cowpuc Posted October 5, 2018 #1 Posted October 5, 2018 (edited) Freebird, Marcarl and/or to anyone else who can help with this... Couple months ago, before heading out on our emergency call to go see our new grandson,,, I ripped Tweeksis apart to install a new U-Joint.. Not wanting to pay the big $$ to Mom Yam, I ordered off the cross reference found here: https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?6238-U-Joint-Cross-Reference I could not find a supplier of the TRW 20128 (Datsun?) so I went with the Spicer 5-1500x,, that one came in and had no lock ring grooves but had the top clips = my 1st Gens have to use the lower clips = reordered the Moog (Precision) 392. I knew the 392's were greasable thru the caps but figured I would grease it - pull the zerk and plug the hole if I had to. Found out that the 392's and the 5-1500x (I see Spicer does make the 5-1500 with lower clips,, looks like I just got the top clipped ones by chance) are lower clip groove ground at 1.496 inches of yoke space (see "G1" on spec sheet found here: https://www.northerndrivetrain.com/product/SPI-5-1500X.html ).. 1.496 inch = 38mm and our/my 1st Gen yokes require 40mm clip to clip space.. I ended up shimming out to 40mm with washers on top of the cap journals to make the 392 work (took my calipers down to ACE hardware and purchased 4 - 1mm thick x 10mm in diameter stainless flat washers @10 cents each and used them as shims inside of the caps and on top of the journals).. Thankfully the cap diameters on both the 5-1500's and the 392's do spec exactly the same as the OEM! I have replaced many U-Joints thru the years and the "feel" of the finished product was good after pressing in the caps with the vice and have now got a few miles on Tweeks with this make shift u-joint in place.. The 392 was an 8 dollar part shipped to my door and, being a person who LOVES the challenge of making things work that normally would not work - I would do it all again the same way I did BUT = it might not be a bad idea for the clubs sake to have some form of a disclaimer placed in that tech article so if one of these lop eared varmints gets stranded and needs a quick fix,,, they will know what they are up against.. I know Don,, I am a royal pain in the neck and I hated to post this and cause ya more work but,, you know me Not sure how this all fits into the MK2 or the RSV's...... That knowledge will have to come from someone wayyyyyy more smarter than I .. Was just wondering if another update to that cross reference would not be wise? Puc Edited October 5, 2018 by cowpuc
Marcarl Posted October 5, 2018 #2 Posted October 5, 2018 ALl done bro. Just added your paragraph to the original thread.
cowpuc Posted October 5, 2018 Author #3 Posted October 5, 2018 ALl done bro. Just added your paragraph to the original thread. Thanks Carl,,, a finer lop eared brother of a Canuckian Moderator varmint I have never met!!
RSTDdog Posted October 6, 2018 #4 Posted October 6, 2018 Looking up 1973 Nissan B110 on Rock Auto (They put all the Datsun years under Nissan) here (screenshot) are all the part numbers of U-joints they carry. Rock Auto does not carry the TRW part number. As a rule if Rock Auto doesn't carry it, its likely not being made by that supplier anymore. TRW may be gone as a brand by now?? not sure. If you hit the info button, more specs available for each part. Link: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1973,b110,1.2l+l4,1428,drivetrain,universal+joint,2392 Edit: Apparently did not like me copy and pasting the screenshot into the body of the thread, looked ok in preview though.......
saddlebum Posted October 6, 2018 #5 Posted October 6, 2018 (edited) In my line of work we deal a lot with a variety of PTO shafts and makeshift drive lines often fabricating from scratch . To source U-joints we go by dimensions and configurations. Here is a sample of how we go about it. see the following attachments. https://spicerparts.com/resources/measuring-u-joints after you click on the link select the style of joint you need (not the smokable type ) and it will bring up a list of sizes in that configuration. Once we know what we are after we just order the part, usually through a custom drive line/PTO fabricating shop. Edited October 6, 2018 by saddlebum
Prairiehammer Posted October 8, 2018 #6 Posted October 8, 2018 An alternative to sourcing U-joint components for the XVZ12/XVZ13 (ALL XVZ as well as most Yamaha shaft drive vehicles): Spider: 2HR-46187-00 Bearing cups: 93399-99926-00 Circlips: 93440-20088-00 This entire assembly is available from several non-Yamaha sources. Usually listed for ATVs. Do a search for 2HR-46187-00. Kimpex part number158267. Sells for $20 or less. For instance: https://www.mfgsupply.com/atv/atvsusp/atvsuspyam/atvsuspyamujoints/19-1003-ref4-atv-rear-drive-shaft-engine-side-u-joint.html http://iowamotorparts.com/yamaha_atv_u-joints.htm https://www.kimpex.com/en-us/products/atv/suspensions-and-parts/universal-joints/kimpex-yamaha-u-joint
videoarizona Posted October 8, 2018 #7 Posted October 8, 2018 Boss, @Freebird, should this last post get a sticky or copied to tech area...?
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now