.45Cole Posted May 19, 2018 #1 Posted May 19, 2018 Got a '89 with ~55k miles for $1k in really good condition. Wouldn't hold idle without choke, bogs a little when you get going. Guy said he ran some cleaner through and it got a little better. I bought it and it sat for a month or so and has been a little worse, but now really stinks like gas (exhaust too) when idling with choke. Bogs pretty bad on acceleration. Would just try cleaner but I pulled the air box off and it really stinks up top of gas. Two carbs (left side as sitting on bike) even had a little gas visible. The motor and carbs on tje left side are really dirty and oiled up, but I'm thinking they're from gas leaking. Make sense or is a known problem? They look easy enough to pull out and I'll clean them once out. No problems with ultrasonic cleaners? Is the oily dirt due to valve cover gaskets or some sort of leak in the carb? Are the jet looking screws visible from up top leading to bowl (as in can I drain bowls and blast cleaner through in hopes of getting to pilot?)
Marcarl Posted May 19, 2018 #2 Posted May 19, 2018 I would suggest that the black you see is from overfilling the crankcase with oil. Only fill the crankcase to half ways up the site glass or it will suck the oil into the breather and create lots of problems. As far as the carbs are concerned? The hardest part of taking them to the cleaners is getting the cables off and on, the rest is time consuming but not real hard. I would take them off and clean them. I would suggest strongly to get new gaskets and rubber plugs. Somethings to be aware of as you do this. Loosen the cables as much as possible at the top end. Loosen all 4 clamps on the intake boots and then use a large screwdriver to pry them off. Watch close the routing off the return cable so that you know where it goes during re-assmble, it will fool you. Pay close attention to the order of parts on the fuel enrichment shaft. When you rejoin the carbs be sure you do this on a perfectly flat surface. Need more help, just ask.
luvmy40 Posted May 19, 2018 #3 Posted May 19, 2018 The bowl drains are easily accessible from the side under and behind the diaphragm hat. Mine has never had the vent lines or drain lines installed but I think the drain lines should be sticking out of the two small holes in the side rail between the carbs on both sides. If there are hoses there, they should be your drain lines. the Pucster likes to use the drain lines and a syringe to fill the bowls with Sea Foam or Berrymans B12 and let them soak. Be careful if you go with Berrymans, it's much more aggressive than the Sea Foam. Personally, I'd pull them and do a thorough cleaning and inspection. Make sure to take some pics so putting everything back together is easier. There is a very good set of rebuild videos available. I can't seem to find the link to the guy selling them but someone else will show up that knows shortly I'm sure.
7 lakes Posted May 20, 2018 #4 Posted May 20, 2018 I would suggest a complete tear down, thorough cleaning and replacement of all rubber parts. Pretty much the only thing that goes wrong with a carb is dirt or old rubber, so do those and you're like new again. Most tail chasing with carbs could be avoided by starting this way. Tim
luvmy40 Posted May 20, 2018 #5 Posted May 20, 2018 Found it. Damon Ferraiuolo has a DVD that goes over rebuilding these carbs in great detail. He also has a dvd on rebuilding the V Max engine which would be of great value to anyone diving deep into the XVZ engines as well since they are for all intents and purposes the same engine. here's a link to some short clips from the carb video. You have to email Damon at Damon_Ferraiuolo@msn.com to get the dvds. I got both for $20.00 delivered about a year ago.
.45Cole Posted May 20, 2018 Author #6 Posted May 20, 2018 Thanks guys, I appreciate it. I looked over the setup last night and it looks like there's only two cables visible and a few simple lines. Should be easy. I figured I'd take a whole bunch of pics so reassembly is easy. Does anybody know if the carbs for a v max and venture 1300 cross over, might be cheaper to buy the v max label than the venture label? Thanks on the carb rebuild, might have to do that if I get sideways during the rebuild.
luvmy40 Posted May 20, 2018 #7 Posted May 20, 2018 The dealerships charge the same regardless of whether you ask for V Max or Venture parts. Not sure about Partzilla and the like.
Ipleedthe5th Posted May 21, 2018 #8 Posted May 21, 2018 I would suggest that the black you see is from overfilling the crankcase with oil. Only fill the crankcase to half ways up the site glass or it will suck the oil into the breather and create lots of problems. Dont mean to highjack here, but I'm also haveing issues with my 83' and now that I read this realize it started happening after an oil change. When you say 1/2 way up the glass, is that with the bike running or off? Thanks for the tips.
RDawson Posted May 21, 2018 #9 Posted May 21, 2018 Dont mean to highjack here, but I'm also haveing issues with my 83' and now that I read this realize it started happening after an oil change. When you say 1/2 way up the glass, is that with the bike running or off? Thanks for the tips. Half way, engine off, and standing straight up.
Ipleedthe5th Posted May 21, 2018 #10 Posted May 21, 2018 Half way, engine off, and standing straight up. Yikes, then I have it way overfilled. Hope I didnt do any damage to it. I'm ganna go bleed some out right now and see what happens. Thanks for the tip!
RDawson Posted May 21, 2018 #11 Posted May 21, 2018 Yikes, then I have it way overfilled. Hope I didnt do any damage to it. I'm ganna go bleed some out right now and see what happens. Thanks for the tip! Check your air filter to see if it's saturated with oil. Other than that and the oily mess it makes you're probably ok.
bongobobny Posted May 22, 2018 #12 Posted May 22, 2018 Yup, all you end up doing is having the excess oil blow out through the ventilation system and all that oil ends up in your airbox mostly. To read the oil level, as mentioned, the bike needs to be as straight up as possible like on the center stand. The bike needs to be cold and hopefully not been running for several hours as it takes forever for all the oil to drain into the crankcase. The VMax and Venture carbs are very similar with the only real difference being in how they are metered! What is really important is proper synchronization of all 4 of them AND proper air/fuel mixture on them!! Buy the Damon Ferraiuolo videos as that guy knows exactly what he is doing and will give you some great insight on how to properly tear them down and properly reassemble them! The guy is a PRO!!!
cimmer Posted May 23, 2018 #13 Posted May 23, 2018 Thanks guys, I appreciate it. I looked over the setup last night and it looks like there's only two cables visible and a few simple lines. Should be easy. I figured I'd take a whole bunch of pics so reassembly is easy. Does anybody know if the carbs for a v max and venture 1300 cross over, might be cheaper to buy the v max label than the venture label? Thanks on the carb rebuild, might have to do that if I get sideways during the rebuild. Just to let you know there is no one stop carb kit for these bikes. There are some companies that have partial kits, but you will have to source some parts from Yamaha no matter what you do. I would suggest strongly getting Damons DVD on the Vmax carb rebuild as it is full of so much information on disassemble and reassemble of the carbs it will save you a lot of pain down the road. He does show rebuilding the Vmax carbs but there is only a couple of small difference between the Venture and Vmax carbs. One thing to check is the diaphragms for holes or tears in the rubber. There are a couple of sources for those besides Yamaha and it can save you some money. Let us know if you need some more information Good luck Rick F.
.45Cole Posted May 23, 2018 Author #14 Posted May 23, 2018 Found a frayed throttle cable, easy to replace? Looks like they're not budget busters. I'll do a write up with what I found/used for the carb rebuild. Need JIS screwdrivers, need k&L rebuild kit (has both jet block and choke block gaaskets), JBM makes new diaphragms which don't require the two plastic washers (they're new and $20/ea so you might as well buy them now and hoard them). My slide diaphragms were pinholed from folds on 2x carbs (haven't got to the other two yet) and the pilot was like most I've done, easy to just use extractor to bring it out rather than maul the slot. Did round a few screwheads before i found out they were JIs, irwin extractor kit + drill worked well as always (great investment at ~$30). Air passageways were oiled up and also full of yellow gas. I had tried running "Mechanic In A Bottle" through the system and it is apparent that the solvent was dissolving the junk by the plethera of yellow gas residue, just couldn't get to the air passages. Will prob do a puke bottle in the airbox for the crankcase ventilation.
luvmy40 Posted May 23, 2018 #15 Posted May 23, 2018 I'd highly recommend replacing as many of the JIS screws with SS socket head screws as you can. I got mine through Fastenall and have some spares. I think I have enough of the larger mounting bracket screws to do another bank if you want to pay for shipping they are yours.
cimmer Posted May 24, 2018 #16 Posted May 24, 2018 I found that this kit offered the most in o-rings and gaskets for the carbs. http://www.carburettorshop.com/contents/en-us/d380_Mikuni_BDS_carburetor_parts_and_rebuild_kits.html Pay for the quicker shipping as the standard shipping can take a month to get here as this comes from overseas. But the K&L is also a nice kit but doesnt have as many of the parts. I ordered the main nozzle, and needle valve assemble from Yamaha. There is also a company in Canada what offers parts for the Venture, SCI https://www.siriusconinc.com/index.php They offer the rubber plugs for the jet block, diaphragms, and other assorted parts. I would NOT use the Keyster carb kits as I dont think they are worth the money in my opinion. Hope this helps.. Rick F.
luvmy40 Posted May 24, 2018 #17 Posted May 24, 2018 cimmer, That carburettorshop . com parts kit is quite a bargain? I paid close to 3 times that per carb for OEM parts and didn't even get new bowl valve pistons.
luvmy40 Posted May 24, 2018 #18 Posted May 24, 2018 ...I ordered the main nozzle, and needle valve assemble from Yamaha. ... Hope this helps.. Rick F. emphasis added I checked with Yamaha for new emulsion tubes and was told they are discontinued.
cimmer Posted May 24, 2018 #19 Posted May 24, 2018 emphasis added I checked with Yamaha for new emulsion tubes and was told they are discontinued. It does appear that they are discontinued for the 83 but still available for the 86-93 Ventures. It also helps us that the Vmax uses the same parts in their carbs also so we have a little longer availability run for the later Ventures. We can no longer get the needle set for the 86-93 Ventures as the Vmax uses a different needle set for their carbs. Rick F.
GaryZ Posted May 24, 2018 #20 Posted May 24, 2018 I was told, or maybe I heard it here, that bikes built before 1990 did not have gaskets and seals that stand up to E10 gas. My experience with my 1985 VR seems to support this assumption. E10 gas has been the problem with all of my carb'd bikes, especially the '85. I now use 100% gas as much as possible, and I put Sea Foam in the tanks for the winter. When you buy a carb kit it should be E10 rated, however, you might look for a date code later than 1990.
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