CLASS System ON while engine is running

[rrod1393]

I am new to this forum and have already got some great information from here. Recently purchased a 84 Venture Royale and spent about 2-3 weeks going over everything making it worthy for the road. Two things I want to address: 1. cruise control is not turning on (I leave this topic for another time). 2. I have noticed that I have a small leak in my CLASS system. Example: I set the rear to the medium setting (43 PSI) after about a hour of riding the psi is down in the low 30s. I know the right answer is to take everything apart, find the leak and repair it. I believe the front has an even slower leak. My idea (I haven't seen anyone post this) is to hook up the CLASS system to a switch that, once turned on, will turn on the CLASS system while the bike on. This way, I can ride for a long trip and periodically to on the switch and monitor the system. I have already installed a separate fuse panel which is controlled by a relay which is controlled by the key so there is no way to forget to turn off the system.

 

Thoughts.... concerns...

[Marcarl]

I believe that Yamaha set it up the way they did, so that the rider would not spend time looking at the controller when they should be watching the road. You should take it apart, find the leak and fix it. In the meantime you can do some preventative maintenance that will be of great value to you later on.

[rrod1393]

I do understand that. I guess I feel its the easy way out. Also I have caught myself just starting the bike and then realizing that I forget to adjust the suspension. Which means I have to turn off the engine, make the adjustments and start the engine again. Sounds dump to complain about just pushing buttons, I know. I'll probably suck it up and take a look at the system again to find a leak and take it from there. Thanks

[bongobobny]

Yes, it was designed so that you can not adjust the suspension while on the fly! It's never a good idea to change your suspension dynamics while in motion...

[Drews]

Yes, it was designed so that you can not adjust the suspension while on the fly! It's never a good idea to change your suspension dynamics while in motion...

WHY NOT BOB cowpuck does miracles with duct tape zip ties & bailing wire & lots of stickers

[Patch]

Post #3 reflects the problem!

 

You have received the best information on #2 & #4

 

You chose a complicated optioned ride, you should learn the systems or, you may not be content with it, long run.

 

Why do long time members pay attention to "newbies" they have experience to pass forward that's it.

 

You can bring your laptop to the garage and have one of the above mentioned and others guiding you through the steps.... NO Egos here:) isn't that why we ride metric and not those banger's lol

 

You'll get through it

 

PS. Carl you haven't aged a bit;)

 

Patch

[rrod1393]

I will take apart the solenoids in the back and give them a good cleaning.

[Patch]

Remember working on a pressurized system you need to bleed the air 2nd.

 

I think if I understand your post it's just the rear leaking???

 

I would pressure up the rear after giving the area a quick pressure wash around the swing arm..

 

With the pressure up look for leaks with very soapy water. If you find anything at all BLEED THE PRESSURE before adjusting!

 

If not move up checking and spraying along to the relay control under the seat.

 

There a couple of O-rings at the tube ends, if memory serves?

 

Likely a good time to grease the swing and check the side stand bolt as well.

 

And bring a dish rag you're still a trial member;)

[rrod1393]

Remember working on a pressurized system you need to bleed the air 2nd.

 

I think if I understand your post it's just the rear leaking???

 

I would pressure up the rear after giving the area a quick pressure wash around the swing arm..

 

With the pressure up look for leaks with very soapy water. If you find anything at all BLEED THE PRESSURE before adjusting!

 

If not move up checking and spraying along to the relay control under the seat.

 

There a couple of O-rings at the tube ends, if memory serves?

 

Likely a good time to grease the swing and check the side stand bolt as well.

 

And bring a dish rag you're still a trial member;)

 

I'm asking this without having looked for myself, can I see where the air line connects to the rear mono shock without taking the bike apart (other than body panels)?

[Marcarl]

I'm asking this without having looked for myself, can I see where the air line connects to the rear mono shock without taking the bike apart (other than body panels)?

 

Yep, just have to remove the side cover.

[Patch]

You know Bongo and Carl know the bike details better than I so I'm sure they'll step up if I get it mixed up.

 

The seat has to be removed to access the module and there should be a black cover in line with the trunk on the fender.

The rear line runs down the front of the rear fender attached to the frame and should hook into the top of the can.

Cleaning it well is the best start, it can get pretty ugly down there.

The can is actually rubber suspension bag, sometimes they develop a leak and can be swapped out.

Any way use a couple of jack stands because likely you will have your head under as well as from above spraying the area with soapy water, and maybe a flash light will help. Work your way back to the module.

 

If you open a line at both ends blow them out.

 

Patch

[bongobobny]

Thanks for the compliment!!

 

The black cover for the compressor module is directly under the trunk mounting rack, so the trunk and the mounting rack both have to be removed to access the unit. The seat does not have to be removed just to get to the unit, but it is a good idea to do so to gain access to the connecting plug, etc. Myself I would suspect the leak is either a loose hose or a bad o ring on the end of the hose. The hose itself could be bad and if it is then good luck finding a replacement, you will probably end up using another used one or having one specially made up. Yes, the solenoid could possibly cause a leak as well. Talk to Carl as he has actually serviced the solenoids by disassembling them!

[Patch]

Yes I remember now about the trunk I lifted it and budgied it to the rack in a campsite of all places the 1st time.

 

Having said that, I do know that once you get the system properly sorted, and there are issues, usually good to go and I enjoyed the adjustability of it!

 

Not to mention getting it up on the center stand helps to max it out..

 

Thanks for steering Bongo

 

Patch

[Patch]

Here's a copy from my manual. Looks like I mixed my bikes up again, this is a hard shell shock.

[Marcarl]

My guess is that there has been moisture getting into the solenoids. The body of the solenoids is aluminum and so are the seats, and water will corrode the seats. Not a hard thing to do, is to disassemble the solenoids and to clean them. The hardest part is to keep all the screws and springs close to your work area so that you don't loose them. If you find a seat that is not perfectly smooth, you have found a problem. First clean it as best as possible using brake clean and lots of air. The get some fine steel wool, wrap it around the blunt end of a drill bit and tape the end onto the bit. Now insert the sharp end into the drill and you have made yourself a homemade hone. Carefully clean the seat with the described tool. Then more brake clean and air. In your process of refurbishing go whole hog and pull everything apart for cleaning, even the diaphragm on the exhaust tube, and the desiccant in the moisture filter. The desiccant can be rejuvenated by putting it in the microwave for a few minutes. It should be pink in color.

Anything else, just ask.

[rrod1393]

All great! Thanks for the tips. I have a bunch of projects to do on the bike still and finding more as I found a coolant leak at the bypass valve and a clutch fluid leak at the slave cylinder. Thanks again.

[Patch]

If I may make a couple of suggestions to you

 

The coolant leak to me- I would if you haven't do a long soak flush. May as well deal with all those now. Likely when you inspect the leak you'll find some corrosion, well there will be more hidden. After rinsing I would add 2/3 a can of Bar's Leak with pump lubricant, which must be added to through the rad not the overflow!

 

Then I would based again on experience go through every plug connect you can find and there are many; clean and grease each connections. You'll find some that won't pull apart, don't risk breaking those soak them with a penetrant oil! Every so often when you can measure resistance either to the frame or end to end. It will give you an idea of harness condition!

 

The slave will likely require a good cleaning in a bowl and check for pitting, if I recall there are o-rings you can replace just mention to the "o-ring" shop that they sit in hydraulic fluid so they offer up the right compound off their shelves. If I haven't mixed up my bikes slaves?

 

Patch

[rrod1393]

If I may make a couple of suggestions to you

 

The coolant leak to me- I would if you haven't do a long soak flush. May as well deal with all those now. Likely when you inspect the leak you'll find some corrosion, well there will be more hidden. After rinsing I would add 2/3 a can of Bar's Leak with pump lubricant, which must be added to through the rad not the overflow!

 

Then I would based again on experience go through every plug connect you can find and there are many; clean and grease each connections. You'll find some that won't pull apart, don't risk breaking those soak them with a penetrant oil! Every so often when you can measure resistance either to the frame or end to end. It will give you an idea of harness condition!

 

The slave will likely require a good cleaning in a bowl and check for pitting, if I recall there are o-rings you can replace just mention to the "o-ring" shop that they sit in hydraulic fluid so they offer up the right compound off their shelves. If I haven't mixed up my bikes slaves?

 

Patch

 

Just so I understand what you're recommending... I should do a flush of the coolant system with water? to find addition leaks that might pop up. I did just change the coolant and I had to turn the bypass valve which is probably why its leaking (broke the seal of corrosion). With the new coolant in, all I found was a very slow leak coming from the bypass. Since the coolant has to come out anyway to replace the o-ring in the valve I will flush out with water. You are recommending to pull apart every coolant connection in the system and clean? When I pulled the old fluid, I ran the engine for a couple of minutes and then dumped it. Coolant was fairly clean like it was recently changed. Also the bike has no issues overheating but I understand preventative maintenance. I am just worried of fixing something that is not broken... and then really have to fix it because I broke it! ha

 

Now the "Bar's Leak" goes in with the new coolant?

[Patch]

No.

 

If this is a new to you bike, I recommend that you flush the coolant system, with a radiator flush. Then rinse with fresh water or as recommend on the label.

It does happen that old bikes will spring leaks, so its better to do the above, then add a leak preventer and lube to the system after flush and rinse if required!

 

Note there are drain plugs in the heads, refer to your manual.

 

Regarding the plugs, I wasn't very clear actually mixed a couple of threads up. The wiring harness has many plug connections, which can cause as many problems. So I am suggesting that you get a jump on it by opening the connections cleaning then.... as mentioned

 

Patch

[RDawson]

Take the screw out of the bypass, the plug should pull out to replace the o ring. Be ready for the detent ball and spring to try to fly away. I wrap a rag around it as I pull it out to catch them. I personally shy away from any kind of stop leak in a bottle, it can stop up radiators. Some have had good luck and like them, me not so much.

[Patch]

Take the screw out of the bypass, the plug should pull out to replace the o ring. Be ready for the detent ball and spring to try to fly away. I wrap a rag around it as I pull it out to catch them. I personally shy away from any kind of stop leak in a bottle, it can stop up radiators. Some have had good luck and like them, me not so much.

 

That is incorrect, the product is made to work throughout the system!

 

This was a standard process for aluminum engines, designed to plug minor leaks only!

 

Patch

[RDawson]

That is incorrect, the product is made to work throughout the system!

 

This was a standard process for aluminum engines, designed to plug minor leaks only!

 

Patch

I recently helped a friend replace a radiator and heater core on a 40k mile car. He was on the road when radiator started leaking and he used a fix in a bottle just to get home. Stopped both up within 300 miles. I don't know what brand he used but I will buy parts before I use any of them.

[Patch]

I get your point and I don't want to turn the thread around.

 

These bikes are old, the coolant was obviously left to long and therefore some corrosion is visible. What isn't visible is or should be the concern!

 

Another point and we have seen this here some time ago; these bikes are designed for the long hauls, way out there, and the Bar's I mentioned is preventative as much as potentially plugging a minor something after the corrosion is dissolved!!

 

Have a safe season

Patch