Fork Oil - Level or Quantity

[sarges46]

They wont be the cheapest but yammi still has them. Any of the motorcycle stores on the internet should have them.

[Dano]

Is there a way, and if not, where can I get seals?

www.flatoutmotorcycles.com is the place to go to order parts, just mention you're with venturerider.org when you place an order. Best prices online for parts. I know you can rebuild them yourself, but there are some special tools you need to make, and it's not a clean job. While you're in there, might as well change the "sliders" and bushings, too. http://www.buckeye performance.com has a complete kit for 125 bucks that contains seals, bushings, dust seals, etc. for your rebuild.

 

Good luck

 

Dan

[Gearhead]

The seals alone aren't too much, should be less than 30 bucks for the pair. Replacing the seals yourself IS the cheap way out. There is no easy way out, other than ignoring it. This will get messier and messier, soiling your brake pads, blowing back on you, etc. Eventually (this usually takes awhile), the fork will leak enough oil out that it has insufficient lubrication and the fork will be damaged.

 

Jeremy

[Squeeze]

I have to review my Findings.

 

I got another Fork this Week and while doing the preliminary Maintenance on the 'new' Legs, i found the Spring very soft, compared to the Springs i have in my Bike. I bought the Bike used and the P/O didn't have had much of Information. So i thought i'd give the softer Springs a Try and mounted the Forklegs yesterday. After first Testride, the Fork bottomed out on a Railroad Crossing. The Road is not bad there, so i know this were the wrong Springs for me. I returned to my Shop and exchanged the Springs. The Springs of my Fork were pretty thicker on the Wire and the Windings. So, considering many Postings about Progressive Springs i've read before, i'm these are heavier Aftermarket Springs, maybe from Progressive. I did only the 8 miles Run home last Night, but i like them and the Handlebars doesn't shake anymore when going over a Bump. Encouraged Riding and Highspeed Run needs to be investigated later today. I'll investigate the old Forks and let you know my Findings.

 

 

So, my new Facts are:

for After Market (prob. Progressive) Spring

full compressed Fork Tubes

no Spring attached

Airchamber more than 250 mm from Top of the inner Tube

Edited June 7, 2008 by Squeeze

[bobcat]

I have two things... Dick, I have a rear monoshock that I recieved when I bought my bike... I have been debating if I should save it or sell it.

 

The other thing a painful newbie question... sorry everyone... I'm being told that the seal is going on my front forks because little bit of oil coming out the top. It doesnt sound terribly hard to fix, but I am a poor college student that would like a cheap way to "make it work" forever. Is there a way, and if not, where can I get seals?

Try this, you have nothing to lose...I did this and it worked on mine..My rt front fork was leaking to the point where fluid was running down the fork and getting in my brake pads..I had a container of LUCAS POWER STEERING STOP LEAK that I used in my Ford truck so I figured why not..I lifted the dust cover on the fork seal and put a bead of stop leak around the top of the seal then put the dust cover back in place..(while on the center stand) It took a little while to work itself in but the fork quit leaking and hasn't leaked for about 2 months now..As an after thought I'm considering adding about 1 or 2 oz of stop leak to the fork oil but for now I'll let well enough alone....

[Gearhead]

I did only the 8 miles Run home last Night, but i like them and the Handlebars doesn't shake anymore when going over a Bump.

 

 

Squeeze, what exactly was changed which might account for losing the shake? And did you really mean 250mm on the fork oil level? That's 10 inches, which sounds like an awfully low level.

 

Jeremy

[Squeeze]

Jeremy, i mounted a Pair of other, used Fork Legs coming from a '90 VR.

 

My front shook the Handlebars when going over a Bump for about half an Inch seen from the End of the Grips and always felt bouncing. This is how i bought the Bike 4 Years ago and it was getting worse over time. Since i plan on some serious Rides with the Misses on the back Seat, i wanted this sorted out badly. The ride was harsh too, even if i did go for 7.5 Weight Fork Oil on my first Try in May. This worked out fine in Terms of giving a smother Ride over Bumps, but did nothing on the shaking of the Bars. And in fast Corners, there was not much Confidence because of the light Oil and a very low damping on the rebound.

 

I didn't got too much of riding over the Weekend, but the Bike feels much more stable and trustworthy, not as my Max of Course, but it's way better as is was before and now i feeling comfortable with the Wife on the back Seat. The upcoming Fork brace will add some Rigidity and then, this will be like i need the Bike to be. Rock Solid and holding Track and Trail until the Tires start slipping.

 

 

Yes, i adjusted the Air chamber to 250mm/10 Inches of Air without Springs and the Legs fully compressed and measured from the Top of the Leg and after giving at least some 20 Strokes on each Leg to pump the Fluid into the Damping Units. This also complies somehow with the 409 ml of Oil stated in the Shop Manual.

 

I figure, i will find one of the Tubes bent on the old Fork when dismounting them tomorrow Evening. I did find the Legs moving different and with different Force needed on my first Try in May, but I've seen so much different Forks, some even have had the Damping in the left and Rebound in right Leg. So, i figured this could be an Option, was but smelling the Rat in there.