.45Cole Posted July 15, 2018 #1 Posted July 15, 2018 I have rehab'ed a 87 VR to roadworthy condition. Took complete carb work and some cables+ lots of brake work but I'm pretty happy with it. It does have a few probs: E1 on the shock adjust, will not run in auto but will eventually switch over to manual and pressure up. Anybody have an idea/ common failure? Loud gear winning noise on deceleration (when compression braking), seems like it's coming from right under me, any thoughts? I saw the rear shaft grease service, will check there and fluid in drive shaft Battery indicator warning, PO told me he replaced orig batt with one without accomodation for fluid level wire. Any workaround? Stereo, will not work without being hooked up to cassette player via din cord, will eventually link to mp3, but would like workaround for now Would like to disable the start in neutral switch I'm sure a few of there are already covered (batt, neutral switch, stereo) but i figured I'd ask if I was already posting, I'll look up some issues tomorrow, gear winning is the largest problem.
RDawson Posted July 15, 2018 #2 Posted July 15, 2018 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?489-Battery-Warning-Bypass
videoarizona Posted July 15, 2018 #3 Posted July 15, 2018 (edited) E1 on the shock adjust, will not run in auto but will eventually switch over to manual and pressure up. Anybody have an idea/ common failure? Not as common as the E4 failure. But I think KIC had the same problem. He fixed it (I think?) by doing something under the Tour Pack...solenoid??? Search for his posts.... Loud gear winning noise on deceleration (when compression braking), seems like it's coming from right under me, any thoughts? I saw the rear shaft grease service, will check there and fluid in drive shaft On my 89 it was a broken drive shaft. The shaft is splined so it will work just fine running loose. At the front of the shaft, there is the U joint. The bolt from the intermediate gear(?) that drives the Ujoint can break off...leaving the nut and end of the bolt inside the U joint just spinning around. On the other end of the drive shaft, the shaft ends with another threaded end that bolts into the drive gear for the rear end. Mine broke there. You can see the first possibility by peeling back the rubber dust cover over the U joint and spin the rear wheel...with scoot in neutral. If you see something loose tumbling around inside, it's the end of the intermediate gear...or whatever it's called. That's a big repair. For the latter possibility, you have to drop the rear wheel, unbolt the drive from the shaft assembly and pull out the shaft. Look for my posts about my whine. I repaired mine by buying a used rear end off of EBay and using the drive shaft out of it. Those are two possibilities.... Battery indicator warning, PO told me he replaced orig batt with one without accomodation for fluid level wire. Any workaround? Simple to do..I see a post has already been sent to you. Stereo, will not work without being hooked up to cassette player via din cord, will eventually link to mp3, but would like workaround for now It won't work because the stereo is looking for a signal from the tape unit. As long as the tape is connected by the Din plug, the radio works. You need to jumper the pins at the tape deck/radio din plug connection. There is a posting about that somewhere as well. There isn't a schematic for the electrical side (I don't think we ever found one) of the tape/radio connection, but I bet you could take an mp3 player...turn it on and using the headphone output...strip the wires off of a bad plug and with the bare ends...touch the pins of the din plug and you should get a signal coming out of the radio at some point. There was a device made in Spain by a member that sat between the two and and allowed you to plug in an MP3 player or phone, but they stopped making it a few years ago. Sorry I don't have time to search for those posts as I'm trying to get up to Phoenix for the week....gotta get going. hope this helps... OH, BTW, none of these are "common" problems. The 1st generation Venture Royale was pretty much a bullet proof scoot. With age comes problems...and these bikes are no exception. But it amazes us how well built these bikes are...still! Edited July 15, 2018 by videoarizona add
Patch Posted July 16, 2018 #4 Posted July 16, 2018 Here's the link for the class system repair below. Now on mine after following through this, I still had issues although less often. The following year I opened it up again and using my phone I took some closeups and found additional pin sloderings that had fractured. After fixing those it has been problem free for a couple of years now. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?493-CLASS-E4-Error-Repair Not sure I understand the neutral switch question? If your bike is in gear and the side stand is down the engine will not turn over nor should you want it too! If in gear and you pull the clutch in she should turn over, that would be expected - providing the side stand is up. Only if it is in neutral will the engine turn over while the side stand is down, this is what is expected since I believe 1985 or 86.
.45Cole Posted August 5, 2018 Author #5 Posted August 5, 2018 Update- I pulled the air module off the console and pulled it apart following the tech write up to get to the board. Didn't really look like I had a problem with any, but two looked a little suspicious. Soldered them (horrible job, figured I burned the board and for sure messed it it) plugged everything back together and IT WORKED PERFECTLY! +1 on being a venturerider member! I'll get used to the neutral switch start (can't start in gear) and the jiffy stand engine cut (in gear drop jiffy stand and bike engine cuts out). I'm about 80% sure the gear whining in from a broken nut on the pinion. I don't think it's a problem if I'm careful until the new rear end shows up.
Patch Posted August 5, 2018 #6 Posted August 5, 2018 Update- I pulled the air module off the console and pulled it apart following the tech write up to get to the board. Didn't really look like I had a problem with any, but two looked a little suspicious. Soldered them (horrible job, figured I burned the board and for sure messed it it) plugged everything back together and IT WORKED PERFECTLY! +1 on being a venturerider member! I'll get used to the neutral switch start (can't start in gear) and the jiffy stand engine cut (in gear drop jiffy stand and bike engine cuts out). This one seems confusing. Stand in up position, in gear, clutch in switches on, bike should start! Stand down in gear the bike should not start, this would be correct!i Is this the case? I'm about 80% sure the gear whining in from a broken nut on the pinion. I don't think it's a problem if I'm careful until the new rear end shows up. This is very dangerous, I would not recommend driving the bike. The final drive can and eventually will lock up and you will be thrown. My pinion gear, I was very lucky to make it back from my trip.
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