Barnett Clutch Upgrade:

[Jinx]

I've ran Barnett clutches in other bikes in the past and am considering one for this Royal Star. My questions: Anybody run one, which type of the two, and also do the pressure plate conversion? What were the realized benefits after the conversion? I've not had problems with slippage or chatter at all but do have clutch drag once the bike warms to operating temperature. I have just over 25k on the clock and I'm not a big guy, hard rider, nor ride two up very often. I do have a trailer but really haven't pulled it that much but plan to in the future.

 

Thanks,

 

Jinx

[camos]

I've not had problems with slippage or chatter at all but do have clutch drag once the bike warms to operating temperature.

Drag as in still trying to go with the lever all the way in? There is a good chance there is air in the system. Bleeding is worth a try.

[Jinx]

Drag as in still trying to go with the lever all the way in? There is a good chance there is air in the system. Bleeding is worth a try.

 

Hi there. No it doesn't try to pull the bike at all. I can still push it back with my feet but there is more forward "jump" when I place it into gear from neutral when hot than cold. It is also more difficult to shift from 1st gear to neutral when hot but can be done.

 

I've bled the system a couple of times with the bike on the maintenance stand and level, leaned to the right, and left using both a bottle with fluid and into open air without a bottle.

 

Thanks,

[RDawson]

How long since an oil change? Old oil causes the same symptoms.

[Jinx]

How long since an oil change? Old oil causes the same symptoms.

 

Clutch drag has always been my indicator of change time. However, the last three oil changes with less than 250 miles on each are doing the same thing. Rotella T6, Rotella T6 w/MotorKote, then currently Mobil 1 15W-50 synthetic. Once the temperature comes up to operating, the "drag" returns. Not there at all on initial cold start but within 10 minutes ride time it is there but minor. Rode to Chicago last week and it was a struggle to back the bike into a parking spot while in gear upon coming off the interstate about 170 miles straight.

 

I had a couple of Z1 900 Kawasaki's, (1973, 1975) that did the same thing and I replaced the clutches in those to cure the problem. They were cable release so air wasn't a possibility.

 

While I'm certain it's just a fluke, the "chirp" I have in this bike gained significantly with the addition of the MotorKote product in less than 50 miles. I changed to the Mobil 1 15W-50 hoping to quiet it back down but it hasn't happened.

Edited August 9, 2018 by Jinx

[videoarizona]

Clutch drag and hard finding neutral after a run was always a good indication for me to change the oil as well.

 

I've run dino 20-50wt Yamalube with no creep issues and last oil change tried the rotella T6...still no issues.

With Dino oil the motor was quieter....others have posted opposite results. Go figure.

 

I'll be following along with how you solve this.

[Jinx]

I ran Yamalube 20W-50 for years in the bike without issue before switching to T6 Rotella. I'm going to go back to the Yamalube pretty quickly here to ascertain if it does anything.

 

I received the clutch basket and cover gasket this afternoon in the mail. I need to purchase more gear paste as don't want to run out once the job is opened up.

[Rafterd]

I ran Yamalube 20W-50 for years in the bike without issue before switching to T6 Rotella. I'm going to go back to the Yamalube pretty quickly here to ascertain if it does anything.

 

I received the clutch basket and cover gasket this afternoon in the mail. I need to purchase more gear paste as don't want to run out once the job is opened up.

 

Gear paste??

[Jinx]

Gear paste??

 

Yes, the product you paint onto intermeshing teeth to reveal a contact pattern. Use to call it lead paste, gear paint, etc. dependent upon whom it was purchased from. Regardless it's painted onto a gear, then rotate the gear to see how it, and it's mate, make contact with each other. There is a definite contact patch area required or noise/vibration is the result. This needs verified to rule out bad, or worn parts.

[Rafterd]

Gotcha, I always used white lithium grease. But it’s only needed if the gears are adjustable. I don’t believe those are. Are they?

[Jinx]

Gotcha, I always used white lithium grease. But it’s only needed if the gears are adjustable. I don’t believe those are. Are they?

 

Lithium smears too much to my liking. The actual "paint" leaves a really easy to read pattern without a lot of transfer meaning only the contact patch area transfers.

 

I've not been into the case yet but the gearset does not look to have any adjustability other than maybe fore and aft through shims. I'm interested in what the heel, toe, power, and coast sides looks like citing these areas did not make noise when new and what has changed. Once I know that information, I can move towards correction. Many of the particulars of helical gearing apply to spur gearing also but spur is much stronger, easier to manufacture, and less expensive but always noisier in operation.

 

No secrets here nor am I going to try to make any money from this. However, and with that being said, most bikes have inherent flaws with them. Ever ride a Honda Valkerie, (sp)? That high gear whine in a lot of them is much worse than these on the Ventures. I like my bike a lot and wish to keep it for quite a spell longer is my only motivation and several feel the same way. Only real difference is I'm not willing to live with it as is.