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Posted

Went for a well deserved ride today. About 35 miles from home, riding through a small village at about 30 mph, when the bike just stopped running. pulled over to curb and hit the starter and it fired up. decided to turn around and head back home, made it about 200 feet and died again. Had to have it towed home. It will start after sitting for a while but only for a couple of seconds. Fuel pump is not clicking anymore, so I guess its time for a new one.

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Posted

Well that sux, but glad you easily found a place to pull over. Hopefully its the pump cause its an easy fix.

 

Good Luck, Craig

Posted

In second gen section repairs there is a write up about swapping to a Mr Gasket fuel pump. Even if you go the Facet one the directions are about the same as the pumps are very similar.

Posted
Glad it didn't strand you on the MD trip.

 

That would have sucked, the last 100 miles coming home was in heavy rain.

Posted
I believe you can rebuild the points on your pump. Then bring your old one with ya as a backup!

 

Yep, seen that post here some time ago. I will probably do that after I find a new pump.

Posted
Yep, seen that post here some time ago. I will probably do that after I find a new pump.

 

I haven't had one die on my 88 yet! But I think I may follow your thread and see the route you go for the new pump. I worry about it when I'm 500 miles away from home and as far as I understand the first gen and 2nd gen pumps are the same?

Posted

Sorry to hear this Bob. Recently got a bad tank of gas that killed my fuel pump. Mine acted up about a mile from home,

and I was able to limp home. Was not able to bring my pump back with new points. Replaced it with a new OEM pump.

 

Trike is happy again. Glad you are home. Good luck!

Posted

Not a likely issue, but make sure the vent is clear. I doubt thats it because it ran good and it was an all of a sudden thing.

Posted
I haven't had one die on my 88 yet! But I think I may follow your thread and see the route you go for the new pump. I worry about it when I'm 500 miles away from home and as far as I understand the first gen and 2nd gen pumps are the same?
This is strictly a 2nd gen issue along with the ignition switch...
Posted
Sorry to hear this Bob. Recently got a bad tank of gas that killed my fuel pump. Mine acted up about a mile from home,

and I was able to limp home. Was not able to bring my pump back with new points. Replaced it with a new OEM pump.

 

Trike is happy again. Glad you are home. Good luck!

 

OEM had to cost big$$ or did you find a used pump?

Posted

Bought new fuel pump from Partzilla for $220.00. Didn't mind because I got 8 years, 51K miles from original. Concerned about getting pump

with check to keep gas from leaking into cylinders. Some folks have blown holes in their engines by using wrong fuel pumps.

Posted
Bought new fuel pump from Partzilla for $220.00. Didn't mind because I got 8 years, 51K miles from original. Concerned about getting pump

with check to keep gas from leaking into cylinders. Some folks have blown holes in their engines by using wrong fuel pumps.

 

I guess I have never understood the whole check valve thing to prevent fuel flow from the tank to the carbs? Or is it just a terminology misuse that has me baffled. A check vale is a valve that only will allow flow in one direction and block the flow in the opposite direction. If you have a check valve that blocks flow from the tank to the carbs, then how do you get fuel flow from the tank to the carbs? I can see there being a check valve for applications where the tank is below the carb and you do not want fuel to siphon backwards draining the carbs and or the fuel lines back into the tank.

 

EDIT:

Ahh, I found my own answer, It is not the "check valve" in the pump that you need, it is the "positive shut off" feature that you need. The pump that @bongobobny called out has both valves in it. The positive shut off will close a valve in the pump when it is not running to block flow in any direction. The check valve as I theorized is only to prevent back flow and/or maintain pressure while the pump is off, and has nothing to do with preventing hydro lock when the bike is off. There are pumps with and with out check valves and with and with out positive shut off valves and with both types of valves.

 

It is just the engineer in me that has to try to understand the how and why of everything I see.

 

On the first gen this is not an issue because most of the tank is below the carbs, so it can not siphon or drain into the engine, but would benefit from a check valve to prevent the lines from draining back to the tank every time the pump shuts off. Maybe this is where the "check valve" requirement started from.

Posted
I guess I have never understood the whole check valve thing to prevent fuel flow from the tank to the carbs? Or is it just a terminology misuse that has me baffled. A check vale is a valve that only will allow flow in one direction and block the flow in the opposite direction. If you have a check valve that blocks flow from the tank to the carbs, then how do you get fuel flow from the tank to the carbs? I can see there being a check valve for applications where the tank is below the carb and you do not want fuel to siphon backwards draining the carbs and or the fuel lines back into the tank.

 

EDIT:

Ahh, I found my own answer, It is not the "check valve" in the pump that you need, it is the "positive shut off" feature that you need. The pump that @bongobobny called out has both valves in it. The positive shut off will close a valve in the pump when it is not running to block flow in any direction. The check valve as I theorized is only to prevent back flow and/or maintain pressure while the pump is off, and has nothing to do with preventing hydro lock when the bike is off. There are pumps with and with out check valves and with and with out positive shut off valves and with both types of valves.

 

It is just the engineer in me that has to try to understand the how and why of everything I see.

 

On the first gen this is not an issue because most of the tank is below the carbs, so it can not siphon or drain into the engine, but would benefit from a check valve to prevent the lines from draining back to the tank every time the pump shuts off. Maybe this is where the "check valve" requirement started from.

you are exactly right :parrots:
Posted

Bob's fuel pump recommendation may be superior and lower cost than the OEM fuel pump, but I'm perfectly happy with the OEM pump.

 

Last thing I need is engine problems.

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hole2.jpg

Posted

Ok, like I said in my other post the bike stopped running while doing 25-30 mph in town. Thought it was the fuel pump, but now I don't think so. It fired up a couple of times and would run for a few second and just stop like hitting the kill switch. If it were gas it would spit and sputter like its running out of gas. Today I bypassed the pump and would not start, not even a sputter. I made sure fuel was flowing from the tank to the carbs. I pulled one drain plug on one of the carbs and gas drained out. Also plugged the pump in and it did cycle. So its not a gas problem. Just before the first time it died on the road I swerved hard to miss a large pot hole and it died with in seconds??? Any ideas? Keep in mind its a RSV trike.

Posted

Ignition switch? Wire pinched in triple tree? Loose connection? Loose fuse? Kickstand switch? I know Hannigan leaves kickstand in place, don't know about yours.

Posted
Ignition switch? Wire pinched in triple tree? Loose connection? Loose fuse? Kickstand switch? I know Hannigan leaves kickstand in place, don't know about yours.[/quote

 

I removed the kickstand a long time ago, the ignition switch is basically new only had 3000 miles on it when I installed it before riding to MD.

Posted

I put everything back together, the pump works fine. It will fire up for about 1 second then die, just like someone hit the kill switch. Is their a safety shutoff switch on these bikes that shut off the bike when they are laid down.

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