Let's check tires

[RDawson]

This should go without saying but CHECK YOUR PRESSURES. I was getting ready to leave the firehouse this morning when my relief officer showed up on his HD bagger. I noticed his front tire had some flex in it and asked him about it. It's the first time he's had it out this year. We had a pencil gauge in the station that didn't move on the front tire and showed 10 on the rear. He said it rode fine on the way in. So just a reminder check your bikes regularly and keep em upright. I've picked up way too many riders over the years and had to zip a bag over a few, never fun, STAY SAFE.

You 3rd genners stick a gauge on it sometimes too, I've had a TPMS lie to me before on a car.

[Zelthian]

You 3rd genners stick a gauge on it sometimes too, I've had a TPMS lie to me before on a car.

 

I just had this conversation with my dealership service department yesterday. Their take: ALL TPM sensors are inaccurate. My service manager's comment was that they are there to warn you when the tires are starting to get low, NOT to give an accurate read on the pressure. I always makes sure my tires are at 41/41 F/R when I start a weekend ride, and once the TPMS shows a reading, their showing something like 38/39.

[cowpuc]

This should go without saying but CHECK YOUR PRESSURES. I was getting ready to leave the firehouse this morning when my relief officer showed up on his HD bagger. I noticed his front tire had some flex in it and asked him about it. It's the first time he's had it out this year. We had a pencil gauge in the station that didn't move on the front tire and showed 10 on the rear. He said it rode fine on the way in. So just a reminder check your bikes regularly and keep em upright. I've picked up way too many riders over the years and had to zip a bag over a few, never fun, STAY SAFE.

You 3rd genners stick a gauge on it sometimes too, I've had a TPMS lie to me before on a car.

 

:sign yeah that::sign Rock On::sign Rock On::sign Rock On::sign Rock On:

 

IMHO, this is serious stuff,,, the life you save may be your own or someone you love... DO IT and DO IT frequently!!

[saddlebum]

Since we are on the subject of tires at what point would side wall weather checking be considered risky. I am showing some very fine surface weathering on my tires but not even close to penetrating to the cord, looks more like fine cat scratches. Were it a car I would not hesitate to continue running them but I am kinda sitting on the fence with regards to getting at least one more season out of them specially since they still have plenty of tread.

 

Kinda sucks cuss last time I replaced them even though I had lots of tread because the rubber got too hard and I was loosing grip on the road surface. and now again I seem to be having to consider replacing tires that still have plenty of tread.

[Sylvester]

Since we are on the subject of tires at what point would side wall weather checking be considered risky. I am showing some very fine surface weathering on my tires but not even close to penetrating to the cord, looks more like fine cat scratches. Were it a car I would not hesitate to continue running them but I am kinda sitting on the fence with regards to getting at least one more season out of them specially since they still have plenty of tread.

 

Kinda sucks cuss last time I replaced them even though I had lots of tread because the rubber got too hard and I was loosing grip on the road surface. and now again I seem to be having to consider replacing tires that still have plenty of tread.

 

Replace them and then ride more.

 

[BlueSky]

Yeah, I would replace cracked tires.

 

The original tires that came on my 85ZN700 were not cracked when I bought the bike in 2009 with 1k miles on it. I kept the tires thinking I might put them on ebay. Somebody who wants a collector bike with OE tires may want them. I put about 300 miles on them before replacing them. They look like new except for just a tiny bit of wear. This bike was stored in WI so maybe the cold weather helped preserve them.

[cowpuc]

Since we are on the subject of tires at what point would side wall weather checking be considered risky. I am showing some very fine surface weathering on my tires but not even close to penetrating to the cord, looks more like fine cat scratches. Were it a car I would not hesitate to continue running them but I am kinda sitting on the fence with regards to getting at least one more season out of them specially since they still have plenty of tread.

 

Kinda sucks cuss last time I replaced them even though I had lots of tread because the rubber got too hard and I was loosing grip on the road surface. and now again I seem to be having to consider replacing tires that still have plenty of tread.

 

Not worth even a second look IMHO brother = your to valuble to us!! I just spooned on another set of Shinks on Tweeksis - thinking they were 115 bucks shipped to my door.. I am sure you have experienced riding down a flat on a touring bike as I have but I can tell you, out of the several times that it has happened = none of them were that much fun PLUS,, there actual instances where folks ran out of space during that mysterious dog tracking time that all bikes with flat tires roll thru when ya get down below 25 mph and they ended up badly injured from high siding or,,,, even worse... Not worth it Ben,,,, spoon on a new set and ride er till the cows come home!!

[saddlebum]

So I checked with my favorite tire source today to get a new set of E3's only to find out that Dunlop has discontinued the E3 for the rear and will be phasing out the fronts eventually as well. They suggested that it is fine to run the E3 on the front and the new E4 on the rear. Anyone do this and how do you feel about the E4

Edited May 29, 2018 by saddlebum

[grubsie]

So I checked with my favorite tire source today to get a new set of E3's only to find out that Dunlap has discontinued the E3 for the rear and will be phasing out the fronts eventually as well. They suggested that it is fine to run the E3 on the front and the new E4 on the rear. Anyone do this and how do you feel about the E4

 

 

Not to rain on your parade, but Dennis Kirk has Avon Cobras at one heck of a price right now. I like them so much that their the only tires I will put on any of my bikes any more. Just bought a set for my RSV as I will be needing new tires in a little over a month.

 

 

Also, out of curiosity, what gauge are most everybody using to check their tire pressure? I use this one. I check the tires before riding whatever bike I take out and also carry it on whatever bike I am riding if I am taking a long ride like over the weekend. Seems to be very accurate.

https://www.autozone.com/tire-repair-and-tire-wheel/tire-gauge/slime-0-100-psi-ultimate-digital-gauge/9581_0_0

[saddlebum]

Not to rain on your parade, but Dennis Kirk has Avon Cobras at one heck of a price right now. I like them so much that their the only tires I will put on any of my bikes any more. Just bought a set for my RSV as I will be needing new tires in a little over a month.

I tried the Avon's on my 1st gen and my bike developed one heck of a tail wag at highway speeds and adjusting air pressure did nothing to get rid of it.Went back to the dealer and he replaced them with E3,s and the bike handled like a charm. this would have been my third set going on but they are discontinuing the E3 replacing with the E4

[7 lakes]

Since we are on the subject of tires at what point would side wall weather checking be considered risky. I am showing some very fine surface weathering on my tires but not even close to penetrating to the cord, looks more like fine cat scratches. Were it a car I would not hesitate to continue running them but I am kinda sitting on the fence with regards to getting at least one more season out of them specially since they still have plenty of tread.

 

Kinda sucks cuss last time I replaced them even though I had lots of tread because the rubber got too hard and I was loosing grip on the road surface. and now again I seem to be having to consider replacing tires that still have plenty of tread.

 

Have you checked the date code? I won't run a tire that's more than five years old no matter how much tread it has, and I've seen 3 year old tires with a lot of sun exposure that were ready to be replaced. They just get too stiff and hard and slippery.

[saddlebum]

Have you checked the date code? I won't run a tire that's more than five years old no matter how much tread it has, and I've seen 3 year old tires with a lot of sun exposure that were ready to be replaced. They just get too stiff and hard and slippery.

Yup always check the date codes but since my bike sits out the tires do get a lot of sun exposure specially were I park at work.

[s.tyler58]

I haven't heard anyone comment on that tire gauge but that looks like it would really be much easier than what I'm doing. You should go ahead and put a review on the AutoZone site.

 

I like that price range and unless someone has a better idea and just hasn't spoken up yet I'm open to suggestions.

 

I've got a question about tires.

 

I'm running Shinko tour Masters.

 

32 pounds front tire, 35 to 39 generally in the rear.

 

I ride one up at about 170 lb. A small cooler and Necessities in the rear trunk in a few like rain gear stuff in the bags.

 

Out on the road, no hands at 60 or up to 95 for miles if I wanted to.

 

But lately, and usually at least half an hour into a ride, when I'm riding through the small towns from 65 miles per hour and then downtown cruising through town at maybe 25-30 miles per hour it's like trying to ride on the edge of a razor blade, or someone trying to cross a high wire. It seems like it's almost impossible to hold a straight line, straight up at lower speed.

 

I've had the bike up on the center stand and lash the center stand so it wouldn't collapse and lifted the front of the engine with a floor jack and I can't shake anything in the triple horn. I've done some breaking and pulling and pushing with the front brake locked up and can't get any play whatsoever. It turns very simply there's no binding there's no warn feeling to anything there hey hey hey hey hey hey hey ( I'm going to leave the previous sentence to show you what happens when you're dictating and your little dog runs off to see the mailman.)

 

I guess so that you have all the information, a lot of this riding has been taking place with temperatures of 93 to 95 degrees and above.

 

So my question is could this just be me as an old man that gets tired or is it a hot pavement hot Tire circumstance?

 

Crap I also have the rear shock set on the number 2 with 28 lb in it. I'm running no air in my Progressive Springs.

 

And also at high speeds I find myself wobbling just like not as straight as it seems should be possible. Imagine your swimming motion we always talk about only it takes a quarter mile to finish the motion. just a gentle back and forth back and forth it's not like your head moves but your wheels are moving back and forth from the waste down, like they don't want to stay within 3 inches either side of center. Let's call it a very extended bike wobble not body lean.

 

Could it be the balance?

 

 

 

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Edited May 29, 2018 by s.tyler58

[slowrollwv]

When you get that figured out, Let me know. I have the same thing going on with my bike, but mine does the light wobble at highway speed. I just thought it was me as I have a slight balance problem from a ruptured ear drum.

[camos]

32 pounds front tire, 35 to 39 generally in the rear.

I think your front pressure is too low. When pressures get too low the front starts to feel squidgley. I run 40 and 40 although I think the manual suggests 38 for the front.

[grubsie]

I think your front pressure is too low. When pressures get too low the front starts to feel squidgley. I run 40 and 40 although I think the manual suggests 38 for the front.

 

I agree. It's better to have a little more air than not enough air.

 

When you get that figured out, Let me know. I have the same thing going on with my bike, but mine does the light wobble at highway speed. I just thought it was me as I have a slight balance problem from a ruptured ear drum.

 

Double check air pressure first, then move on to the neck bearings if the air doesn't work. They may need to be tightened up a bit and /or regreased and re-torqued. You can check by doing a flop test which requires you to lift the bike with a stand. Loose neck bearings can cause all kind of handling problems.

 

 

Edited May 29, 2018 by grubsie

[slowrollwv]

I agree. It's better to have a little more air than not enough air.

 

 

 

Double check air pressure first, then move on to the neck bearings if the air doesn't work. They may need to be tightened up a bit and /or regreased and re-torqued. You can check by doing a flop test which requires you to lift the bike with a stand. Loose neck bearings can cause all kind of handling problems.

 

 

[/quote

 

 

I did all of that when I did the front springs. Also I do not go by the manual for tire pressure. I try to stay just below the tire max PSI. I do run the 130 E3 on the front.

[s.tyler58]

I went from 29 tob32 lbs. in the front and 40 fromn35 in the rear. Did the flop test and he/she passed perfectly.

 

These seemingly minor adjustments did help to straighten out the Elongated Body wobble. Rode 150 miles and noticeably better. Wasn't nearly as hot out yesterday though.

 

Have I mentioned that she might be he? Guess that's why I'm having such a hard time coming up with a name

 

 

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Edited June 1, 2018 by s.tyler58

[grubsie]

I went from 29 tob32 lbs. in the front and 40 fromn35 in the rear. Did the flop test and he/she passed perfectly.

 

These seemingly minor adjustments did help to straighten out the Elongated Body wobble. Rode 150 miles and noticeably better. Wasn't nearly as hot out yesterday though.

 

Have I mentioned that she might be he? Guess that's why I'm having such a hard time coming up with a name

 

 

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Don't know what brand tires you are running and too lazy to read back in the thread if you stated but I wouldn't go below 36 lbs on a front tire. Just won't on a big bike.

[camos]

I went from 29 tob32 lbs. in the front and 40 fromn35 in the rear. Did the flop test and he/she passed perfectly.

 

These seemingly minor adjustments did help to straighten out the Elongated Body wobble. Rode 150 miles and noticeably better.

Still too low. I personally like 40 better but keep the front at a minimum of 36.

[s.tyler58]

Don't know what brand tires you are running and too lazy to read back in the thread if you stated but I wouldn't go below 36 lbs on a front tire. Just won't on a big bike.

Shinko tour masters

 

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[saddlebum]

Shinko tour masters

 

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I seem to remember somewhere on the shinko site that they said to run their tires at the max pressure stated on the side wall Which I believe is around 41 PSI and not to go by the OEM spec. Their reasoning is that the OEM spec was based on older different type tire designs common at the time. They state that the new tires are designed to run at the stated PSI on the side wall.

 

BTW I did finally break down and get new tires and Dunlop now has replaced the front E3 with the E4 so I now have a new set of Elite E4's on the old girl.

[s.tyler58]

I set front and rear at 40. Seems to help but now my clutch is slipping so I'm going to have to replace a stack I guess

 

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[snyper316]

Okay dumb question here today I was out riding tinker and I got up to about a hundred and five and front somewhere something was like vibrating I think was a front tire but when I get to like a hundred fifteen it kind of Smooths out what would cause that?

 

Never ride faster then your angel can fly. I am as free as the wind on my face.

[bongobobny]

My first guess would be improper neck bearing torque but oscillation from that happens at lower speeds too! The symptoms can occur at any speed and have a range of 10 - 20 mph where it will occur.