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First time valve adjustment on RSV done. My experience.........


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Posted

I am a former mechanic, mostly in the USCG aboard ship and at a aids to navigation team where we had a 45' buoy both with a Detroit-Allison 671. Have been to various schools from Snapper lawn mowers to Pratt & Whitney FT4A2 gas turbines. Even though I used my GI bill in the early 80s to become a software engineer (fancy name for computer programmer), I have pulled wrenches for the better part of 45 years, granted most of it tinkering with my own stuff. I have build small engines, VW engines and Chevy small blocks.

 

But let me tell you, just getting to the valves on this RSV is quite a task when you are going in for the first time. I was about ready to take a torch to that rear valve cover (expecting it to go back in much easier now that I have shifted some cables). And, even when you get there, lots of cranking the engine over by hand just to check the clearances on all 16 lobes/lifters.

 

To make matters even worse, I think I may have cracked or bruised a few ribs this past Sunday and in a lot of pain there, plus my arthritis has been dealing me fits the past couple months.

 

BUT, I GOT 'ER DONE!!!! Now just got to button it back. Many thanks to skydoc for the kit. Luckily what shims I needed, they were there even though a couple valves are a little on the low side of being in tolerance.

 

On all cylinders, the intake valve tolerances were either dead on the low side or just under by up to .02mm. One is still a little closer to the lower side than I would like, but it's close enough at .12mm. All others are .13 to .15 mm. But, EVERY ONE of them had to be swapped out.

 

Only 1 cylinder, #4 , required swapping shims. It was .01mm OVER tolerance. Oddly, #4 cylinder had different intake shims than the other 2. All were 285s except for this cylinder and it had a 285 on the outboard valve and a 288 on the inboard one.

 

Now here's a puzzle for my reassembly tomorrow morning, well, really later this morning since it's 1:00 am here. There is NO WAY that my torque wrench with an Allen socket will fit on 4 of the 8 bolts. Can you say fudge?

 

As I have previously posted, I am in the process of swapping all body parts (painted surfaces) from a 99 RSV to an 09. All left now after I get the valve covers, carbs and all else back in the frame, is to pull the inner front faring. I have done that before. Easier to pull than to put back on routing all those wires/cables. The 09 bike is basically just the frame, engine, wiring and front forks/inner faring. So sometime tomorrow, I will finally begin yanking the parts off the 99, hitting them with the buffer, and installing them on the 09. I got 1 week from now to have it done.

 

I think I got this. Just need to steal a few of the old ladies pain pills.

 

As for the ribs, no I haven't went to the doctor. Not much they can do other than bind me and give me some pain meds. Honestly, the arithritis in my knees is at times more pain than the ribs.

 

Looking forward to finally getting around also to the audio upgrade.

Posted
I am a former mechanic, mostly in the USCG aboard ship and at a aids to navigation team where we had a 45' buoy both with a Detroit-Allison 671. Have been to various schools from Snapper lawn mowers to Pratt & Whitney FT4A2 gas turbines. Even though I used my GI bill in the early 80s to become a software engineer (fancy name for computer programmer), I have pulled wrenches for the better part of 45 years, granted most of it tinkering with my own stuff. I have build small engines, VW engines and Chevy small blocks.

 

But let me tell you, just getting to the valves on this RSV is quite a task when you are going in for the first time. I was about ready to take a torch to that rear valve cover (expecting it to go back in much easier now that I have shifted some cables). And, even when you get there, lots of cranking the engine over by hand just to check the clearances on all 16 lobes/lifters.

 

To make matters even worse, I think I may have cracked or bruised a few ribs this past Sunday and in a lot of pain there, plus my arthritis has been dealing me fits the past couple months.

 

BUT, I GOT 'ER DONE!!!! Now just got to button it back. Many thanks to skydoc for the kit. Luckily what shims I needed, they were there even though a couple valves are a little on the low side of being in tolerance.

 

On all cylinders, the intake valve tolerances were either dead on the low side or just under by up to .02mm. One is still a little closer to the lower side than I would like, but it's close enough at .12mm. All others are .13 to .15 mm. But, EVERY ONE of them had to be swapped out.

 

Only 1 cylinder, #4 , required swapping shims. It was .01mm OVER tolerance. Oddly, #4 cylinder had different intake shims than the other 2. All were 285s except for this cylinder and it had a 285 on the outboard valve and a 288 on the inboard one.

 

Now here's a puzzle for my reassembly tomorrow morning, well, really later this morning since it's 1:00 am here. There is NO WAY that my torque wrench with an Allen socket will fit on 4 of the 8 bolts. Can you say fudge?

 

As I have previously posted, I am in the process of swapping all body parts (painted surfaces) from a 99 RSV to an 09. All left now after I get the valve covers, carbs and all else back in the frame, is to pull the inner front faring. I have done that before. Easier to pull than to put back on routing all those wires/cables. The 09 bike is basically just the frame, engine, wiring and front forks/inner faring. So sometime tomorrow, I will finally begin yanking the parts off the 99, hitting them with the buffer, and installing them on the 09. I got 1 week from now to have it done.

 

I think I got this. Just need to steal a few of the old ladies pain pills.

 

As for the ribs, no I haven't went to the doctor. Not much they can do other than bind me and give me some pain meds. Honestly, the arithritis in my knees is at times more pain than the ribs.

 

Looking forward to finally getting around also to the audio upgrade.

 

I've got arthritic knees and ankle, you make sending it to rhe shop sound worth the expense, WaaaaaaaH!!!

 

good on you for doing it though!

Posted
I've got arthritic knees and ankle, you make sending it to rhe shop sound worth the expense, WaaaaaaaH!!!

 

good on you for doing it though!

 

If I'd had bike on a lift, it would have been much easier. But it's on a jack which required me constantly getting down on a knee to look thru the inspection hole for timing marks.

 

Plus, I'm maybe a little different than most of us that have fallen victim to arthritis. I quit taking meds in 2006 after reading all the side effects of naproxen. That stuff can kill you, arthritis won't. So I personally elect to hurt vs possible dying.

Posted

I may stand corrected, but the 4 bolts holding the covers in place are shoulder bolts and the shoulder prevent a feller from over tightening the covers. The torque applied only deals with the tightness of the bolt in the hole, so bring them nice and snug and you'll be a bug in a rug.

Posted
If I'd had bike on a lift, it would have been much easier. But it's on a jack which required me constantly getting down on a knee to look thru the inspection hole for timing marks.

 

Plus, I'm maybe a little different than most of us that have fallen victim to arthritis. I quit taking meds in 2006 after reading all the side effects of naproxen. That stuff can kill you, arthritis won't. So I personally elect to hurt vs possible dying.

 

Likewise Larry, I don't take 'meds', but I will admit {and I am sure it helps} I take Glucosamine/chondritin and Tumeric, but also use Ginger and Cayenne pepper. When I stop I know my knees become more 'uncomfortable'

Posted

When you are determined and hang in there, it's always satisfying to complete a successful job. Congratulations! I'm one to talk but losing weight is the best remedy for arthritis I think.

Posted
When you are determined and hang in there, it's always satisfying to complete a successful job. Congratulations! I'm one to talk but losing weight is the best remedy for arthritis I think.

 

Are you saying I'm fat? :hurts:

 

Well, I am. Tell folks all the time that I am NOT a biker (although I get called upon to lead a lot of charity rides). I am just an old fat guy that rides a motorcycle. And I think you are right when it comes to my knees and back. I lost a good bit a couple years ago (43 lbs) on a low carb diet, but it only took me about a year to get most of it back. Knees didn't give me as much trouble with I was trimmer. Been holding steady for the past 6 months or so and always say I am gonna diet again, like after our cruise in April, or after 4th of July or after our vacation in September. And now it's pushed out to first of the year with another cruise in November and all the holidays coming up.

 

Back to more important subject, got the valve covers back on, intake tee back in, new plugs set and in, water hoses hooked back up, carbs cleaned and back on the bike. All that took me about 4 hours to do. The rear valve cover is a tight fit for sure and took my time to be extra careful to ensure that the gasket is seated properly all the way around. Looking forward now to maybe sometime tomorrow firing this baby up and syncing the carbs.

:dancefool:

 

Just came in to look at some of the pics I took on hose and cable routing prior to removing everything to make sure I get it all back like it was. And good thing too. Found where I need to reroute a couple hoses.

 

And yes. It is gratifying once you get a tough task completed. Not looking forward to this task again, but will probably need to try to tackle it every 30k miles or so. For me, that's about 2 to 2-1/2 years.

Posted

If you have any tips or tricks you learned..I'm all ears!

 

Seriously....I've never done it either...

 

I'm not liking the racket from the valves and thinking maybe I should check them out. Even though they aren't due for a few more miles....

 

Of course, it could be the hearing aids....there are times when I never know if what I'm hearing is really tinny, noisy or loud.

The fake ears can be a problem sometimes....

Posted

2 RSV's ago and at 60K miles when I decided that the valve clearances needed to be checked. Not wanting to go through the hassle of doing the actual clearance checking and shimming, I put the bike on my trailer, remove everything that needed to come off to get to the valves. Drove the bike to my local Yamaha dealer and had them do that part of the work. I left the bike on the trailer and they brought it into the the shop that way. Once they were done, I brought the bike on the trailer back home and buttoned everything up. Cost me under $150.00. In my opinion, it was money well spent.

 

I have been twisting wrenches on my bikes for almost 45 years and I guess at my age now, sometimes it's just easier to have someone else do some of the wrenching. I commend those of you that take on a job like this.

Posted
2 RSV's ago and at 60K miles when I decided that the valve clearances needed to be checked. Not wanting to go through the hassle of doing the actual clearance checking and shimming, I put the bike on my trailer, remove everything that needed to come off to get to the valves. Drove the bike to my local Yamaha dealer and had them do that part of the work. I left the bike on the trailer and they brought it into the the shop that way. Once they were done, I brought the bike on the trailer back home and buttoned everything up. Cost me under $150.00. In my opinion, it was money well spent.

 

I have been twisting wrenches on my bikes for almost 45 years and I guess at my age now, sometimes it's just easier to have someone else do some of the wrenching. I commend those of you that take on a job like this.

 

I normally like doing my own work. I guess you could say I have trust issues when it comes to dealerships and them actually doing what you request and pay them to do, unless I personally know the mechanic. Most people I have talked with have paid anywhere from $300 to the upper $500 to have this done, but I guess that is not removing anything in advance.

 

What all did you remove before taking it to the shop? And, was it a Yamaha dealership?

Posted (edited)
If you have any tips or tricks you learned..I'm all ears!

 

Seriously....I've never done it either...

 

I'm not liking the racket from the valves and thinking maybe I should check them out. Even though they aren't due for a few more miles....

 

Of course, it could be the hearing aids....there are times when I never know if what I'm hearing is really tinny, noisy or loud.

The fake ears can be a problem sometimes....

 

If you haven't already, read V7Goose post. Some nice instructions, but he makes it sound easy. Use this along with the service manual.

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?38340-2nd-Gen-Valve-Adjustment

 

The use of a lift would make it much easier. But I didn't have that option this time. Have bike torn down to basically the frame and engine doing a complete body panels swap over from my 99, so no wheels are on the bike and it is on a jack. IMO, I think a stand would put the bike at a much easier height to work on it.

 

Can't remember if he mentioned it in the write up, but if you are replacing the valve cover gaskets, spot super glue the gasket to the cover, it will make it much easier. And even at that, when working the rear cover over the cam chain, you may still do as I did and knock the gasket out of alignment a little and have to work it back in.

 

Good lighting is essential, as is lots and lots of patience.

Edited by YamahaLarry
Posted
I may stand corrected, but the 4 bolts holding the covers in place are shoulder bolts and the shoulder prevent a feller from over tightening the covers. The torque applied only deals with the tightness of the bolt in the hole, so bring them nice and snug and you'll be a bug in a rug.

 

That's all I did, was just snugged them really good with a standard length allen wrench. Most of them were torqued to 8 ft lbs.

Posted (edited)

What all did you remove before taking it to the shop? And, was it a Yamaha dealership?

 

I removed the tank, carbs, valve covers, dog bones etc. so that the Yamaha dealership had a clean shot at the valves. All they had to do was measure the clearances and replace the necessary shims. I believe they said 5 shims needed to be changed. I covered the open engine with clean rags and wire for transportation to and from the dealer which is only 15 minutes from my house. That was my plan right from the beginning since I didn't have access to the shims or shim bucket tool. Had I had access, I would have done the shimming myself.

Edited by grubsie
Posted (edited)

While its too late to be of help to you, there are a few kits containing the tools and an assortment of shims available to forum members who want to do this work themselves.

 

 

If someone is looking for a kit, just ask.

Edited by RandyR
Posted

I may be taking up on this offer over this winter. Wish I had known this when I had my last RSV. I picked up "new to me" 2008 RSV with 23,000 miles on it a couple of weeks ago. I doubt very much that the valves were adjusted. The person I bought it from ran it for 14,000 miles and only did basic maintenance like oil, tires etc. Going to ride it for now though as there aren't many riding days left here before it gets too cold.

Posted

I have about 94,000km (approx 58,000 miles) on mine and never checked the valves. Might be a Winter job if I get to it....and/or have help from someone I know. (Carl? )

Posted
While its too late to be of help to you, there are a few kits containing the tools and an assortment of shims available to forum members who want to do this work themselves.

 

 

If someone is looking for a kit, just ask.

 

I did and skydoc17 had a kit that I used. Had all the shims I needed to change all the intakes to the upper limit Had to also change out 2 exhaust shims that were "out" of tolerance" and had the shim to put one of them to the upper range and the other is closer to the lower range. The other 6 exhaust valves were pretty close to the center of the tolerance range.

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