I'm perplexed...Tire unseats at stoplight

[coolwind57]

Ok, wierdest thing ever happened to me.

 

I'm cruising at 60-miles per hour from a rehearsal last week. Was driving about 5-6 minutes total with no issues whatsoever and came to stop light. Just as I began to accelerate on the green light, my rear end felt like it was trying to pull from a pool of oil or something. I pulled the bike over to the side of the road to discover that the tire was completely flat and coming off the rim.

 

This is a new tire, Kenda Kruz with maybe 400-miles on it.

 

Towed it home the next day and I'm taking the wheel off later today, as I've finally found some time to finally work on it. So far upon inspection, I have found zero nails/screws/objects that had penetrated the tire. Side walls appear fine.

 

I'm perplexed and the only thing I can come up with is that maybe my tire pressure was really low or something and I wasn't aware. I had gotten out of the habit of checking tire pressure before each operation. I suppose that's not healthy. I just can't believe that I had experienced absolutely no negative ride quality up until I stopped at that light.

 

I'll take the wheel off and take it to the tire shop that sold and installed it. Perhaps there is a bad area on the bead area of the wheel. Perhaps I have a leaking valve stem and was slowly leaking air. Now, I'm really concerned about using that same tire (if in fact there's no penetrations and otherwise appears ok). I wonder if belts were damaged while that 800lbs bike sat on it before I got it back to my garage.

 

Anyone else experience anything like this? Should I toss this 400-mile new tire?

[Beachbum]

Inspect the interior side wall of the tire. If it was run long at low pressure it will look like someone rubbed sandpaper on the sidewall interior. If that is okay I would run it but pay attention to any new vibrations. That may be an indicator of a damaged belt. Your culprit is most likely the valve stem went south. That is almost always the culprit on our big rig tires when there’s no hole or damage. Just my .02

[zagger]

Inspect the interior side wall of the tire. If it was run long at low pressure it will look like someone rubbed sandpaper on the sidewall interior. If that is okay I would run it but pay attention to any new vibrations. That may be an indicator of a damaged belt. Your culprit is most likely the valve stem went south. That is almost always the culprit on our big rig tires when there’s no hole or damage. Just my .02

 

I like Beachbum's analysis. I recently had a tire valve totally crap out and simply blow air. Valve cores certainly are not expensive, but when they go to hell the air just shoots out. Fortunately, my bike was in the garage when this happened and I just ran up to the hardware store and bought a pack of 4 new cores. You do need a little tool to unscrew the core and put in a new one. Luckily I had an old metal valve cap that had the little end (what is that called?) which engages with the top of the valve core. Fix took a few seconds and the tire pressure is holding.

Cap with tool is like these: https://www.amazon.com/Farmunion-50pcs-Chrome-Slotted-Remover/dp/B01K4JH0MC/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1538315971&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=valve+cap+with+core+tool&psc=1

They certainly are affordable - 50 of them for $10 and you only need one!

zag

 

PS I didn't notice - here are 10 for $3. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018I3L3W4/ref=psdc_3152433011_t1_B01K4JH0MC

Edited September 30, 2018 by zagger

[Flyinfool]

If the bead had somehow come off with proper air pressure you would have known it. it would have sounded like a bomb went off under you with the sudden release of air pressure. I am betting that you were riding on a nearly flat tire and the application of torque allowed you to spin the rim out of the tire. You will have to do some sleuthing to figure out why the pressure was so low in the first place.

 

I would inspect the tire inside and out for any damage and if good would remount it and not worry. If the tire is scuffed on the inside or out side then I would worry.

[coolwind57]

If the bead had somehow come off with proper air pressure you would have known it. it would have sounded like a bomb went off under you with the sudden release of air pressure. I am betting that you were riding on a nearly flat tire and the application of torque allowed you to spin the rim out of the tire. You will have to do some sleuthing to figure out why the pressure was so low in the first place.

 

I would inspect the tire inside and out for any damage and if good would remount it and not worry. If the tire is scuffed on the inside or out side then I would worry.

 

 

That makes sense. Well, I got the wheel off and let it sit in the son for a couple hours. Shot some air in there while sitting on it and the dang thing re-seated. Checking for leaks with soapy water now. How important is it that the little yellow/orange painted dot on the tire line up with the valve stem of the wheel?

[SpencerPJ]

How important is it that the little yellow/orange painted dot on the tire line up with the valve stem of the wheel?

 

It will balance it's best lined up with valve stem. Not a requirement. If it was lined up before, and balanced, well, it won't be balanced any more.

[MiCarl]

The dot doesn't need to be lined up with the valve stem. That is done on the presumption that the valve is the heavy spot on the wheel. I check alloy wheels before I mount tires. On ribbed cast wheels like the 1st gen ventures have the heavy spot isn't anyway near the valve at least half the time.

 

You should have it re-balanced once you solve your leak issue.

 

Check to see if it's leaking at the bead. It's not unusual for 30 year old alloy wheels to have some crud build up that keeps the bead from sealing.

[videoarizona]

Check to see if it's leaking at the bead. It's not unusual for 30 year old alloy wheels to have some crud build up that keeps the bead from sealing.

 

 

Yep. This is what @cowpuc and I found when we replaced my rear tire that collected a nail.

I did get on the case of the manager of the store that did the tire install about their guy NOT cleaning the wheel! My temper was not held in check....not with my life on the line...

 

What bothers me is that the Shinko 777HD went over 3K miles like this with all the crud on the inside bead area of the rim. I was lucky...

 

[cowpuc]

Ok, wierdest thing ever happened to me.

 

I'm cruising at 60-miles per hour from a rehearsal last week. Was driving about 5-6 minutes total with no issues whatsoever and came to stop light. Just as I began to accelerate on the green light, my rear end felt like it was trying to pull from a pool of oil or something. I pulled the bike over to the side of the road to discover that the tire was completely flat and coming off the rim.

 

This is a new tire, Kenda Kruz with maybe 400-miles on it.

 

Towed it home the next day and I'm taking the wheel off later today, as I've finally found some time to finally work on it. So far upon inspection, I have found zero nails/screws/objects that had penetrated the tire. Side walls appear fine.

 

I'm perplexed and the only thing I can come up with is that maybe my tire pressure was really low or something and I wasn't aware. I had gotten out of the habit of checking tire pressure before each operation. I suppose that's not healthy. I just can't believe that I had experienced absolutely no negative ride quality up until I stopped at that light.

 

I'll take the wheel off and take it to the tire shop that sold and installed it. Perhaps there is a bad area on the bead area of the wheel. Perhaps I have a leaking valve stem and was slowly leaking air. Now, I'm really concerned about using that same tire (if in fact there's no penetrations and otherwise appears ok). I wonder if belts were damaged while that 800lbs bike sat on it before I got it back to my garage.

 

Anyone else experience anything like this? Should I toss this 400-mile new tire?

 

Yep. This is what cowpuc and I found when we replaced my rear tire that collected a nail.

I did get on the case of the manager of the store that did the tire install about their guy NOT cleaning the wheel! My temper was not held in check....not with my life on the line...

 

What bothers me is that the Shinko 777HD went over 3K miles like this with all the crud on the inside bead area of the rim. I was lucky...

 

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=114590

 

Yep,, we sure did VAz,,, and,,, IMHO,,, not a pretty picture.. Having experienced riding down a few of these puppies with flat has taught me a couple of things,, one of them being that givin the choice,, I prefer to never have to do that again so I like to make sure those rim beads are clean as a whistle when I spoon on a new tire,, just another IMHO of course..

Personally,, due to the low prices on some really awesome shoes,,, if the tire had been rolled enough to pop a bead once it was flat,, I wouldnt risk it,, I would replace it and this time I would stick a Shinko 230 Tourmaster on it - they have earned the spot in being my favorite bargin bin tire,,, just another of my opinions I reckon..

Due to what I am reading here,,, while swapping on the new tire and in the process of cleaning up the wheel,, as shown in one of the attached vids,, I would also replace the valve stem.. I know there will be tons of opinions on does and don'ts on this process too but what I show has worked for me over a few tire swaps...

 

 

 

 

[coolwind57]

It ended up being my valve stem leaking. With soaping down the wheel/tire, the only bubbles I were getting was at the valve stem opening where the schrader is (I think).

[dna9656]

I JUST WENT through the thought process of just how clean the bead area of the wheel has to be TODAY! I am moving one tire from one wheel to another... What to use to clean it with, etc. I noticed the wheel has a Phonograph finish so that told me Yamaha wanted that finish to promote the sealing of the bead(?) So in the end I wire brushed (by hand) the bead area and the in tire (arg, arg, arg) wheel area that's inside the tire absolutely clean. I tried some WD-40 in an effort to dissolve some of the rubber, then THOROUGHLY cleaned the area between the bead walls with Brake (leaves no oil residue) Clean 4 times to be sure no lube was left.

Conclusion: A wire brush and elbow grease is prolly the best tools/method to use for this job. The WD-40 helped but not that much. I thought about a wire brush on my drill but that would tend to polish the metal (at least that's what they (I'm a marine painter) teach at work so I stuck with what works...

I had to relearn how to change a tire; back in the day I hung out at gas stations that did repair work, sold a few tires, a LOT of $0.35 a gallon gas when gas went to $0.60 (OMG!) a gallon....etc...I had a Coats 20/20 tire changing machine and good ole tire lube.

I got some lube (Bull Snot) on the M/C tire and it came off AHELLOVALOT easier!

Tomorrow I"ll re-install the good tire using Bull Snot (tire lube) it's slicker than snake snot on a door knob!

I was taught not to use anything but approved tire lube... Some guys on the You Tube use dish soap, some kind of soap... Too scary for me!.....

Edited October 2, 2018 by dna9656

[YamahaLarry]

Yep,, we sure did VAz,,, and,,, IMHO,,, not a pretty picture.. Having experienced riding down a few of these puppies with flat has taught me a couple of things,, one of them being that givin the choice,, I prefer to never have to do that again so I like to make sure those rim beads are clean as a whistle when I spoon on a new tire,, just another IMHO of course..

 

Could watch those cowpuc videos all night. My brother is supervisor of a tire company and I have used the "black" stuff. Works great. But last couple times I've done tires myself I used Lemon Pledge to lube the bead. It seems slicker to me, plus it smells good. Doesn't do much for sealing any scratches in the bead though, and I have a few of those on the old 99 RSV. So, I usually have to throw a little air in the tires (mostly rear) once a month or so.

[Flyinfool]

The problem with using lubes other than tire lube is that tire lube will dry up and stop being slippery once its job is done. Other lubes may stay slippery for a much longer time and allow the tire to slip on the rim during hard acceleration or breaking. Then you wonder why the tire is suddenly out of balance.

[7 lakes]

The problem with using lubes other than tire lube is that tire lube will dry up and stop being slippery once its job is done. Other lubes may stay slippery for a much longer time and allow the tire to slip on the rim during hard acceleration or breaking. Then you wonder why the tire is suddenly out of balance.

 

Yeah, what he said. Definitely tire lube is the way to go. Also, residue from dishwashing detergent and other mild solvents encourages corrosion of aluminum over time, so not a good idea to use for anything without rinsing thoroughly, which you can't do inside your tire. I use Tru-Flate; ( https://www.amazon.com/Plews-Edelmann-Tru-Flate-12-095-Concentrated/dp/B000CIUOMY ) its a tub of gel that for demounting you mix a glob with water to make a super slick mixture you swab on after breaking the bead, and for mounting, you dip a couple of fingers in the sticky goo and smear it on the bead and the rim like a thin coating of grease. Tire goes on slick and easy and no moisture inside the tire to interfere with balancing beads. It also contains a corrosion inhibitor. Best stuff I've ever used.

 

I always clean the rim well, mount and seat the tire, then break the bead and pour in the beads. Then, the tire is so slick still that a little air and the bead pops right back into place without any effort and you're ready to bolt it on. By the time you've buttoned the bike up the lube will be dry enough that you don't need to worry about slippage.

 

Tim

[s.tyler58]

Yep,, we sure did VAz,,, and,,, IMHO,,, not a pretty picture.. Having experienced riding down a few of these puppies with flat has taught me a couple of things,, one of them being that givin the choice,, I prefer to never have to do that again so I like to make sure those rim beads are clean as a whistle when I spoon on a new tire,, just another IMHO of course..

Personally,, due to the low prices on some really awesome shoes,,, if the tire had been rolled enough to pop a bead once it was flat,, I wouldnt risk it,, I would replace it and this time I would stick a Shinko 230 Tourmaster on it - they have earned the spot in being my favorite bargin bin tire,,, just another of my opinions I reckon..

Due to what I am reading here,,, while swapping on the new tire and in the process of cleaning up the wheel,, as shown in one of the attached vids,, I would also replace the valve stem.. I know there will be tons of opinions on does and don'ts on this process too but what I show has worked for me over a few tire swaps...

 

 

 

 

I have never been able to find Part 2 in your series.

 

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[cowpuc]

I have never been able to find Part 2 in your series.

 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

That's probably cause those are fairly old vids and have gotten lost out there in YouTube's geezerland... :think:Did you try going to YouTube and searching the title (after changing the 3 to a 2...??)?? Also it might help if you include my YouTube screen name at the end of the title = put Puc Puc in the search line too.... Hold on,,, I will give that a quick try myself....

Yep, worked,,, here ya go Ty.... Sorry for the @coolwind57 = got my apologies my friend!!

 

 

 

 

[cowpuc]

Couple more in that series Ty..