, the new seal has a band of metal on it, so it presses in place, I saw no such band of metal on the old one so maybe it was bonded. In any event here it is... comments welcome.

 

 

I thought it fit right next to the gear but it doesn't. I looked at the pics posted here and the positioning looks good, I test fit the saft to the final drive gear and it is where it belongs. So all that remails is installation. Waiting on other parts now.

[Bob K.]

My original seal had the rubber seal bonded to a metal mounting band. It was on so tight that I had to remove the metal band by scoring it with a Dremel tool cutoff wheel and then prying it apart with a screwdriver.

 

The new band is a zero-clearance fit, so I'd be surprised if you accidentally left an old metal band on. I don't think you could get the new band over an old band.

 

The new band needs to go on far enough to get the snap ring back on behind it. Yours looks like mine did.