Exhaust Gasket Replacement?

[luvmy40]

I was able to track down the exhaust leak on the #1 header today. It is leaking around the flange gasket right after the head connector. Is it possible to replace that gasket without dropping the collector completely?

[gaj1917]

If you're referring to the parts #11 through 16, then yes you'll have to drop the collector chamber.

If on the other hand, you're referring to the front exhaust pipes then just loosen the collector mounting nuts enough to drop the collector an inch or so. That will give you some wiggle room to remove the exhaust pipe.

Edited July 8, 2018 by gaj1917

[luvmy40]

Yep, Part no. 16 is the culprit. I'll just seal it up with some high temp liquid metal and deal with it later if I ever need to.

Edited July 8, 2018 by luvmy40

[Prairiehammer]

Yep, Part no. 16 is the culprit. I'll just seal it up with some high temp liquid metal and deal with it later if I ever need to.

 

That copper donut was leaking on my 1983 back in 2002. I've done the repair with success. I found that 14 gauge solid conductor wire (as from Romex house wiring) worked well. Twelve gauge wire was too fat and made fitting the clamp difficult. Also, very important: the wire must be as long as the circumference of the pipe where you are trying to install it. If it is too long, then the wire ends will overlap and be too fat for the clamp. It is OK if the wire is SLIGHTLY shorter than the pipe circumference. When you get the clamp started tightening over all the pieces make certain that the copper wire is lying alongside the stock copper gasket and evenly within the clamp trough. You may find that after tightening the clamp and getting the exhaust pipe hot that the copper wire has softened and conformed to the clamp and pipe, necessitating some more tightening of the clamp. Keep checking the clamp and tightening for the first few rides. Finally the wire will fit very well inside. You can even install another 14 gauge wire to the other side of the copper gasket if needed. I did on #1 cylinder on my '83.

Good luck with this repair. It can be done but it is admittedly a difficult space to access and work within.

 

 

 

Edited July 11, 2018 by Prairiehammer

[luvmy40]

I used Quick Steel high temp. paste. I packed it in with a small "Popsicle" stick and tightened the clamp back up. It appears to have worked. The popping is gone and I have put 60mi. +/-.

 

I may rue that decision if I ever have to take the manifold off, but I'll burn that bridge later if need be.