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rear wheel bearing/seal order

dna9656
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dna9656

dna9656

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Is this diagram easier to read?

 

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=114349

 

Also read over this Word doc:

 

Very much so but ummm. There isn't anything that looks like this: I get the steel tube as a spacer, but the other is sheet metal and they call it a "flange, spacer" ,,,, and this is installed from the

 

IMG_20180909_094905913.jpg

 

And the 2 are not coming apart without some sort of whacking involved.

Edited by dna9656
dna9656

dna9656

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PERFECT... as usual, now the order of placement please? and Ii have one piece I have to (another!) question.

 

IMG_20180909_123845624.jpgIMG_20180909_124927135.jpg Is this piece ok? I think it is.... those lines that look like cracks are white grease that is packed in the bearing this fits into (I think) from the vendor. Nothing Yamaha has looks (not enough (apparently) for me anyway) like the items in the picture.

Edited by dna9656
Marcarl

Marcarl

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PERFECT... as usual, now the order of placement please? and Ii have one piece I have to (another!) question.

 

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=114370https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=114371 Is this piece ok? I think it is.... those lines that look like cracks are white grease that is packed in the bearing this fits into (I think) from the vendor. Nothing Yamaha has looks (not enough (apparently) for me anyway) like the items in the picture.

That is the inner race to the needle bearing, it is a separate part number. Small diameter goes to the outside of the wheel

dna9656

dna9656

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Is the part still serviceableIMG_20180909_124927135.jpg with the lines in it? 90387-203h7-00-Collar (2).jpg

dna9656

dna9656

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When I pulled the bearings the rest of what was in the wheel fell out of the hub, I had no chance to take a pic.

Some things have to go inside the hub before the large bearing is installed so what's the first thing that goes into the wheel? I think it's the needle bearing? BTW is the grease in the needle bearing compatible with all greases or do we use that grease, do I not worry about it or what? There is no getting the factory installed grease out of that needle bearing without ruining the rubber seals on both sides so I was wondering....

What is next that goes into the hub? The flange? If so in what direction is the "open cup" side supposed to face, towards the rotor or no? How does it stay in pace inside the hub? Do I tap it onto the large bushing, if so how far? I think it has to be installed with the axle in place so that indicates to me there must be an order of install or proper technique that isn't obvious to me.

OK Prarriehammer call me dense! Your pic above answers my questions; all except which way the "cup" side of the flange faces AND I take it the FLANGE is "pressed on" the long bushing but the bushing can't reside in the hub without the axle?

How are the "fingers" removed for lubrication please?

Edited by dna9656
Marcarl

Marcarl

Posted
Posted
When I pulled the bearings the rest of what was in the wheel fell out of the hub, I had no chance to take a pic.

Some things have to go inside the hub before the large bearing is installed so what's the first thing that goes into the wheel? I think it's the needle bearing? BTW is the grease in the needle bearing compatible with all greases or do we use that grease, do I not worry about it or what? There is no getting the factory installed grease out of that needle bearing without ruining the rubber seals on both sides so I was wondering....

What is next that goes into the hub? The flange? If so in what direction is the "open cup" side supposed to face, towards the rotor or no? How does it stay in pace inside the hub? Do I tap it onto the large bushing, if so how far? I think it has to be installed with the axle in place so that indicates to me there must be an order of install or proper technique that isn't obvious to me.

OK Prarriehammer call me dense! Your pic above answers my questions; all except which way the "cup" side of the flange faces AND I take it the FLANGE is "pressed on" the long bushing but the bushing can't reside in the hub without the axle?

How are the "fingers" removed for lubrication please?

Start from the beginning of this thread and I think you'll find most of the answers to your questions.

Prairiehammer

Prairiehammer

Posted
Posted
I don't have Word. So I can't see it.

 

Doug

 

6. Installing the new bearings: we laid out the parts and slid them onto the axle to verify we understood how it needed to go back together. Started with the large sealed bearing, then the Spacer Flange (open side against the bearing, followed by the long Spacer, then the Collar (Inner Race of the needle bearing) and then the needle bearing itself (which we had not yet greased up and so we did not actually slide the collar into it). This is the point where we first really understood how it all was meant to work. When we initially slid the Spacer Flange up against the large bearing, it was contacting the bearing’s rubber seal and wanted to turn with the outer race. We knew that couldn’t be right, and it finally dawned on us that the long Spacer was meant to fit through the Spacer Flange and thus keep the flange from contacting the rubber seal.

a. So the next step was to insert the long Spacer into the Spacer Flange. This is accomplished simply by laying the Spacer Flange on a flat surface (open side down) and tapping the long spacer through the center until it comes into contact with the flat surface. The end result is the long Spacer protrudes thru the flange to allow it to contact the bearing while preventing the outer edge of the Flange Spacer from touching the bearing seal or outer race. We verified that by sliding everything back onto the axle and now the only parts touching were those that lined up with the inner race of both bearings.

b. Lay the wheel with the large bearing side up

c. Insert the Spacer/Flange Spacer assembly into the hub (long spacer first – it will protrude out the other side of the hub).

d. Insert the new large bearing into the hub and gently hammer into place. We used the tip from the XS11 instructions and had already cut a notch out of the old bearing, so we laid the old bearing on top of the new one and hammered on that until the new one was completely seated. The old bearing pops right out of the wheel housing when squeezed with a pair of plyers.

e. Install the circlip

f. Install the new seal

g. Flip the wheel over – the Spacer/Flange Spacer assembly should slip back down and sit on the newly installed bearing

h. Grease the new needle bearing

i. Install new needle bearing – again we used the old needle bearing (which we also had notched) as a hammering tool.

j. Apply a little grease to the new Collar (inner race) and insert into the needle bearing. It should butt against the Spacer inside the hub.

k. Install the oil seal

l. Reinstall the hub per the instructions in the Rear Wheel Service document

i. Apply grease to the inside of the hub and to the six posts that fit into the wheel.

ii. Check the o-ring on the wheel to be sure it is in place before you replace the hub and circlip.

7. The wheel is now ready for installation.

dna9656

dna9656

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Open Office, (free download) will open that document

 

Ya know, I USED to have that program but that was 2 computers ago and had forgotten what the program was! Now; thanks to you guys i can get it again! Will D/L tonight! THANKS!

dna9656

dna9656

Posted
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Posted
Remove the circlip that holds the "clutch" (drive fingers). Pull the "clutch" from the wheel. The procedure is explained in a multitude of posts here and in the service manual. :doh:

 

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=114385https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=114386https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=114387

 

PERFECT!!!!

 

THANK YOU SO MUCH!

 

Y'all are up early! You and Marcarl!!

SpencerPJ

SpencerPJ

Posted
Posted (edited)
Ya know, I USED to have that program but that was 2 computers ago and had forgotten what the program was! Now; thanks to you guys i can get it again! Will D/L tonight! THANKS!

 

I'm pretty sure if you install Google Chrome on your computer (and that is my favorite internet browser anyway), that you can use their Google Docs, to open Word documents for free. Going and buying Microsoft Word isn't like it used to be. No more CD's, it's download and pay for subscriptions.

 

Edit: Actually you have to convert the file first.

 

HOWEVER, here is a link to download free Viewers for Word, Excel, and Powerpoint should you want

https://www.computerhope.com/issues/ch001169.htm

Edited by SpencerPJ
dna9656

dna9656

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Posted (edited)

Thanks to all! I got the bearings and seals in tonight,

I also replaced the "O" ring under the splines! I cleaned all, lightly greased all

(including the "fingers") mating parts, and put it together!

There was a day I was a pretty S/H mechanic but not so much any more.

Again thank you all for your pats. with me.

Edited by dna9656
  • 1 year later...
dna9656

dna9656

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Im still having trouble just taking it all apart without just ordering a whole new wheel on my 1983 or figuring out how to post a thread myself on it

Do you have the manual? If so follow the instructions there in, (if you have the proper and correct tools) or take the wheel to a dealer or a knowledgeable motorcycle mechanic. I have 1983 wheels on hand.

Please keep me informed.

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