No Brake Light on Front but Foot Brake working...(89VR)

[cptriker1]

Here's my problem: My front brake light (FBL) hasn't been working since I got the bike. The foot brake works fine. I found that the FBL switch was damaged, so I replaced it and had no change. I tested the brown wire (12V+) and it's fine. I removed the headlight as I read that someone had a similar issue and found a broken wire.

 

When pressing the rear brake, I hear a relay in the fairing but nothing when I press the FBL. I did hook both the wires at the FBL together and the light didn't come on.

 

Suggestions? I don't know where the brake relay is, and I sure don't know where the CPU is either.

[Prairiehammer]

Here's my problem: My front brake light (FBL) hasn't been working since I got the bike. The foot brake works fine. I found that the FBL switch was damaged, so I replaced it and had no change. I tested the brown wire (12V+) and it's fine. I removed the headlight as I read that someone had a similar issue and found a broken wire.

 

When pressing the rear brake, I hear a relay in the fairing but nothing when I press the FBL. I did hook both the wires at the FBL together and the light didn't come on.

 

Suggestions? I don't know where the brake relay is, and I sure don't know where the CPU is either.

 

 

Your Venture's front brake switch should have four wires, green/yellow, yellow, brown, black/white. If your current switch only has two wires, then it is not the correct switch. The connector for the four wire brake switch and the connector for the two wire switch is obviously different and won't plug together, creating the needed correct circuitry.

 

There is no brake relay. I suspect the click you are hearing is coming from the flasher relay. Try cycling the hazard switch a few times, perhaps it is bad or dirty.

 

Check out this thread:

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?22524-no-brake-light-on-front-brake

[bongobobny]

OK, you don't list what year you own, but all years are pretty much the same. As Kevin mentioned there are 4 wires on the brake light switch normally, two for the brake light and two for the cruise control. If you have an MK1 without cruise control you may very well only have 2 wires on your switch, I seem to remember something about that.

 

Anyway, the two wires you need to look at are the Brown and the Yellow wires. The brown wire has 12 volts from the signal fuse. this same wire goes to the rear brake switch as well, so I will assume that the 12 volts you measured is on the Brown wire. Now the Yellow line is the wire that goes to the actual brake light. Obviously the rear works so everything going to the light must be OK. The yellow wires from both front and rear are tied together. What you want to do is press the brake lever and look for the 12 volts to be transferred to the yellow wire. If it does not then your switch is bad.

 

One usual issue with the front brake switch is the little plastic tab that holds the switch in place gets worn and the switch is no longer held in its proper position. When this happens the switch never actuates even though there is nothing electrically wrong with it. Check and make sure the switch is fully pushed in before going any further. The switch works backward from what you may think, with no brake applied, the switch is actually pushed in, and when you apply the brake the switch is released. This is why when the switch is not in its proper location the brake light never comes on. Your cruise control will also never work in this condition as it thinks you are applying the brake!

 

Here's a link to wiring diagrams...

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?42358-1st-Gen-Wiring-Schematics-1983-1993

[cptriker1]

Thanks for the reply. Well, I worked on it until 0120 last night. I decided to directly wire from the switch to the rear harness. It works now. I was forced to use the new 2-wire switch as I inspected the old switch and found that the spring is gone (no, I didn't lose it when I pulled it apart!)

 

Apparently the previous owner tried to work on the switch and he ripped on of the tabs off the old switch. My cruise isn't working anyways, so reducing to two wires so I can get it back working is WORTH IT...imho...

 

But, I'm pleased to report (that as of right now) both switches are working. I also have the Hyper-Lights working as well (LED flashers that are mounted on the top of the helmet box) that really adds another layer of safety. Getting those working with the system was a PAIN given that I had to diagnose it as well and finally finding there was a grounding issue.

 

This bike has additional 'aftermarket' lighting fixtures configured to run as tail lights on a on/off switch. I plan to change some of them into becoming additional brake lights so I can really get a massive rear-end stop signal to the morons behind me. I'm concerned because there's a section of I-10 in the Biloxi area that's not a safe place.

 

I'm also looking into converting the main tail light bulbs to LED along with the headlamp. Does the computer throw a fit when switching to LED's?

[bongobobny]

Yes, the CMU is looking for a specific current to work the reed switches, but you can always jumper the switches...

 

PS the clicking (I missed the "89 VR" on the title) is the relay for the anti-dive solenoids which is activated when the brakes are applied...