Clutch Slave Cylinder

[uhfradarwill]

Finally got my slave from Partszilla.

I've seen a lot of questions on how the final seal is oriented so I'm posting this pic.

I hope it helps someone.

 

$90 delivered to your door. I think a new cylinder is the way to go vs a rebuild JMHO

 

[uhfradarwill]

This is the old one I just removed with just 30K on it.

 

[BlueSky]

If the old one doesn't have any pitting inside the cylinder, it should be rebuildable. But, the standard advice on this forum is to buy new. If a rebuild is done, any honing or sanding of the cylinder walls should be around and around, not back and forth to prevent the new seal from leaking.

[uhfradarwill]

If the old one doesn't have any pitting inside the cylinder, it should be rebuildable. But, the standard advice on this forum is to buy new. If a rebuild is done, any honing or sanding of the cylinder walls should be around and around, not back and forth to prevent the new seal from leaking.

 

My old one looks like its been through WWII on the inside!!

[uhfradarwill]

Ok, one more note and I'll shut up.

I had read that removing the slave cylinder was a PITA; I agreed at first but I found what worked well for me.

In the pic the gold cable management clamp is the real obstacle.

I took a flat blade screw driver, after removing all the wires, and a rubber mallet and bent it down as far as it could go, both the top and bottom lips.

When you do this there is nothing restricting the removal of the slave.

This metal is very flexible will bend back to it's original shape with ease and with zero damage.

Just my two cents.

 

[Prairiehammer]

Ok, one more note and I'll shut up.

I had read that removing the slave cylinder was a PITA; I agreed at first but I found what worked well for me.

In the pic the gold cable management clamp is the real obstacle.

I took a flat blade screw driver, after removing all the wires, and a rubber mallet and bent it down as far as it could go, both the top and bottom lips.

When you do this there is nothing restricting the removal of the slave.

This metal is very flexible will bend back to it's original shape with ease and with zero damage.

Just my two cents.

 

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=114408

 

Good tip.

 

However, getting the slave OUT is rarely a big problem.

Getting the slave back IN gives folks a fit, many times.

[uhfradarwill]

Good tip.

 

However, getting the slave OUT is rarely a big problem.

Getting the slave back IN gives folks a fit, many times.

 

Oh ok PH I thought the extraction was the pain.

My two friends, Hansel and Gretel, taught me long ago how to retrace my steps.

But then again they are still hunting a white whale so what do they know. It was the best of times it was the worst.......

[SpencerPJ]

You don't have that installed yet. I figured you'd be complaining by now that you can't get the air out of the system. Good luck

[uhfradarwill]

You don't have that installed yet. I figured you'd be complaining by now that you can't get the air out of the system. Good luck

 

I did say a few "colorful" words while bleeding the system.

When I cracked the bango at the Master, things started to work.

Will

[cptriker1]

Many months ago I suddenly lost pressure on my clutch and had to limp home. I changed the fluid out and used 100% synthetic brake fluid. Got a 1-man brake bleeder kit off of ebay and FLUSHED the line. And I mean I flushed it!

 

Since then I've not had a single problem. Dont skimp, use the full synthetic fluid and flush at least once a year.

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[MommasToy]

So, I'm not having luck getting these screws out with my Allen wrenches. I'm guessing I need to invest in some extra long ones.

 

I also have to replace the starter and I'm wondering if anyone has pictures of this to help guide me. I've never worked on bikes before so I'm learning from here and You Tube. The speedo cable was no problem. Now I'm getting in over my head.

[SpencerPJ]

So, I'm not having luck getting these screws out with my Allen wrenches. I'm guessing I need to invest in some extra long ones.

 

I also have to replace the starter and I'm wondering if anyone has pictures of this to help guide me. I've never worked on bikes before so I'm learning from here and You Tube. The speedo cable was no problem. Now I'm getting in over my head.

 

I was a newbie too, don't be discouraged, people around here will get you pointed in the right direction.

 

Allen wrenches. I did replace my slave a few years back. I think I needed to uses something like these allen sockets https://www.harborfreight.com/6-pc-38-in-drive-metric-hex-socket-set-69546.html

Autozone will rent them for free more than likely, or have a single size you need.

 

Starter, there are many detailed threads on that. Here is one https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?80775-Starter-Replacement

 

Good luck, ask away, the smart guys will be along shortly

[BlueSky]

will these work?

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/hex-wrenches/10-pc-metric-t-handle-hex-key-set-69370.html

[luvmy40]

Those Harbor Freight T-Handle Allens are OK for most light work but they will probably not be strong enough for the clutch slave job. Get a set of 1/4" or 3/8" drive hex drive sockets and an extension set. The cheap stuff at HF will work fine in that style.

[bongobobny]

Yup, you need some good long metric ones because when you go to loosen them you will swear either the heads are going to strip out or you are going to break either the bolt or the tool! Those puppies have a lot of torque on them!

[Marcarl]

Just make sure you have the right size allen, otherwise you'll be drilling and tapping, and that ain't no fun. I would use a quality allen bit with extension long enough to properly get an impact driver attached, but the allen needs to be a snug fit, not one that has wear or you'll strip out the bolt head.

[BlueSky]

Those Harbor Freight T-Handle Allens are OK for most light work but they will probably not be strong enough for the clutch slave job. Get a set of 1/4" or 3/8" drive hex drive sockets and an extension set. The cheap stuff at HF will work fine in that style.

 

You may be correct but I have a set of those T-handle allen wrenches and they seem to do the job.

[cowpuc]

You may be correct but I have a set of those T-handle allen wrenches and they seem to do the job.

 

Ya might try sliding a box end wrench up the shaft of the allen on those cheapy HF T-Handles BlueSky. Then hook the box end of another wrench onto the open end end of the wrench that is on the Allen to give you some extra UMPH pulling area for snapping the bolts loose..

 

If that dont help, you could always cut the T-Handle off and place the long shaft of the left over Allen into a socket attached to a Hand Impact. Give er a rap and those stubborn Slave Bolts will pop right out!

[MommasToy]

Yup, you need some good long metric ones because when you go to loosen them you will swear either the heads are going to strip out or you are going to break either the bolt or the tool! Those puppies have a lot of torque on them!

 

I ordered a set of the extended ones, but picked up the long hex wrenches as well to have on hand for anything else I encounter. The slave isn't out yet, but hopefully soon and then I can start tackling that starter.

 

Thank you!

[bongobobny]

I tried my Tee handles once, and that's when I found out how tight the screws can be and thought I was going to break the handle, so I switched to my long metric allen socket and the ratchet handle...

[RDawson]

Like every other bolt on a bike the steel bolts like to bond into aluminum. What I've found to work the best is to use the socket type Allen wrenches and once seated in the bolt give it a few light raps with a hammer. The shock and vibration breaks that bond and they back right out. The key here is to look at where you're hammering and not get crazy with it to the point of cracking aluminum. I've done it on auto transmissions and bikes for years, works real well on those Phillips screws too. I took a carb apart recently on a Honda Shadow that somebody had the screws half stripped, hit em with a flat punch and backed em right out. The owner had already given up getting it apart and was ready to order a carb. Had carb cleaned and him riding within an hour.

[cowpuc]

I tried my Tee handles once, and that's when I found out how tight the screws can be and thought I was going to break the handle, so I switched to my long metric allen socket and the ratchet handle...

 

:sign yeah that:

 

Right there with Bongo!! Matter of fact, I have actually broken a couple of those really cheap handled HF "T" allen handles.. After that experience, if even needing to put questionable torque on cheap HF "T"s, I just slide the box end of a matching sized box/open end wrench up the allen shaft to the handle, then slip another box end over the open end end of the wrench attached to the allen shaft and use it to apply torque to the T handled allen.. Works great..

If you do break a handle on one of those cheapy T's dont throw the remaining allen away, just take a dremel cutoff wheel (or bench grinder) and cut the end of the allen off that the T is molded around. Now you have an extra long straight allen that you can use with a small hand held impact wrench (should be one of those in EVERY tool box in America IMHO). You simply use a matching socket size to the allen on the 3/8 drive of the impact, that combination works AWESOME for slave screws like we are talking about...

[cowpuc]

Like every other bolt on a bike the steel bolts like to bond into aluminum. What I've found to work the best is to use the socket type Allen wrenches and once seated in the bolt give it a few light raps with a hammer. The shock and vibration breaks that bond and they back right out. The key here is to look at where you're hammering and not get crazy with it to the point of cracking aluminum. I've done it on auto transmissions and bikes for years, works real well on those Phillips screws too. I took a carb apart recently on a Honda Shadow that somebody had the screws half stripped, hit em with a flat punch and backed em right out. The owner had already given up getting it apart and was ready to order a carb. Had carb cleaned and him riding within an hour.

 

:sign yeah that:

 

Sometimes even taking a smaller sized brazing torch tip and placing the flame right in the center of the head of the screw/bolt/allen head and heating it a little will help in getting the steel to release from the aluminum... The absolute WORST nightmare I have seen due to what Corporal Newkirk is talking about here has to due with that happening with Spark Plugs in Aluminum heads = NIGHTMARE waiting to happen!!! I had a friend who was bragging to me about not having to swap out plugs for over 100k miles.. To which I replied,,, all good till ya gotta swap in new plugs = talk about inviting Murph to your birthday party!!

[RDawson]

:sign yeah that:

 

Sometimes even taking a smaller sized brazing torch tip and placing the flame right in the center of the head of the screw/bolt/allen head and heating it a little will help in getting the steel to release from the aluminum... The absolute WORST nightmare I have seen due to what Corporal Newkirk is talking about here has to due with that happening with Spark Plugs in Aluminum heads = NIGHTMARE waiting to happen!!! I had a friend who was bragging to me about not having to swap out plugs for over 100k miles.. To which I replied,,, all good till ya gotta swap in new plugs = talk about inviting Murph to your birthday party!!

 

Just keep that torch away from the carb screws. Bad things happen when it goes boom :225: :rotfl:

[cowpuc]

Just keep that torch away from the carb screws. Bad things happen when it goes boom :225: :rotfl:

 

Yeah,, when working in gas fumed areas it's probably best to not lite the torch, just use the tip of the torch tip, unlit, to tap on the heads of the screws :rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl:

Edited April 16, 2019 by cowpuc
my brain told my finger to type "on" but my finger typed "and". I think my finger is getting old!!