Zerk fitting under the flat rubber cover near the gear shifter

[uhfradarwill]

Anyone know what this is for. I've failed to find this info yet.

Thanks

Will

[RDawson]

Clutch slave cylinder bleeder, not a zerk.

[uhfradarwill]

Clutch slave cylinder bleeder, not a zerk.

Many thanks RDawson.

[GaryZ]

It is my habit to change the brake fluid and clutch fluid at least every two years. The difference with fresh fluid can be surprising. The fitting that you asked about is equal to the fitting found on the brake caliper. I use a simple method to bleed air from the system or replace the fluid;

 

A short piece of rubber hose (3") that is tight on bleed fitting, a clear plastic hose that is tight in the rubber hose and long enough to reach a clear bottle or jar on the ground. Place the rubber end on the bleed fitting and the other end (plastic) in the jar with enough water or old fluid to keep the hose in the fluid. Remove the master cylinder cover, open the bleed fitting, and slowly squeeze the handle (slowly or it will squirt out!). You will see the dirty fluid coming out of the clear tube. Repeat until the master gets low on fluid. Do not allow the master to suck air!. Add fresh fluid to the master. Repeat until fresh fluid is coming out of the tube. Close the bleed fitting, top off the master cylinder, and reinstall the cover. Done.

 

[camos]

It is my habit to change the brake fluid and clutch fluid at least every two years. The difference with fresh fluid can be surprising. The fitting that you asked about is equal to the fitting found on the brake caliper. I use a simple method to bleed air from the system or replace the fluid;

 

A short piece of rubber hose (3") that is tight on bleed fitting, a clear plastic hose that is tight in the rubber hose and long enough to reach a clear bottle or jar on the ground. Place the rubber end on the bleed fitting and the other end (plastic) in the jar with enough water or old fluid to keep the hose in the fluid. Remove the master cylinder cover, open the bleed fitting, and slowly squeeze the handle (slowly or it will squirt out!). You will see the dirty fluid coming out of the clear tube. Repeat until the master gets low on fluid. Do not allow the master to suck air!. Add fresh fluid to the master. Repeat until fresh fluid is coming out of the tube. Close the bleed fitting, top off the master cylinder, and reinstall the cover. Done.

 

That's basically how I do it too although with a couple of small differences. In the past I used 7mm tubing which fit the bleeder tightly. Currently I'm using 1/4" tubing which needs to have the end opened up a bit to fit the bleeder. It's easier to find 1/4" tubing than metric tubing around here. My tubing is 24" long and easily reaches the waste bottle, which just happens to be a Tequila bottle, on the ground. There is no need to put water in it since the hose cannot fall out of it.

 

The most important part of this technique is to have the hose go up an inch or two from the bleeder so fluid sits on top of the bleeder valve which prevents air from getting into the system while the valve is open.

 

Pumping slow does not do any good for the actual bleeding part. In fact, since air will rise towards the MC, the slower you pump the longer it will take to get the air out of the bleeder valve. Putting the lid loosely on the MC reservoir without the bellows gasket will keep the back squirt from being a problem.

 

Bleeding the clutch this way will take less than 10 minutes.