In search of high beam, how to open the switch etc

[Arxvz1200]

Hello,

My xvz1200 from 1984 has no high beam. Also the high beam light doesn't come on in the dash.

I measured voltage from the light bulp socket. I get constant about 4 volts to high beam wire. When I switch from low to high the low goes from 12 to 3,4 volts and high beam wire stays around 4 volts.

The horn works fine and signal lights as well.

I tried to open the light switch but got stuck with the choke ring thing. One of the many questions is how do I open the swicth after I unscrewed 2 bolts from the bottom. What is the way to get the choke ring off ? See pic

 

Is there a separate relay for high beam ?

 

the bike runs and all other lights work as should. The battery warning is on, the battery probe has been cut.

The fuse box is new, changed by po. Fuses are good.

Any pointers where to look next are appreciated.

Thanks,

Anssi

[bongobobny]

Quite frankly, I don't think it is your switch but rather either a defective Reserve Light Unit or a bad headlight! Do you have a white light come on with high beams on the dash?? If so it is probably your high beam filament burned out. Disconnect your headlight and with an ohmmeter read the resistance between all 3 combinations of pins. 2 of the 3 readings should be about the same and the third should be the sum of the other close readings. Any opens means the real issue is the headlight.

 

You didn't try putting in an LED headlight, did you? The RLU does not work right with an LED light and has to be jumpered...

[Arxvz1200]

Thanks.

 

I'll measure the resistance tonite. I measured yesterday the voltage was 12 for low and constant 4 for high. I had the headlight off and measured from the wires coming to the lamp.

 

The white light isn't on not with low not with high beam.

 

The high beam hasn't worked during my time. Just trying to get it work, not messing with LED.

 

Thanks again. I'll check the resistance and report back.

A

[Arxvz1200]

I measured the resistance. Two had resistance third nothing, no connection, no resistance.

 

 

 

 

I tried to jump RLU so that I could rule that out.

According to these instructions.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?109958-Reserve-Lighting-Unit-(RSU)-Bypass-1988-Venture-Royale

 

I hope these are correct.

 

What happened was that low beam is constantly on, the hi/low switch does nothing, lamp warning light comes on. No white or blue in the dash.

 

 

I think I learned nothing and am more puzzled. I don't know whether RLU works. But if instruction about jumping RLU are correct then I have problems elsewhere.

 

 

I've reading about connections needed soldering in the dash unit. But i wish not to go there yet.

 

Any one any ideas ?

[bongobobny]

If you are reading an open circuit on one of the filaments then the headlight is no good!! There are three prongs on the headlight, a common for both filaments, and one prong for the low beam and another for the high beam! You did remove the headlight to read the resistance, right?

 

To help you out, here are what the wire colors are on the connector. The Black is common and ground. The Yellow/Green should be your low beam, and the Green/Red should be your high beam. (I might have those backwards, but I'm pretty sure I have them right.)

 

http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/84-85%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale%20DL%20Simplified%20Circuit%20Diagram%20Rev%20C.pdf

 

To make absolutely sure the headlight is good or bad, take a couple of clip leads and hook the pin that corresponds to the black wire when the bulb is plugged in, and with the headlight unplugged clip the "black lead" pin to the minus of your battery. Take another clip lead and one at a time hook the plus of the battery to one of the other two pins. The headlight should light up. Then remove the clip lead and hook the plus to the other pin and the headlight should light up again! If either filament does not light up then the bulb is no good!

 

From what you describe with measuring the bulb you say two pins had continuity but the third one is open. That is proof to me the one beam is burned out! Other than the white light not lighting on the dash (maybe that bulb is burned out too) it sounds as if the RLU is doing what it is supposed to, if one filament burns out it automatically switches to the other filament so you have light all the time!

 

Try a new headlight...

[Arxvz1200]

I wasn't measurin the bulb. I was measuring the wires coming to the bulb. Maybe I understood wrong.

I'm pretty confident we can rule the H4 headlight bulb out. But to 100 % sure I'll test it tomorrow.

 

Since jumping the RLU didn't give working results I have to search somewhere else.

 

Thanks for adding the diagram. I think I'll need to figure out the wires coming to the RLU and search for current and continuity there.

I'll have another dashboard maybe I shoud try that. Which would mean taking the fairings off.

 

It's one of those little things doesn't really bother daily but on occasions you need high beam you really do need it

And I like my bikes as original as can get ( maybe execpt for brakes)

 

Anssi

[Flyinfool]

You do NOT need to pull the fairing to get the dash out.

 

Test that bulb, Motorcycle bulbs do not live real long, especially if someone left a finger print on it.

[Arxvz1200]

Tested the bulb. it works.

 

There's continuity from the RLU plug to the bulb plug.

 

How does the circuit go before rlu there's hi/low switch, fuses, starterbutton, cmu ?

 

Can't be sure about RLU but that I jumped. To my understanding (which can always be questioned) the fault is "before" rlu.

 

Fuses are good. Starter button ok, cause the low beam works ?

 

Here's difference between RLU and RLU bypassed. I found out display acts differently as well. I have constant battery warning always.

 

with RLU

- low beam ok

- when I switch to Hi-beam, low goes out, high beam 3 volts. no light

- battery warning in the lcd, red light

 

 

RLU bypassed

- low beam ok. It's on constantly.

- when I switch to Hi-beam, low beam still on. Nothing happens from the switch when flicked. The low is constantly on.

- no battery warning but light icon on LCD ???

 

 

I'm trying read this thread to figure out what to measure

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?136223-RLU-BYPASS-question/page3&highlight=headlight

 

Anssi

[videoarizona]

 

I tried to jump RLU so that I could rule that out.

According to these instructions.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?109958-Reserve-Lighting-Unit-(RSU)-Bypass-1988-Venture-Royale

 

I hope these are correct.

 

 

I've reading about connections needed soldering in the dash unit. But i wish not to go there yet.

Any one any ideas ?

 

Regarding jumpering the RLU....I found that my 89 must be different as I tried 3 different combinations of jumpers before I got everything to work. But I don't think that's your problem. I think the RLU is working and you may have a bad solder joint in the computer. I could be wrong so let's start over. Put the RLU back in.

 

Download the PDF here for the switches on the handlebars....see if they are good and clean.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?43025-1983-1985-Clutch-Side-Electrical-Switch-Disassembly-and-Cleaning

 

 

Next we will look at the CMS computer....a bad solder joint at the connector can cause the problems you are having... weird right?

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?33328-Information-Display-Repair

 

Last, go here and download the service stuff for your year. Maybe this will help follow the circuits...

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?42358-1st-Gen-Wiring-Schematics-1983-1993

 

finally, @cimmer posted the properr sequence for me to jumper my RLU.....(just in case I'm wrong!)

+++++++++++++

"Looking over my RLU wires, I think the Green/White should be the Green/Red. My RLU doesn't have the G/W in its wiring harness but it does have a G/R. My high beams indicator does function properly and I dont have any alarms showing on the computer panel either. Also looking closing at the picture in post #1 of this tread, http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...+lighting+unit , you can tell he actually used the Green/Red. Try that and see if that makes a difference for you.

So connect the wires like this:

 

Tie Green/Red + Blue/Black + Blue/White together.

 

Tie Yellow/Green + Blue/Red together

 

Tie Black + Light Green together"

 

+++++++++++++

 

lets see if any of this helps.....

[Arxvz1200]

Thanks.

I'll have a spare dash so I'll look into that.

 

Regarding the switch removal I'm little stuck with not knowing how remove the choke (pic in the first post). I've learned to be extra careful with plastic bits.

 

I bypassed the rlu the way described.

Tie Green/Red + Blue/Black + Blue/White together.

 

Tie Yellow/Green + Blue/Red together

 

Tie Black + Light Green together"

 

Hopefully I have some time later today. To look at the spare dash.

 

I really appreciate the knowhow you guys have.

 

I'll get back.

 

 

[videoarizona]

Regarding choke:

 

Take the switch apart. Should be a couple of screws underneath/behind and separate it from bars.

 

I don't know if the choke is a part of the switch or separate like the throttle. I would think it would be separate and work just like the throttle...but I don't know. Just go slowly...it will make itself known as you go.

 

If they are together, there maybe some screws inside the switch that will separate it from the electrical side.

[Arxvz1200]

I've seen the light. The fault It was CMU.

 

I have spare dash which i swapped and lights works as they should!!!! I'm so happy. Glad I had that old dash, which I'd almost forgotten.

 

Now the last thing left is to deal with battery warning light.

 

Just went out to check that they really work as they should.And they do.

 

Because the spare dash tacho doesn't work I ended up taking only the computer unit from the spare.

So I only changed the cmu and now everything works.

I previously have tried to deal with battery warning ligth and I did get rid of it but I also got headlight warning light on. So I took the resistor out.

 

Now with the changed cmu maybe I'll give it try again.

 

Thanks again!!

[videoarizona]

Now take your computer apart and resolder the joints...then you will probably have a good spare!

In a previous post there is a link with pictures...

[bongobobny]

The battery probe bypass is a real simple one!! The logic circuit is looking for a logic level around 6 to 8 volts, which is why the probe was placed in the battery cell that it was. So, to get the proper voltage level, get a resistor that has a value of around 2,000 to 4,000 ohms (I believe the "recommended" value is 2200 ohms) with a wattage rating of 1/8 or 1/4 watts and wire it in series with the battery probe wire and 12 volts accessory. You want the resistor to go to the accessory line and not directly to the battery as you don't want it to draw current from the battery when the bike is setting as it will over time drain your battery.

 

There is a complete step by step procedure someplace in this site, probably in the 1st generation technical library, but all you need to know to do it has just been described to you...

[Arxvz1200]

Here's how the story continues.

Drove to get the resistor for the battery warning.

 

CMU said brake light out when braking. Bought bulps as well.

 

Fixed the battery warning bypass. Very happy.

 

Changed the taillight/brake light, but I get only light when braking. Fuse ok, the bulps ok.

I'm not sure if I had the taillight working with previous cmu.

Had a look at the wires under rear trunk, quick look seemed ok.

 

Don't tell me the taillight goes through CMU.

 

Anyway don't have time to work on the bike until next week. I'll need to fix the spare cmu. So that I can rule that out.

 

WoW it's been one of those days...

[videoarizona]

Yes...all lights, brake, stop, turn and headlight circuits go through the CMU (I think?). There are reed switches in the CMU..the purpose being to warn you of a dead bulb. For LED usage, they need to be jumpered. Under normal use, if the bulb and wiring is good, then I would suspect solder joint for the taillight/brake light circuit needs fixing, probably at the reed switch on one or both sides of circuit board. First check the connector at the CMU and make sure the brake wire is good, then go inside and look for bad solder joint. On both CMU's...as that was one of my guesses on your original CMU issue...a bad solder joint.

 

Search site for pictures and explanation. It's easy to do now that you know how to get there.

Edited July 19, 2018 by videoarizona
add, sp

[Flyinfool]

The Brake, Tail, Hi beam and Lo Beam go thru the CMU. If you plan to change any of these to LED you will most likely need to jumper the reed switches in the CMU or you will have bulb out warnings.

It is common to have cracked solder joints an all PC boards on the Venture where connectors are mounted. The CMU is no exception.

[videoarizona]

Look what I found.....from an 83...wonder if it's the same...

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/83-Yamaha-Venture-Royale-XVZ1200-1200-LEFT-HANDLEBAR-CONTROL-SWITCH-/381355474415?vxp=mtr&hash=item58ca8ebdef

[Arxvz1200]

Well I just couldn't wait. I had to take a look. I opened to computer that is not in the bike, it's the one with no high beam function.

Here are pics

Even I can tell it's not as suppose to.

This circuitboard/soldering stuff makes me feel little uncomfortable. I okay at carb cleaning, valve adjusting and etc timing, air/fuel mixture.

But if so many people can do it I guess I have a chance of repairing this little corner.

 

Other than that burned broken corner to me it looks ok.

 

- has that part something to do with high beam ?

- what is the part

- how to repair ?

- what else to inspect ?

 

[Arxvz1200]

It's the high beam in the corner

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?92274-How-do-you-quot-Jumper-the-CMU-quot-for-LED-s-bulbs-to-prevent-the-warning-light-coming-on&highlight=jumpers

 

 

I'm thinking of jumping high/low that way in the future I could update the lights in the future.

 

the high beam thingy has burned and broken off. I need to figure where the other end of jumper wire needs to go. The connection is under the burned black stuff.

 

Maybe I should use dremel to grind the burned stuff away ?

[Arxvz1200]

Looks the same, but mine is safely on the other side of the world

 

Look what I found.....from an 83...wonder if it's the same...

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/83-Yamaha-Venture-Royale-XVZ1200-1200-LEFT-HANDLEBAR-CONTROL-SWITCH-/381355474415?vxp=mtr&hash=item58ca8ebdef

[videoarizona]

Looks the same, but mine is safely on the other side of the world [/QUOT

 

I know Anssi, But yours is only the 2nd choke setup like this I've seen. The picture was the first. I linked it so you could see the other pictures and maybe get get a clue as to how it comes apart...

 

So, it looks like it's one piece...so you should be OK to take the unit off the handlebars. From the looks of one of the photos, the choke cable slips off. There must be another part of the choke that stays on the bars and holds the cable.

 

Let us know how it goes....

Edited July 20, 2018 by videoarizona
correction

[Arxvz1200]

Didn't know that choke is rare. I'll leave the switch as it is. Since the fault is the computer unit and scared of breaking something.

I'll start another thread for computer rescue attempt.

thans

Anssi