83 clutch stack

[s.tyler58]

Well I got 3 weeks in about 1800 miles out of the old girl before the clutch decided it was done. I've searched and searched and I can't come up with the parts list I need to replace the stack and Gasket and anything else I might need before I start that job? Do any of you have that information handy?

 

Do I need the bent nose ring pliers if I'm not doing a master cylinder to do this job?

 

Also I have yet to find a way to bookmark or save post that I want to keep for later referral. Is there somewhere on this site to build my own Library?

 

I put the new heavy duty springs in this spring. Now I know it's the stack because cruising on the highway at 60, roll the throttle to full and the tach jumps to about 7.5 and then the speedometer catches up.

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[greg_in_london]

What are the bits you are after ? Clutch plates ? You should be able to get them anywhere - a quick search for Venture Royale Clutch Plates showed these up, even in the UK: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/262625010192?clk_rvr_id=1562859932148&vectorid=229508&lgeo=1&item=262625010192&rmvSB=true The other choice would be to put a washer under each spring of course, but that depends on how heavy the clutch is already.

 

If I can get the gasket in the UK from Ebay, they should have hundreds available in the USA: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Athena-Clutch-Cover-Gasket-fits-Yamaha-XVZ-1200-TD-Venture-Royale-1984-1985/141778896960?epid=1860344540&hash=item2102ae4840:m:mTQju_DPLZkFYK4VIJBs2mw

 

Am I missing something ?

[gaj1917]

Yes, lots of options. I installed a Barnett clutch kit in my '84 and am very pleased with it. These can be found on eBay - not cheap mind you (see link following). The gasket you can get from any of the online Yamaha parts sellers - I use PartShark.

 

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Barnett-Clutch-Plate-Kit-Yamaha-VMX1200-V-Max-XVZ1200-XVZ1300-/302350155121

[luvmy40]

Talk to skydoc_17

[SpencerPJ]

First off, I have seen posts over the years that Skydoc17 sells the perfect set-up. I agree with luvmy40.

 

 

I like this link to get part numbers, then scour the interweb for deals

 

https://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oemparts/#/l/yam/50042475f8700209bc787e25/1983-xvz12tk-parts

[zagger]

Well I got 3 weeks in about 1800 miles out of the old girl before the clutch decided it was done.

 

You have certainly been through struggles with that bike! If you are going to have to open up the clutch anyway, perhaps you should open it up and see what it looks like before order new clutch parts. Might be that something else in the actuating department is preventing the clutch from fully engaging and new clutch parts are not necessary. Just a thought.

zag

[Chaharly]

I'm not entirely sure that the MK1 clutches and the MK2 clutches are the same. I think they changed them to the single diaphram spring set up in 86 and used that through the production of Royal Stars as well. I agree with everyone else, I'm running the skydoc kit on my 88 and theres absolutely no slip! Just be sure it will work with yours.

 

If it wont, I do believe the barnett conversion will!

 

Good luck!

[bongobobny]

Chaharley is correct, the MK1 and MK2 clutches are different...

[Chaharly]

Do you mean it slips like a beast? or theres no pull when you pull the clutch lever?? Is it froze up?

[s.tyler58]

You have certainly been through struggles with that bike! dag

 

I've also developed a puddle below my left front Fork. Last time it was the anti dive this time looks like it's the top seal. I haven't tried to clean anything yet to see what the jack is going on there but will be addressing it while it's up on the jack.

 

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[s.tyler58]

Do you mean it slips like a beast? or theres no pull when you pull the clutch lever?? Is it froze up?

The pull is fine. It slips like a beast. I can hold highway speeds just fine. I have developed a new habit of driving around 60 miles an hour at around 36 3700 RPM instead of 32 hundred. But in 5th gear 65 miles an hour and then go full throttle. Tach jumps up, speedometer slowly starts to catch up to where the tach is.

 

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Edited June 13, 2018 by s.tyler58

[s.tyler58]

And I need to get my shifter linkage length dialed-in. Right now I believe the adjustment screw is as short as it can go and so there's a lot of slop and it's hard to get into first year by shifting down with my heel. Remember that I have a reverse shift pattern.

I've also developed a puddle below my left front Fork. Last time it was the anti dive this time looks like it's the top seal. I haven't tried to clean anything yet to see what the heck is going on there but will be addressing it while it's up on the jack.

 

So that means I'll be pulling that left side cover off where the slave is again so I can get to that adjustment. I had a drip from there over the kickstand for about a week and then once I got to ride and got going I wiped it clean and I haven't had a drip so that's weird but I'll see what it was while I have the cover off

 

I did get almost 2,000 miles in 3 weeks while she was running. Now I know why she's worth all the work. ( she'll never be worth all the money though)

 

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Edited June 13, 2018 by s.tyler58

[SpencerPJ]

I've also developed a puddle below my left front Fork. Last time it was the anti dive this time looks like it's the top seal. I haven't tried to clean anything yet to see what the jack is going on there but will be addressing it while it's up on the jack.

 

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I clean mine it seems yearly. I use an old 35mm film negative, slides in easily, and cleans out the funkies, usually bug splat. I have never replaced either side, and both sides have leaked.

[7 lakes]

I clean mine it seems yearly. I use an old 35mm film negative, slides in easily, and cleans out the funkies, usually bug splat. I have never replaced either side, and both sides have leaked.

 

Me too. I've found that most of the time leaks are crap between the seal and the tube, there isn't really a surface or enough action on those seals to wear them much, they lead a pretty easy life. If they're old and stiff that's one thing, but if they're still pliable then cleaning almost always does the trick for me. Gaiters are nice, they keep stuff off the tubes and eliminate cleaning, if you like the look.

[s.tyler58]

Me too. I've found that most of the time leaks are crap between the seal and the tube, there isn't really a surface or enough action on those seals to wear them much, they lead a pretty easy life. If they're old and stiff that's one thing, but if they're still pliable then cleaning almost always does the trick for me. Gaiters are nice, they keep stuff off the tubes and eliminate cleaning, if you like the look.

They were just redone 3 years ago less less than 3,000 miles

 

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[s.tyler58]

So, IF I can find a strip of film to use, do I just work it down in between the fork and the top of the rubber seal and and work around! I do not have a single package of printed photos to steal a negative from in my house!

 

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[RDawson]

I've used a strip cut out of a 2 liter bottle before. Seemed to help some but my seals were shot.

[Chaharly]

Did you get the clutch parts you needed figured out?

[7 lakes]

So, IF I can find a strip of film to use, do I just work it down in between the fork and the top of the rubber seal and and work around! I do not have a single package of printed photos to steal a negative from in my house!

 

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There's a bunch of videos on YouTube that show you how to do it, you can even buy a tool if you want or follow instructions on how to cut one from a milk jug or something similar. The idea is to gently work it between the seal and the tube, confirming it to the tube by holding it to it tightly, then after making a circuit or two around the tube scraping the seal clean, draw the tool up and out bringing any crud with it.

 

Find the video made by the folks who sell the tool, they do a great job of demonstrating it, then go make one from a piece of plastic and go for it. Piece of cake.

[camos]

If they're old and stiff that's one thing, but if they're still pliable then cleaning almost always does the trick for me. Gaiters are nice, they keep stuff off the tubes and eliminate cleaning, if you like the look.

I like the look of gaiters, they make the front end look more robust by hiding the skinny forks. The big benefit though is protection from dust and debris. When cleaning the seal, use a toothbrush with some dish detergent to remove any oily, dirty residue. Cut a tool out of thin flexible plastic to clean inside the seal area of the fork. Use silicon spray on the seal to soften the rubber and help lubricate the insertion of the tool. Spray silicon does a reasonable job of rehabilitating old rubber and seems to help make the seal work better.

[SpencerPJ]

So, IF I can find a strip of film to use, do I just work it down in between the fork and the top of the rubber seal and and work around! I do not have a single package of printed photos to steal a negative from in my house! Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk

 

Anything very slim and solid. Some say they have used plastic bottle, IMO that's getting a little too thick. Maybe even a screen protector for cellphone. As mentioned, Google it, there are a few youtube videos. But basically, slide it in, go around the whole fork. Here's one:

[s.tyler58]

Did you get the clutch parts you needed figured out?

Just ordered from Barnett. I still need to look up the gasket #

 

Now I'm excited to get home and see if I can get the fork seal cleaned. Those seals aren't that old and I wasn't thinking about bugs on forks once I did get this labor of love on the road.

 

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[gaj1917]

Just ordered from Barnett. I still need to look up the gasket #

 

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I know you won't be disappointed with the Barnett clutch. Might suggest new clutch springs as well if they don't come with your Barnett kit.

[s.tyler58]

I know you won't be disappointed with the Barnett clutch. Might suggest new clutch springs as well if they don't come with your Barnett kit.

Good thought! Thank you. I just put Barnett heavy duty springs in it before I got it all running this spring.

 

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[7 lakes]

I like the look of gaiters, they make the front end look more robust by hiding the skinny forks. (edit)

 

I agree.