SpencerPJ Posted June 7, 2018 #1 Posted June 7, 2018 A couple weeks ago, my 83 kickstand broke and left by bike on it's side in the driveway. Ever since, the fuel gauge has acted erratic. Never reading correct. I have searched this forum, taken the sending unit out twice, and still, no luck. The sending unit has been cleaned, the wiper works well, I get a nice change in ohms from empty to full, so I think that is ok. Do you think something came loose in the electronics on the handlebars, I think they are called the cms?
snyper316 Posted June 8, 2018 #2 Posted June 8, 2018 A couple weeks ago, my 83 kickstand broke and left by bike on it's side in the driveway. Ever since, the fuel gauge has acted erratic. Never reading correct. I have searched this forum, taken the sending unit out twice, and still, no luck. The sending unit has been cleaned, the wiper works well, I get a nice change in ohms from empty to full, so I think that is ok. Do you think something came loose in the electronics on the handlebars, I think they are called the cms? I could almost say its probably the plug that goes into the back of the CMS unit, Mine has been doing it like mad tells me my battery is bad and such and the fuel gauge will tell me I am empty when I just filled up, that plug is really Hard to get good and clean but when I feel froggy I pull it and hit with CRC and stick my plug puller in the connection then assemble it is then fine for a minute, but with our bikes being so old I am gonna have to replace the connecters in order to keep a good connection. That is My Opinion... I just dont feel like doing it, It is what it is I guess.
s.tyler58 Posted June 8, 2018 #3 Posted June 8, 2018 That is My Opinion... I just dont feel like doing it, It is what it is I guess. My solution... Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
snyper316 Posted June 8, 2018 #4 Posted June 8, 2018 My solution...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180608/6066c02cb935db09bde87c8fe49cb635.jpg Sent from my SM-G935V using TapatalkNo no no yuk Never ride faster then your angel can fly. I am as free as the wind on my face.
SpencerPJ Posted June 8, 2018 Author #5 Posted June 8, 2018 My solution... I would tape over the blinking red light, but the fuel gauge is kinda important. I know I could always refuel at 200 miles and be pretty good, just miss it being accurate. I will begin messing with connector as Snyper suggests.
Chaharly Posted June 8, 2018 #6 Posted June 8, 2018 I would tape over the blinking red light, but the fuel gauge is kinda important. I know I could always refuel at 200 miles and be pretty good, just miss it being accurate. I will begin messing with connector as Snyper suggests. 200 miles on certain days and you'll be pushing the bike! aim for 150 to be safe, though I agree... if the bike came with the fuel gauge then theres no reason not to fix it
snyper316 Posted June 8, 2018 #7 Posted June 8, 2018 (edited) 200 miles on certain days and you'll be pushing the bike! aim for 150 to be safe, though I agree... if the bike came with the fuel gauge then theres no reason not to fix itI refuel at 100-125 probably with enough to make to 150 but its up to you I don't wanna have to use AAA unless I absolutely have to. Never ride faster then your angel can fly. I am as free as the wind on my face. Edited June 8, 2018 by snyper316
s.tyler58 Posted June 8, 2018 #8 Posted June 8, 2018 I start getting twitchy at 145 milesI refuel at 100-125 probably with enough to make to 150 but its up to you I don't wanna have to use AAA unless I absolutely have to. Never ride faster then your angel can fly. I am as free as the wind on my face. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
SpencerPJ Posted June 8, 2018 Author #9 Posted June 8, 2018 so i took a stick and lightly wiggled the back of the main connector, and now the bike is running crazy. Temp gauge is acting up, motor cutting in and out. I limped it home, and after it cools off, I plan to get into the CMS area, and do better investigating. Anyone have a quick link on how best to get behind the dash?
Flyinfool Posted June 8, 2018 #10 Posted June 8, 2018 It is not real hard to get back there. Pull the headlight and the windshield and then the dash cover is right there. Pull the cover and it is all right there in front of you. you do not have to pull the fairings. The dash is held in with 4 nuts from the underside. There are 2 connectors and the speedo cable that plug into the back of it.
s.tyler58 Posted June 8, 2018 #11 Posted June 8, 2018 It is not real hard to get back there. Pull the headlight and the windshield and then the dash cover is right there. Pull the cover and it is all right there in front of you. you do not have to pull the fairings. The dash is held in with 4 nuts from the underside. There are 2 connectors and the speedo cable that plug into the back of it.Yep! Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
snyper316 Posted June 8, 2018 #12 Posted June 8, 2018 so i took a stick and lightly wiggled the back of the main connector, and now the bike is running crazy. Temp gauge is acting up, motor cutting in and out. I limped it home, and after it cools off, I plan to get into the CMS area, and do better investigating. Anyone have a quick link on how best to get behind the dash?I don't see how the cms would mess anything up as I have ran my bike totally naked down to its skeleton. Never ride faster then your angel can fly. I am as free as the wind on my face.
SpencerPJ Posted June 8, 2018 Author #13 Posted June 8, 2018 I don't see how the cms would mess anything up as I have ran my bike totally naked down to its skeleton. . I kinda feel the same way. I have not gotten into cms or back of dash, lots going on, kids in town, etc. House empty next week, I will see. All I know, I slightly wiggled the big connector, things are acting strange ever since. Here's one for you, the temp gauge changes with the rpm, like the tach is somehow bleeding into it. It sure seems that I have some loose connections or loose solder joints after the 'great fall'. It ran home missing, and acting like the fuel filter was clogged, and it's not, I have a glass one, clean and full as it should be.
Patch Posted June 9, 2018 #14 Posted June 9, 2018 Reading this and I just remembered last year I had to rebuild a dash using a mix of parts. I also had to rebuild the speedo... yah man lots of fun, I have pics of that I should post? na.
snyper316 Posted June 9, 2018 #15 Posted June 9, 2018 Reading this and I just remembered last year I had to rebuild a dash using a mix of parts. I also had to rebuild the speedo... yah man lots of fun, I have pics of that I should post? na.What wrong in dash ? Never ride faster then your angel can fly. I am as free as the wind on my face.
Patch Posted June 9, 2018 #16 Posted June 9, 2018 Well it was an 86? and nothing worked, the fellow brought me a ebay unit, and that was a mess so I had to mix and match and combine two speedoes to make one working unit... Talk about patients I'll find a pic and upload..
snyper316 Posted June 9, 2018 #17 Posted June 9, 2018 Well it was an 86? and nothing worked, the fellow brought me a ebay unit, and that was a mess so I had to mix and match and combine two speedoes to make one working unit... Talk about patients I'll find a pic and upload..Well I have 3 dashes in mine the original Speedo then the clear plastic was scratched so swapped out dashes then the cms came from different dash as mine was real light. Never ride faster then your angel can fly. I am as free as the wind on my face.
Patch Posted June 9, 2018 #18 Posted June 9, 2018 I guess on my 91 I was just lucky, I had to make a minor repair to the board and I think prairie... a remember helped me sort through it a while ago. The 86 was really rough condition!
SpencerPJ Posted June 11, 2018 Author #20 Posted June 11, 2018 So I started to tinker with my issue..s I got the bike looking like Frankenstein. I unplugged the CMS, took for ride, and the temp gauge still responded to the throttle / tach, so something not right (maybe a ground issue?). I then was at a stop light, wiggled the main positive wire fuse area, and bike died. Pushed to side of road, and it refired, and rode on. A mile down the road, I pulled over to plug cms back in. gas gauge still not accurate, reading 2 bars so maybe accurate?. Being at 150 miles, I stopped and filled up. (took 3.6 gals to fill almost to brim) THEN, stupid bike would not start, NOTHING, dead. I pushed to side of station, bam, fired up. I do not remember now if the lights were on dash when dead or not. The gas gauge now reads empty, and red light blinking (with a full tank). I drove it home, and today, I plan to start at battery connections, and go through everything electrical related, and take the dash out if need to. Rain is in the forecast all day, so we will see. Any or all ideas are welcome... I'm not super great with electrical. thanks
Freebird Posted June 11, 2018 #21 Posted June 11, 2018 Does the bike still have the original fuse panel? They are notorious for giving problems. If it hasn't been swapped, that is the first thing I would consider.
Patch Posted June 11, 2018 #22 Posted June 11, 2018 I swapped mine Like Freebird is suggesting. Can be a bit time consuming but worth the effort! I relocated mine to the radio compartment on a tail. I may of posted it on the site if you want to search. Patch
SpencerPJ Posted June 11, 2018 Author #23 Posted June 11, 2018 As Freebird suggested, I did a complete inspection and electrical check of my fusebox area, and everything seems solid. Voltage seemed correct, I wiggled everything and no changes with the meter. Although an upgrade is a good idea, it just doesn't seem to be the culprit of my problems. I completely dismantled my dash, and what I have concluded, even with everything removed and un-plugged, I plugged only the CMS in, and gas gauge still did not work correctly. Because I also have issues with the temp gauge fluctuating with the change in rpm (sometimes), I just don't see how the dash or cms are my problems. I ran several temporary ground wires thinking that it could be a glitchy ground? Can anyone point me in a direction to investigate next?
Patch Posted June 11, 2018 #24 Posted June 11, 2018 I remember having an issue with my dash I am going to look through my notes? Did you open the cluster? Did you look at the circuit board? Seems to me on mine that is where I found the problem?? Patch
Patch Posted June 11, 2018 #25 Posted June 11, 2018 Looking through the manual page 7-84 and 7-81&82 open the back of the cluster and look at the circuit board is it clean? If not give it a cleaning with brake cleaner or whatever you have. Also look for what shows in the pic below.... Its been a while but I think that was my problem?? You could also check for power G/W wire at the other end (sender) 44 ohms full tank 1/2= 160-180 empty 273 ohms
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