YamahaParExcellence Posted May 13, 2018 #1 Posted May 13, 2018 Just wondering, as I am in the initial break in phase, I have noticed on a few occasions, that it seems some of the gears were hung up, and could not easily be downshifted. I had to use the double clutch technique to get the tranny to drop to the next lower gear. I just was wondering if anybody else, while breaking in the tranny and motor, experienced tight to hard or 'stuck' downshifts, and you had to slowly let out the clutch to have the tranny drop to the next lower gear?
Yoopermoose Posted May 14, 2018 #2 Posted May 14, 2018 Just wondering, as I am in the initial break in phase, I have noticed on a few occasions, that it seems some of the gears were hung up, and could not easily be downshifted. I had to use the double clutch technique to get the tranny to drop to the next lower gear. I just was wondering if anybody else, while breaking in the tranny and motor, experienced tight to hard or 'stuck' downshifts, and you had to slowly let out the clutch to have the tranny drop to the next lower gear? Never Joe, mine shifts extremely smooth up and down. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
ChiefGunner Posted May 14, 2018 #3 Posted May 14, 2018 Just wondering, as I am in the initial break in phase, I have noticed on a few occasions, that it seems some of the gears were hung up, and could not easily be downshifted. I had to use the double clutch technique to get the tranny to drop to the next lower gear. I just was wondering if anybody else, while breaking in the tranny and motor, experienced tight to hard or 'stuck' downshifts, and you had to slowly let out the clutch to have the tranny drop to the next lower gear? No such problem here either Joe.
Marcarl Posted May 14, 2018 #5 Posted May 14, 2018 For starters I would bleed the clutch, just so that I would be sure there was no air in there. I would let it sit overnight and then with the handlebars turned to the right so that the MC is fully at the top, remove the MC lid and then while slightly squeezing the clutch handle, tap the line connector at the end of the MC. Easy and quick to do and might be the problem. Watch the fluid in the reservoir to see if even a tiny bubble comes up, that's all it would take. Make sure you put a large cloth under the working area.
Mimurph Posted May 14, 2018 #6 Posted May 14, 2018 Are you downshifting multiple gears after you are stopped? I have had where I had to let the clutch out a little before it would engage, then I could continue to shift into first. I like th downshift while in motion if at all possible.
American Posted May 14, 2018 #7 Posted May 14, 2018 I would not call mine hard shifts but I would say they are firm. As the miles add up I expect things will wear in nicely. My 2013 Victory Cross Country Tour took 30,000 miles for the transmission to fully break in, My Harley Davidson Ultra Limited Low took about 20,000 miles to fully break in and I expect this Yamaha Star Venture Transcontinental to take around 25,000 to 30,000 miles to fully break in the transmission. A good synthetic oil helps as well, I will be using the Yamalube full synthetic with ester 15w-50 starting with my 4,000 mile oil change.
YamahaParExcellence Posted May 14, 2018 Author #8 Posted May 14, 2018 (edited) Are you downshifting multiple gears after you are stopped? I have had where I had to let the clutch out a little before it would engage, then I could continue to shift into first. I like to downshift while in motion if at all possible. I think that is what is happening. I'm not use to such long and tall gears, and the engine only spinning pretty much 1,000 rpm above idle. Coming always off of a long shift 5 speed of the Kawa ZR7S, I think I need to 're-learn' my faster upshifts, but also, ....and this is where the problem is...faster downshifts, while that honking 1854 CC motor is spinning 'higher'...and I use that phrase (LOL) very generously, (LOL)! So..I have had to slightly blip the throttle and apply some engine torque to conjole the gear to downshift. It is only downshifting, never up shifts. Thanks for all your suggestions and feed back, gents. All of it , as always, is most welcome. I must say, this bike is so growing on me...that I don't think I would ever want to have again, a touring bike engine that has a red line of 7,000 to 10,500 (to make torque) that my Kawa has...yep, it's a 10,500 rpm red line screamer. A guy (or gal, lol) can get use to seeing going down the road at 1,400/1,500 rpm's...and the engine merely purring along. This is FUN! At 65 MPH, I am at 2,000 RPM..and that's wonderfully CRAZY! So...I need to always be mindful to get my head out of the touring clouds, and start tapping the gear shift much before the already low RPM's of the SVTC start to decay after a throttle close. I think THAT is my problem..I want to shift down two or three gears in succession, and I don't have a fast enough spinning gear cage to make that happen. It's going to take some re-learning, and that is quite alright with this guy...that's what it is all about, after all. Never had a slow revving big V-Twin. Now, ...I do! BTW, when you use the Sure Park, lever, part of the process also locks out the tranny from any user gear changes. It is a hard lock mechanism. If the Sure Park handle is not fully in the upright disengaged position, and or, the Sure Park handle linkage needs adjusting, this can also cause hard shifting of the transmission. This is right from the Owner's Manual in the using the Sure Park feature. If you have any type of 'questionable' tranny or shifting issues, they suggest you take your ride to a dealer and have them check out the Sure Park rod and linkage for a correct length and setting, so to be sure the Sure Park feature is FULLY disengaged. Just a FYI. Since taking delivery, I am having a blast! Joe Edited May 14, 2018 by YamahaParExcellence
YamahaParExcellence Posted May 14, 2018 Author #9 Posted May 14, 2018 I got the shifting this afternoon figured out. I need to shift sooner on the down-stroke...while the engine is still around 1,700 RPM. Smooth as silk now... I needed to re-learn for a V-Twin.
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