help Progressive springs

[funrider]

I am in the proses of putting in new springs. when you put the new progressive springs in, what do you leave out? Below the cap bolt is a cap with a o ring on it, does that get left out? If you put that in, it is already higher than what is recommended without using a spacer at all. Any help will be appreciated.

[mbrood]

Everything is the same as disassembly except you pull the 3 inch steel "tube" from the top of the original setup and replace the 3 inch tube with 1/2 inch PVC spacer provided from Progressive with the springs..

 

Here's a comparison on mine.. stock to progressive. Being a real lightweight, I opted to leave out the spacer and I STILL had about 3/4 inch of preload on mine which was still tough to get the cap screw compressed and started. (Did I mention I might need sand in my pockets for that job?)

 

http://bergall.org/temp/venture/springs3.jpg

 

And there's a better writeup in the 1st Gen tech section...

[Dexx]

You're kidding, right? My dad and I together couldn't get the caps close enough to start with those aluminum o-ringed pieces in and couldn't find any further info on the subject at the time. i've put about 20 miles on it since the swap and it rides beautifully. Will leaving them out cause any future problems? The only other thing we could think of was to use them INSTEAD of the pvc spacers. I don't want to take the things apart again, but will if the consensus is to do something different than what we did. Also, the pvc pieces that came with my kit were closer to 3/4 inch and we opted not to cut them.

[Condor]

You're kidding, right? My dad and I together couldn't get the caps close enough to start with those aluminum o-ringed pieces in and couldn't find any further info on the subject at the time. i've put about 20 miles on it since the swap and it rides beautifully. Will leaving them out cause any future problems? The only other thing we could think of was to use them INSTEAD of the pvc spacers. I don't want to take the things apart again, but will if the consensus is to do something different than what we did. Also, the pvc pieces that came with my kit were closer to 3/4 inch and we opted not to cut them.

 

It's been a couple of years since I installed a set of Progressives, but the metal spacer tubes are replaced by the PVC preload spacers. There are washer/cups in the ends of the metal tubes that will fit in the ends of the PVC spacers. Use them. Otherwise you'll chew up the ends of the plastic spacers. I'm not sure what you're refering to when talking about the 'O' ringed pieces, and leaving them out?? The only 'O' ringed part I know of is the aluminum cap, and you need it to seal the forks. They're a ***** to get back on but the forks won't work without them.

[GeorgeS]

On my 89, I left the Plastic Spacer " Out " I did put in a Larger Thick Washer, on top of the Spring before installing the Caps.

 

I used 15 Wgt. Oil. I ride Single. I use NO Air pressure, and the front end seems perfect to me.

[Dexx]

It's been a couple of years since I installed a set of Progressives, but the metal spacer tubes are replaced by the PVC preload spacers. There are washer/cups in the ends of the metal tubes that will fit in the ends of the PVC spacers. Use them. Otherwise you'll chew up the ends of the plastic spacers. I'm not sure what you're refering to when talking about the 'O' ringed pieces, and leaving them out?? The only 'O' ringed part I know of is the aluminum cap, and you need it to seal the forks. They're a ***** to get back on but the forks won't work without them.

 

Look at the pic in mbrood's post. the original set up is the spring at the bottom of the pic. From left to right is the fork cap, "the aluminum o-ringed piece" i am trying to refer to and the factory spacer. The piece after the fork cap is hollow on the inside, but I couldn't get the pvc to fit into it. The washer /cups (shoulder washers?) that I think you are talking about are OEM and the "shoulder" fits in the end of the pvc nicely, so we used those between the pvc and the top of the spring. The fork cap is smooth on the bottom and shouldn't really affect the pvc piece, should it? Still, I'm just mostly confused by that piece second from the left in the picture.

[Condor]

Look at the pic in mbrood's post. the original set up is the spring at the bottom of the pic. From left to right is the fork cap, "the aluminum o-ringed piece" i am trying to refer to and the factory spacer. The piece after the fork cap is hollow on the inside, but I couldn't get the pvc to fit into it. The washer /cups (shoulder washers?) that I think you are talking about are OEM and the "shoulder" fits in the end of the pvc nicely, so we used those between the pvc and the top of the spring. The fork cap is smooth on the bottom and shouldn't really affect the pvc piece, should it? Still, I'm just mostly confused by that piece second from the left in the picture.

 

Yeah, my bad. Forgot about that one. It's an old age thing... Just the same, the 'O' ring is there for a reason, and that piece is part of the preload. Probably more as an air pressure seal. I'm a big guy, and even I couldn't get the threads to bite with the intire PVC. I finally cut the PVC in half, and was able to get the cap started, but still not without some effort. I had to lean on a 18" rachet extension with a 17mm hex socket (made it special) using short bursts before it caught. If you're running without the seal and a long PVC you probably accomplished the same thing as cutting the pipe in half. And if the forks hold air for you, then you're good to go.

[mbrood]

Condor, thanks for your affirmation. I put the progressives in, the shoulder washer, a 1/2" piece of PVC then I had the interrnal aluminum cup (with O-ring) to add and the final nut... I stood up on the bike and leaned in with all of my 120 pounds and I could hear the spring snickering at me ("It ain't gonna happen..."). With the setup shown in the photo... I had about 3/4" preload and I was JUST able to lean on the wrench and get a bite on the threads and ran the nut home. Although when I climb aboard I still think my bike doesn't know. I just wish, with the change to the Progressive, that she didn't stand so much taller and LEAN so HARD on the side stand... makes it a bit tough to stand up even from a level floor for me... and I REALLY don't like her leaning so hard on the side stand so I use a cheater piece of hard rubber (old heel off a boot) under the side stand.

[Squeeze]

Condor, thanks for your affirmation. I put the progressives in, the shoulder washer, a 1/2" piece of PVC then I had the interrnal aluminum cup (with O-ring) to add and the final nut... I stood up on the bike and leaned in with all of my 120 pounds and I could hear the spring snickering at me ("It ain't gonna happen..."). With the setup shown in the photo... I had about 3/4" preload and I was JUST able to lean on the wrench and get a bite on the threads and ran the nut home. Although when I climb aboard I still think my bike doesn't know. I just wish, with the change to the Progressive, that she didn't stand so much taller and LEAN so HARD on the side stand... makes it a bit tough to stand up even from a level floor for me... and I REALLY don't like her leaning so hard on the side stand so I use a cheater piece of hard rubber (old heel off a boot) under the side stand.

 

Mike, why don't you use a angle Grinder and cut some of the strongest Parts of the Springs off and replace it with about the same Size of the stock Spring ? You only need to keep the Angles straight and extra Washers between the both Spring Parts. At least this is done in Racing when needed of two way different Spring Rates.

 

This would give you little more static Sag and help keepiong the Bike somehow more upright.

[Condor]

Condor, thanks for your affirmation. I put the progressives in, the shoulder washer, a 1/2" piece of PVC then I had the interrnal aluminum cup (with O-ring) to add and the final nut... I stood up on the bike and leaned in with all of my 120 pounds and I could hear the spring snickering at me ("It ain't gonna happen..."). With the setup shown in the photo... I had about 3/4" preload and I was JUST able to lean on the wrench and get a bite on the threads and ran the nut home. Although when I climb aboard I still think my bike doesn't know. I just wish, with the change to the Progressive, that she didn't stand so much taller and LEAN so HARD on the side stand... makes it a bit tough to stand up even from a level floor for me... and I REALLY don't like her leaning so hard on the side stand so I use a cheater piece of hard rubber (old heel off a boot) under the side stand.

 

LOL.... Yep, I'm a LOT...Ahem!!... heavier than you Mike, and I took every bit of my weight to get the threads to bite. I'd like to see one of the Progressive designers stop by and show us all how they do it.... There's not much any of us can do to get rid of the sidestand lean. My '83 leans waaay over, but has never gone down... I've even put a new sidestand on it. Didn't help much. MOF the lean is so great that I actually get on and off from the right side for fear of pulling the bike over. From the right I can yank all I want and it doesn't budge. 'Course long legs help too... I remember Steve (hdhtr) putting the sidestand down and starting to get off and panicing because he thought he'd forgot to get it down and was going over.. It does lean a bunch....

[Gearhead]

Interesting, you guys interpreted the instructions as requiring the spacer with the o-ring AND the PVC spacer. When I read it, I thought Progressive was saying to discard ALL the stuff under the cap, including the o-ring piece. Hmmm...

 

The PVC spacer in my kit was 1.25" long. My stock o-ring piece was closer to 1" long. Since I thought I was supposed to leave that puppy out (per Progressive) but wondered if its function was important, I opted instead to use the stock piece (with a washer) and leave out the PVC spacer to end up with maybe 1/4" less preload than Progressive recommended.

 

I use just a smidge of air, I'm average weight (190) and the ride is pretty nice. I do get occasional bottoming still on my dirt road, but only when I ride through a big pothole too fast. And let's face it, it's not a dirt bike!

 

Jeremy

[CrazyHorse]

On my 89, I left the Plastic Spacer " Out " I did put in a Larger Thick Washer, on top of the Spring before installing the Caps.

 

I used 15 Wgt. Oil. I ride Single. I use NO Air pressure, and the front end seems perfect to me.

 

 

Ditto

[Dexx]

Yeah, my bad. Forgot about that one. It's an old age thing... Just the same, the 'O' ring is there for a reason, and that piece is part of the preload.

 

Probably more as an air pressure seal. If you're running without the seal and a long PVC you probably accomplished the same thing as cutting the pipe in half. And if the forks hold air for you, then you're good to go.

 

I was thinking the same thing about the o-ringed piece....it must be there for a reason....but as far as being an air seal, don't think it could be...there is a hole in the top of it. I thought in the worst case it might be an extra guard against oil leak at the top....but again the hole is there, and after 20 miles or so, there doesn't seem to be any oil getting out I'm starting to think it may be something to do with the damping system and not as neccesary with the progressive springs. I didn't add any air after reassembly, but checked the class after my test run and it was reading 5 psi, probably road heat. Anybody ever try to contact Progressive about this?

[Condor]

I was thinking the same thing about the o-ringed piece....it must be there for a reason....but as far as being an air seal, don't think it could be...there is a hole in the top of it. I thought in the worst case it might be an extra guard against oil leak at the top....but again the hole is there, and after 20 miles or so, there doesn't seem to be any oil getting out I'm starting to think it may be something to do with the damping system and not as neccesary with the progressive springs. I didn't add any air after reassembly, but checked the class after my test run and it was reading 5 psi, probably road heat. Anybody ever try to contact Progressive about this?

 

You may be right. I never paid that much attention to the thing. It may be more of a dampener to absorb energy when bottoming out??? Sorta a first line defense against fork oil hitting the top of the fork column??

[Gearhead]

You may be right. I never paid that much attention to the thing. It may be more of a dampener to absorb energy when bottoming out??? Sorta a first line defense against fork oil hitting the top of the fork column??

 

Except the o-ringed piece is metal, so it wouldn't be much of a cushion. My guess, FWIW: If I recall correctly, the air hose connects up above the o-ring. The hole in the middle of the metal piece is there so the air from the CLASS can get into the fork tube, but it has to go around some corners and, IIRC, thru a sintered filter piece. I'm thinking this prevents the fork oil from freely entering the CLASS system air hoses. Thus, omitting it and using the PVC spacer instead would probably be OK, but some oil might get into the CLASS system.

 

Jeremy

[Condor]

 

 

Except the o-ringed piece is metal, so it wouldn't be much of a cushion. My guess, FWIW: If I recall correctly, the air hose connects up above the o-ring. The hole in the middle of the metal piece is there so the air from the CLASS can get into the fork tube, but it has to go around some corners and, IIRC, thru a sintered filter piece. I'm thinking this prevents the fork oil from freely entering the CLASS system air hoses. Thus, omitting it and using the PVC spacer instead would probably be OK, but some oil might get into the CLASS system.

 

Jeremy

 

OK.....sounds reasonable to me....