AGrengs Posted June 5, 2018 #1 Posted June 5, 2018 I recently replaced the rear tire on my '08 RSV. While it was off, I lubed the splines on the driveshaft, cleaned and lubed pins in rear wheel and replaced the rear end gear oil. When I get the bike warm now, I hear a noise kinda like jingling your change. I hear it under load, it doesn't seem to vary by speed or RPM. It goes quiet when coasting. I was thinking I may not have tightened the muffler clamps well and it's a slight exhaust leak, but would like to hear ideas from others as well.
Marcarl Posted June 5, 2018 #2 Posted June 5, 2018 Might be something loose, or it might depend on the grease you used in the splines and final drive. What exactly did you use? And did you put the ciriclip back on the wheel hub?
AGrengs Posted June 5, 2018 Author #3 Posted June 5, 2018 Might be something loose, or it might depend on the grease you used in the splines and final drive. What exactly did you use? And did you put the ciriclip back on the wheel hub? I used loctite moly for the grease and double-checked the reassembly at the time. Thanks for the reply.
M61A1MECH Posted June 5, 2018 #4 Posted June 5, 2018 I had a noise like that on either my Royal Star TC or the Venture, I forget which one, turned out to be that "U" shaped heat guard on the valve cover, it had fractured cleanly and very hard to see, but when riding under certain conditions it would squeak and squeal and drive me nuts.
AGrengs Posted June 5, 2018 Author #5 Posted June 5, 2018 Might be something loose, or it might depend on the grease you used in the splines and final drive. What exactly did you use? And did you put the ciriclip back on the wheel hub? I crawled under it this afternoon and found the problem (kinda embarrassing). The acorn nuts on the driveshaft tube to final gear. I lost one of them and the other three were loose enough I turned them in by hand before putting a wrench on them. Shoulda used loctite, maybe.
Flyinfool Posted June 6, 2018 #6 Posted June 6, 2018 Ouch! Glad you found that, it could have got real ugly real fast.
RSTDdog Posted June 7, 2018 #7 Posted June 7, 2018 I crawled under it this afternoon and found the problem (kinda embarrassing). The acorn nuts on the driveshaft tube to final gear. I lost one of them and the other three were loose enough I turned them in by hand before putting a wrench on them. Shoulda used loctite, maybe. If I recall correctly there is an alignment and tightening procedure for those. I don't recall it exactly. Check the service manual. I know they get tightened with the weight off the rear wheel. I think you loosen the bolts to the final drive and loosen the axle and make sure it slides in and out easily, and then tighten the final drive, then tighten the axle. Again double check the service manual. Definitely don't run around with just three of them. according to parts diagram there should be a lock washer and an acorn nut. If torqued properly with a lock washer, loctite shouldn't be necessary
cecdoo Posted June 7, 2018 #8 Posted June 7, 2018 Try to get in touch with Eck on this forum, he will talk you step by step thru alignment of rear end, and he his a great guy to shoot the bull with. Craig
vzuden Posted June 8, 2018 #9 Posted June 8, 2018 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?1705-Rear-End-Noise-Yamaha-TSB this is from our tech library regarding the correct procedure to tighten and align the rear end
AGrengs Posted June 9, 2018 Author #10 Posted June 9, 2018 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?1705-Rear-End-Noise-Yamaha-TSB this is from our tech library regarding the correct procedure to tighten and align the rear end Thanks, I pulled this apart again this afternoon. Aligned the final drive according to that there service bulletin after getting a replacement nut. Took it for a test ride and it ran real smooth and quiet. Regarding the alignment procedure, there was no way for me to get a torque wrench on those acorn nuts, there's just not clearance along the driveshaft tube. I could only get an open end wrench on them, so the torque is gestimated (but pretty darn tight).
Patch Posted June 9, 2018 #11 Posted June 9, 2018 A question for gen 2 : Do you not need to use liquid gasket at the swing and the final drive?
Flyinfool Posted June 9, 2018 #12 Posted June 9, 2018 To torque something that you can only get an open end onto you need to use a crows foot on the torque wrench. If the crows foot is at 90° to the torque wrench you will still get an accurate reading.
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