Need Help with E4 Error in the Computer Leveling Air Suspension System

[Pablo]

Folks,

 

I'm getting the E4 error. I opened the controller and looked at the soldering. It seems OK, nothing seems broken. Is a bad solder connection too subtle to see, or is it very obvious?

Sensor input and output voltages are within spec, but it doesn't behave exactly as the service manual states:

 

According to the manual, page 7-91, I'm supposed to turn the main switch to ON, wait for 10 seconds, and test output voltage. However, I only get output voltage (0.92V) when the main switch is in the ACC position. Does this mean I have a bad CLASS Controller? What else could be wrong?

[RDawson]

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?493-CLASS-E4-Error-Repair

 

This is under 1st gen tech read only library.

[MiCarl]

I think the manual must be in error. The CLASS only is powered with the key on the ACC position.

 

Also, the bad solder joints are very difficult to see with the naked eye. The article says to inspect with a magnifying glass. I would just assume some are cracked and re-flow all of them.

[ChiefGunner]

I think the manual must be in error. The CLASS only is powered with the key on the ACC position.

 

Also, the bad solder joints are very difficult to see with the naked eye. The article says to inspect with a magnifying glass. I would just assume some are cracked and re-flow all of them.

 

I had that happen on my 91 Royale. In my case it WAS a cracked solder connection and YES I was only able to find it using a magnifying glass.

[Marcarl]

You'll probably not be able to see the cracked solder, seeing as most times the separation is between the peg and the solder, not as one might expect across the solder or separated from the board.

[bongobobny]

Another indicator of a bad solder connection is new solder should look shiny. As solder deteriorates with age it will dull just like a cold solder joint looks. With motorcycles, there is always vibration and with the case of the edge connector that has some weight attached to it the pins for the connector will break loose internally inside the ball or glob of solder. If you are comfortable with soldering then reheat and reflow all of the edge connectors joints. If you aren't adept at soldering then find a friend who is and have them redo the joints...

[Pablo]

I'll have an electronics shop resolder just in case.

Also, for a brief moment, I was able to switch from AUTO to MANUAL and increase the pressure both rear and front. However, I tried doing this several times after without success, meaning the error code would flash and it would not switch to MANUAL

[Flyinfool]

E4 is almost always cracked solder that can not be seen with the naked eye. It is faster to just reflow all of the joints than it is to try to find the cracked one. And even if you do find the cracked one and fix just it, another one may crack putting it back together, and then you get to start all over. A little touch of Rosin flux on each joint will help to float away any impurities in the solder and make it all easier and better.

[Condor]

I've done several of these boards and I find that those that need resoldering have a light brown ring around the connection. The solder looks good but generally it isn't. However that said I usually end up resoldering everything anyway... One in particular on my '91VR I had to beat into submission. It took three tries before it came back to life... But what a great feeling.... :-) Arrrggghh!!

[Pablo]

UPDATE: took the board to an electronics shop and they redid all the solder for $35. E4 error is not there anymore, but E1 is. (it flashed between E1 and E4 before the repair)

 

I have a little bit of hope because at some point before the repair i pressed the MANUAL/AUTO button and was able to manually adjust the suspension. I guess that means that for a brief moment, there was no error.

 

I will recheck all connectors, but after that, I'm at a loss. Unless someone has a suggestion.

Is there anyone that can work on these controllers AND check if they work? Anyone that sells working controllers?

[Condor]

UPDATE: took the board to an electronics shop and they redid all the solder for $35. E4 error is not there anymore, but E1 is. (it flashed between E1 and E4 before the repair)

 

I have a little bit of hope because at some point before the repair i pressed the MANUAL/AUTO button and was able to manually adjust the suspension. I guess that means that for a brief moment, there was no error.

 

I will recheck all connectors, but after that, I'm at a loss. Unless someone has a suggestion.

Is there anyone that can work on these controllers AND check if they work? Anyone that sells working controllers?

 

An E1 tells you there's a problem in the system... Just for the 'H' of it pull the gang plug out again and take an erasure to the contacts. There are some electronic cleaners available on the market, but try the erasure first. Also try to clean the power plug. There's also one back by the compressor. See if that doesn't clear up the E1. If it doesn't check on ebay and see if you can find another one. 99 times out of a hundred it's a bad solder joint.. They're easy to R&R.. But you already know that.. :-)

[Pablo]

I'm having no luck with the controller. I'll try cleaning a couple of other contacts, and then I'm off to EBAY.

The question is, does the controller of a 1983 XVZ1200 work on my '89 ?

here's the listing I'm looking at https://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-Yamaha-XVZ-1200-Venture-Air-Supension-Moniter/202158402230?hash=item2f11946ab6:g:zmYAAOSwdjdaP6X9

[Condor]

I'm having no luck with the controller. I'll try cleaning a couple of other contacts, and then I'm off to EBAY.

The question is, does the controller of a 1983 XVZ1200 work on my '89 ?

here's the listing I'm looking at https://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-Yamaha-XVZ-1200-Venture-Air-Supension-Moniter/202158402230?hash=item2f11946ab6:g:zmYAAOSwdjdaP6X9

 

I'm pretty sure the CLASS controllers are all the same from 83-93. If it's still listed in the parts manual and has a 26H in front of the number they will interchange. I thought I had a parts catalog.pfd but can't locate it. Now... The controller on eBay is over priced, and from the looks of it.. junk. Actually you can locate one that might be a....little... worse for wear, the PC boards can be swapped out if your's is in better shape...

[bongobobny]

OK, I see you already found the overpriced controller from Pinwall on eBay. I read Watering Hole before I get to the Tech Forums. Now, exactly what makes you think the issue is with the controller and not the actual pump assembly located under the trunk below the black cover?? An E1 error can mean either one of the reed valves or the motor is defective. Also, there is a moisture remover that is shaped like a canister that has a silicon desiccant inside that should be blue colored but is probably pink. Fix that by removing the desiccant and bake it. There is also a one-way valve for the air that gets plugged up and a foam filter that can get clogged.

 

To answer your question, the CLASS is the same for all 1st gen 83 through 93.

 

There is a downloadable service manual available on this site...

 

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?3384-First-Gen-Service-Manuals

 

Also, contact member Marcarl, he has serviced the pump assembly a few times and knows it pretty well! The controller is just that, an electronic device that controls the actual pump assembly! if it lights up it pretty much works! Other than the infamous E4 all other codes usually mean something is wrong with the pump assembly itself!

[Pablo]

Originally, the display flashed E1, E4, and all LCD, in a cycle. However, the sensor output and input voltage was correct. After the solder job, the only error is E1, but the voltages are all wrong, which suggests something went wrong in the solder job.

 

I spent $35 for it to be resoldered, and it looks way better than I could ever fix it myself.

[Marcarl]

Originally, the display flashed E1, E4, and all LCD, in a cycle. However, the sensor output and input voltage was correct. After the solder job, the only error is E1, but the voltages are all wrong, which suggests something went wrong in the solder job.

 

I spent $35 for it to be resoldered, and it looks way better than I could ever fix it myself.

 

See if you can find somebody close that has a working controller, swap them out to see if that's the issue. E1 could be almost anything, and if you say the voltages are out then that might be an problem. You could come to MD maybe?