Oil

[ZOEYDOG]

Any suggestions on oil .Do we have to use yamalube for warranty

[BlueSky]

Any suggestions on oil .Do we have to use yamalube for warranty

 

I'm sure that you don't have to use Yamalube to maintain the warranty. On an air/oil cooled bagger, I suggest you use an oil with a good noack test.

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noack_volatility_test

 

The next link is a 2009 document of tested motorcycle oils.

 

http://www.oil-tech.com/amsoil-pdf-files/motorcycle-oil-comparison.pdf

Edited June 16, 2018 by BlueSky

[Zelthian]

I've read the warranty on my new Venture several times (both the first year and extend) and spoke to my dealership service department. Stay within the specified viscosity range in the manual and follow the service intervals and you'll be ok.

 

Beyond that, make sure you're using motorcycle oil (obviously) with the required API/JASO ratings. They'll be printed on the bottle.

 

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[ZOEYDOG]

I've read the warranty on my new Venture several times (both the first year and extend) and spoke to my dealership service department. Stay within the specified viscosity range in the manual and follow the service intervals and you'll be ok.

 

Beyond that, make sure you're using motorcycle oil (obviously) with the required API/JASO ratings. They'll be printed on the bottle.

 

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Thanks that is what I thought what oil are you using

[Zelthian]

Thanks that is what I thought what oil are you using

 

Royal Purple Max Cycle 10w-40, this time around. Next change I'm going to try Amsoil, and then probably Redline after that.

[Yoopermoose]

I think if you use Yamalube and document your scheduled maintenance, Yamalube will warrant 100k miles on the engine if you sign up for the program.

 

 

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[Zelthian]

I think if you use Yamalube and document your scheduled maintenance, Yamalube will warrant 100k miles on the engine if you sign up for the program.

 

That seems... a little dubious, legally. Do you have a link or document that describes this program?

[Yoopermoose]

That seems... a little dubious, legally. Do you have a link or document that describes this program?

 

Not dubious, it’s the Yamalube Advantage Program.

 

 

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[Zelthian]

Not dubious, it’s the Yamalube Advantage Program.

 

Found it. Very interesting, though you have to register before your first scheduled service, and use yamalube oil and filters. I am disqualified on both counts.

 

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[djh3]

I would recommend scanning or making copies of your receipts. Most are thermo paper and 6 weeks or so down the road you cant read them. Shell Rotella T6 fully synthetic oil with a JASMO rating and about $20 a gallon. My second choice is Mobil 1 T40 is the 10w40. I had use the V Twin 20w50 in the RSV also in summer when I was going to make a long distance trip. I still use the Rotella in the V-Twin Victory. No need for $12+ quart oil in my world.

[Kretz]

I would recommend scanning or making copies of your receipts. Most are thermo paper and 6 weeks or so down the road you cant read them. Shell Rotella T6 fully synthetic oil with a JASMO rating and about $20 a gallon. My second choice is Mobil 1 T40 is the 10w40. I had use the V Twin 20w50 in the RSV also in summer when I was going to make a long distance trip. I still use the Rotella in the V-Twin Victory. No need for $12+ quart oil in my world.

 

You won't get Rotella T6 for $20 a gal in Canada, here it will cost you around $40-$47 for 5 liters dependent upon your location. I'm in LM BC & I pay $47 unless it's on sale. Then they may drop it to $40.

[Rafterd]

If it were me, Mobil 1 Vtwin 20w50. You can get it almost anywhere, WalMart, Autozone,etc. Being air cooled it needs all the help it can get.

[Zelthian]

A note to everybody:

 

The discussion of "which oil should I use" is a oft-repeated rat-hole.

 

I'm surprised at how much these things become like religion: Oil, tires... I'm sure there has to be other areas of bike ownership as well (besides Harley fans, I mean).

 

What matters in oil is that it meets the guidelines laid out in the owners manual: Viscosity, API SG or better, JASO MA or better (MA2). After that, everything is religion: Brands, dino/semi-synthetic/synthetic, everything. And everyone is welcome to their religion.

 

Some religions are more expensive than others, but if you're like me and don't mind spending the money at the Alter Of Synthetic Oil^TM, then that's your business. It's my bike, and I'll spend my money as I see fit, thank you very much. Am I going to look down at someone else because they use dino oil? Certainly not.

 

....Well, if they try to use car oil, maybe I'll look down on them a little...

[BlueSky]

Or you could go with the laboratory tests of oils if you can find them. There is some difference between oils that meet the same specifications. Subjective opinions meet little.

[Zelthian]

Or you could go with the laboratory tests of oils if you can find them. There is some difference between oils that meet the same specifications.

 

Herein lies the issue. I would argue two things:

- Lab tests aren't a reliable indication of real-world usage

- The differences don't necessarily translate into better real-word protection

 

In my book, any test that would sway my opinion would need to be a long-term real-world guy-riding-the-bike test using the same exact motorcycle/engine with the different oils, and be a long-term enough to show the differences in wear (50,000 miles? 100,000 miles?). I remain skeptical of lab-only tests/demonstrations, and I typically categorize these as nifty marketing techniques (see my comments on another thread on the Royal Purple "one-armed-bandit" friction test). Without this kind of real-world, long-term test, we're back to marketing and religion. Again, this is just my view on things.

 

Subjective opinions meet little.

 

On this we can agree. Subjective observations that can be verified by others (my transmission whine was greatly reduced after changing to a different oil) can be useful, though.

[Du-Rron]

At the minimum... this is so easy... just use what the book says.

If you feel bad about that, just drain it more often or use more expensive oil to make you feel better.

 

I'm sure the more expensive oil will last longer than a cheaper oil. I'm sure that if you drain cheap oil sooner you will have the same protection as expensive oil at that particular point in time.

 

Get you a moderate oil with a price you can live with that meets book specs and change it every 3k to 4k or when the shifting gets notchy and you will be fine.

 

My big thing is Brake Fluid (DOT4) on my scoot. I MUST change out mine at least every six months or so to get the thing to shift. I attribute that to high ambient temp (was 109 Wednesday), fast driving speeds (I max out the cruise control just leaving the driveway), and a clutch slave bolted directly to the engine, that all contribute to heated clutch fluid on the long term.

 

Never had problems with Engine Oil.

[Du-Rron]

....Well, if they try to use car oil, maybe I'll look down on them a little...

 

Ok... how about a car oil filter???

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?96009-Oil-Filter-Comparisons-Hey-I-m-no-Engineer

[Zelthian]

Ok... how about a car oil filter???

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?96009-Oil-Filter-Comparisons-Hey-I-m-no-Engineer

 

I'm not sure... if it fits, and it works.....

[djh3]

Ooops I failed to realize the OP was in the land of our northern neighbors. Seems all petro chemicals are expensive up there.

[camos]

 

My big thing is Brake Fluid (DOT4) on my scoot. I MUST change out mine at least every six months or so to get the thing to shift. I attribute that to high ambient temp (was 109 Wednesday), fast driving speeds (I max out the cruise control just leaving the driveway), and a clutch slave bolted directly to the engine, that all contribute to heated clutch fluid on the long term.

 

Never had problems with Engine Oil.

You have tripped my curiosity button with your apparently integrated brakes and transmission systems. Since you don't have any problem with engine oil would that be because you only run brake fluid?

 

 

Couldn't resist.

 

 

 

Perhaps going back to OEM would solve the shifting problem.

[Du-Rron]

You have tripped my curiosity button with your apparently integrated brakes and transmission systems. Since you don't have any problem with engine oil would that be because you only run brake fluid?

 

 

Yeah... now that I look at how that is written it could look like integrated brake/trans... Good Show!!!

 

 

Screw the SVTC.... the Schwinn is riding hot today...

 

[camos]

Yeah... now that I look at how that is written it could look like integrated brake/trans... Good Show!!!

 

 

Screw the SVTC.... the Schwinn is riding hot today...

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=113259

Yikes!!! It isn't even the hot months yet. Looks like San Angelo is located close to the edge of Hell.

[kenno]

... After that, everything is religion: Brands, dino/semi-synthetic/synthetic, everything. And everyone is welcome to their religion.

...

 

You make an excellent point. In a similar vein, I was asked why was I not using Massey-Ferguson "brand" oil in my tractor, and I asked back "Precisely where is their refinery?" and that was the end of that line of questioning.

 

I used Honda oil in my Gold wings, and Honda Marine Oil in my outboard motor, Kawasaki M4 (that's mineral oil, you know) in my ZX-10R, Yamalube in my FJR1300, and BMW oil in my BMW, and funny thing, it all seemed to work out OK. The BMW Oil is rebranded Shell, pretty sure. Based on the price, I assume it is laced with unobtainium.

 

Shell Rotella in my Massey-Ferguson, at least until they get a refinery. $210 for a 5G pail, and you need 2. Yikes!

 

As far as I know, the Honda, Kawasaki, and Yamaha oil refineries are located half way between Idoubtistan and Yeahrightisburg.

 

K

[NOHAWG]

So...which oil should I use?

 

:smile5::smile5:

[videoarizona]

Hmmmmm..