Fork oil

[dna9656]

Looking for recommendation for a brand of fork oil. I have a XVZ13U I THINK i want to use 15w...

[Patmac6075]

Over the course of the last couple of years I’ve been experimenting with fork oil.

After a complete rebuild (new progressive springs, seals and sliders, plus brand new E3 tires), I started with Motul 15w, at speeds over 25mph it was rock solid, but below 25 I had a very annoying “pogo-ing” effect (imagine riding on a worn out rumble strip). I then tried to mix the Motul 15w and 10w to make a 12.5w, the pogoing Was still pretty evident, then I tried a mix of Lucas 15w & 10w, the pogoing was almost nonexistent (almost). About two weeks ago I replaced my anti-dives with cover plates and used straight Lucas synthetic 10w, absolutely zero pogo....so far, I’m very happy!

This is just my opinion, but since there is no standardized testing fork fork oil, one company’s 10w may not give the same results as another company’s 10w. Perhaps if I used Lucas all along, I may not have had issues....I think the Motul was very heavy.

[s.tyler58]

"I replaced my anti-dives with cover plates "

 

Where did you get your cover plates?

 

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[dna9656]

"I replaced my anti-dives with cover plates "

 

Where did you get your cover plates?

 

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My anti-dives are still installed.

[bongobobny]

"I replaced my anti-dives with cover plates "

 

Where did you get your cover plates?

 

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If I remember right, they were made by a FORMER member Dingy, but maybe it was someone else like Flying Fool, or maybe Earl, Skydoc_17 will know. Me, I like my anti-dives...

[dna9656]

I'm gonna by the Lucas Synthetic fork oil locally, unless you all know of a problem using synthetic or Lucas oils....it works out about the same money as on line oils.

[CaseyJ955]

My anti-dives are still installed.

 

I would leave them installed if you have OEM springs. Once I went to aftermarket springs I didnt need them anymore, they are still there but unplugged (MKI are hydraulically actuated, MKII are electric). I no longer need air PSI in the forks either.

[dna9656]

I would leave them installed if you have OEM springs. Once I went to aftermarket springs I didnt need them anymore, they are still there but unplugged (MKI are hydraulically actuated, MKII are electric). I no longer need air PSI in the forks either.

 

I just ordered the 11-1112 Progressive Suspension Spring Kit, We'll see how it goes with the anti dives.... I have never braked that hard to need them so far as I know.....maybe I'm just an old man.....

[cimmer]

I have the progressive front fork springs with 15W Bel-ray fork oil and I run about 3 -4 lbs of air and my antidives are unplugged but still attached to the forks. My future plans are to cap them off when I change out the fork oil the next time.

 

Rick F.

[dna9656]

I have the progressive front fork springs with 15W Bel-ray fork oil and I run about 3 -4 lbs of air and my anti-dives are unplugged but still attached to the forks. My future plans are to cap them off when I change out the fork oil the next time.

 

Rick F.

 

Rick, I would be interested knowing your results...Thanks!

[djh3]

Its the weight of the oil not the brand. I had a 2nd gen and went up one level on weight when I changed. I think OEM is 5w and I went to 10W. I let me not have to run air in front forks as the fluid is doing more dampening.

As for the pogo effect, think of the shock as a cylinder. The piston has a hole in it to allow the fluid to go thru one way to slow down the action. Now thicken the fluid it dont move as well. So what has to work as suspension? The tire. To thin and you can possibly get it to aireate and foam.

[dna9656]

Its the weight of the oil not the brand. I had a 2nd gen and went up one level on weight when I changed. I think OEM is 5w and I went to 10W. I let me not have to run air in front forks as the fluid is doing more dampening.

As for the pogo effect, think of the shock as a cylinder. The piston has a hole in it to allow the fluid to go thru one way to slow down the action. Now thicken the fluid it don't move as well. So what has to work as suspension? The tire. To thin and you can possibly get it to aireate and foam.

 

So if you ran a little PSI you'd have (in effect) a gas filled shock like cars and trucks use to stop that foaming....

[djh3]

possibly. If its to thin the shock can go up and down to easy so to speak. Some air pressure may help to not compress, but dont do much for you on the up stroke.

[cimmer]

I have ran mine with no air and now with 4 lbs air in the front forks and I find I prefer the 4 lbs as it seems to handle better for me. I didnt put a lot of preload in the front forks with the progressive and I am sure that will make a big difference also. I been running the rear shock at the med level for my alone ride time and I did manage to find a shock with a progressive rear spring already installed on it. The key to finding one of those is to look for a red spring on the shock instead of a black one and that is a progressive rear spring. They are no longer available from progressive by the way.

I just helped a buddy install a new set of progressive springs in his 89 VR and we didnt use the plastic spacers at all in his and he likes the ride. He had almost 30 years and 65K on the old springs and noticed a big difference with the 15W and 4 lbs of air.

 

Your best bet is to see what you like the best when you are riding and go with that.

 

Rick F.

[dna9656]

I have ran mine with no air and now with 4 lbs air in the front forks and I find I prefer the 4 lbs as it seems to handle better for me. I didnt put a lot of preload in the front forks with the progressive and I am sure that will make a big difference also. I been running the rear shock at the med level for my alone ride time and I did manage to find a shock with a progressive rear spring already installed on it. The key to finding one of those is to look for a red spring on the shock instead of a black one and that is a progressive rear spring. They are no longer available from progressive by the way.

I just helped a buddy install a new set of progressive springs in his 89 VR and we didnt use the plastic spacers at all in his and he likes the ride. He had almost 30 years and 65K on the old springs and noticed a big difference with the 15W and 4 lbs of air.

 

Your best bet is to see what you like the best when you are riding and go with that.

 

Rick F.

 

No one knows this buy I don't have a Royale, I have a Standard and they don't have the air ride suspension. I have pre 86s that have the air ride, can that be moved over to the 88s?

[cimmer]

I honestly dont know.. do you have the schrader valve on the bike anywhere to add air manually to the system? If you did, then I would think you could add the components for the on board compressor.

 

Rick F.

[dna9656]

I honestly dont know.. do you have the schrader valve on the bike anywhere to add air manually to the system? If you did, then I would think you could add the components for the on board compressor.

 

Rick F.

 

No, none of that is on the bike, the only adjustment capability is in the shock.... I have AT LEAST 2 bikes with the air system on it but no controller boxes that work. The air lines look pretty tired, I would guess air shock tubing could be used but what about the fittings? The only OEM parts available are O rings, a washer here and there, nothing that's going to be of any real help restoring a "leveling system"as Yamaha calls it.

[cimmer]

You might be able to locate most of the items on Ebay if you really are after it.. Add some preload to the front springs and you should be ok..

 

Rick F.

[dna9656]

You might be able to locate most of the items on Ebay if you really are after it.. Add some preload to the front springs and you should be ok..

 

Rick F.

 

Found the rear Shrader valve (there is so much I used to know that have forgotten in the past 2 years I haven't been riding) for the rear shock, it even had air pressure in it. I looked up the range and put 60 PIS in there. Somewhere I remember having the collars (bought on Ebay I think) used to pressurize the forks, I don't think i got around to installing them, i will start looking around, they will prolly appear as i slowly straighten out the MESS that has become my shop.

[cimmer]

I thought there was a schrader valve for the front forks also but I been mistaken before.

I just rode about 350 miles on Saturday and had only 4lbs of air in the fronts with the progressives and 15W and the bike rode great.. handled all the bumps and holes with no issues and gave me a nice smooth ride. I like a little firmer ride and that is what I had. I had the rear shock at the medium auto setting which is 42 lbs I think..

 

Good luck on finding all of the stuff.. I know how it is when I save things for later use.. LOL

 

Rick F.

[s.tyler58]

So if a guy wanted to put together the system to be able to suck the fork oil up into the fork, which I assume means without having to dismantle the tops of the fork, what would that guy need and where would he get it?

 

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[dna9656]

So I got the fairings and everything else off (except the anti dives and what's on top of the fork assembly I'll remove them in the AM) necessary to get the fork tubes off. Who's commin over to supervise the disassembly, overhaul and the reassembly of not only the forks but the rest of it as well tomorrow?

[camos]

So if a guy wanted to put together the system to be able to suck the fork oil up into the fork, which I assume means without having to dismantle the tops of the fork, what would that guy need and where would he get it?

 

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I don't have an answer for your question and I wonder why anyone would think spending the time to come up with such a system would be beneficial. The total amount of oil in the forks is not as important as having an equal amount in each side. Any inequality will cause each fork to operate differently under load. A small difference may not be catastrophic but it will be there and will affect handling to some degree.

 

Any time you change fork oil you should also clean any sludge out of the system or you will be contaminating the new oil which could lead to plugging up an orifice which will also affect the action of one or both forks.

 

Taking the top fork cap out is not the least bit difficult if you remember to release the top triple clamp bolt first. Putting the top cap back in does take some care to prevent cross threading and of course does require quite a bit of muscle power to overcome the pre-load.

 

Perhaps the most difficult part of doing this job is having to pump some iron every two years so you are fit enough to get the cap back on.

[s.tyler58]

I don't have an answer for your question and I wonder why anyone would think spending the time to come up with such a system would be beneficial. The total amount of oil in the forks is not as important as having an equal amount in each side. Any inequality will cause each fork to operate differently under load. A small difference may not be catastrophic but it will be there and will affect handling to some degree.

 

Any time you change fork oil you should also clean any sludge out of the system or you will be contaminating the new oil which could lead to plugging up an orifice which will also affect the action of one or both forks.

 

Taking the top fork cap out is not the least bit difficult if you remember to release the top triple clamp bolt first. Putting the top cap back in does take some care to prevent cross threading and of course does require quite a bit of muscle power to overcome the pre-load.

 

Perhaps the most difficult part of doing this job is having to pump some iron every two years so you are fit enough to get the cap back on.

Yeah that, to getting the Caps back on. But I've cut my spacers down to I think an inch and a quarter, I'll have to look for sure, but it lessened the preload enough that at 160 pounds I can still get the thread started on the caps

Okay so here's the real deal, when I was having issues with my anti Dives earlier this year and I had them apart and rebuilt and I replace the o rings and cleaned everything up, I refilled my Forks using 5 weight oil because I thought I read someone say that's what they always use. I believe that in part with dirt caused my seals to start leaking and I have been able to get one of them to stop but have cleaned 3 times on the other and it's still wants to leak. My goal is to drain the five weight and replace it with 10. I had achieved the best ride and handling with that 5 weight and 11 pounds of air pressure and barely pre-loading the progressives with the fork is fully extended. I simply want to get back to the 10 weight to see if that will help to get that left sealed to stop leaking once I clean it again. I can't believe at 60 years old that I don't have a roll of old film or picture somewhere with film stuck in it from earlier in my life but I'm going to have to just go buy a roll of film somewhere. I used a tool I cut from a milk carton which went down in between the seal in the fork just fine but seemed excessive thick compared to what film strip would be. So I want to clean that one side really good with the film strip put in 10 weight turn the key and start going somewhere. I have managed 4000 miles now in a year and a half of working on this 83 and just enough reward to know that there's no turning back now! The other night about midnight on an unimproved Road out in the country so I can see some Stars I watched it turn over 40,000 miles.

 

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[camos]

I'm going to have to just go buy a roll of film somewhere. I used a tool I cut from a milk carton which went down in between the seal in the fork just fine but seemed excessive thick compared to what film strip would be.

Good luck with finding a roll of film. You have a set of feeler gauges right? One of them should work just fine.