Progressive Spring install ?

[Cougar]

I can not seem to find the (how to install progressive springs) on the 2nd Gen....

Can this be done with-out removing the inner fairing ?

Or can anybody guide me to the procedure ?

Oh, and is the number for them 11-1144 ?

Thanks for any help.

Jeff

[CaseyJ955]

I can not seem to find the (how to install progressive springs) on the 2nd Gen....

Can this be done with-out removing the inner fairing ?

Or can anybody guide me to the procedure ?

Oh, and is the number for them 11-1144 ?

Thanks for any help.

Jeff

 

Hey Jeff, I have done the Gen1 one and my VMX but not a Gen2, so grain of Na here. If all your doing is installing the springs you should be able to lift the old ones right out and slip the new ones in through the top without tearing big chunks off the bike (on center stand with no weight on the front wheel, dont ask me how I know that). Progressives often contain a spacer or PCV sleeve that you cut to suit your preload requirements, there is usually an inlay in the box explaining (sort of) model specific spacers.

 

If your taking this opportunity to replace your seals and bushings then there is more to it but still not that bad. There is a tech library here somewhere or a thread in which Freebird (IIRC) did his Gen2, with pics and explanations. I cant find that link but I know it's here, along with the service manual. Regardless of how your doing it you will need to adjust oil levels as the Progressives are slightly beefier than OEM and will displace more fluid as you slide them back into the tubes, you will need to compensate by adjusting fluid level. The coolest part about all this is how much better the bike will ride and handle when your done. On a side note, my Gen1 felt a little bouncy for the first few days until the new springs settled in.

[Cougar]

Thanks Casey ,

 

This is on my Trike, 2000 2nd Gen. and I think I will put it on the lift , then

Start tearing it apart LOL , I am tired of the bottoming out feel

when riding and breaking.

 

Thanks much for the tips. maybe more

will chime in later.

Jeff

[Freebird]

I thought there was a tech article on installing the Sonic Springs but I don't see it. I've installed them and several others have also but I guess nobody took pictures. I really recommend the Sonic Springs instead of the Progressives on the RSV. I can tell you that it requires either completely removing the fairing or at least unbolting it from the frame and securing it away from the forks.

[Cougar]

http://sonicsprings.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=27_117&osCsid=590402cfe774948ebddea67ac591c25f

 

OK, so there is the

 

1.00/KG/MM

1.10/KG/MM

1.20/KG/MM

 

What ones did you use ?

Why are they better ?

Thanks!

[Cougar]

up in the air now , front fairing removed but the part of remove whatever bolts for the rear fairing

is the problem. guess I will have to figure it out on my own. :-) and I promise not to take any pictures LOL

[Freebird]

I'm pretty sure it was the 120s. That was the problem with Progressive, they only had the lighter springs that were actually designed for the Royal Star. With the RSVs heavier front and etc., it needs the heavier springs. Rick Butler can tell you for sure if you want to send him a PM.

 

From what I remember, there are four bolts that hold the inner fairing on. They in on the four corners of the steel tubing square behind the radio area.

[Cougar]

Do you think I have to go any farther then this ?

[Cougar]

If good ,I will now remove the other messes, and the bars, think I will put in a new bearing as well.

maybe hang the bars from the garage ceiling .

[Cougar]

Then when the other mess is out of the way do I put a wrench on these and turn un-screw them ?

 

[Cougar]

RED NECK WAY ? enough room now ?

[Freebird]

First time I did one, I did it about the same way. Hung the fairing and etc. from a hook in the ceiling. Once the top is off that triple tree, the air caps should screw off.

[Cougar]

Sweet , Just removed one of the springs :-)

I am in this far , how hard is taking off that tree top and replacing the bearing or re-packing it ?

Any tricks?

 

[Cougar]

If I remove that top will the shocks stay in place ? I still have the wheel on.

[Freebird]

It's easy enough for the top bearing but for the bottom one, you will have to completely remove the triple tree. That means removing the front tire also. And no, if you remove the top of the triple tree, it will likely slip down until the tire stops it.

[Cougar]

Thank You

[Freebird]

Actually, just removing the top shouldn't cause it to drop down, there are two nuts underneath that have to be removed first. Here is a thread that shows them.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?511-Tightening-the-Steering-Head

[bongobobny]

Hey Cougar, long time!!

 

Have you tried jacking up the front of your trike with a hydraulic jack?? Jack up either side on the floorboard mounting brackets and you will find you can lift the whole front off of the ground as far as the jack will let you!! I can get the front tire on mine a good foot or two off the ground on mine! Just make sure you chock the rear wheels. Take the front tire off and you have plenty of room to pull the forks right off!

 

If you are replacing your triple tree bearings make sure you replace the races as well, as they will be worn in by the old bearings and if you don't replace them the new ones will wear faster...

[Cougar]

Hey Old Boy. Hope all is well with you !

 

Yes, that is a great jacking point on both side.

However I have it on my MAXJAX right now. now that rocks. LOL

 

So far have have the springs out, and the top tree off, waiting on

a new bearing tomorrow and the race it goes into, and some

other parts.

 

Gunna try and drop the shaft down so I can at lest pack in some grease on the bottom bearing

for now I guess, not sure I wanna mess with changing out the lower yet.

 

Just trying to figure out the best way to screw that darn caps back on when I put the new

springs and oil in :-) that otta be fun.

 

Oh and I am not pulling the forks all the way off as well.

 

Anyways, nice to hear from you. I guess nobody loves me anymore, only 2 folks that I know

have posted back to me in this thread.

 

guess I did something to piss folks off ? I dunno.

oh well.....

Jeff

[bongobobny]

Nah, the site is just changing is all, I doubt you pi$$ed anybody off!

 

With our Hannigans, the torque on the head bearing is a lot more than stock. I'm sure if you give them a call they can provide you with their spec...

[Cougar]

( EDIT) ---- 27 foot lbs for the bottom star bolt and snug the top one, from what Hannigan says .

Edited June 2, 2018 by Cougar

[Cougar]

OK gang, got the bearing out, but how the heck are you

removing the RACE ? .... HEAT ??

[bongobobny]

Sometimes you can hammer them out from the other side, other times you have to put a cut through them so they can contract, and once in a great while you have to make two cuts to take out a small section. I use a Dremel tool with a metal cutting disc when I have to cut, otherwise an old screwdriver and a hammer for pounding out from the center. Don't worry about putting a score or slight groove in the neck when making cuts, they have zero impact on the new race...

 

I think once in my life I saw a specialized tool that had 3 adjustable L teeth and a slide hammer arrangement but I wouldn't have a clue where to find such a tool!

[Cougar]

Thanks much, yup, At my wits end, GUUNA CUT —- LOL

[RedRider]

Yup, Dremel with a cutting wheel got the race out of mine. Good luck.

 

And.....Go ahead and take the forks off and change the fluid while you are in there. Unfortunately, the 2nd gen Ventures don't have a drain on the folks.

 

RR