Changing ignition Box ordered the Ignitech Upgrade

[ken5124]

Hi guys, sorry the manual I have is hard to read, what do I all have to do to get the stock ignition box out ? As in where is it located and what has to come out to get to it ?

 

Thanks

 

Ken

[snyper316]

Hi guys, sorry the manual I have is hard to read, what do I all have to do to get the stock ignition box out ? As in where is it located and what has to come out to get to it ?

 

Thanks

 

Ken

 

Well if it isn't on your air box your gonna have to take the front fairing off, pull the inner fairing, take down the coil rack, I almost want to say you have to remove batter and battery box then you should be able to unplug the coils and computer. Then you can pull it out thru the top. You will want to relocate your Ignition box to the top of the air box or in the left hand fairing.

[bongobobny]

Yup, what he said! It's mounted under the bracket that the coil pack is mounted on, which is under the battery box in front of the carbs. The boost sensor (vacuum advance) is mounted next to it. It helps to remove both upper fairings to get to it, and you might as well remove the lowers as well but it is not necessary, it just gets them out of the way and prevents any possibility of accidentally breaking them...

[garyS-NJ]

Hi guys, sorry the manual I have is hard to read, what do I all have to do to get the stock ignition box out ? As in where is it located and what has to come out to get to it ?

 

Thanks

 

Ken

Nope. And others will chime in. On my '84, I took out my tci to troubleshoot and definitely didn't remove main front fairings (although my front lowers and sides were already off). It was some work with a short Phillips head I think or maybe a right angle Phillips drive. I removed the airbox and got in from the carb side. But if you are just gonna install the ignitec ignition, you need only get the cabling off to connect to the to ignitec harness. The ignited mounts on too of your airbox and you will need to get a map sensor with it. Dingy was selling a kit with the ignited programmed with his map and included the harness and map sensor. All plug and play. I bought the connector so I could modify the ignition curve but never felt I needed to do it (the only thing I should do at minimum is make the rev limit higher, I think its at 7400 from dingy and I would go 8100, I think 8500 is safe but pushing it. Buy I,g direct from ignitec i don't know what curve you get

 

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[ken5124]

Thanks.. tried removing the air box this afternoon and I for sure can remove the cables from the OEM box/ !! Nice. May just leave the original in there .

 

Ken

[Patch]

Nope. And others will chime in. On my '84, I took out my tci to troubleshoot and definitely didn't remove main front fairings (although my front lowers and sides were already off). It was some work with a short Phillips head I think or maybe a right angle Phillips drive. I removed the airbox and got in from the carb side. But if you are just gonna install the ignitec ignition, you need only get the cabling off to connect to the to ignitec harness. The ignited mounts on too of your airbox and you will need to get a map sensor with it. Dingy was selling a kit with the ignited programmed with his map and included the harness and map sensor. All plug and play. I bought the connector so I could modify the ignition curve but never felt I needed to do it (the only thing I should do at minimum is make the rev limit higher, I think its at 7400 from dingy and I would go 8100, I think 8500 is safe but pushing it. Buy I,g direct from ignitec i don't know what curve you get

 

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

 

While I believe in the saying "my bike my way" raising the limit has a cost and a risk attached. 1st the valve springs are old and will likely not be able to keep up: this can cause missing at the higher range. Once they become that stressed they will begin to crack and miss throughout, then break.

The wrist pins are also at risk at higher reversed velocities (tdc)

Again in an older machine you would need to factor oil pressure_ any loss would have adverse affect on the crank pin journals for the same reason mentioned above.

 

Just a bit of hard earned experience..

[dna9656]

Hi guys, sorry the manual I have is hard to read, what do I all have to do to get the stock ignition box out ? As in where is it located and what has to come out to get to it ?

 

Thanks

 

Ken

 

Here's your very own easy to read Service manual and it's FREE!!!! Now, get yourself a computer and a large screen TV (monitor) out in your shop and you'll be able to see the pictures better, that aren't so bad once they are 12" square!

 

http://labs.trunkful.com/vrmanuals/index.cfm

[Prairiehammer]

One does not have to remove the main fairings to remove the TCI from the stock location.

Remove the air box and the lower fairing on the left side. Remove the black plastic "heat shield" over the front valve cover.

Use a number 3 Phillips, one inch long insert bit, taped into a ¼" socket mounted on a short handled ratchet to get the two screws that hold the TCI to the coil rack.

[garyS-NJ]

One does not have to remove the main fairings to remove the TCI from the stock location.

Remove the air box and the lower fairing on the left side. Remove the black plastic "heat shield" over the front valve cover.

Use a number 3 Phillips, one inch long insert bit, taped into a ¼" socket mounted on a short handled ratchet to get the two screws that hold the TCI to the coil rack.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=113780

If he's buying the ignitec, he could leave the to in there if the mounting screws present a problem.

 

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

[ken5124]

Here's your very own easy to read Service manual and it's FREE!!!! Now, get yourself a computer and a large screen TV (monitor) out in your shop and you'll be able to see the pictures better, that aren't so bad once they are 12" square!

 

http://labs.trunkful.com/vrmanuals/index.cfm

 

 

Thanks !